Seeking Window Replacement Experiences & Advice - Tampa Bay Area Homeowner

Hi @crypto728, welcome! I went through a similar project recently, so I can share my experience. I’m in Pasco County (just north of you) and my house was built in 2004. I decided to go with non-impact vinyl double-pane windows since I already have hurricane shutters for all my windows. Ended up replacing 10 windows in a single-story home.
Cost: The total was about $6,200 for all 10 windows (roughly $620 per window on average). If I had chosen impact-rated glass, the quote was about 30% higher, so non-impact saved a good chunk of money for us.

Reasoning: We chose non-impact mainly to save on cost. Our home is a bit inland and we figured we could rely on the metal shutters we keep in the garage when a storm comes.

Permitting: Code-wise, here (and likely in Pinellas too) you either need to install impact windows or have proper hurricane shutters to cover non-impact windows. For the permit, the contractor noted on the application that we have existing shutters for all openings. The county inspector actually asked to see our shutters during final inspection to verify we can protect those new windows. We showed him, and it passed without issue.

Results: The new vinyl windows (with Low-E glass) are such an upgrade from the old aluminum single-pane ones. The old ones would get condensation and were drafty; now there’s no draft at all and the house stays cooler. We didn’t get any additional insurance discount for these windows because they’re non-impact (we already were getting a discount for having shutters anyway). If budget wasn’t tight, I might have gone impact just for the convenience of not putting shutters up every time, but I’m still happy we saved money. At least the house is far more comfortable and energy-efficient now.

So, non-impact + shutters is a viable path if you want to save money, as long as you don’t mind deploying shutters when needed. Just make sure to let the permitting folks know you have them. Good luck with your quotes!

Congrats on starting the window replacement journey, @crypto728. We just completed a full replacement on our 2-story home in Tampa (Hillsborough County), so I have a recent data point for you. We had 18 windows replaced (including a large half-circle arched window in the foyer). We got a bunch of quotes and wow, the prices varied A LOT. For example:
Renewal by Andersen (the people with the TV ads) quoted us about $48,000 for 18 windows 😱 – and those were non-impact Fibrex (composite) frames. We nearly fell over when we saw that number. It was way beyond our budget (works out to something like $2,600 per window!).

A local company, ProTech Windoors, gave a quote of $26,500 for the same 18 windows, but these were for high-quality vinyl impact windows (PGT brand). Huge difference from the Andersen quote.

Another independent contractor (a one-man operation) quoted around $22,000 if we did a mix: impact on the front of the house and non-impact on the back. The idea was to save money but still have impact glass on the front-facing windows (which our insurance agent said wouldn’t give full credit unless all windows are impact, so we weren't keen on mixing).

In the end, we chose to go with ProTech Windoors for all 18 windows with impact glass, at about $26.5k total. It wasn’t the absolute cheapest option, but we felt more comfortable with them. They had great references and a solid reputation here in Tampa Bay. The installation took 2 days (they sent a big crew), and the quality of work was top-notch. They handled everything start to finish – pulled the permit, scheduled the inspections, and cleaned up thoroughly after each day. It’s been about 4 months since the install, and we have zero complaints. The house is noticeably quieter inside, and we’re heading into hurricane season feeling much safer.

One big takeaway for me was how much quotes can differ for the same project. It really pays to shop around and not assume the highest price means best quality. In our case, the mid-range quote gave us excellent quality windows (PGT is a well-regarded brand) for way less than that crazy Andersen bid. So definitely get multiple quotes and consider local companies; we found they often offer better value than the big national brands.

@charlie_woof Wow, that Renewal by Andersen quote is wild! $48k for 18 non-impacts – I’d have a heart attack seeing that. I thought my quotes were high, but yours puts it in perspective.
I’m in Clearwater and have been shopping around for my window project (I’ve got 10 windows to replace). One of the quotes I got was from NewSouth Window Solutions (they're a Florida-based manufacturer/installer). They quoted me about $15,000 for 10 windows (non-impact, double-pane vinyl). That comes out to about $1,500 per window, and that’s without impact glass. I felt that was steep for non-impact windows.

NewSouth’s sales pitch was pretty intense – they make their own windows locally, which is cool, and the product seemed decent, but the pricing and the hard sell were a turn-off for me. The rep was at my house for a couple of hours and was very pushy about signing a contract, dropping the price a bit if I “signed today” and all that. It gave me used-car-sales vibes.

