I wanted to mention some financial assistance programs because a couple of people brought it up, and it can really help with the cost if you qualify. Specifically, the My Safe Florida Home program that @streamer44 referenced.
I’m in Hillsborough County and I applied for the My Safe Florida Home grant last year. The program is aimed at helping homeowners harden their homes against hurricanes. Here’s my experience:
How it works: They offered a matching grant – basically, if you spend $15,000 on approved improvements (like impact windows, doors, new roof, etc.), they grant you $10,000 (so you pay $5k, they pay $10k, covering up to that 2/3 match). The max grant was $10k.
Process: First, you have to get a hurricane mitigation inspection through the program. I signed up on the state’s website and they sent out a wind mitigation inspector to evaluate my home (for free). The inspector identified what improvements would qualify (in my case: replacing my old windows with impact windows and upgrading my garage door).
After the inspection, I had to submit quotes from contractors for the work. I got my window replacement quote from a local company and submitted it as part of the application.
Approval: It took about a month, but I got approved for the grant. They reserved $10,000 for me. I then had to actually get the work done (I ended up replacing 10 windows and 2 doors with all impact products, totaling about $16k). Once the work was completed and passed inspection, I submitted proof (invoices, completion certificate, etc.).
Reimbursement: A few weeks later, I got a check for $10,000 reimbursing me! Honestly, without this program, I might not have been able to afford doing all impact windows.
A few tips if you're considering it:
Check the official My Safe Florida Home website for current status. The funding comes and goes. Last I heard, they got a big funding boost in 2024 but it ran out quickly due to huge demand. They may or may not reopen for new applications depending on state budget.
Even if funds are dry now, it’s worth keeping an eye on. We were fortunate to jump in when it reopened.
The work usually has to be completed within a certain time frame after approval (I think it was 180 days).
You must use licensed contractors and pull permits (which you should be doing anyway).
This program is only for single-family homes, and there are some eligibility criteria (e.g., homesteaded primary residence, home value below a certain threshold, etc.).
Also, aside from the state grant, local utilities or governments sometimes have smaller rebates or financing help. For example, I heard TECO (Tampa Electric) had an energy efficiency rebate for windows at one point (it was like $50 per window or something, not sure if it’s still around). My credit union also offered a low-interest “home improvement” loan specifically for hurricane upgrades.
So, definitely explore these avenues. Free or discounted money can make a big difference in making a window project affordable. It certainly did for us – getting $10k from the state was a lifesaver.
If anyone wants more details on the application process, feel free to ask. I love sharing this info because not everyone knows about it and it can really help fellow homeowners harden their homes without breaking the bank.
Lots of great info here about quotes and products. I want to touch on the financing aspect, since paying for all this is a big concern for many (myself included). Not everyone can shell out $10k-$30k in cash readily. There are a few ways to handle it:
Cash vs Financing: If you can pay cash or from savings, you’ll avoid interest, obviously. But many window companies also offer financing deals. When I replaced my windows (I did 15 windows in Brandon, FL), I took advantage of a 0% interest financing for 18 months that the company offered. Basically, it was same-as-cash if paid in 18 months. I made sure to budget and pay it off in that period to avoid back interest. It worked out great – it was like spreading the cost over a year and a half with no extra fees.
Some things I learned:
Many of the bigger companies have partnerships with financing companies (like Greensky, Synchrony, Ygrene, etc.). They might offer promotional 0% periods or low APR for a certain number of years. Just read the fine print – often the 0% is deferred interest, meaning if you don’t pay by the end of promo, interest from day one hits you. So only do that if you’re confident you can pay it off in time.
Home Equity Line of Credit (HELOC): Interest rates have gone up lately, but a HELOC can be an option to borrow against your home equity for improvements. The interest may be tax deductible since it’s home improvement (consult your tax advisor). I considered this, but ended up using the company’s 0% offer instead.
Credit union loans: My local credit union had a “Hurricane Hardening Loan” product at a decent fixed rate (like 4% APR). I nearly went with that. These can be easier to get than a full refinance and cheaper than putting it on a credit card.
