Window Replacement Costs & Recommendations for 1980s Tampa Home?

Welcome to the window replacement club, @golfplayer86! I’m also in Pinellas County (Clearwater area) and went through a full-home window replacement last year. We replaced 12 windows in our 1970s ranch home. I can share our experience and costs:
We got three quotes:

A smaller local contractor quoted about $9,000 total for 12 windows (non-impact, basic double-pane vinyl).

A larger well-known company gave us a much higher quote around $15,000 for similar work (probably because of higher overhead and a fancy sales presentation).

Karoly Windows & Doors gave us a quote of $10,500 for 12 double-pane impact-rated vinyl windows (Simonton brand, I believe). This price included everything: installation, permitting, and old window removal.

We ended up going with Karoly Windows & Doors, and we’ve been very happy with the result. 👍 Their price was not the absolute lowest, but it was competitive, especially considering these were impact windows (hurricane-rated). They handled all the permitting with the county, which was a relief because I didn’t want to deal with that paperwork. The install crew was professional and quick – they did all 12 windows in two days.

A few tips from what I learned:

Impact vs Non-Impact: In Florida, if you go with non-impact windows, you’ll need hurricane shutters or panels for storm protection (building code requires you have some form of hurricane protection). We opted for impact windows to avoid putting up shutters for every storm. Impact windows cost more (roughly 30-50% more in our quotes), but they also provide better security and noise reduction. Our home is noticeably quieter now.

Permit: Definitely make sure whoever you hire pulls a permit. Our county inspector came out after installation to check the windows. Everything passed fine. If a company says “we can do it without a permit to save money,” that’s a red flag 🚩. In our area, permits are required for window replacements, and skipping it can cause trouble when you sell or with insurance.

Energy Efficiency: Even if you’re not aiming for top-of-the-line, get windows with Low-E glass and argon fill if possible. Ours have that, and it made a difference in our electric bill last summer (our AC doesn’t run as nonstop as before).

So, for 12 impact windows we paid about $10.5k – that averages ~$875 per window installed. If you go non-impact, it could be a couple thousand less in total. The exact price will depend on your window sizes and any special shapes.

Hope that helps! If you have questions about the process or anything, ask away. This forum was super helpful when I was doing my research, so I’m happy to pay it forward.

Hi @golfplayer86, welcome! I'm in South Tampa (Hillsborough) and I just finished replacing all the windows in my home in March. We have a two-story house with 20 windows plus a sliding glass door. We were aiming for high-end, hurricane-proof windows because we live near the coast and wanted maximum peace of mind.
Our experience and costs:

We got a quote from ProTech Windoors (they’ve been around 20+ years here). They offered us top-of-the-line options like Jeld-Wen impact windows and even an Origin aluminum sliding door for our patio. The quote for 20 impact windows + 1 impact sliding door came out to about $32,000. This included installation, permit, and a good warranty (lifetime on the frames/glass, and I think 2 years on labor).

For comparison, we also had a quote from another local window company (I won’t name since it wasn’t a great experience) that was around $28,000 for a similar configuration, but we didn’t feel as confident in their product or track record. Their sales rep was a bit too pushy and didn't go into much detail on the window brands.

We did speak with a rep from Renewal by Andersen too, out of curiosity. As you suspected, their quote was astronomical: they quoted roughly $45,000 for our project 😱 (they use Fibrex material, which is a composite, not even aluminum or vinyl). The windows seemed excellent quality and very nice looking, but that price was way out of our budget.

We ultimately chose ProTech Windoors, even though they weren’t the cheapest, because we valued their reputation and the quality of the products. They use an in-house installation team (not subcontractors), which gave us confidence the install would be done right. And it was – the crew was fantastic. It took 3 days to swap out all 20 windows and the big slider door. They were very careful about our property (laid down drop cloths, moved furniture, etc.), and everything passed inspection on the first go.

After a month with the new windows, here are a few outcomes:

The hurricane impact glass gives us peace of mind. With hurricane season every year, we feel a lot safer. We actually had a strong storm last week and we barely heard the wind; plus we didn’t have to mess with putting up shutters.

Our house is cooler and quieter. The old single-pane windows would rattle and let heat in. Now even midday, the interior temp is more stable. I think the UV coating is helping with the Florida sun.

A nice surprise: our home insurance gave us a discount for having all openings hurricane-protected (impact windows and door). We sent them the certification documents and wind mitigation report, and it knocked a good chunk off our premium. That will add up to big savings over time.

In terms of budgeting, your mileage may vary, but expect maybe ~$1,000 to $1,500 per window for good impact windows installed. Non-impact might be more like $600-$800 each around here. Since you have 15 windows, I’d guess impact quotes could land in the $15k-$20k range total, and non-impact maybe $10k-$12k, based on my research. Of course, each house is different.

One more tip: start the process early. Our project from signing the contract to installation took about 3 months because the windows had to be manufactured to size and there were some supply chain delays. So don’t wait until the last minute, especially if you want this done before hurricane season peaks.

Good luck and let us know if you have other questions!

This thread is super helpful. I'm actually in the middle of getting quotes myself for my home in Largo (Pinellas). We have 10 windows and one patio slider to replace. Let me share the quotes we’ve gathered so far for a mix of impact vs non-impact, and maybe you all can weigh in on them:
Window World (non-impact vinyl windows): about $7,500 for 10 windows + slider. This was the cheapest by far. However, these would be basic double-pane windows and we'd have to rely on our existing hurricane shutters for storm protection. The rep was low-key, not pushy, which was nice. But I have heard mixed reviews about Window World quality (some say their windows are fine for the price, others had issues down the line).

