Yeah, prep is everything. I’ve tried to trust those “self-priming” cans, but I always end up regretting it on the tougher finishes. Even with the fancy new paints, if I don’t rough up that Andersen surface, it never really sticks. It’s tedious, but worth it in the long run.
I know what you mean about those “self-priming” cans. I got suckered into trying one of those on our back porch windows—Andersen, too—and it looked great for about a month. Then the first rain came through and the paint started peeling around the edges. I probably should’ve known better, but I figured if the company says you don’t need to scuff up the surface, maybe they’d finally cracked the code. Nope. Ended up sanding everything down and doing it the old-fashioned way.
I get not wanting to spend a whole weekend prepping, but every time I try to cut corners, it bites me later. Especially with those composite Andersen frames—they’re smooth as glass out of the box, but that’s exactly why nothing sticks unless you rough ’em up a bit.
Funny thing is, my neighbor swears by just cleaning with TSP and skipping sanding altogether, but he’s got more patience for touch-ups than I do. Maybe some folks have better luck, but I’ll stick to elbow grease for now.
- Totally get the urge to skip sanding, but like you said, those Andersen frames are just too slick.
- Tried the TSP-only route once—paint held for a bit, then flaked right off.
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Same here. Prep feels like a pain, but it’s way less hassle than redoing everything.“I get not wanting to spend a whole weekend prepping, but every time I try to cut corners, it bites me later.”
- Curious if anyone’s found a primer that actually sticks without sanding? Haven’t had luck yet.
I’ve tried a bunch of “no-sand” bonding primers (like Stix and Insl-X) on Andersen vinyl, hoping to save time, but honestly, nothing’s stuck long-term without at least a quick scuff. Even the ones labeled “super adhesion” eventually peeled in spots. Has anyone actually had better luck? Maybe there’s a trick I missed...
Tried the same thing with my patio door—used Stix, followed all the prep instructions, and still got peeling after a year or so. I figured I could skip sanding to save time but nope, ended up redoing it anyway. Even a light scuff with a sanding pad seems to make a big difference. Not sure there’s a real shortcut for this one… wish there was.
- Gotta say, I’ve had mixed results with sanding.
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“Even a light scuff with a sanding pad seems to make a big difference. Not sure there’s a real shortcut for this one…”
- Tried the light scuff method on my old Andersen sliders—still had issues with paint sticking, even after being careful.
- Ended up using a liquid deglosser instead of sanding the second time. Honestly, it worked just as well for me, and saved my arms.
- Maybe it depends on the door material or finish? Mine’s vinyl, not wood.
- Prep is key, but sanding isn’t always the magic bullet, at least not for every surface.
- Sometimes I think it’s more about wiping everything down super well and letting it dry than going crazy with sandpaper.
- Not saying skip sanding every time, but if you hate it, deglosser might be worth a shot.
- Ran into this with my 90s Andersen casements—sanding didn’t always cut it, especially on the vinyl bits.
- Tried both sanding and deglosser. Deglosser saved me a ton of time and less mess too.
- One thing I learned: if there’s any old residue or dust, even the best prep won’t help. I go over everything with a tack cloth now.
- For wood, I still prefer a quick sand, but vinyl or composite… deglosser all the way.
- Honestly, half the battle is just making sure it’s bone dry before painting. Skipped that once—regretted it.
Has anyone had issues with deglosser leaving a weird film on the vinyl? I tried it once and maybe I didn’t wipe it off well enough, but the paint didn’t stick as nicely as I hoped. Is there a specific brand you trust, or is it just technique?
I’ve run into that film issue too, and honestly, I’m not convinced deglosser is the best route for vinyl. A lot of folks swear by it, but in my experience, even with a careful wipe-down, it can leave a residue that messes with paint adhesion. I’ve had better luck lightly sanding with a fine-grit pad instead—just enough to scuff the surface. It’s a bit more work, but I find the paint sticks better and there’s less risk of weird reactions. Maybe it’s just me, but I’d rather put in the elbow grease than deal with peeling paint down the line.
Have you ever had any issues with sanding actually scratching the vinyl too much? I’ve always been worried I’ll go overboard and end up with visible marks once the paint’s on. What grit do you usually stick with for that?