Getting quotes for replacing windows on my home

Are both quotes for the same number of windows and the same type (like full frame replacements vs inserts)? Sometimes that can cause a price gap. Hidden costs can definitely be a thing. In my experience, permit fees and old window removal are common extras if not explicitly stated. One of my quotes had a separate charge for hauling away the old windows (like $50 per window). Another thing: does the local contractor include finishing the interior trim or painting? If not, you might have to do or pay for that separately.
As for negotiation, it’s pretty common in this industry. I’d say don’t ever assume the first price is firm. We were able to negotiate our window quote down and also get some extras included. But first, make sure you’re comparing the same scope of work between quotes. If one is including more (like wrapping the exterior trim in aluminum) and the other isn’t, you’ll want to factor those costs in before negotiating.

@fitness113 Good point, thanks. Both quotes are for insert replacements (not full frame), since my frames are in decent shape. Neither mentioned doing new interior trim or painting, so I think that’s on me. The local guy said they would reuse my existing wood trim if it doesn’t get damaged, otherwise replacing trim would add to the cost. The big Andersen quote presumably includes new interior trim pieces where needed (it’s kind of all-inclusive from what I gather). Exterior aluminum wrapping is included in the Andersen quote, and the local said they could do it for an extra charge per window if I want.
It’s tricky because the cheaper quote could end up closer to the expensive one after adding permit ($200 in my town) and any unforeseen stuff. I’ll definitely clarify about hauling away old windows and disposing of them – I assumed it was included but maybe not!

On negotiation: sounds like I should definitely try. I haven’t tried negotiating yet with either. Wanted to gather more info first. Appreciate the tips so far! 🙏

I went through this last year, so I feel your pain. We had 12 windows replaced and got quotes from 4 companies. The prices were all over as well. Some things we learned:
Always ask for an itemized breakdown. This helped us spot differences. For example, one quote didn’t include the city permit fee at all (would’ve been extra), and another built it into a higher base price.

Hidden costs to watch for: permit fees, disposal fees (old windows removal), any carpentry for rot repair, extreme exterior wrapping or capping, and painting or staining of interior trim. Some companies include these, others don’t.

We ended up negotiating with our top two choices. We told each one straight up that we have other quotes. They both actually came down a bit in price. The one we chose knocked off an extra 5% and included free foam insulation around the frames (one less thing to worry about).

In short, definitely compare line by line. If a quote isn’t detailed, ask them to clarify what’s included. It can prevent those “oh by the way, that’ll cost extra” surprises later. And yes, don’t be shy to negotiate – window companies expect it. One salesman even hinted that “if price is the only thing holding you back, we can talk,” which was my cue to haggle 😅.

Same here, we saw huge differences between quotes. We have a 1960s house and needed 15 windows replaced. Our quotes ranged from about $25k (from a well-known national company) down to $12k (from a smaller local outfit). It was crazy. The highest quote included literally everything and was for high-end wood windows, while the lowest was for basic vinyl windows with minimal extras.
We ended up going with a mid-range local company. Their initial quote was $14k for good vinyl windows (Soft-Lite brand) including install, and they mentioned any extensive wood rot repair would be extra if discovered. After I showed them a competitor’s lower quote, they agreed to drop the price to $13k and also threw in free exterior trim capping on all windows.

One unexpected cost we did encounter: once they removed a couple of old windows, they found some mild water damage in the surrounding wood. It cost us about $400 extra for them to fix that framing (which they had warned as a possibility). Honestly, I was okay with that since it was legit work they had to do and they showed me the damage. The final price was still way below the crazy $25k quote.

So yeah, watch for potential rot repair costs. If your house is older, there's always a chance. I’d say make sure the quote specifies what happens if they find damage (do they charge per hour, per material, etc?). And use those multiple quotes to your advantage in negotiating like you plan to – it saved us a decent chunk of money.

We replaced 8 windows last summer, and I got 3 quotes. The highest was from Renewal by Andersen (ridiculously high, like you’re seeing), and the lowest was from a small one-man contractor. We actually went with a middle one in our case too.
To give you an idea, RBA quoted me around $18k for 8 windows (averaging over
2kperwindow!).Alocalcontractorusinggoodqualityvinylwindows(Alsidebrand)quoted 
2kperwindow!).Alocalcontractorusinggoodqualityvinylwindows(Alsidebrand)quoted 
9k for the same number. Huge gap. We loved the RBA product but just could not justify double the cost. The local guy’s quote didn’t include painting the interior trim, but everything else was covered. We negotiated and got him down to $8.5k AND he agreed to cap the exterior wood with aluminum as part of the deal (originally he charged extra for that).