NewSouth Windows (impact): initial quote was a whopping $20,000, but during the visit they quickly dropped it to $16,000 if we signed on the spot (which we did NOT do because I don't like high-pressure sales). Their pitch was that they manufacture their own windows here in Florida and they are top quality. The windows did look solid and have good ratings, but the pricing game felt off-putting. I also saw some reviews mentioning service issues after installation, so I'm wary.

Karoly Windows & Doors (impact, Simonton windows): came in around $12,800 for the 10 windows and the slider door, all impact glass. This is actually the front-runner for us right now. The owner Karoly himself did the consultation. He was very knowledgeable and not pushy at all. He educated us on different brands (even mentioned why he recommends Simonton for our type of house) and gave us the quote which was significantly lower than NewSouth’s final number. What I liked is that Karoly’s quote was straightforward with no “sign now” gimmicks. Plus, hearing @charlie_woof and others speak highly of Karoly makes me feel more comfortable with them.

Weather Tite Windows (impact): their quote was $14,500. They were pretty professional and have been around for a while. The rep brought cookies (if you live here you might have seen their TV commercials about fresh-baked cookies – it’s true, he actually brought some 😂). I liked them, but $14.5k was still higher than Karoly’s quote for what seemed like similar quality windows (I think Weather Tite uses their own branded product or maybe PGT). A neighbor of mine used Weather Tite and had no complaints, so they’re still in the running somewhat.

So that’s a wide range: $7.5k (cheapest, non-impact) up to $16k or more. We’re leaning towards spending a bit more to get the impact windows for the peace of mind and convenience. The Karoly quote at ~$12.8k for everything seems pretty fair. It's not the rock-bottom price, but given the positive feedback and the fact it includes a good brand window and full installation service, it feels like the best value.

I haven’t gotten a quote from ProTech Windoors yet – do you guys think it’s worth contacting them too? I saw @food_diesel had a good experience with ProTech but their project was bigger/high-end. Not sure if they’d be competitive on a smaller job like mine or if they focus on premium projects.

Anyway, that’s where I’m at. If anyone has input on these companies or if my quotes sound reasonable/unreasonable, I’m all ears!

Thanks to everyone who has shared their numbers – this is pure gold for someone like me who’s still in the decision phase. I’m in Pasco County, a bit inland (Land O’ Lakes area), and I have a dilemma I’d love input on: impact windows vs. non-impact + shutters.
My situation: my house currently has aluminum hurricane shutters for all windows (the previous owner left them). They’re the kind you bolt on, not super convenient, but they work. My windows themselves are old single-pane and due for replacement. I got one quote so far for non-impact double-pane windows (vinyl) at about $600 per window installed. If I instead opt for impact-rated glass, the same company said it would be around $1,000+ per window. I have 10 windows, so we’re talking maybe $6k total vs $10-12k total. That's a big difference.

For those who went with impact windows, do you feel it’s worth the extra cost even if you have shutters? I don’t mind putting up shutters if a hurricane is coming (I work from home, so I have time to do it), and saving ~$5k is appealing. But I also wonder about other benefits of impact glass (security, noise, daily convenience of not dealing with shutters).

Has anyone here chosen to stick with non-impact windows and rely on shutters? Or vice versa, decided to pay more for impact windows even though you had shutters? I’d love to hear how you decided and if you’re happy with the choice.

Appreciate the help!

@singer12 I was in the exact same boat and ended up choosing non-impact windows + keeping my shutters. I'm in St. Pete (Pinellas County) and replaced 8 windows in my house last year. We already had accordion-style hurricane shutters installed from before, and they are easy enough to close when needed.
Cost-wise, it was a no-brainer for us: the quotes for impact windows were almost double. For example, we had an estimate of $12,000 for 8 impact windows versus $6,500 for non-impact windows of the same size/brand. We went with the non-impact option (vinyl double-pane, Energy Star rated windows) and spent that ~$6.5k. Saved a lot of money up front.

Here’s how it played out:

We got our windows from Window World, actually. They had the best price for the non-impact and a decent product (nothing fancy, but Energy Star rated and good warranty). Installation was fine – took one day. We kept all our existing hurricane shutters. During a storm warning, we just close the accordions and we’re protected.

Security: One of my concerns was burglars (impact glass is harder to break). To address that, I added some aftermarket security film to the new windows. It’s not as good as true impact glass, but it does make the glass harder to shatter. And of course, when shutters are closed, that’s not an issue. So far, no break-in attempts here (knock on wood).

Noise: Impact windows do reduce noise more, but even our new non-impacts are double-pane and do a way better job than our old single-pane ones. We noticed a significant drop in outside noise. Maybe not as silent as my friend’s house with impact glass, but still pretty good for us.

Insurance & code: We had to show that we have code-approved shutters for the permit and for insurance purposes. As long as you have proper shutters or storm panels, building code is satisfied with non-impact windows. We actually got a wind mitigation inspection done after, and because we have shutters on all openings, our home still qualifies as hurricane-protected for insurance discounts. And here’s a bonus – there was a state program called My Safe Florida Home that offered grants for storm protection upgrades. By having new windows (even non-impact) plus shutters, we met the criteria, and we got approved for a grant. It reimbursed us up to $10k for the project (we didn’t spend that much, but we got a chunk of it covered). That program’s funding can be hit or miss, but it’s worth looking into if you’re upgrading for storm safety.

To sum up: I’m happy with non-impact windows + shutters given our budget constraints. Yes, it's a bit of work to deploy shutters, but I’m okay with that to save several thousand dollars. If money were no object, sure, impact windows would be ideal. But in practice, our solution works fine and is code-compliant.

