We got our Andersen windows about 11 years ago when we did a big reno on our old 60s ranch. At first, I loved them—looked great, smooth to open, and the wood interior matched our vibe. Fast forward to now… some of the casements are a little sticky, and one of the sills swelled up after a bad winter (might be our fault for not sealing it better, not sure). I will say they do a good job keeping drafts out, and the glass hasn’t fogged at all. But man, cleaning the outside panes on the second floor is still a pain—wish I’d thought more about that.
Anyone else have Andersen windows that have been in for a while? Curious if you’ve run into similar stuff or if I just got unlucky with a couple of them. Are they holding up for you, or have you had to replace parts already?
But man, cleaning the outside panes on the second floor is still a pain—wish I’d thought more about that.
Totally relate to this. I’ve had our Andersens for about 13 years now (70s split-level here) and honestly, the outside cleaning is *still* the worst part. I tried one of those long-handled squeegee things last spring, but it’s mostly me hanging out the window and hoping I don’t drop the rag.
As for the sticky casements, mine started getting stiff around year 8 or so, especially on the north side where the weather hits hardest. Bit of WD-40 helped for a while but it’s not a forever fix. Haven’t had a sill swell, though—did you notice if the paint or finish wore off before that happened? Wondering if it’s just the wood type or maybe our installer did something different.
The draft thing is a win, though. We used to have legit breezes coming through the old aluminum frames, so anything is an upgrade. Anyone else actually gotten a repair kit from Andersen for these issues, or is it just easier to live with the quirks?
Funny, I’ve never had a sill swell either, even after a decade plus—maybe it’s just luck or the way ours were finished. I did have to touch up some paint on the bottom rails where water pooled, but nothing major. For the sticky cranks, I tried silicone spray instead of WD-40 and it seemed to last a bit longer. Has anyone actually replaced the hardware? Wondering if that’s worth it or just more hassle than it’s worth.
Replacing hardware on Andersen windows isn’t as daunting as it sounds, but whether it’s worth it really depends on what’s going wrong. I’ve worked on a handful of homes where the original cranks or locks started binding after about 10-12 years—usually in spots that saw a lot of temperature swings or humidity. Silicone spray does help, and I usually recommend it over WD-40 too, since WD-40 can attract grit over time. But if you’re finding the crank mechanisms are getting sloppy or you’re seeing visible corrosion, swapping out the operators can make a noticeable difference in how the windows function.
That said, the replacement parts aren’t always cheap. I’ve seen folks get sticker shock when they realize a single crank assembly can run $40-$60, plus your time—or labor if you’re hiring it out. The process itself isn’t too tricky if you’re handy with a screwdriver, but sometimes the old screws are stripped or the wood’s a bit swollen, and that’s where it can get fiddly. I’ve run into a few older units where the hardware was discontinued, so matching finishes wasn’t possible—just something to keep in mind if aesthetics matter.
On the sill swelling, you might just have lucked out with your install or the finish quality. I’ve noticed it’s often tied to how well the sill was sealed during installation and what kind of exposure it gets. North-facing windows with good overhangs seem to fare better in my experience. Where people get into trouble is usually deferred maintenance—paint or caulk breaks down, and water finds its way in. A little touch-up here and there goes a long way.
If your hardware’s still working, I’d probably just keep up with the lubrication and minor touch-ups. But if you’re starting to fight with the cranks every time you want fresh air, it might be worth the hassle to swap them out. It’s not a glamorous upgrade, but it beats getting frustrated every time you open a window.
Sticky cranks and swollen sills sound pretty familiar, honestly. We moved into our place about three years ago (the windows were already in, probably close to 10 years old), and I’ve had a couple that don’t open as smoothly as I’d expect, especially after a humid summer. I tried some WD-40 before reading that it’s not the best for this—wish I’d known about the silicone spray sooner.
As for the sills, one in our upstairs bathroom started to look a little warped after a rough winter. Not sure if it’s poor sealing or just the age, but it’s a pain. I’m not thrilled about the idea of having to keep up with so much maintenance on something that’s supposed to be “premium.” At the same time, they do block out drafts way better than the old aluminum ones in my parents’ house.
The cleaning thing is a hassle too. I keep thinking there’s got to be a trick I’m missing, but maybe second-story windows are just always a pain unless you spring for those fancy tilt-in styles. Not regretting them exactly, but I’m not sure they’re as set-it-and-forget-it as I’d hoped.
That warped sill sounds like a headache. I’ve run into a similar issue with our kitchen window—ended up being a mix of old caulking and just years of condensation sneaking in. Did you ever try resealing around the outside, or is it more the interior wood swelling up? Sometimes just scraping out the old sealant and running a fresh bead can make a surprising difference, but if the wood’s already started to go, it might be a bigger project.
I hear you on the cleaning too. We have the standard double-hungs (not tilt-in), and second story windows are honestly the worst for maintenance. I tried one of those telescoping squeegees last spring, but it’s pretty awkward unless you’re on a ladder—which I’m not wild about. On the plus side, even after 12 years, ours are still pretty airtight in winter. I guess that’s one tradeoff for the extra upkeep.
Curious if anyone’s tried swapping out hardware or doing minor repairs themselves? I’ve thought about replacing a crank mechanism but wasn’t sure if it’s worth the hassle or just delaying the inevitable replacement down the line...
I swapped out a crank mechanism on one of our casement windows a couple years back—honestly, it wasn’t that bad. The hardware kits are pretty straightforward, just a few screws and some patience. If the frame’s still solid, it’s a decent fix and definitely cheaper than a full replacement. That said, if you’re seeing swelling or rot, you might just be buying time. Still, I get wanting to stretch the lifespan, especially with the cost of new windows these days.