I haven’t decided yet, I'm definitely getting a few more bids from other companies (going to reach out to some of the smaller local outfits like the ones you all mentioned, maybe Karoly Windows or ProTech Windoors as well). Hearing your story makes me think the local companies might come in with a better price and less BS. NewSouth’s quote of $15k for 10 non-impacts does feel high compared to, say, @katievolunteer’s $6.2k for 10 windows (though those were done by a contractor with shutters scenario – still, big difference).

It’s really eye-opening how much these quotes can vary. I’ll update once I get more info, but for now I’m holding off because $1.5k per window for vinyl non-impact just seems overpriced. Thanks for sharing your numbers – super helpful to know I’m not the only one seeing a wide range.

I went through a full replacement on my home in St. Petersburg (built 2001) a couple of years ago, and I have a few lessons learned and minor regrets to share:
Get multiple quotes: I made the mistake of only getting two quotes. I later realized I probably overpaid a bit. I did my project in mid-2021 when everything was crazy (high demand, supply chain delays), and I paid about $12k for 9 non-impact windows. In a normal market, I suspect it would have been a couple thousand less. So definitely shop around. Don’t settle for the first quote, especially if things are more competitive now in 2025.

Include everything in the contract: Make sure the quote/contract spells out all the details (permit fees, materials, labor, disposal of old windows, any stucco or trim repairs, etc.). I assumed some things were included, and got a surprise $400 change order because one of my window openings had a bit of wood rot that needed fixing. In hindsight, I should have asked how they handle unforeseen issues like rot or stucco damage before signing. Get it in writing if possible that they will address common issues or at least clarify the process.

Impact vs. Non-impact: I chose non-impact windows plus keeping my shutters to save money (at the time, impact glass was a lot pricier and hard to get). It works – my windows are fine and I have shutters if needed – but last year when a hurricane warning came, putting up those shutters reminded me what a hassle it is. 😅 In hindsight, I kind of wish I had splurged on impact glass for the convenience and peace of mind. It would have been nice not having to climb ladders in the heat to bolt on shutters. If you can afford impact (or if the price difference has narrowed), it might be worth it for convenience alone. But non-impact + shutters is still a valid choice if budget is the priority.

Timing and patience: Because I did this in 2021 during peak supply issues, I waited almost 5 months from the time I ordered to when the windows actually got installed. Factories were backed up like crazy then. I’ve heard lead times are better now, but it’s something to ask about. I think in 2025 it might be closer to 8-12 weeks for manufacturing in many cases (depending on the brand). Just be mentally prepared that it’s not usually quick – these are custom-made to fit your openings, after all. Also, the installation itself for my 9 windows took 2 days for a crew of 2 guys. Then I had to wait about a week for the county inspection after install. Everything passed, but those waiting periods felt long when you’re eager to get it done. So, patience is key.

All that said, even with the few regrets, the new windows (vinyl, double-pane Low-E) have been a huge improvement. No more draft, the AC bills went down, and the house looks nicer. Just make sure to clarify details up front and be patient with the timeline. And as everyone is saying – definitely get multiple quotes (I won’t ever skip that step again!). Good luck!

@inventor91 I hear you on NewSouth’s pricing and tactics. I’m in Pasco County (Wesley Chapel area) and went through a similar quote process. NewSouth quoted me about $18k for 12 impact windows for my house. I ended up going with a smaller local company who did the same 12 windows (also impact) for $12k. Granted, I think NewSouth’s quote included some extras and their own brand of window, but a $6k difference is huge. The local installer used PGT windows, which are top-notch, so I felt I got equivalent specs. NewSouth’s big advantage is they make their own windows right here, but that didn’t justify the high price for me – plus their sales pitch was indeed very pushy.
To echo what others have said: definitely look at well-reviewed local companies like the ones mentioned (I also got quotes from Karoly Windows and ProTech Windoors which were in line with the one I chose). Those local companies tend to be more customer-service oriented and reasonably priced. The big corporate outfits (and even ones like NewSouth that heavily advertise) often come in higher in cost.

Window World is another company some folks consider if budget is tight – they gave me a low quote as well. Just know their low advertised price usually is for a very basic window. When I asked about impact glass and better efficiency options, the price climbed a lot. Also, at the time I checked, they were backlogged and using subcontractors for install. I wasn’t comfortable with that, so I passed. They might be an option if you really need the cheapest route, but be sure you know what you’re (not) getting.

In summary, the spread between quotes can be crazy. My highest quote was around $20k+ and lowest about $11k; I took a middle option with the local company at $12k and have been happy. So do your homework on the companies – check reviews, compare quotes carefully – and don’t feel pressured by anyone to sign “right now.” The local companies I talked to were generally more relaxed and transparent, which I appreciated.