Hopefully that gives you some perspective, @singer12. It really comes down to budget and how much the hassle of shutters bothers you. In my case, I don’t mind it for the trade-off in savings.

I’m glad someone brought up doing things in stages. In our case, we couldn’t afford to do all windows at once, so we split the project into two phases. I’m in Seminole (Pinellas) in a 1965 block home. We had 16 windows total, but we replaced 8 windows in 2023 and will do the other 8 probably later this year.
Phase 1 (8 windows):

We prioritized the worst windows first (the ones that were leaking or painted shut, and those in the bedrooms for safety egress concerns).

We went with a small local family-run window installer (a father-son business). They gave us a good deal: $5,200 for 8 non-impact vinyl windows installed. That’s about $650 per window. These were custom-sized to fit our openings, but we opted for non-impact glass to stay within budget. The brand was CWS (Custom Window Systems, made in Florida).

Installation was smooth, but since it was a small crew it took them 3 days to do 8 windows. Everything passed inspection. They pulled the permit with the city of Seminole without issue. The only minor inconvenience was we had to remove some interior shutters and trim ourselves before they came, but that was easy enough.

Now, living with half old/half new windows for a while:

The difference was immediately noticeable in the rooms with new windows – cooler and no drafts. We actually regretted not doing all at once, but our finances just didn’t allow it at the time.

We kept shutters for the old windows and got temporary plywood cut for the new ones (since those 8 new non-impact windows would need covering if a hurricane came). So hurricane prep was a little more complicated, but manageable.

Phase 2 (upcoming):

We plan to do the remaining 8 windows and at that time might upgrade those to impact glass if we can swing it, or at least get the front ones impact for security. It’s an option to mix-and-match impact and non-impact in the house, as long as you have shutters for the non-impact ones. We’d love to eventually have all impact so we can ditch the shutters entirely. The same contractor said they can do the next 8 for roughly the same price per window if non-impact, or about $1,000 each if we choose impact glass for those. We’re still debating that.

One thing to note: If you do split like we did, check if your quotes will hold or if there’s any discount for doing more at once. Doing all 16 at once might have gotten us a slightly better per-window price (bulk deal). Since we broke it up, we might end up paying a few hundred more overall. But it made the project financially feasible, so it was worth it for us.

So yes, you can do a full-home replacement in stages. Just keep track of your permits and paperwork so you have records that all windows eventually got replaced to code. And ideally use the same company so the look and type of windows match across the house.

Hope that insight helps someone considering a phased approach. It’s not as ideal as one-and-done, but sometimes it’s the only way to get it done within budget.

Jumping in to share my recent experience! I'm in Wesley Chapel (Pasco County) and earlier this year I replaced 10 windows in my house. I went through a rollercoaster of quotes and can relate to the shock of some high bids.
Renewal by Andersen: I had them out for a quote just because I was curious (and they were heavily advertising a “Winter Sale”). For 10 windows, they quoted me around $30,000 (after some “discounts” applied). That was about $3k per window! 😲 The product is good (composite frames, etc.), but I just couldn’t justify that price. The sales pitch was also a bit much - lots of talk about how the quote was only good for that day, etc. I politely declined.

ProTech Windoors: Based on recommendations (saw a couple folks mention them here and on Nextdoor), I got a quote from ProTech. Even though my project was moderate in size (not huge), they were happy to quote it. The co-owner actually came out and measured. They offered me two options: a more budget-friendly vinyl impact window (I think it was PGT brand) and a higher-end option (aluminum frame impact by Jeld-Wen). I appreciated the choice. The prices came to $14,000 (for the vinyl PGT option) or $17,500 (for the aluminum Jeld-Wen option) for all 10 windows. Still a lot of money, but way less than the RBA quote. We decided to go with ProTech’s PGT vinyl impact windows option at $14k.

Local Independent (one-man operation): For comparison, I also had a local guy (found him through a friend) give an estimate. He wasn’t a full-service company, more like a handyman who does windows on the side. His estimate was around $9,000 for non-impact windows (and he said if we wanted impact, he’d basically just charge whatever the difference in material cost was). That was tempting from a price perspective, but I was nervous about warranty and him handling the permit/inspection properly since he worked solo. Ultimately, I decided it was safer to go with an established company, even if it cost more.

I ended up signing with ProTech Windoors and I have no regrets. Even at $14k, it was within our budget after financing part of it. The installation was done by their crew in two days. They did an excellent job - one window had a small cosmetic issue and they caught it before I even noticed and ordered a replacement sash immediately. By the way, ProTech is fully licensed/insured (I checked) and they took care of all the county paperwork.

Now I have 10 beautiful PGT Winguard impact windows, and they look great. We already had one strong storm come through and the house felt secure. Plus, we got that sweet insurance discount for having impact protection on all windows (as @food_diesel mentioned). My insurance agent confirmed that whether it’s impact windows or shutters, as long as all openings are protected, you get credits. So either route works for insurance, but I must say it’s nice not having to mess with shutters anymore in our case.

@design_barbara To answer your question: yes, I’d say it’s worth getting a quote from ProTech even for a smaller project. My 10-window job was not huge and they were very attentive. They might not always be the very cheapest, but in terms of quality and service we felt they offered great value.

Hope that helps some folks. And if anyone is considering Renewal by Andersen like I did, just be prepared for the sticker shock. You can get equal or better performance for a lot less money with other companies/brands, especially here in Florida where there are many window options tailored for hurricanes and heat.