Credit Cards: Some people open a new credit card that has 12-18 months 0% APR on purchases and charge the windows to that. It’s an option if you have good credit and can manage payments, but be very careful with limits and what happens if you can’t pay it off in time (those interest rates jump up high).
In my case, the window company (a local one, not a big national) even helped guide me through their finance application and I was approved on the spot during the quote visit.
Also, keep in mind the payment schedule with your contractor. Typically, you don’t pay all up front. I paid 10% as a deposit, then 50% when the windows were ordered (to cover materials), and the rest after installation was completed and we were satisfied. If a contractor asks for full payment before they do anything, run away. A small deposit is normal, but bulk of payment should be after work is done.
So yes, there are ways to tackle the cost. Don’t let the sticker shock of a big number scare you from asking about financing options. Windows are a long-term investment, and spreading out payments helped us manage it.
Just be realistic about what you can afford monthly so you don’t end up in a bind. Figure out the max you can pay per month and choose a financing plan that fits that. We treated our window loan payment like a temporary “extra mortgage payment” for that year.
Hope that perspective helps anyone worried about how to pay for this big project.
Since financing came up, I'll add my two cents on a specific program called PACE (Property Assessed Clean Energy) financing, which is available in Florida for improvements like windows, but it comes with some caveats.
When I was getting my windows done, one contractor's salesman pitched me on a PACE program. It basically lets you finance through your property tax bill. The idea sounds great: no money down, no credit check, and you pay it back over 10-20 years via an assessment added to your annual property taxes. It was tempting because it made a $20k project look like “just a few hundred dollars added to your tax bill each year.”
However, I did some homework and talked to a real estate savvy friend, and here’s what I learned:
PACE financing is a lien on your property. It takes priority over your mortgage. This can be a problem when selling or refinancing. Many buyers’ mortgage lenders will require the PACE lien to be paid off before closing. Similarly, if you try to refinance your primary mortgage, the new lender might not approve it unless the PACE loan is cleared.
The interest rates for PACE can be higher than a normal loan. The one I was shown had something like 6.99% APR over 15 years. Over that long period, you end up paying quite a lot in interest.
Because it’s through the tax bill, if you escrow your taxes with your mortgage, your monthly mortgage payment would jump up to cover the increased tax/assessment. So it’s not really “invisible” – you’d feel it in your monthly payment.
There have been some complaints that some contractors push PACE to close deals quickly, because they get paid upfront by the PACE provider. But the homeowner is then stuck with the loan. Make sure the contractor isn’t overselling it as “free money.”
In the end, I decided not to use PACE. I was able to get a standard home improvement loan instead at a lower interest rate, and I prefer not having any complications on my property title. I’ve read stories on other forums about homeowners struggling to sell their house because the buyer didn’t want to take over the PACE payments, and the seller had to pay it off (sometimes tens of thousands) out of the sale.
That said, PACE has helped some people get improvements they otherwise couldn’t afford. If it’s the only way you can do it, just go in with eyes open: know the interest rate, know the total payback amount, and understand the implications for your home’s title. And compare it to other options (like a bank loan or company financing).
TL;DR: PACE financing can be a useful tool, but be cautious. It’s not “free” by any means, and it can complicate future financial moves. It almost feels like last-resort financing to me.
I’m curious if anyone here actually used PACE for their windows and what their experience has been? I steered clear, but maybe others might share if it worked out for them.
Great discussion! I’d like to talk about window materials and brands a bit, as I went down that rabbit hole during my research phase. For us, picking the right window wasn’t just about cost, but also long-term durability in Florida’s climate. Some things I found:
Vinyl vs Aluminum Frames: Many replacement windows here are vinyl. Vinyl is popular because it doesn’t corrode (important in humid, salty air areas) and is a good insulator (helps with energy efficiency). Modern vinyl windows have come a long way; good ones can last decades if made well. Aluminum frames are usually stronger and can have slimmer profiles (so slightly more glass view). They hold up to heat and sun extremely well (aluminum won’t warp in the intense sun). However, aluminum conducts heat, so aluminum windows can be less energy-efficient unless they have a thermal break design. In coastal high-wind areas, some high-end projects use aluminum because of structural strength for large spans. My take: for most standard-sized windows, vinyl impact windows are excellent now. If you have very large openings or a specific modern aesthetic, you might consider aluminum. Just make sure any aluminum frame window is rated for Florida (many are with thermal breaks and good seals).