I’ll share my experience too. We undertook a big project in Valrico (Hillsborough County) on a 2005-built home. We replaced 20 windows and 2 sliding glass doors. We decided from the get-go to do impact-resistant everything (windows and sliders) because hurricanes are a concern for us and honestly, I’m done with putting up shutters (our old house had them).
Project scope & cost: It was a lot – the total came to about $32,000 for all that work. That breaks down roughly to around $1,200 per window and about $3,000 per sliding door. This was using PGT Winguard vinyl impact windows and sliding doors, installed by a local contractor. We financed a portion of it using a low-interest home improvement loan from our credit union (specifically for hurricane upgrades). The contractor didn’t have an in-house financing deal at the time, so we found our own financing.

Installation details: Our house is two-story, and one of those sliders was on the second floor leading to a balcony, so that was interesting. The install team actually brought in some extra guys the day they did the upstairs slider to carefully hoist the glass panels – those impact sliders are heavy (each panel was huge and laminated glass is not light). The whole installation took 3 full days. They scheduled all windows first two days, and the doors on the third day with finishing touches.

Timeline: It took just about 3 months from the day we signed the contract to the final installation. About 8-10 weeks of that was waiting for PGT to manufacture all the custom-sized windows and doors. Then another few weeks to schedule a convenient install date and get the permit lined up. The contractor handled the permitting paperwork. We had the permit inspection the day after installation was finished – passed without a hitch.

Misc: They coordinated with our alarm company too. We have alarm sensors on our doors, so an electrician came to hook the sensors onto the new sliding doors. The crew did a good job with cleanup – they hauled away all the old aluminum frames and even the old sliders. They left the place pretty tidy, though I did have to do a little vacuuming for small bits of sealant and stucco dust.

Post-installation benefits: Immediately noticed the house is quieter. Street noise and lawn mowers – much less noticeable. Also, our energy bills have ticked down a bit, likely thanks to the new Low-E double-pane glass. The biggest tangible benefit came in our homeowners insurance: after everything was done, we got a wind mitigation inspection done and our insurance premium went down by about 15%. That’s because we went from having just shutter protection to now having “permanent” opening protection (impact glass) on all openings, which gave an extra discount. That insurance savings will add up over the years, which helps offset some of the cost.

In the end, spending $32k was tough, but we covered some with savings, some with the loan, and we have no regrets. The comfort, security, and peace of mind we have now is huge. No stressing when a storm is coming, and day-to-day we enjoy the quieter, more efficient home. If you can budget for it, going all impact and doing the doors too (if you have old sliders) really makes for a comprehensive upgrade.

@golfplayer86 Thanks for the detailed breakdown of your project. I’m particularly interested in the insurance aspect you mentioned. How much your insurance went down is good to know (15% in your case). I’m also in Hillsborough and trying to weigh if the extra cost of impact windows is “worth it” beyond just peace of mind.
I have two questions:

Did your insurer require any specific documentation to give you that discount (like the wind mitigation inspection form, which you mentioned you did)? I assume yes, but just checking how that process went for you.

Before deciding on impact windows, did you consider any other hurricane protection alternatives? For example, keeping shutters (like you had in your old house) or something like hurricane window film on the glass (I’ve heard of people using security film – not sure if that’s code-approved or just extra security). Basically, what made you fully commit to impact for every opening vs mixing or sticking with shutters?

I’m debating impact vs. non-impact + shutters myself, so any insight there would help. And of course, the insurance savings info from anyone is appreciated – I’d love to know how much others saved on premiums by going impact. Thanks!

@leadership641 Great questions. I can chime in on the insurance part from my own experience (I’m not @golfplayer86, but I had a similar situation). We did all impact windows (no doors in our case, just windows) in mid-2024 and saw about a 20% reduction in our homeowners insurance premium afterwards. In dollars, that was roughly a $400/year savings for us. We already had some discount for having shutters previously, but having impact windows gave an additional bump because now the protection is considered “permanent” (meaning we don’t have to actively put up shutters; the windows are always protecting).
To answer your points:

Documentation: Yes, most insurance companies will want a wind mitigation inspection report to apply discounts. We hired a licensed wind mitigation inspector to come after the window install was done. He checked that all openings (windows, and in our case our doors were already impact or solid, and we also have an impact-rated garage door) are protected. Then he provided a Wind Mitigation Inspection report (on a standard form) stating we have impact-resistant glazing on all openings. We sent that to our insurance company. Some insurers might accept just the product proofs or permits, but generally the wind mit report is the gold standard because it quantifies the features of your home for wind defense. It was about $100 for the inspection, and totally worth it for the discount. In @golfplayer86’s case, they likely did the same (since they mentioned a wind mitigation inspection).