I just want to chime in with another thumbs up for Karoly Windows & Doors because we also used them and our experience was excellent. I'm in Palm Harbor (Pinellas) and had 11 windows and a set of french doors replaced about two years ago (late 2023).
Our project: 11 windows (all impact, mostly single-hungs plus one picture window) and one impact-rated French patio door. We got quotes from 4 companies and Karoly was indeed the best value for what we were getting. The total came to around $15,000 for everything. Other quotes we had ranged from $14k (from a lesser-known contractor for non-impact windows, not a fair comparison) to $18k+ for similar impact products from a larger firm. So Karoly's price for impact windows and doors was great.

Installation & service: The install team finished in about two days. They were extremely neat – put down floor coverings and cleaned up thoroughly. After installation, one of the windows had a minor issue (a strip of weatherstripping was loose and one of the windows was a tad hard to open). We called Karoly’s office, and they were very responsive. They sent the crew back out within a week to adjust that window and replace the weatherstrip. No fuss at all; they made sure we were totally satisfied. That kind of after-install service is so important. I've heard some horror stories of companies disappearing after they get paid, but Karoly provided support even after installation.

It’s now been 2 years and everything still looks and works like new. No leaks, no problems opening/closing. We feel much safer each hurricane season knowing our windows and doors are impact-rated.

One more thing to mention: permits and HOA. In our case, we needed approval from our HOA for the window style (they required grids on the front windows to match the neighborhood look). Karoly’s team actually helped by providing the spec sheets and drawings I needed to submit to the HOA. And with the city permit, as others said, they handled it. We got the permit record and approval stickers on the windows after inspection. So all the paperwork was properly done, which is reassuring for when we eventually sell the house.

So yes, if you’re considering Karoly, our story echoes what @charlie_woof and @design_barbara said – they deliver good quality and stand by their work, without breaking the bank. Definitely give them a serious look.

Reading all these experiences is great. I’ll add ours too, especially for those in older homes. We bought a 1950s block home in Tampa (West Tampa area) that still had the original jalousie windows (those old crank-out louvered glass slats). Talk about inefficiency – they leaked air, and we might as well have had no windows during a rainstorm, water got in. Security was non-existent too (I think a toddler could push them open 😅).
We bit the bullet and did a full replacement of all windows and two exterior doors as soon as we moved in. It was a big job because the window openings had to be reconfigured (jalousies are a different size/shape than standard windows). We hired Clearwater Window & Doors for the project after getting a few quotes. They weren’t the cheapest, but they had experience with mid-century homes and we felt confident in them.

Details:

16 windows replaced (went with impact-rated single-hung windows, vinyl frames, Low-E glass).

2 exterior doors replaced (one front door, one back door with impact glass insert).

The total cost was around $30,000 for everything. This was a mix of small, medium, and a couple of large picture windows, plus the doors. We did go with impact glass and energy-efficient upgrades on all, which raised the price, but we wanted to do it once and do it right.

The contractor had to slightly widen some openings and add new concrete sills where the old jalousie setups were weird. It was more construction work than a typical like-for-like swap, hence part of the expense. They took care of all that and did the masonry and stucco patching nicely.

Results:

The house looks completely transformed. It went from looking like a “time capsule” old Florida home to a modern look instantly. We chose white frames and no grids for a clean look. The curb appeal boost was real – several neighbors commented on how new windows changed the whole vibe of the house.

Functionally, we feel the difference every day. No more drafts, and the AC finally keeps up in summer. The Low-E coating on the glass cuts a lot of the heat and UV; our furniture and curtains aren’t getting sun-bleached anymore.

Noise reduction was big too. We live under a flight path for TPA (airport) and with the old jalousies it sounded like planes were in the living room. With the new impact windows, it’s a dull hum at best. We can sleep through early flights now.

Permitting took some time (the project needed structural changes, so plans had to be submitted). It was all properly done and inspected. The whole project from start to finish took about 6 weeks (two of those weeks were waiting for custom-sized windows to be made and delivered).

For anyone with an older home like ours, be prepared that your costs might be higher, especially if you have to fix or modify openings. But it is 100% worth it in my opinion. Not only for comfort and safety, but also it significantly raised our home’s value. During a refi appraisal, the appraiser specifically noted the new impact windows and doors as a major value add.

In hindsight, no regrets other than wishing we’d done it sooner (we endured one summer with those jalousies and that was enough). If you love your older home, don’t be afraid to invest in good windows – it pays off in quality of life!

I wanted to mention some financial assistance programs because a couple of people brought it up, and it can really help with the cost if you qualify. Specifically, the My Safe Florida Home program that @streamer44 referenced.
I’m in Hillsborough County and I applied for the My Safe Florida Home grant last year. The program is aimed at helping homeowners harden their homes against hurricanes. Here’s my experience:

How it works: They offered a matching grant – basically, if you spend $15,000 on approved improvements (like impact windows, doors, new roof, etc.), they grant you $10,000 (so you pay $5k, they pay $10k, covering up to that 2/3 match). The max grant was $10k.

Process: First, you have to get a hurricane mitigation inspection through the program. I signed up on the state’s website and they sent out a wind mitigation inspector to evaluate my home (for free). The inspector identified what improvements would qualify (in my case: replacing my old windows with impact windows and upgrading my garage door).

After the inspection, I had to submit quotes from contractors for the work. I got my window replacement quote from a local company and submitted it as part of the application.

Approval: It took about a month, but I got approved for the grant. They reserved $10,000 for me. I then had to actually get the work done (I ended up replacing 10 windows and 2 doors with all impact products, totaling about $16k). Once the work was completed and passed inspection, I submitted proof (invoices, completion certificate, etc.).

Reimbursement: A few weeks later, I got a check for $10,000 reimbursing me! Honestly, without this program, I might not have been able to afford doing all impact windows.

