Hillsborough/Tampa Bay Window Replacement - Seeking Costs, Tips & Recommendations

I got my windows through Home Depot’s installation service. They used Simonton windows. It was an OK experience – not the cheapest (Home Depot subcontracts local installers and probably takes a cut). I paid ~$10k for 8 non-impact Simonton windows installed. If I had gone direct to a window company, I suspect I could have saved some money. But at the time I trusted the big store. Install went fine, but communication was a bit slow (had to go through HD reps who then talk to the installer). In the end, windows are good, just maybe I paid a bit of a convenience premium.

For those who got multiple quotes, how did you politely decline the ones you didn’t choose? I always feel bad after spending time with a sales rep, but obviously you can only pick one. I usually just tell them “thanks, I chose another company” and most understand. One rep kept pushing and I had to just be blunt. Anyone do it differently?

@breeze_wright – I just told the other companies that I decided to go with a different provider, and thanked them for their time. You’re not obligated to justify too much. Most were courteous; one tried to undercut last-minute, but I’d already signed with my preferred installer. It’s normal for folks to get multiple quotes, so I wouldn’t feel too bad. The good companies won’t pressure you when you say no.

I decided to get impact windows after Hurricane Irma blew out a couple of my old ones back in 2017. Even though Tampa Bay dodged the worst, it was enough to send debris at my windows. That experience convinced me – so when I could afford it, I upgraded. It’s a big reason a lot of us Floridians bite the bullet on cost: one bad storm can wreak havoc if you have weak windows. Now I feel much safer each hurricane season.

Don’t forget to get a wind mitigation inspection done after you install those impact windows/doors. @sports_mary mentioned an insurance discount – to actually get it, you usually need a wind mit inspection report that shows all openings are protected. It’s a quick inspection (separate from the county inspection). I hired a home inspector to do mine for ~$100 and sent it to my insurance company. They knocked a nice chunk off my premium. If you already had one when you bought the house, update it whenever you harden more openings.

One thing for new windows: keep all the documentation and stickers that come with them until you’re sure you won’t need them. The installer should give you paperwork with the product approvals, warranty info, etc. This can be helpful for insurance or future owners. And make sure you get the finalized permit paperwork or proof of inspection passing from your contractor. Usually they'll give you a sticker on the electrical panel or a paper from the county for your records.

I have an older (1965) wood-frame house in Seminole Heights. When we did our windows, the installers found some wood rot in the old window frames/sills. They had to replace some wood and rebuild a bit before putting the new windows in. It added about $800 extra to the cost (for materials and labor to fix those sections). Just a heads up: if you have an older home, build a little contingency budget for that kind of thing. A good installer will fix it right, but it’s extra work/time. In contrast, my friend’s newer block home had zero add-on costs since concrete openings either fit or they just add some stucco patch.

Loving my new sliding glass patio door that came with the window package. It was pricey (like $4k by itself), but it’s night-and-day compared to the old aluminum slider. The new one is impact-rated, heavy duty, but it glides so smoothly and has better locks. I also feel a lot more secure that it won’t just blow in if we get a storm. If you’re doing windows and have an old slider, consider doing it together if budget allows.

One small thing I noticed post-install: the Low-E glass has a slight tint/reflection. At first, I was worried it looked a little darker from outside (has a slight greenish tint if you look at it at an angle). But that’s normal for Low-E coatings. Now I don’t even notice it. From inside, the light is still clear. But if anyone is super particular about window tint, just be aware modern energy-efficient windows often have this. Personally, I like that you can’t see in as clearly during the day; it adds privacy.

We decided to eliminate the grids (muntins) on our new windows to have a cleaner look and more light. Our old windows had those colonial grids and we were tired of them. The window company didn’t charge extra to leave grids out (in fact, sometimes grids cost extra if you want them). Now the house looks more modern and the view out is nicer. If your HOA doesn’t require grids, it’s something to consider for style and possibly saving a bit on cost.

In contrast, I kept grids on the front-facing windows of my house because of HOA rules (and to maintain the look). The grid option added about $50 per window for the manufacturer to include them within the glass. Not too bad. And the HOA is happy because the house looks the same style as before from the street. So, grid or no grid is a personal/HOA choice – most companies can do either. Just know it can have a minor cost impact either way.

Thank you all for the insights!

Reporting my costs: I'm in Apollo Beach (Hillsborough). Did 6 windows (all bedrooms) with impact glass, PGT brand. Cost was $7,000 flat. Smaller project, but price per window was around $1,166 on average. We plan to do the rest of the house next year. So far, very happy with the ones we replaced – especially notice the difference in the kids’ rooms (quieter and cooler).

I’m up in Land O’ Lakes (Pasco County). We’re a bit farther from the coast, so many neighbors go non-impact + shutters. I ended up doing impact anyway for convenience. My permit process was actually faster than I expected – Pasco County turned it around in a few days. The whole job (11 windows) cost me $10,800 with a local contractor. If anyone in Pasco wants details, I’m happy to share more, but generally the info in this thread still applies. Prices here aren’t much different from Tampa proper.

For those in the City of Tampa: be aware the city’s permitting can be a tad slower than the county. My contractor mentioned that City of Tampa permits sometimes take a week or two longer due to backlogs. I experienced a slight delay getting inspection scheduled as well. Nothing too bad, but just don’t panic if it takes a bit longer in city limits. In the end it all got done, just a minor patience test.

I had a great experience with a small family-run company in Pinellas. No big brand name, just a father-and-son team. They installed CWS impact windows for me, 8 windows for $9k. Sometimes those smaller outfits give you a very personal touch. They even helped fix one of my stuck old shutters for free while they were there. 😅 So not all smaller companies are sketchy – do your homework on them, but there are gems out there.

Did anyone here replace their entry doors as part of the project? I have an old front door with side glass panels. Wondering if it’s worth doing those to impact as well or just stick to windows. My quotes for windows alone are already high, and adding doors might blow the budget. I know doors can be pricy too, especially with decorative glass.

I included one exterior door (with a half-glass) in my project. Impact doors with glass are indeed expensive – my single front door with an impact glass insert was about $2,500 by itself. If budget is an issue, you could do windows now and doors later. Doors don't have as much surface area as windows, so from an energy standpoint, windows make a bigger difference first. For hurricane protection, if your front door glass isn't impact, you would need to cover it or eventually upgrade it to consider your home fully protected. But plenty of people do windows first and tackle doors later when funds allow. My advice: if the door is old or leaking, include it; if it's still solid and you have shutters/coverings for any glass in it, you can wait.

I only had 4 windows to replace (townhouse in Tampa). I opted for non-impact double-pane because we have HOA-provided hurricane shutters. Total cost was $2,800. Small job but I'm glad I did it - the old aluminum sliders were awful. Now the bedrooms are cooler and quieter. So even if you have a small number of windows, it’s worth doing.

Our project was on the other end of the spectrum - 22 windows and 3 sliding doors (large two-story home in Carrollwood). We knew it would be expensive, and it was: about $45k total for all impact (mix of fixed, single-hung, and sliders). We used PGT for everything. It was a massive job that took a full week. Painful on the wallet, but now the whole house is buttoned up and our insurance actually dropped by almost $1000/year after getting full credit for opening protection. So, over the long term, we’ll recoup some of that cost. And the house feels like a fortress now.