Composite Frames (Fibrex, etc.): Renewal by Andersen uses Fibrex, which is a composite of vinyl and wood fibers. It’s strong and low-maintenance, but only available through them (and as folks noted, quite pricey). Pella and Marvin offer fiberglass composites in some of their lines too, also expensive and not as commonly used in Tampa Bay unless you have a high-end custom home or want wood interiors.
Brands: There are a bunch. Some top brands we see in Florida: PGT (very popular, huge share of the impact window market, made in Florida), Custom Window Systems (CWS), Simonton, Viwinco, Jeld-Wen, WinDoor (by PGT), Origin (for aluminum, often for folding doors or high-end windows), Eastern Architectural Systems, etc. From what I gathered, PGT and CWS are highly regarded for impact windows here. Simonton (which Karoly and others use) is a well-known national brand; their StormBreaker Plus line is designed for impact and seems to perform well. Jeld-Wen makes a mix of products; some people have had issues with their vinyl windows in the past, but their premium lines are decent. My neighbor has Jeld-Wen impact windows from ProTech and he's happy.
Glass and Options: No matter the frame, the glass itself is key. Double-pane (insulated) glass with Low-E coating is standard if you care about energy efficiency. In Florida, you likely want a Low-E coating that blocks infrared (heat) but lets visible light through (so-called Solar Low-E). Some windows also come with a slight tint (gray or bronze tint) which further reduces heat and glare; we opted for a light gray tint on ours and it cuts the glare noticeably without making it too dark inside.
Hardware: Minor point, but check the quality of the window hardware (locks, balances, rollers on sliders, etc.). Better brands have sturdier hardware that won’t corrode. Since we’re in a corrosive environment (salt air near the coast), stainless steel components in the window are a plus.
Warranty: Look at the warranty offered by both the window manufacturer and the installer. Many top brands offer lifetime warranties on the frame/glass for the original homeowner (sometimes prorated after a number of years). But also consider the installer’s warranty on labor (1 year, 2 years, etc. is common). And importantly, a warranty is only as good as the company behind it. That’s partly why I chose a well-established local company and a well-known brand – for peace of mind that if something goes wrong in 10 years, they’ll still be around to honor it.
In the end, we chose PGT vinyl single-hung windows (WinGuard series). So far so good – no issues, and they feel solid. But honestly, I think any of the major brands, when installed correctly, will perform well.
If anyone has specific brand questions, throw them out! At one point I had a spreadsheet comparing like 5 different window brands/specs (yes, I got nerdy 😅).
@golfplayer86 on lead times – yeah, what you’re hearing sounds about right. In normal circumstances, 8-12 weeks is common around here for custom windows. When I did my project in 2021, it actually took almost 4 months (around 16 weeks) from order to install, but that was when supply chain issues were at their worst and everyone was still catching up from pandemic delays. From what I gather, things have improved now in 2024/2025.
A few factors on timing:
The specific manufacturer: Some brands have quicker turnaround than others. Simonton and PGT both have big operations (Simonton’s factory is out of state though, PGT is in Florida). Both quoted times sound reasonable. Smaller or more niche brands could take longer.
Time of year: If you order right in the middle of hurricane season (say July/Aug), sometimes there’s a rush of people doing the same, or if a storm hits somewhere in Florida, demand spikes and factories get backed up. If you order in the winter or early spring, it might be a bit faster because it’s a slower season. I purposely signed my contract in February, hoping to get windows in before summer, which I did (installed in June).