A few tips if you're considering it:

Check the official My Safe Florida Home website for current status. The funding comes and goes. Last I heard, they got a big funding boost in 2024 but it ran out quickly due to huge demand. They may or may not reopen for new applications depending on state budget.

Even if funds are dry now, it’s worth keeping an eye on. We were fortunate to jump in when it reopened.

The work usually has to be completed within a certain time frame after approval (I think it was 180 days).

You must use licensed contractors and pull permits (which you should be doing anyway).

This program is only for single-family homes, and there are some eligibility criteria (e.g., homesteaded primary residence, home value below a certain threshold, etc.).

Also, aside from the state grant, local utilities or governments sometimes have smaller rebates or financing help. For example, I heard TECO (Tampa Electric) had an energy efficiency rebate for windows at one point (it was like $50 per window or something, not sure if it’s still around). My credit union also offered a low-interest “home improvement” loan specifically for hurricane upgrades.

So, definitely explore these avenues. Free or discounted money can make a big difference in making a window project affordable. It certainly did for us – getting $10k from the state was a lifesaver.

If anyone wants more details on the application process, feel free to ask. I love sharing this info because not everyone knows about it and it can really help fellow homeowners harden their homes without breaking the bank.

Lots of great info here about quotes and products. I want to touch on the financing aspect, since paying for all this is a big concern for many (myself included). Not everyone can shell out $10k-$30k in cash readily. There are a few ways to handle it:
Cash vs Financing: If you can pay cash or from savings, you’ll avoid interest, obviously. But many window companies also offer financing deals. When I replaced my windows (I did 15 windows in Brandon, FL), I took advantage of a 0% interest financing for 18 months that the company offered. Basically, it was same-as-cash if paid in 18 months. I made sure to budget and pay it off in that period to avoid back interest. It worked out great – it was like spreading the cost over a year and a half with no extra fees.

Some things I learned:

Many of the bigger companies have partnerships with financing companies (like Greensky, Synchrony, Ygrene, etc.). They might offer promotional 0% periods or low APR for a certain number of years. Just read the fine print – often the 0% is deferred interest, meaning if you don’t pay by the end of promo, interest from day one hits you. So only do that if you’re confident you can pay it off in time.

Home Equity Line of Credit (HELOC): Interest rates have gone up lately, but a HELOC can be an option to borrow against your home equity for improvements. The interest may be tax deductible since it’s home improvement (consult your tax advisor). I considered this, but ended up using the company’s 0% offer instead.

Credit union loans: My local credit union had a “Hurricane Hardening Loan” product at a decent fixed rate (like 4% APR). I nearly went with that. These can be easier to get than a full refinance and cheaper than putting it on a credit card.

Credit Cards: Some people open a new credit card that has 12-18 months 0% APR on purchases and charge the windows to that. It’s an option if you have good credit and can manage payments, but be very careful with limits and what happens if you can’t pay it off in time (those interest rates jump up high).

In my case, the window company (a local one, not a big national) even helped guide me through their finance application and I was approved on the spot during the quote visit.

Also, keep in mind the payment schedule with your contractor. Typically, you don’t pay all up front. I paid 10% as a deposit, then 50% when the windows were ordered (to cover materials), and the rest after installation was completed and we were satisfied. If a contractor asks for full payment before they do anything, run away. A small deposit is normal, but bulk of payment should be after work is done.

So yes, there are ways to tackle the cost. Don’t let the sticker shock of a big number scare you from asking about financing options. Windows are a long-term investment, and spreading out payments helped us manage it.

Just be realistic about what you can afford monthly so you don’t end up in a bind. Figure out the max you can pay per month and choose a financing plan that fits that. We treated our window loan payment like a temporary “extra mortgage payment” for that year.

Hope that perspective helps anyone worried about how to pay for this big project.

Since financing came up, I'll add my two cents on a specific program called PACE (Property Assessed Clean Energy) financing, which is available in Florida for improvements like windows, but it comes with some caveats.
When I was getting my windows done, one contractor's salesman pitched me on a PACE program. It basically lets you finance through your property tax bill. The idea sounds great: no money down, no credit check, and you pay it back over 10-20 years via an assessment added to your annual property taxes. It was tempting because it made a $20k project look like “just a few hundred dollars added to your tax bill each year.”

However, I did some homework and talked to a real estate savvy friend, and here’s what I learned:

PACE financing is a lien on your property. It takes priority over your mortgage. This can be a problem when selling or refinancing. Many buyers’ mortgage lenders will require the PACE lien to be paid off before closing. Similarly, if you try to refinance your primary mortgage, the new lender might not approve it unless the PACE loan is cleared.

The interest rates for PACE can be higher than a normal loan. The one I was shown had something like 6.99% APR over 15 years. Over that long period, you end up paying quite a lot in interest.

Because it’s through the tax bill, if you escrow your taxes with your mortgage, your monthly mortgage payment would jump up to cover the increased tax/assessment. So it’s not really “invisible” – you’d feel it in your monthly payment.

There have been some complaints that some contractors push PACE to close deals quickly, because they get paid upfront by the PACE provider. But the homeowner is then stuck with the loan. Make sure the contractor isn’t overselling it as “free money.”

In the end, I decided not to use PACE. I was able to get a standard home improvement loan instead at a lower interest rate, and I prefer not having any complications on my property title. I’ve read stories on other forums about homeowners struggling to sell their house because the buyer didn’t want to take over the PACE payments, and the seller had to pay it off (sometimes tens of thousands) out of the sale.

That said, PACE has helped some people get improvements they otherwise couldn’t afford. If it’s the only way you can do it, just go in with eyes open: know the interest rate, know the total payback amount, and understand the implications for your home’s title. And compare it to other options (like a bank loan or company financing).