Alternatives vs Impact: We previously had metal shutters for all windows, which does qualify as protection too. The thing is, shutters only work if you put them up, and as you know it’s a hassle and sometimes you might be out of town or otherwise unable to deploy them. Impact windows remove that concern. We decided on impact for the convenience and peace of mind primarily – not having to rush to shutter up the house is a big relief. Also, funny enough, when we had shutters we already were getting an insurance credit, but it improved with impact because of that “permanent protection” I mentioned (some companies give a bit more credit for impact vs shutters, since there’s no human action needed).

Hurricane/security film on glass is something people talk about, but it’s not recognized by code or insurance as an official protection for windows. It might help hold glass together if it breaks, but it doesn’t make a regular window truly impact-resistant to the standards needed. So we didn’t consider film as an alternative – at most it’s an added safety measure, but not something that would satisfy building code for hurricane protection during a replacement project. Essentially, when you pull a permit to replace windows in Florida, you have to either install impact-rated windows or have external protection (shutters, etc.) for those windows. Film wouldn’t meet that requirement.

In short, if you already have functional shutters and don’t mind using them, non-impact windows plus shutters can absolutely work and keep you within code/insurance requirements (just make sure to let the permit folks know you have the shutters, like @katievolunteer did). If you’re tired of shutters or worry you might not always be able to deploy them, impact is worth the extra cost for many of us. Just don’t expect the insurance savings to pay it back quickly – it helps, but as @golfplayer86 and others said, it’s mostly about peace of mind and convenience. The insurance break is a nice bonus but not a game-changer financially in the short term (it could take decades of premium savings to equal the cost of the windows).

Hope that helps!

We replaced all the original windows in our 2003-built home in Clearwater last year as well. We chose non-impact vinyl double-pane Low-E windows, since we also have storm shutters and figured we’d save money that way. We did 11 windows total (single-story house). Our cost was $9,800 for all 11, which comes out to about $890 per window on average.
I wanted to share the difference it made in daily life, which has been HUGE for us. Our old windows were those cheap builder-grade single-pane aluminum ones; they were terribly inefficient. In the summer, you could literally feel the heat radiating off the glass and the aluminum frames would be hot to the touch. In winter (well, Florida “winter” – those few chilly nights), we’d feel cold drafts near every window.

After installing the new insulated windows, the house is so much more stable in temperature. No more drafts at all. The AC isn’t cycling on as frequently because less cool air is leaking out and less hot air coming in. Another benefit: noise reduction. We live on a street that gets a fair amount of traffic and I was surprised how much quieter it is inside now. The double-pane glass with the air gap really cuts down on outside noise. We didn’t specifically buy any soundproofing windows, it’s just a nice side effect of the insulated glass.

Also, the Low-E coating on the glass seems to be doing its job – we have some furniture and rugs near windows that used to get sun-faded. This past year, I’ve noticed far less fading because the Low-E blocks a lot of the UV light. And even without impact glass, these new windows feel sturdy and secure compared to the old rattly ones.

We used a local installer (a smaller family-owned company, not a big brand chain). They did a great job, including touching up the exterior stucco around the windows and replacing some of the interior wood trim. Everything looks seamless. They also took away the old windows as part of the service. The project went smoothly, and honestly my only regret is not doing it sooner. It’s one of those improvements that you feel every single day in comfort.

So for anyone on the fence – new windows, impact or not, will likely make your home so much more comfortable and efficient if your current windows are old. In our case, non-impact was fine because we had shutters and budget was a concern; we’re very happy with the result.

I want to share my experience with Karoly Windows & Doors, since you mentioned them @crypto728. We had Karoly replace all the windows in our home in Seminole (Pinellas County) last year. Our house is one-story, 10 windows total. We went with impact-resistant vinyl windows (double-pane with Low-E). Karoly is actually a dealer for Simonton and PGT windows, and in our case we chose Simonton impact windows to save a bit of money (PGT was a little more expensive option they offered).
Cost: Our total came to about $11,000 for 10 impact windows. That averages $1,100 per window. We felt that was very fair for impact glass. The quote included everything: the windows, installation, permits, inspection, old window disposal, and even repairing some stucco around the windows. They were not the cheapest quote we got (a smaller unlicensed guy offered like $9k cash but we didn’t trust that), but Karoly’s quote was competitive and we knew they have a great reputation.

Experience: One thing I really liked is we met directly with the owner (Karoly himself) during the quote/measure process. He was very straightforward, no pressure. The crew that came for installation were full-time Karoly employees (not subcontractors), and you could tell they were very skilled and had done this many times. They knocked out the install in about two days. There was one minor hiccup: one of the new windows had a small scratch on the glass when it arrived (manufacturing defect). Karoly’s team pointed it out to us (we might not have even noticed immediately) and they ordered a replacement sash under warranty. A few weeks later, they came back and swapped that out. I really appreciated that honesty and follow-up.