Permitting and scheduling: Sometimes the windows arrive but you’re waiting on an install slot or permit approval. In my case, the windows arrived at the dealer in May, but due to some scheduling and a delay in my permit inspection paperwork, the actual install happened in June. Minor hiccup, but it added a couple weeks.
So yeah, 2 to 3 months is typical. If someone promises like 2-week turnaround, be skeptical – most quality windows are made-to-order for each house these days. On the flip side, if a company is quoting 6+ months, that’s too long unless there’s some special product or backlog.
One more thing: ask your contractor how they handle the gap between window delivery and installation. Some will have the windows delivered to their warehouse and then bring them to your house on install day. Others might have them shipped directly to you. You want to make sure the windows are stored properly if there’s any gap (they should keep them dry, upright, etc. – not leave them in your driveway for days). Most good companies handle all that seamlessly, but it doesn’t hurt to clarify.
Glad you’re getting multiple quotes and comparing – you’re doing it the smart way! You’ll soon join the new windows club. 😄
@golfplayer86 about window style (single-hung vs slider): I have a mix in my house and have some thoughts on that. My house came with some of each originally, and when we did the replacements, we actually kept the same style in each opening (single-hungs where they were, sliders where they were) to keep the look consistent, but I had considered changing a couple.
Single-Hung: (the kind that open upward)
Pros: Very common and typically slightly cheaper per window than sliders of the same size (at least that’s what a couple of my quotes showed). They also tend to have a good seal because the sash closes downwards against the frame.
Cons: Only the bottom half opens, so ventilation is somewhat less compared to a slider of the same width. Also, cleaning the outside glass on a single-hung can be a pain if it doesn’t tilt in. Many impact single-hungs do have a tilt-in feature for the sash (ask about that). Mine tilt in for cleaning, which is great for the ones on the second floor.
Appearance: The look is traditional. In front of my house, I like the single-hung look with colonial grids; it fits the style.
Horizontal Slider: (slide side-to-side)
Pros: Both left and right panes can open (if it’s a 2-lite slider) or at least one pane opens fully. You can get a nice wide opening, great for breeze. They’re also really easy to open/close – no counterbalance springs, just rolling sliders. Maintenance on the mechanism is minimal (just keep the track clean).
Cleaning: If you get ones where the operable panels can lift out, it’s easy to clean both sides of the glass from inside. My new sliders in the back have lift-out sashes – I just pop them out, clean, and pop back in.
Cons: Sliders might be slightly more prone to air leakage over time if the tracks wear, but good quality ones are usually fine. Also, some people don’t like the look of a sliding window in front of the house (they have a more contemporary appearance).
Appearance: They have a low-profile look and can give you a wider panoramic view (fewer horizontal lines blocking the glass compared to a stacked single-hung). We put sliders in our sunroom because we wanted it to feel open.
One more consideration: double-hung vs single-hung. Double-hung (both top and bottom can open) are not very common in Florida from what I’ve seen, probably because we rarely open windows in winter from the top for heat escape like up north. And double-hungs have more moving parts, slightly higher cost. I only mention it in case a salesperson tries to upsell it – you likely don’t need double-hung function here unless you have a specific reason (maybe for cleaning if no tilt single-hungs, etc.).
In summary, I’d say functionally both single-hung and sliders work well here. If you have wide windows, sliders make sense. If they’re more tall/narrow, single-hung makes sense. We love the sliders for where we entertain (kitchen and lanai area) because of the airflow. But the bedrooms we kept single-hung and that’s fine too.
So it can also come down to aesthetic preference. Maybe ask your contractor if changing an opening from one style to another affects the price or install in any way (usually it shouldn’t much, as long as the size is the same).
Hope that helps your decision. Either way, you’ll get the benefits of new windows. 🙂
Sounds like you’re almost at the finish line, @golfplayer86! Since you asked for any last-minute tips, here are a few things that come to mind (some I did, some I wish I did):
Contract Review: Before signing the contract with your chosen company, double-check that every detail is listed correctly. This includes the number of windows, types (single-hung vs slider as discussed), sizes, glass type (impact, Low-E, tint), grid patterns, exterior/interior color, etc. Sometimes in the flurry of quoting, a detail can be off. You want no surprises when the windows arrive. I actually had a friend who ordered windows and one came without the grids it was supposed to have – the paperwork had missed that one window’s grid option. The company fixed it, but it delayed that window. So yeah, do a thorough review.