Also, in one quote the salesperson pulled the old “price good for today only” trick to try to pressure us. We didn’t bite. Honestly, negotiation was expected; none of them seemed shocked when I counter-offered. The worst they can say is no. In our case, we got a better price or some add-ons in every instance just by asking.

Glad I found this discussion. I’m about to start getting quotes for 10 windows and a patio door, and I’m bracing myself now 😂. Quick question for those who dealt with the “sign today for a discount” thing: Is that usually a real discount or just a pressure tactic? One friend told me a company offered him 20% off if he signed on the spot, which sounds huge. But it feels fishy.
Also, any tips on negotiating without feeling awkward? I’m not a great haggler by nature. Did you negotiate right after getting the quote, or did you call them later to talk them down? I’m trying to gather some strategies so I don’t freeze up when the time comes!

Oh boy, the ol’ "sign today and save" spiel 🙄. It’s almost always a pressure tactic. They start with an inflated price and then act like they’re giving you a deal if you commit immediately. In reality, that "discount" often just brings it down to the price it should have been to begin with. I had one company start at $15k, then say “but if you sign right now, we can do $12k.” I said no thanks, and sure enough a week later they called me back willing to do the $12k again, LOL.
My advice: never sign on the spot. Take the quote, say you need to think about it. That alone sometimes makes them come back with a better offer later. And you can always negotiate later over phone/email when you’re more comfortable, armed with other quotes.

As for feeling awkward, remember these sales reps do negotiations all the time. It’s part of their job. You can be polite but firm. One approach: ask “Is this the best you can do? I have other quotes that are lower.” That puts the ball in their court without you needing to name a number first. They may come down on price or throw in something extra. It can definitely feel weird at first to haggle on home projects, but trust me, window companies expect it. You got this!

I’ll second that advice. My spouse actually got swayed by a “sign now” deal and signed a pricey contract while I wasn’t home 😱. Thankfully, we invoked the 3-day cancellation law to back out of it. Now we're gathering multiple quotes instead. So yes, don't sign on the spot, even if they dangle a one-day-only carrot. Take your time!

Jumping in with a hidden cost that bit us: lead paint handling. Our house was built in 1970, and one of the companies added an extra charge per window for lead-safe practices (like ~$50 per window) because our frames had old lead paint on them. I hadn’t even thought about that! Another company didn’t mention lead at all in the quote, which was a red flag because legally they’re supposed to follow certain procedures if lead paint is present. So if your house is older (pre-1978 in the US), ask about how they handle lead paint and if there’s a fee for it.
Also, disposal fees – as others said, definitely confirm. One quote of mine buried a $300 “dumpster fee” for hauling away the old windows and debris. It was in the fine print. It’s not like a sneaky scam or anything (they do have to pay to dump stuff), but I prefer when it’s upfront. We negotiated that fee out in the end (the contractor agreed to waive it to win the job).

So yeah, hidden costs can be permits, disposal, lead handling, rotten wood repairs, etc. Make a checklist and ask each company about these specifically. It puts them on notice that you know what to look for.

Good call-outs by everyone. I’ll add: permit fees and processes can vary a lot by location. In my city, the contractor has to pull a permit for window replacements, and it cost me $150. One contractor included that in his quote, another told me I had to go get the permit myself from City Hall (which I did). I actually preferred handling it to save a bit of money, but some people might not want the hassle. So just be clear on who’s doing the permit and at what cost.
Also, in some areas if you're changing the style or size of a window (like turning a window into a patio door, or enlarging a window opening), the permit costs and requirements go up, and you might need additional work (like adding a header, etc.). That could add to cost big time. If you’re just same-size replacements, not an issue, but I thought I’d mention it as something I learned while researching.

On negotiation: when I got my quotes, I flat out told each company “I’m getting multiple quotes and will be comparing.” I think that helped set the tone that I wasn’t going to just sign immediately. Most were understanding and some even pre-emptively gave me their "best price" (though I suspect there was still wiggle room).