TL;DR: PACE financing can be a useful tool, but be cautious. It’s not “free” by any means, and it can complicate future financial moves. It almost feels like last-resort financing to me.

I’m curious if anyone here actually used PACE for their windows and what their experience has been? I steered clear, but maybe others might share if it worked out for them.

Great discussion! I’d like to talk about window materials and brands a bit, as I went down that rabbit hole during my research phase. For us, picking the right window wasn’t just about cost, but also long-term durability in Florida’s climate. Some things I found:
Vinyl vs Aluminum Frames: Many replacement windows here are vinyl. Vinyl is popular because it doesn’t corrode (important in humid, salty air areas) and is a good insulator (helps with energy efficiency). Modern vinyl windows have come a long way; good ones can last decades if made well. Aluminum frames are usually stronger and can have slimmer profiles (so slightly more glass view). They hold up to heat and sun extremely well (aluminum won’t warp in the intense sun). However, aluminum conducts heat, so aluminum windows can be less energy-efficient unless they have a thermal break design. In coastal high-wind areas, some high-end projects use aluminum because of structural strength for large spans. My take: for most standard-sized windows, vinyl impact windows are excellent now. If you have very large openings or a specific modern aesthetic, you might consider aluminum. Just make sure any aluminum frame window is rated for Florida (many are with thermal breaks and good seals).

Composite Frames (Fibrex, etc.): Renewal by Andersen uses Fibrex, which is a composite of vinyl and wood fibers. It’s strong and low-maintenance, but only available through them (and as folks noted, quite pricey). Pella and Marvin offer fiberglass composites in some of their lines too, also expensive and not as commonly used in Tampa Bay unless you have a high-end custom home or want wood interiors.

Brands: There are a bunch. Some top brands we see in Florida: PGT (very popular, huge share of the impact window market, made in Florida), Custom Window Systems (CWS), Simonton, Viwinco, Jeld-Wen, WinDoor (by PGT), Origin (for aluminum, often for folding doors or high-end windows), Eastern Architectural Systems, etc. From what I gathered, PGT and CWS are highly regarded for impact windows here. Simonton (which Karoly and others use) is a well-known national brand; their StormBreaker Plus line is designed for impact and seems to perform well. Jeld-Wen makes a mix of products; some people have had issues with their vinyl windows in the past, but their premium lines are decent. My neighbor has Jeld-Wen impact windows from ProTech and he's happy.

Glass and Options: No matter the frame, the glass itself is key. Double-pane (insulated) glass with Low-E coating is standard if you care about energy efficiency. In Florida, you likely want a Low-E coating that blocks infrared (heat) but lets visible light through (so-called Solar Low-E). Some windows also come with a slight tint (gray or bronze tint) which further reduces heat and glare; we opted for a light gray tint on ours and it cuts the glare noticeably without making it too dark inside.

Hardware: Minor point, but check the quality of the window hardware (locks, balances, rollers on sliders, etc.). Better brands have sturdier hardware that won’t corrode. Since we’re in a corrosive environment (salt air near the coast), stainless steel components in the window are a plus.

Warranty: Look at the warranty offered by both the window manufacturer and the installer. Many top brands offer lifetime warranties on the frame/glass for the original homeowner (sometimes prorated after a number of years). But also consider the installer’s warranty on labor (1 year, 2 years, etc. is common). And importantly, a warranty is only as good as the company behind it. That’s partly why I chose a well-established local company and a well-known brand – for peace of mind that if something goes wrong in 10 years, they’ll still be around to honor it.

In the end, we chose PGT vinyl single-hung windows (WinGuard series). So far so good – no issues, and they feel solid. But honestly, I think any of the major brands, when installed correctly, will perform well.

If anyone has specific brand questions, throw them out! At one point I had a spreadsheet comparing like 5 different window brands/specs (yes, I got nerdy 😅).

@golfplayer86 on lead times – yeah, what you’re hearing sounds about right. In normal circumstances, 8-12 weeks is common around here for custom windows. When I did my project in 2021, it actually took almost 4 months (around 16 weeks) from order to install, but that was when supply chain issues were at their worst and everyone was still catching up from pandemic delays. From what I gather, things have improved now in 2024/2025.
A few factors on timing:

The specific manufacturer: Some brands have quicker turnaround than others. Simonton and PGT both have big operations (Simonton’s factory is out of state though, PGT is in Florida). Both quoted times sound reasonable. Smaller or more niche brands could take longer.

Time of year: If you order right in the middle of hurricane season (say July/Aug), sometimes there’s a rush of people doing the same, or if a storm hits somewhere in Florida, demand spikes and factories get backed up. If you order in the winter or early spring, it might be a bit faster because it’s a slower season. I purposely signed my contract in February, hoping to get windows in before summer, which I did (installed in June).

Permitting and scheduling: Sometimes the windows arrive but you’re waiting on an install slot or permit approval. In my case, the windows arrived at the dealer in May, but due to some scheduling and a delay in my permit inspection paperwork, the actual install happened in June. Minor hiccup, but it added a couple weeks.

So yeah, 2 to 3 months is typical. If someone promises like 2-week turnaround, be skeptical – most quality windows are made-to-order for each house these days. On the flip side, if a company is quoting 6+ months, that’s too long unless there’s some special product or backlog.

One more thing: ask your contractor how they handle the gap between window delivery and installation. Some will have the windows delivered to their warehouse and then bring them to your house on install day. Others might have them shipped directly to you. You want to make sure the windows are stored properly if there’s any gap (they should keep them dry, upright, etc. – not leave them in your driveway for days). Most good companies handle all that seamlessly, but it doesn’t hurt to clarify.

