My Tampa Bay Window Replacement Experience (15 Impact Windows) - Costs, Details & Installer Review

@lunawoodworker Great point. I’m in a neighborhood with an HOA in Wesley Chapel, and while it’s all single-family homes (no condo board), our HOA had guidelines too. They required that any front-facing windows have grids to maintain a uniform look in the community. We personally wanted clear windows (no grids) for better view, but we ended up getting internal grids on the upper sashes of our front windows to comply. Not a big deal, but something I wouldn’t have thought of until I checked. The installer (we used a local company, not one mentioned yet here) was familiar with our subdivision’s rules, which was helpful.
So yes, always check if your HOA has any say in it. Some are particular about window style, tint, etc. The last thing you want is to install and then get a notice that it’s not compliant.

By the way, in terms of aesthetic choices: For the side and back of our house, we went grid-free and love the unobstructed view. For anyone debating grids vs no grids, grids do make the window look more traditional or colonial, while no grids give a more modern, clean look. We found that some companies charge a little extra for grids, so if you don’t need/want them, you might save a bit by skipping them.

I have a quick question for those who have already gotten new windows: have you noticed condensation on the outside of the glass in the mornings? I just got new impact windows installed (I’m in Apollo Beach), and on some humid mornings I see the outside of the glass looking foggy. It goes away once the sun hits it. The inside is perfectly dry, so it’s not a leak or anything. I’m assuming it’s because the new windows insulate so well that the outer glass stays cooler and gets condensation from the warm humid air? Just wanted to check if others see this too.
It’s a bit ironic because we used to have condensation on the inside of our old windows (especially in winter), and that’s gone now. But now I see it on the outside occasionally. I’m not complaining – just making sure this is normal for high-efficiency windows.

@mark_chef Yes! That’s actually normal and a sign your windows are doing their job. It’s called “exterior condensation” and it happens on cool mornings when you have high humidity outside and your efficient windows keep your indoor air (and the inner pane of glass) cool. The outer pane stays cooler than the dew point of the outside air, so moisture condenses on it. As soon as the outside air warms up a bit or sunlight hits the glass, it evaporates.
It freaked me out the first time I saw it too – I thought something was wrong. But it’s actually the opposite: it means very little heat from inside is escaping to warm up that outer pane. With older single-pane or less efficient windows, the heat transfer would usually keep the exterior glass warmer, thus no condensation outside (but you’d lose energy).

So don’t worry, it’s normal. Some manufacturers even mention it in their care guide, saying it’s a natural occurrence with high-performance windows. Just keep the outside glass clean and it’ll be a minor thing. If anything, be happy knowing your new windows are well-insulated 😎.

Something not mentioned yet but definitely a plus: security against break-ins. One of the first things our window salesman demonstrated was how impact glass works – he showed a sample and how it may crack under extreme force but won’t shatter out. This was a selling point for me and my spouse. We don’t live in a high-crime area or anything, but it’s nice knowing these windows are much harder to breach. A burglar trying to smash an impact window will have a tough time; it’s similar to a car windshield that cracks but stays in place.
Interestingly, after we installed our windows, our local police community liaison (who does home security surveys) mentioned that burglars usually avoid houses with impact windows or doors because it’s noisy and time-consuming to break through. They’d rather find a weaker target. So it’s a side benefit: along with storm safety, you get improved home security.

Of course, still have a good alarm system and all that, but we do feel safer in multiple ways now.

I’ll toss in a small observation: the new Low-E impact glass can have a slight reflective or tinted appearance from the outside. Our windows (we got CWS with grey Low-E tint) have a mild mirror-like look when the sun hits them. We actually like it because it gives us privacy in the daytime (can’t easily see in from outside), but some folks might not expect that. At night from inside, looking out is just fine, but looking at the house from the curb, the windows have a subtle reflective sheen compared to the old clear glass we had.
Also, our Low-E tint is just a neutral gray, which slightly softens the bright sunlight. There are different levels of tint or Low-E coatings, so if you have a preference (like very clear vs more tinted), you should discuss that with the installer when picking the glass options. In Florida, many people go with some tint to cut down on glare and heat.