@sarahs61 To echo what @dennis_rogue said, those “act now!” discounts are mostly pressure tactics. I actually laughed when one salesman offered me a "manager's special" if I signed that day – he dropped the price by 15% on the spot, which made me wonder why he didn’t just give that price to begin with. I told him I’d still need to think. A few days later, he called me and offered even more off (like another 5%) because “end of month quotas” were coming up. 😂 It did feel a bit like buying a used car.
We ended up not going with that company anyway, but it showed me how their pricing had a lot of padding. So definitely don’t feel bad walking away or taking your time. It can actually get you a better deal when they follow up.

And on how to negotiate: I did a lot over email after the initial visits. I’d email the rep like, “Hey, we really liked your product but the price is a bit higher than others. If we could get it closer to $X, we’d be ready to move forward.” That worked with two companies. It felt easier than haggling face-to-face for me.

Thanks for the advice, all! @dennis_rogue @gaming_duke – that makes sense. I definitely won’t fall for the immediate-sign thing now. I’m going to gather all my quotes first and then circle back.
In fact, had my first sales visit today. As expected, he did the whole dramatic price drop routine. Started at $19k, then magically down to $14k “if I commit before he leaves.” I remembered this thread and literally had to hold in a smirk 😏. I told him politely that I don’t make decisions on the spot. He kept at it for a bit (“let me call my manager” and came back with “okay $13.5k, but that’s rock bottom”). I still said nope.

So I walked away with the $13.5k quote in writing, which I suspect I can still get later if I want it. I’m going to get a couple more quotes in the next week. Feeling a lot more confident now that I know their playbook. Appreciate everyone sharing these tips!

Wow, sounds like you’re handling it like a pro now, @sarahs61!
I’ll share my experience too: We had 10 windows and 1 sliding door done last year. Got three quotes:

Renewal by Andersen: ~
32,000initially😱(yes,for10windows+1door).Theydidthebigshowwithahighquotethensome"discounts"bringingitto 
32,000initially😱(yes,for10windows+1door).Theydidthebigshowwithahighquotethensome"discounts"bringingitto 
25k if we signed that day.

Pella (through a local Pella dealer): Came in around $18,000 for their wood/clad windows and a fiberglass sliding door. More reasonable but still high.

Local company (using mid-range vinyl windows, I think it was Simonton brand): $11,500, all inclusive.

We were honestly shocked at the RBA price. Even $25k after their so-called discounts was way out of our budget. The Pella quote was tempting because we liked the look of wood, but in the end we chose the local company. Their vinyl windows weren’t as fancy, but they were good quality and energy-efficient.

The local company’s quote spelled out everything: permit, installation, exterior wrapping, removal of old windows, etc. No surprises at all. And we still asked, “Is that the best you can do?” and they knocked off about $500 as a "new customer discount" when we signed.

No major hidden costs came up during install either. The only small extra was we decided to have them install new interior trim on one window where the old trim was in bad shape, which cost an extra $200. They told us ahead of time, so it was fine.

Long story short: those big name companies can charge double or more. You pay a premium for the name and maybe some bells and whistles. But you can absolutely get great results from a lesser-known local outfit for way less money. Just make sure to check reviews and references on whoever you choose, so you know they’ll do good work even if the price is low.

Has anyone here tried getting quotes from the big box stores like Home Depot or Lowe’s? I got one from Home Depot just for comparison, and it was kind of strange. They subcontract installers, and the quote was not actually that cheap. For 6 windows, Home Depot’s quote came out to around $9k (using Simonton windows, I believe). They did itemize it: there was even a charge for “measurement services” of $100 which would be refunded if I went ahead with the order. Kinda felt nickel-and-dimed.
In contrast, a local window company quoted me $7.5k for the same 6 windows, using a comparable product. And that included everything, no weird fees.

I always assumed Home Depot/Lowe’s would be cheaper, but not really. Maybe the benefit is some financing deal or something, but price-wise they weren’t impressive. I’m leaning towards the local company, but curious if others have had different experiences with the home improvement store route. Did you find any hidden costs or advantages there?

We looked at the Home Depot option too. In our case Lowe’s, actually. We found similar to you: the quote wasn’t much better than a local contractor. Lowe’s quoted us about $10k for 10 windows (ReliaBilt vinyl windows). A local independent guy gave $9.2k for 10 windows (for an even better window brand). We ended up going with the local guy.
One thing I noticed with the big stores – their quote had some corporate overhead built in, and the timeline was longer (they said it would take 8-10 weeks to get the windows). The local company got it done in 4 weeks.