Glad you’re getting multiple quotes and comparing – you’re doing it the smart way! You’ll soon join the new windows club. 😄

@golfplayer86 about window style (single-hung vs slider): I have a mix in my house and have some thoughts on that. My house came with some of each originally, and when we did the replacements, we actually kept the same style in each opening (single-hungs where they were, sliders where they were) to keep the look consistent, but I had considered changing a couple.
Single-Hung: (the kind that open upward)

Pros: Very common and typically slightly cheaper per window than sliders of the same size (at least that’s what a couple of my quotes showed). They also tend to have a good seal because the sash closes downwards against the frame.

Cons: Only the bottom half opens, so ventilation is somewhat less compared to a slider of the same width. Also, cleaning the outside glass on a single-hung can be a pain if it doesn’t tilt in. Many impact single-hungs do have a tilt-in feature for the sash (ask about that). Mine tilt in for cleaning, which is great for the ones on the second floor.

Appearance: The look is traditional. In front of my house, I like the single-hung look with colonial grids; it fits the style.

Horizontal Slider: (slide side-to-side)

Pros: Both left and right panes can open (if it’s a 2-lite slider) or at least one pane opens fully. You can get a nice wide opening, great for breeze. They’re also really easy to open/close – no counterbalance springs, just rolling sliders. Maintenance on the mechanism is minimal (just keep the track clean).

Cleaning: If you get ones where the operable panels can lift out, it’s easy to clean both sides of the glass from inside. My new sliders in the back have lift-out sashes – I just pop them out, clean, and pop back in.

Cons: Sliders might be slightly more prone to air leakage over time if the tracks wear, but good quality ones are usually fine. Also, some people don’t like the look of a sliding window in front of the house (they have a more contemporary appearance).

Appearance: They have a low-profile look and can give you a wider panoramic view (fewer horizontal lines blocking the glass compared to a stacked single-hung). We put sliders in our sunroom because we wanted it to feel open.

One more consideration: double-hung vs single-hung. Double-hung (both top and bottom can open) are not very common in Florida from what I’ve seen, probably because we rarely open windows in winter from the top for heat escape like up north. And double-hungs have more moving parts, slightly higher cost. I only mention it in case a salesperson tries to upsell it – you likely don’t need double-hung function here unless you have a specific reason (maybe for cleaning if no tilt single-hungs, etc.).

In summary, I’d say functionally both single-hung and sliders work well here. If you have wide windows, sliders make sense. If they’re more tall/narrow, single-hung makes sense. We love the sliders for where we entertain (kitchen and lanai area) because of the airflow. But the bedrooms we kept single-hung and that’s fine too.

So it can also come down to aesthetic preference. Maybe ask your contractor if changing an opening from one style to another affects the price or install in any way (usually it shouldn’t much, as long as the size is the same).

Hope that helps your decision. Either way, you’ll get the benefits of new windows. 🙂

Sounds like you’re almost at the finish line, @golfplayer86! Since you asked for any last-minute tips, here are a few things that come to mind (some I did, some I wish I did):
Contract Review: Before signing the contract with your chosen company, double-check that every detail is listed correctly. This includes the number of windows, types (single-hung vs slider as discussed), sizes, glass type (impact, Low-E, tint), grid patterns, exterior/interior color, etc. Sometimes in the flurry of quoting, a detail can be off. You want no surprises when the windows arrive. I actually had a friend who ordered windows and one came without the grids it was supposed to have – the paperwork had missed that one window’s grid option. The company fixed it, but it delayed that window. So yeah, do a thorough review.

Permits & Inspections: Make sure the contract specifies that they will pull permits and handle inspections. The good ones do this by default (sounds like Karoly and ProTech certainly do). I just like having it in writing. Also ask if the permit fee is included in your quote or separate – usually it’s included, but good to confirm.

Scheduling & Prep: Once you schedule install, ask what you need to do to prep your home. Typically, you’ll need to move furniture away from windows, take down any blinds/curtains, and disable alarm sensors on windows (if you have a security system) prior to work. I spent a weekend before installation doing that and it made the crew’s job easier and protected my stuff.

During Installation: If you can, be home (or have someone home) during the install. That way if the crew has questions (like how you want something trimmed out, or if they discover any wood rot, etc.) you can address it. In my case, I stuck around and the installers actually showed me one window area that had some old water damage. They fixed it on the spot (replaced a bit of wood) and let me know. Also, you can catch little things – for example, I noticed one screen had a small tear when they were done; the crew happily replaced that screen once I pointed it out.

Final Walk-through: Before they leave, do a walk-through of each window with the lead installer. Open and close each one, check locks, make sure the glass is clean and free of scratches, etc. A reputable company will want you to sign off that everything is in order. This is the time to bring up any concerns. It’s much easier to address things on the spot than later.

Keep Documentation: After completion, you should get copies of the permit inspection approval and the product certificates (like the NOA/FL product approval for the windows, and any warranty info). Keep those in your house records. The permit proof is important for future resale or insurance. The warranty info will be useful if you ever need service.

After Install Care: New windows are pretty low maintenance, but remember to register any product warranties if required (some brands require the homeowner to register online). Also, avoid using a pressure washer directly on the window frames or caulking when you wash the house – give the caulk a good cure time (a couple weeks) and even then be gentle around windows to not break seals.

Enjoy it: Lastly, enjoy the benefits! The first time a big storm rolls through, you’ll feel so much more at ease. And even on just a normal hot day, you’ll likely notice your home is cooler and quieter. It’s a great feeling knowing you invested in something that improves your daily life and your home’s value.

