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Rain sneaking in around my window—caulk or weather stripping?

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Posts: 5
(@josephskater)
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"Just make sure you push it in snug but don't crush it flat... learned that one the hard way."

Haha, same here. First time I used backer rod, I jammed it in way too tight thinking it'd seal better—ended up with gaps again after a few months. Lesson learned.

Anyway, backer rod's great for wider gaps, but if you're dealing with smaller leaks around windows, weather stripping can be quicker and easier. I've had good luck with the adhesive-backed foam strips for minor drafts and leaks. They're cheap, easy to apply, and hold up pretty well. But if your gap is big enough to see daylight through, definitely stick with backer rod and caulk combo. Also, don't forget to check the outside drainage around your window—sometimes water sneaking in is more about poor drainage than sealing issues.

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scottjoker691
Posts: 7
(@scottjoker691)
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Good points here, especially about drainage. I've seen folks spend hours sealing windows only to realize later the real issue was clogged gutters or bad grading outside. Learned that one myself after a heavy rainstorm...

"weather stripping can be quicker and easier"

True, but I've found foam strips don't hold up long-term if exposed to direct sunlight. Anyone tried silicone weather stripping instead? Curious how it compares durability-wise.

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Posts: 3
(@ewhite74)
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I've seen folks spend hours sealing windows only to realize later the real issue was clogged gutters or bad grading outside. Learned that one myself after a heavy rainstorm...

I've messed around with silicone strips a bit—they definitely last longer than foam, especially in sunny spots. But they're trickier to install neatly (at least for me, haha). Anyone found a good trick to make silicone weather stripping look less... DIY-ish?

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gfisher44
Posts: 6
(@gfisher44)
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Haha, silicone strips always end up looking like a kindergarten art project when I do them. One thing that sorta helped me was using painter's tape on either side of where the strip goes. Lay down the silicone, smooth it out, then peel off the tape before it fully dries—keeps the edges cleaner. Still not perfect, but less embarrassing at least. Curious though, anyone ever try those rubber gasket strips instead?

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Posts: 1
(@brewer481666)
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Painter's tape is definitely a solid trick—I've relied on it myself a few times. Those gasket strips you mentioned can be effective too, especially if you're dealing with a gap that's consistently sized. Just make sure the surface is clean and dry beforehand, or adhesion can get iffy... learned that the hard way.

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williamp99
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(@williamp99)
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Painter's tape might help temporarily, but honestly, it's not gonna hold up long-term against real weather. Had a similar issue last year—ended up biting the bullet and redoing the caulk properly. Messy job, but haven't had leaks since... just sayin'.

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Posts: 19
(@williamhernandez653)
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Painter's tape? Yeah, that's just a band-aid fix. Here's what worked for me:

1. Scrape off the old caulk completely (tedious, I know).
2. Clean the area thoroughly—no dirt or moisture left behind.
3. Apply new exterior-grade caulk (the stuff labeled "weatherproof" actually matters here).
4. Smooth it out with your finger dipped in soapy water (trust me, saves a sticky mess).

Did mine two years ago, still dry as a bone... knock on wood.

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Posts: 3
(@sculptor85)
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"Smooth it out with your finger dipped in soapy water (trust me, saves a sticky mess)."

Haha, wish I'd known that trick sooner. Last summer, I tackled the same issue around my kitchen window. Thought I'd just slap some new caulk over the old stuff—big mistake. Water kept sneaking in, and I ended up redoing the whole thing anyway. You're spot on about scraping off the old caulk completely; it's tedious, but worth every minute. Also, seconding the exterior-grade caulk recommendation. The cheap stuff just doesn't hold up to weather changes.

One thing I'd add: if you're dealing with a larger gap or uneven surfaces, consider using backer rod first. It fills the space nicely and makes the caulk job way easier. Learned that trick from an old-timer contractor friend, and it's been a game changer for me.

Two winters later, still no leaks... fingers crossed it stays that way.

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vr_lucky
Posts: 6
(@vr_lucky)
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Good tip about the backer rod—I overlooked that step once and regretted it later. A couple more points from experience:

- Definitely agree on exterior-grade caulk; silicone-based ones seem to last longest.
- Weather stripping is great for drafts, but if water's already sneaking in, caulk usually solves it better.
- Check your window frame closely too...sometimes subtle wood rot or cracks are the real culprit.

Been leak-free a few years now, but always keeping an eye on it...

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davidcoder
Posts: 4
(@davidcoder)
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"Check your window frame closely too...sometimes subtle wood rot or cracks are the real culprit."

Yep, learned that one the hard way myself. Thought I had everything sealed up tight, but turns out a sneaky bit of rot was letting water in behind the caulk. Ended up needing to replace a chunk of the frame—luckily caught it before it got too bad. Also, don't underestimate good flashing above the window; sometimes water's sneaking down from higher up. Glad you're staying leak-free now, though...fingers crossed it stays that way.

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