That measuring fee you mentioned is basically to make sure you’re serious (they refund it later). Kinda silly but I guess it weeds out tire-kickers. There were also separate charges in the fine print for things like “exterior trim not included” – they would have charged extra if any exterior wood needed replacing or wrapping.

So yeah, no significant advantage with the big box stores, except maybe convenience. But you still have to deal with subcontractors anyway. For negotiation, those store quotes felt pretty fixed – the rep told me the prices are what they are, not much wiggle. A local contractor was more flexible on price.

I want to highlight something @patricia_peak touched on: full frame vs insert installations, and how that can impact both cost and surprises. Our home is older (built 1955) and we had some rot in the window frames. We decided to do full frame replacements on a few windows because of that. It cost more upfront (each full frame window was like $300 more than an insert would have been), but it meant they completely removed the old frame and trim and could address the rot.
Some quotes we got were for inserts only (cheaper, less labor), and those salespeople either didn’t mention the existing rot or didn’t notice it. That could’ve been a nasty surprise later if we went with them – they’d pull out the sash and then be like “oh, the frame is bad, this will cost extra or not work as planned.”

So, if you have an older house, ask the contractor if they saw any issues with the frames or sills and how they would handle it. In our case, doing the more expensive full frame install on the windows that needed it saved us from future headaches. The quote that we went with clearly stated “2 windows to be full-frame replacement, including new interior wood trim and exterior cladding.” We did have to paint the new interior trim ourselves afterwards (to save money), but that was minor.

TL;DR: Make sure the quote accounts for the condition of your existing window frames. Insert replacements are cheaper but won't fix underlying frame problems, which could lead to unexpected costs mid-project.

@vr812 Great point. In my project, one contractor did mention that some sills looked a bit suspect. He actually built in a small contingency in the quote (like “Up to 2 hours of carpentry included for minor rot repair”). I appreciated that, even though we ended up needing more than 2 hours for one window and paid extra, at least he set the expectation.
Another contractor we had bid didn’t say a peep about potential rot and would have just hit us with a change order later no doubt. We didn’t choose that one partly because of that – I got a better vibe from the guy who was upfront about possible issues.

It’s definitely something folks should discuss with their installer during the quote: “What if you find damage? How is it handled and billed?” A good company will be transparent about that.

And yeah, full frame vs insert can change the cost a lot. If you can avoid full frame (no significant rot, etc.), inserts are fine and cheaper. But when needed, better to pay more and do it right, as you did.

Negotiation strategy tip: If the quote is still too high for your budget, see if there are options to tweak the project scope that can bring it down. When I was getting quotes, one came in about $2k over what I was willing to spend. I talked to the contractor and we found a few adjustments:
I opted for double-pane glass instead of triple-pane on a few windows (I originally thought I wanted triple for energy savings, but double-pane is fine in our climate). That saved a few hundred bucks.

I skipped decorative grilles (grids) between the glass that I had spec’d for the front windows. Purely cosmetic, and removing them knocked off a bit more.

We also decided to do the window capping (aluminum trim) on the front windows only, and not on a couple of side windows that aren’t visible (we can paint those wood trims ourselves to protect them). The contractor was fine with that and it saved some money.

After those changes, he re-quoted and we were within my budget. So, sometimes negotiating isn’t just about “give me a discount” – it can be a discussion to modify the work to meet your target price. A good contractor will work with you on that.

Of course, you want to be careful not to cut out important things just to save money. But if there are nice-to-haves or upgrades (like triple pane, fancy hardware finishes, etc.), you can decide if they’re worth the cost.

Also, timing can be your friend. We learned that window companies have busy seasons and slow seasons. During peak spring/summer, they might not deal much on price because they have plenty of work. But in the off-season (like winter), they often run promotions or are more willing to negotiate to fill their schedule.
In my case, we scheduled our window install for early December. The company gave us about 15% off compared to the quote we got for the same work in September. They straight up said, “if you can wait until our slow season, we can offer a discount.” Fine by me – we lived with the old windows a couple months longer and saved like $1,500.

So if you’re not in a rush, it could be worth asking, “Do you have any off-season rates or upcoming promotions?” The worst they say is no. Some places do year-end sales or early-year (January/February) specials to keep crews working.