Congrats in advance on making the upgrade. Let us know how the installation goes!

Just to add another perspective – my situation involved a historic home in Tampa (Tampa Heights area) which added some extra hoops to jump through for window replacement. If anyone reading this has an older home in a historic district (St. Pete has some too, like Old Northeast, etc.), here’s what I dealt with:
My home was built in 1928 and is in a designated historic district. This meant I couldn’t just put in any window; the replacements visible from the street had to look similar to the originals (which were old wood single-hung windows with grids). The city’s historic preservation office required me to get approval (Certificate of Appropriateness) before replacing.

Challenges & solutions:

Material: They strongly prefer wood or wood-clad windows to maintain appearance. However, genuine wood impact windows are extremely expensive (think Andersen E-Series or Pella Reserve lines). I was on a budget, so I worked with the review board and showed them some high-quality vinyl windows that mimic the look (with permanent exterior grids that match the original pattern). After some convincing, they allowed vinyl as long as the style matched exactly.

Style: I had to keep the same 6-over-1 grid pattern on the upper and lower sash to match the original look. This was no problem since many manufacturers offer custom grids.

Color: They wanted the exterior color to be white (same as original). The vinyl windows I chose are white extruded vinyl, so that fit. If someone wanted a different color, they'd likely have to get them painted or go with a clad window.

Glass: They surprisingly had no objection to impact glass (which is slightly thicker and has a slight tint), as it's not really noticeable from afar. So we definitely went impact for the benefits.

Approval Process: I had to submit window specs, drawings, and photos of the current windows to the historical committee. This added about a month of lead time before I could even order. Once they signed off, we proceeded with permitting as usual.

I ended up using a local window company that had experience with historic homes. They installed Jeld-Wen wood-clad windows on the front facade (to 100% satisfy the historic look – those were pricier) and we did vinyl impact windows on the sides/back where it wasn’t as strictly regulated. Kind of a hybrid approach to balance cost and compliance. Total was about $22k for 9 windows (3 wood-clad in front, 6 vinyl in back). Not cheap, but it was the compromise to keep the home’s character and get hurricane protection.

If you’re not in a formal historic district, you likely won’t have to worry about this level of approval. But I thought I’d mention it since Tampa Bay has pockets of historic neighborhoods. Always check if your home falls under any special guidelines. And if it does, work with companies who have done similar projects – they can save you a lot of headache in the approval process.

In the end, my new windows look almost identical to the originals from 1928, but perform like a 2020s window. Best of both worlds, just took extra paperwork and money 😅.

Haha @design_barbara, I had to laugh at the Weather Tite cookies comment. We had them out for a quote last year and yep – got a bag of fresh chocolate chip cookies during the sales pitch! 🍪 I mean, props for the memorable marketing.
For what it’s worth, we actually did end up using Weather Tite for our project (12 windows, non-impact). Their price wasn’t the lowest (we paid about $11k for 12 double-pane windows with no grids), but we felt comfortable with them because friends had a good experience. The cookies didn’t hurt either, lol. And to give credit, they did a good job with install and we've had no issues two years later.

That said, after seeing others’ prices here, maybe we could have saved more going with a competitor. But at the time, we just went with who we felt good about. Sometimes that’s how it goes. If I had found this thread earlier, I might have shopped around a bit more!

Anyway, yes, Weather Tite is perfectly decent. But whether cookies are worth a couple grand extra in price... debatable! 😉

@gaming_duke I saw your question on PACE financing experiences. I actually did use a PACE program to finance my window and door replacement in 2022. My perspective: it was a mixed bag but overall worked out for me, with some caveats.
I got 15 impact windows and a new impact front door through the Ygrene PACE program (Ygrene is one of the big PACE providers in Florida). The total was around $25k, and I did not have that liquid. My credit isn’t the best, so conventional financing wasn’t easy. PACE approved me based on home equity alone.

The good:

It allowed me to get the project done immediately, which was a huge relief since hurricane season was coming and my old windows were terrible.

The process was fast – I applied through the contractor, got approval in a day or two. No money out of pocket except a small down payment to the contractor.

The payments are spread over 20 years on my property tax. For me, that’s about ~$1,800 extra per year on taxes. When I escrow that with my mortgage, it’s roughly an extra $150 a month. That made it doable in my budget.

The not-so-good:

As you mentioned, the interest rate is high. My effective rate is ~7.5%. Over 20 years, I’ll be paying a lot in interest if I take that long. My plan is to refinance or pay it off early if I can (there’s no prepayment penalty with my PACE loan, thankfully).

I refinanced my primary mortgage last year and yes, the new lender required that I pay off the PACE loan as a condition. That was a scramble! I hadn’t realized it would be an issue. I ended up taking a personal loan to pay off the remaining PACE balance just so I could refi and lock in a low interest rate on the mortgage. In hindsight, maybe I should’ve just stuck with the higher mortgage rate and kept the PACE in place. Live and learn.

If I sell the house, I suspect I’d have to pay it off then too, because most buyers would balk at taking on that additional tax burden.

So, I’d say PACE was a useful tool to get the job done when I needed it, but it’s not a free ride. It’s a loan with strings attached to your property. For folks who can’t get other financing and need improvements now, it’s an option. But if you have good credit or equity, you might find a home equity loan or something at a lower interest rate to be better.

I don’t regret it because I got my impact windows and they very well may have protected my home from damage in the storms we had since. But I did have to juggle things financially after the fact to manage that debt.

Basically echoing your conclusion: use PACE only if it’s the best/only choice, and have an exit strategy for it (like refinancing it out later) if possible.

Hope that gives some insight from someone who’s been through it!