Permits & Inspections: Make sure the contract specifies that they will pull permits and handle inspections. The good ones do this by default (sounds like Karoly and ProTech certainly do). I just like having it in writing. Also ask if the permit fee is included in your quote or separate – usually it’s included, but good to confirm.
Scheduling & Prep: Once you schedule install, ask what you need to do to prep your home. Typically, you’ll need to move furniture away from windows, take down any blinds/curtains, and disable alarm sensors on windows (if you have a security system) prior to work. I spent a weekend before installation doing that and it made the crew’s job easier and protected my stuff.
During Installation: If you can, be home (or have someone home) during the install. That way if the crew has questions (like how you want something trimmed out, or if they discover any wood rot, etc.) you can address it. In my case, I stuck around and the installers actually showed me one window area that had some old water damage. They fixed it on the spot (replaced a bit of wood) and let me know. Also, you can catch little things – for example, I noticed one screen had a small tear when they were done; the crew happily replaced that screen once I pointed it out.
Final Walk-through: Before they leave, do a walk-through of each window with the lead installer. Open and close each one, check locks, make sure the glass is clean and free of scratches, etc. A reputable company will want you to sign off that everything is in order. This is the time to bring up any concerns. It’s much easier to address things on the spot than later.
Keep Documentation: After completion, you should get copies of the permit inspection approval and the product certificates (like the NOA/FL product approval for the windows, and any warranty info). Keep those in your house records. The permit proof is important for future resale or insurance. The warranty info will be useful if you ever need service.
After Install Care: New windows are pretty low maintenance, but remember to register any product warranties if required (some brands require the homeowner to register online). Also, avoid using a pressure washer directly on the window frames or caulking when you wash the house – give the caulk a good cure time (a couple weeks) and even then be gentle around windows to not break seals.
Enjoy it: Lastly, enjoy the benefits! The first time a big storm rolls through, you’ll feel so much more at ease. And even on just a normal hot day, you’ll likely notice your home is cooler and quieter. It’s a great feeling knowing you invested in something that improves your daily life and your home’s value.
Congrats in advance on making the upgrade. Let us know how the installation goes!
Just to add another perspective – my situation involved a historic home in Tampa (Tampa Heights area) which added some extra hoops to jump through for window replacement. If anyone reading this has an older home in a historic district (St. Pete has some too, like Old Northeast, etc.), here’s what I dealt with:
My home was built in 1928 and is in a designated historic district. This meant I couldn’t just put in any window; the replacements visible from the street had to look similar to the originals (which were old wood single-hung windows with grids). The city’s historic preservation office required me to get approval (Certificate of Appropriateness) before replacing.
Challenges & solutions:
Material: They strongly prefer wood or wood-clad windows to maintain appearance. However, genuine wood impact windows are extremely expensive (think Andersen E-Series or Pella Reserve lines). I was on a budget, so I worked with the review board and showed them some high-quality vinyl windows that mimic the look (with permanent exterior grids that match the original pattern). After some convincing, they allowed vinyl as long as the style matched exactly.
Style: I had to keep the same 6-over-1 grid pattern on the upper and lower sash to match the original look. This was no problem since many manufacturers offer custom grids.
Color: They wanted the exterior color to be white (same as original). The vinyl windows I chose are white extruded vinyl, so that fit. If someone wanted a different color, they'd likely have to get them painted or go with a clad window.
Glass: They surprisingly had no objection to impact glass (which is slightly thicker and has a slight tint), as it's not really noticeable from afar. So we definitely went impact for the benefits.
Approval Process: I had to submit window specs, drawings, and photos of the current windows to the historical committee. This added about a month of lead time before I could even order. Once they signed off, we proceeded with permitting as usual.