They also offered a financing option (18 months 0% interest) through a bank, which we actually used. That made it easier to manage the payments – we’re just making sure to pay it off within the promo period. Not having to pay all $11k at once was helpful.

Outcome: The Simonton windows are great so far. They look good, operate smoothly, and came with a lifetime warranty (which even covers accidental glass breakage for some period – I need to double-check the details, but it was a nice perk). And of course, the impact glass gives us peace of mind for storms. We haven’t been through a big hurricane since installation, but during some strong thunderstorms with high winds, we didn’t hear the usual whistling and felt very secure.

I definitely recommend giving Karoly a shot when collecting quotes. They lived up to their good reputation in our project. A bonus: because of the impact windows, we also got a small break on our insurance like others mentioned (after we submitted the wind mit report). All in all, a positive experience and worth the cost.

I’m in the quote-gathering phase like @crypto728 and have a question about window brands. I have a few different quotes from local companies and they each are pushing a different window manufacturer. For example, one company (I’ll say it – it’s Karoly Windows) is quoting Simonton windows. Another company (actually ProTech Windoors) quoted PGT windows. And a third contractor I spoke with offered CWS (Custom Window Systems) windows. All are impact, double-pane vinyl options, just different brands.
The prices are in the same ballpark (within maybe 10-15% of each other). So how do I decide which brand is best? Simonton vs PGT vs CWS – are there significant differences in quality, durability, etc.? I know all three are supposed to be good and are commonly used in Florida.

Some things I’m curious about:

Do any of those have a clear edge in terms of hurricane performance (like higher design pressure ratings or anything)?

What about warranty or maintenance issues?

Or is it more about the installer than the window brand, as long as the brands are all decent?

It’s a bit overwhelming because each vendor of course says the brand they sell is the best. For context, I’m looking at about 12 windows for a 1980s two-story home (so yes a bit older than 25 years, hope it’s okay I jump in!). The quotes are roughly: Simonton (via Karoly) ~
14k,PGT(viaProTech) 
14k,PGT(viaProTech) 
15.5k, and CWS (via another local dealer) ~$13.5k - all for impact windows. So price-wise they’re not wildly apart. I want to choose the right product and the right installer. Any insights on comparing these brands would be greatly appreciated!

@carol_clark Great question – the brand choices can indeed be confusing, especially when all three (Simonton, PGT, CWS) are reputable. The good news is you likely can’t go terribly wrong with any of those, but there are some differences to consider. I’m not an installer, but I’ve done a lot of research and have lived with two of those brands in different homes.
Simonton: Simonton is a well-known national brand (they’ve been around a long time, now under the Ply Gem family). They have specific lines for Florida impact resistance (e.g., Simonton StormBreaker Plus series). Simonton windows are vinyl and have a good reputation for quality and a solid warranty. I’ve heard their warranty even covers accidental glass breakage for a certain period, which is nice. Simonton frames might be a tad bulkier looking compared to some others (this can vary by series), but they are well-made. Many local companies (like Karoly) use Simonton because it’s reliable and reasonably priced.

PGT: PGT is a Florida-based company and one of the leading manufacturers of impact windows (their WinGuard line is very popular). They’re known for designing specifically for Florida’s hurricane-prone regions. One advantage often cited with PGT is that they offer higher design pressure (DP) ratings on some of their windows and can manufacture larger span windows that meet impact standards. So if you have any very large window openings or want the absolute beefiest hurricane performance, PGT might have an edge. PGT has both vinyl and aluminum impact lines (WinGuard comes in vinyl and an aluminum option, I believe). The quality is top-notch; they are probably considered the “premium” choice among the three brands you listed. You might pay a bit more for PGT (as your quotes reflect slightly higher for PGT).

CWS (Custom Window Systems): CWS is another Florida manufacturer (based in Ocala, FL). They might not have the same national name recognition, but here in Florida they are well-regarded. CWS makes both vinyl and aluminum windows as well, and they have impact-rated lines (often branded as WindPact for their impact products). In terms of quality, I’d say CWS is comparable to PGT in many ways. They build products to meet Florida codes just like PGT. Some contractors like them because their lead times can be shorter – I’ve heard that CWS has been able to deliver windows faster than some competitors recently, which can be a factor. CWS windows might be slightly less expensive than PGT, which lines up with your quotes (the CWS quote being lowest). They have good warranties too (from what I recall, possibly even longer on some aspects because they mention double lifetime on glass or something).