I ended up using a local window company that had experience with historic homes. They installed Jeld-Wen wood-clad windows on the front facade (to 100% satisfy the historic look – those were pricier) and we did vinyl impact windows on the sides/back where it wasn’t as strictly regulated. Kind of a hybrid approach to balance cost and compliance. Total was about $22k for 9 windows (3 wood-clad in front, 6 vinyl in back). Not cheap, but it was the compromise to keep the home’s character and get hurricane protection.
If you’re not in a formal historic district, you likely won’t have to worry about this level of approval. But I thought I’d mention it since Tampa Bay has pockets of historic neighborhoods. Always check if your home falls under any special guidelines. And if it does, work with companies who have done similar projects – they can save you a lot of headache in the approval process.
In the end, my new windows look almost identical to the originals from 1928, but perform like a 2020s window. Best of both worlds, just took extra paperwork and money 😅.
Haha @design_barbara, I had to laugh at the Weather Tite cookies comment. We had them out for a quote last year and yep – got a bag of fresh chocolate chip cookies during the sales pitch! 🍪 I mean, props for the memorable marketing.
For what it’s worth, we actually did end up using Weather Tite for our project (12 windows, non-impact). Their price wasn’t the lowest (we paid about $11k for 12 double-pane windows with no grids), but we felt comfortable with them because friends had a good experience. The cookies didn’t hurt either, lol. And to give credit, they did a good job with install and we've had no issues two years later.
That said, after seeing others’ prices here, maybe we could have saved more going with a competitor. But at the time, we just went with who we felt good about. Sometimes that’s how it goes. If I had found this thread earlier, I might have shopped around a bit more!
Anyway, yes, Weather Tite is perfectly decent. But whether cookies are worth a couple grand extra in price... debatable! 😉
@gaming_duke I saw your question on PACE financing experiences. I actually did use a PACE program to finance my window and door replacement in 2022. My perspective: it was a mixed bag but overall worked out for me, with some caveats.
I got 15 impact windows and a new impact front door through the Ygrene PACE program (Ygrene is one of the big PACE providers in Florida). The total was around $25k, and I did not have that liquid. My credit isn’t the best, so conventional financing wasn’t easy. PACE approved me based on home equity alone.
The good:
It allowed me to get the project done immediately, which was a huge relief since hurricane season was coming and my old windows were terrible.
The process was fast – I applied through the contractor, got approval in a day or two. No money out of pocket except a small down payment to the contractor.
The payments are spread over 20 years on my property tax. For me, that’s about ~$1,800 extra per year on taxes. When I escrow that with my mortgage, it’s roughly an extra $150 a month. That made it doable in my budget.
The not-so-good:
As you mentioned, the interest rate is high. My effective rate is ~7.5%. Over 20 years, I’ll be paying a lot in interest if I take that long. My plan is to refinance or pay it off early if I can (there’s no prepayment penalty with my PACE loan, thankfully).
I refinanced my primary mortgage last year and yes, the new lender required that I pay off the PACE loan as a condition. That was a scramble! I hadn’t realized it would be an issue. I ended up taking a personal loan to pay off the remaining PACE balance just so I could refi and lock in a low interest rate on the mortgage. In hindsight, maybe I should’ve just stuck with the higher mortgage rate and kept the PACE in place. Live and learn.
If I sell the house, I suspect I’d have to pay it off then too, because most buyers would balk at taking on that additional tax burden.
So, I’d say PACE was a useful tool to get the job done when I needed it, but it’s not a free ride. It’s a loan with strings attached to your property. For folks who can’t get other financing and need improvements now, it’s an option. But if you have good credit or equity, you might find a home equity loan or something at a lower interest rate to be better.
I don’t regret it because I got my impact windows and they very well may have protected my home from damage in the storms we had since. But I did have to juggle things financially after the fact to manage that debt.
Basically echoing your conclusion: use PACE only if it’s the best/only choice, and have an exit strategy for it (like refinancing it out later) if possible.
Hope that gives some insight from someone who’s been through it!