Key differences:

Design & Look: Minor differences in frame design. PGT might have a bit more refined look or slimmer profile on some models due to some aluminum reinforcement, whereas Simonton/CWS vinyl frames could be a bit thicker. But the differences are small. If you can see samples or photos, that might help if the aesthetic is a concern.

Performance: All will meet the required hurricane impact standards if they are selling them for your home (Florida Product Approved). PGT often touts higher DP ratings (like able to handle higher wind speeds) – might matter if you’re in a particularly exposed location or high-rise, but for most homes, any will do the job if rated for coastal winds.

Warranty: Check the specifics. Simonton usually has a robust lifetime warranty. PGT I believe offers a good warranty too (maybe 10 years on insulated glass seal, etc., lifetime on frame). CWS I read has something like a double lifetime on certain components (marketing term, perhaps meaning transferable). If warranty and service after sale is crucial, maybe see if any require you to go through the installer or if the manufacturer handles issues directly.

Installer matters: You hit the nail on the head that the installer is just as important. A great window can perform poorly if installed incorrectly. All three brands are proven products. I would lean towards choosing the company you trust the most to do the install right and stand behind it. If there is one you felt more comfortable with (and whose price is within reason), that might be a good deciding factor.

If purely choosing on brand and all else equal: PGT has the big name for Florida impact windows (a lot of people feel comfortable with them as a gold standard). Simonton is also very good and perhaps a bit more affordable usually, and lots of folks have Simonton impacts installed with no issues (they’ve been used in Florida for decades). CWS is somewhat lesser-known outside Florida, but locally you’ll find many who are happy with them; they’re built for our climate just the same.

I’d say compare the specific window series each is offering. For example, if the quote from Karoly is Simonton StormBreaker Plus vs ProTech’s quote of PGT WinGuard – both those series are tried-and-true. The CWS might be their WindPact Plus. All comparable. Maybe see if any have features you prefer (like one might have better hardware or easier to open latches, etc.).

Finally, maybe ask each installer why they prefer that brand – often their answer will tell you if it’s about quality, price, or just what they’re used to. In my experience, many local companies offer more than one brand (like Karoly does Simonton and PGT). Sometimes if you ask, they could quote both for you to compare directly (sounds like Karoly gave you Simonton by default, but perhaps they’d price PGT too if you wanted). Same with others.

Bottom line: All three are good. If PGT is only 10% more, some would take it for the peace of mind of the “premium” brand. If you want to save a bit, Simonton or CWS will still absolutely do the job and last a long time. I personally have Simonton now (happy with them) and have friends with PGT (they love them). I’ve heard good things about CWS from a neighbor who chose them mainly because of a faster delivery at the time – and they’ve been happy as well.

I’ll add my two cents to the Simonton/PGT/CWS debate. We actually had quotes that allowed a direct comparison between PGT and CWS for our project. The price difference was minimal: for our 12-window job, the quote was about $17.8k with PGT vs $16.6k with CWS (so roughly a $1.2k difference total). We ended up choosing PGT mainly because we were more familiar with the name and our contractor also slightly favored it, saying PGT had a longer track record in our area.
Now that the project is done, I honestly think either would have been fine. The PGT windows are excellent, but I suspect the CWS ones would have been too. Sometimes paying a little extra for peace of mind (even if it’s just psychological) is worth it, and for us that was the case with going PGT. If the price difference had been larger, we might have gone CWS.

A friend of mine in a nearby neighborhood went with Simonton and is also happy. One thing she mentioned: Simonton offered an option for an integrated lift rail (on her single-hung windows) that she liked – just a small detail. So each brand has some slight design differences that you might prefer one over the other, like @bmoore98 said.

So, @carol_clark, my advice is like others: focus on the installer quality first, but if you’re down to debating brands, know that all three are solid choices. Maybe lean towards whichever quote you feel best about overall. And if still in doubt, you could ask each company to show you a sample window or point you to a local showroom. Sometimes seeing and touching the product can make the decision easier.

Keep us posted on what you decide!

For those who’ve gone through it, I have a question about the permitting and inspection process. Did your window contractor handle all of that, or did you have to be involved with the city/county at all? I definitely want the job done with a permit (to keep everything legit for insurance and resale), but I’m not sure if I, as the homeowner, need to do anything or if it’s all on the installer.
Also, do you typically get a copy of the permit or inspection approval for your records? I just want to make sure I have paperwork showing the windows were properly permitted and passed inspection, in case I need it down the line (like for insurance or when selling the house). How does that usually work?

@crafter11 Good on you for thinking about permits – it’s really important in Florida. In my experience (and this seems standard), the window company/contractor handled the permit and inspection arrangements entirely. Here’s how it went for us and most folks here:
Permitting: After we signed the contract, the contractor submitted a permit application to the county. We as homeowners had to sign a “Notice of Commencement” (a Florida thing for any permitted job over a certain amount) which they guided us through – basically a form that gets filed with the county records office. But the contractor did the actual pulling of the permit. We paid for the permit fee as part of the contract (the quote had it included). For our job the permit fee was a few hundred dollars. We didn’t have to personally go to any offices or anything; just gave the contractor the signed forms they needed.

During Installation: We didn’t have to do anything permit-wise during install, except ensure the permit document was posted. Usually, the contractor will post a permit card or document visibly on your property (like taped to a front window or door) while work is ongoing, which is required so any inspector or official can see that the work is authorized. Our guys took care of that; I just left it in the window until inspection.

Inspection: After the install was finished, the contractor scheduled the final inspection with the county. The inspector came, checked the windows (and like @katievolunteer and others noted, possibly checks for shutters if non-impact, or checks the labels on the impact glass, etc.), and then signs off if everything’s good. We made sure someone was home to let the inspector in (sometimes they need to inspect from inside as well).

Getting the approval documents: Once it passed, the inspector updated the permit status to “approved” in the city/county system. We requested a copy of the finalized permit for our records. In our case, the contractor provided us a copy of the inspection approval sheet. But you can also usually download it from the county’s online permit system using your permit number or address. I’d recommend doing that to have a PDF or printout showing it was completed and approved. It’s good to file away with your house documents.

One more tip: Make sure any contractor you use does pull a permit. Don’t be tempted to do it without a permit to save a few bucks or because someone says it’s not needed. Replacing windows definitely requires a permit here. Unpermitted work can bite you later (insurance might not cover damage, and if you sell the house, unpermitted window replacements could cause issues in the inspection process). A licensed contractor will almost always insist on a permit because they could lose their license if they bypass it.

So, ideally you shouldn’t have to do much more than sign a few documents and let the contractor handle the bureaucracy. Just keep copies of everything after. Good luck!

For those who changed their window styles: is it worth switching styles (like single-hung vs slider vs casement)? Most of our current windows are single-hung (the typical up-and-down sliding). I was thinking of maybe doing some as horizontal sliders or awning windows for easier opening. Did anyone regret or love changing the style of window during their replacement?
Also, what about grids (muntins)? Our old windows have those colonial grids but I’m tempted to go with clear (no grids) for a more modern look. Did anyone remove grids and how did it affect the look of the house or HOA issues?

@soniccoder Great questions. I did change a few window styles in my project and can share the outcome:
Single-Hung vs Horizontal Slider: We had a couple of wide windows that were single-hung (they were about 48 inches wide, tall openings). We switched those to horizontal sliders. We absolutely love the change – the sliders give a more unobstructed view (since a single-hung that wide would have a center meeting rail splitting the view, whereas a 2-panel slider splits vertically which in a wide window is less intrusive). Sliders are also easier for my wife to open because you’re sliding side-to-side on a track, rather than pushing up against gravity. Both types seal well if they’re good quality, but perhaps single-hungs might have a slight edge on sealing by design (gravity helps keep them closed tightly, and fewer moving parts). In Florida, both styles are common. I’d say go with what functionally and aesthetically suits each room. Just ensure if you do change, the installer sizes it right so egress (escape in emergency) requirements are met – e.g., a slider usually can provide a big opening, so that’s fine.

Casement or Awning windows: I didn’t use these, but I considered casements (the crank-out ones that hinge on the side) for a couple small bedroom windows. I ended up sticking with single-hung there. Casements can open fully which is nice for breeze and egress, but they open outward which might not work if you have landscaping or walkways right outside. In a hurricane, you of course keep them closed, so no worry there as long as they’re latched (they actually seal very tight when latched, good for wind). Some people avoid casements in Florida just because the outward-swing can catch wind if left open by accident, but if you’re responsible it’s fine. Awning windows (hinge at top, crank out) are great for bathrooms or high windows – they can be left open a bit even in light rain, since they shed water, but they’re usually smaller.

Grids vs No Grids: We had grids on our old windows too (the traditional colonial look). We decided to go grid-free (clear) on all the new windows except one decorative arch window that we kept grids in to match neighborhood style. The difference is amazing – the house looks more modern and our view out is completely open. It really updated the look of our home. Our HOA was okay with it; we checked beforehand and they had no rule requiring grids, so definitely check yours. Some HOAs want uniformity (e.g., all front-facing windows must have grids to match neighbors), but ours allowed the change since many neighbors were ditching grids too. If you like the grids, some modern windows offer nicer ones (between-the-glass grids so they’re easier to clean), or you can even do perimeter grids for a more contemporary look. But we love the clean look of no grids.

One thing: if you remove grids, your house’s appearance will change, sometimes dramatically. In our case it actually made the windows look a bit larger (since nothing was breaking them up). We had to get used to it, but now when I look at grid windows, they seem busy. Totally personal preference though.

In summary, changing styles can be a great idea if it improves your view or functionality. Just coordinate with your contractor so they account for any differences (like a slider might need a different size opening or an extra mullion if combining windows). And for grids, clear glass is increasingly popular and likely to stay in style. Just double-check with HOA if you have one, and consider doing all or most windows the same for consistency (front of house especially).

I’ll chime in regarding changing window styles: I did exactly what you’re considering. In my living room, I had two single-hung windows side by side. When replacing, I opted for one large 3-panel slider (with the outer two panels sliding open to the center). It essentially turned those two windows into one big window opening. The effect is fantastic – much more view and it made the room feel brighter and more open. It did require a bit of reframing and a larger header, so it was a slightly more involved job (and needed special permit considerations since I enlarged the opening). But if you’re sticking within the same opening size, swapping style (single-hung vs slider) is straightforward.
As @lisa_moon said, horizontal sliders are great for wide window openings. For taller, narrow openings, single-hung or casement might be better. We also put one casement window in a bathroom (small window, wanted it hinged to catch breeze and easy to crank open). It works nicely, though I will say the crank mechanism on a casement can be a point of failure down the road – something to oil once in a while and be gentle with.

On grids: we removed all ours too. No grids = easier to clean and a more modern appearance. Our neighbors did the same when they got new windows, so it seems to be the trend. Just like @lisa_moon, our HOA didn’t mind because more people are updating their homes similarly. Definitely check because some neighborhoods with a very uniform look might resist changes. In case your HOA requires grids on front windows for example, one compromise could be doing grids only on the top sash of a single-hung (sometimes called a "farmhouse" style grid) or something minimal. But if you can, going gridless is very refreshing.

One caution: If your house’s architecture is very traditional, no-grids will modernize it – which is usually good, but just make sure it won’t look out of place. For us, it was an improvement.

All in all, don’t be afraid to tailor window styles to what you want. The cost difference between styles is usually not huge (except casements can be a bit more expensive per window than sliders or single-hung). Discuss it with your installer to see cost and feasibility. Mine was very accommodating in doing different styles and it made me very happy with the result.

I noticed CWS (Custom Window Systems) came up earlier. I’ll add my experience since we actually went with CWS impact windows for our home. We’re in a inland part of Pinellas (not on the water, but still in the wind-borne debris region). We had 12 windows replaced with CWS WindPact Plus vinyl impact windows.
Why CWS? The local dealer we went with carried both PGT and CWS. At the time (late 2022), PGT was estimating about a 12-14 week lead time for our window sizes, whereas CWS could deliver in about 8 weeks. We also got a slight price break with CWS (like a few hundred dollars less than PGT). The dealer assured us that CWS meets the same standards and he had been installing them for years with good results. So we decided on CWS largely due to the faster availability and the fact that we’d heard good things from another neighbor who used them.

Cost: It ended up roughly $15k for 12 windows (impact, Low-E, vinyl). That’s around $1,250 per window on average. Pretty comparable to others.

Performance: Now that they’re in, I can say the CWS windows look and feel high-quality. The frames are solid, the locking mechanism is sturdy, and they are smooth to operate. We went through one strong tropical storm since installation and had no issues at all – no leaks, no flexing, nothing. They have all the certifications (Florida Product Approval, etc.), so I wasn’t worried about that.

I don’t have direct comparison of PGT vs CWS in use, but from what I gather they are quite similar in how they perform for a homeowner. One small thing I liked: the CWS windows came with nice documentation and even a removable sticker that lists the serial number and specs of the window, which I filed away in case of future warranty needs. They also included standard half screens and the screens fit well.

If you go with CWS, just make sure you are getting the right series (their non-impact line is different; WindPact Plus is their impact line). And have the installer explain any specifics about them (for instance, our CWS windows have small hidden “balance covers” that needed to be popped out for the inspector to see the anchor screws – little stuff like that the installer handled).

So yeah, I’d say if one of your quotes is for CWS and that company is reputable, you can feel confident with that brand. PGT, Simonton, CWS – all have proven themselves in Florida’s climate. Sometimes the decision comes down to availability or a slight price difference, as was the case for us.