One more thing: if you have any radio antennas or things like that near a window (like a TV antenna or a weather radio), sometimes the metallic coating in Low-E can slightly weaken signals. I haven’t noticed any issue with cell phone or WiFi signals personally, but I’ve heard it mentioned. For most of us, it’s a non-issue, but worth knowing.

This might be a newbie question, but after a heavy rain I noticed a bit of water in the bottom track of my new sliding windows. Is that normal? There are little holes (weep holes) in the frame and the water did drain out eventually, but I got worried when I first saw a small puddle in there. The installers told me something about how the windows are designed to handle some water infiltration and drain it, but it still made me nervous.
Can someone confirm if that’s expected? My windows are PGT horizontal sliders. I never really paid attention with my old windows, so maybe it happened before and I didn’t notice. Just want to be sure I don’t have a sealing issue or something.

@georgewhiskers959 Don’t worry, that’s normal for many window styles, especially sliders. They are designed with weep holes to channel out any rain that gets into the track area. Florida building code actually expects windows to manage water like that – in a driving rain, a bit of water will get past the outer seals, so the frame has a drainage system. The key is that it should drain out fairly quickly through those weep holes.
What you described – a bit of water that then drains – is exactly how it should work. The only time to worry is if the water doesn’t drain (which could mean a clogged weep hole) or if you see an excessive amount of water coming in or actual leaking into your home’s interior beyond the track. It’s good practice to occasionally inspect those small drain holes on the exterior bottom of the window frame to make sure they aren’t blocked by dirt, caulk, paint, or even insects. I periodically use a little piece of wire or a squirt of water to ensure they’re clear.

So yup, no need to panic. It’s the window doing its job. My PGT sliders do the same thing during a rainstorm – afterwards I might see a little moisture in the track, then it goes away. Totally normal.

One tip on pricing: don’t be afraid to negotiate a little or ask about off-season discounts. When I was getting quotes, I noticed that companies were a bit more flexible during the winter months (when demand is a bit lower). I ended up signing in December for a January install and the company gave me about 5% off from the initial quote, basically as a “off-season special.” They didn’t advertise it, but when I hinted that I was collecting quotes and deciding soon, they sweetened the deal slightly to win the business.
Also, some companies offer a discount if you pay in cash or check (to save them credit card fees). I saved a few hundred dollars by writing a check for the final payment instead of using a card. Doesn’t hurt to ask.

Of course, don’t expect huge haggling like buying a car, but a little bit of negotiation can sometimes shave off some cost or get you an upgrade (one company offered free upgrade to laminated glass on non-impact windows for example, to close the sale).

So it’s worth politely asking if the price is flexible or if there are any ongoing promotions. The worst they say is no, but in my case it helped!

Florida folks, don’t forget to look into the My Safe Florida Home program. It’s a state-run program that, as of recently, offers matching grants up to $10,000 for hurricane mitigation projects, including window replacements, for eligible homeowners. There are some hoops to jump (your home must be older, you need to get a wind mitigation inspection through their program first, etc.), but I know a neighbor who got $5k from the state to help pay for their impact windows.
I actually applied for it. In my case, my house is 1980s and I met the criteria. They sent a wind mitigation inspector who came and evaluated my current openings, roof, etc. They then approved me for a grant amount if I do certain improvements (windows being one of them). Essentially, if I spend $10k on impact windows, they’ll reimburse $5k. If I spend $20k, they’ll give the max $10k. It’s literally free money (matching funds) as long as you use an approved contractor and follow the process.

It does take some time (there’s paperwork and you have to wait for approvals), so it’s not instant. But if you qualify, it can make a huge difference in out-of-pocket cost. Not everyone on this forum will qualify (e.g., newer houses or those who already did other mitigations might not), but definitely look it up if you haven’t. It’s called My Safe Florida Home.

For me, this program is the reason I finally decided to do the window project – getting essentially a 50% discount via the grant was too good to pass up.

@breezec63 Thanks for sharing your Simonton experience. I remember reading about that condensation lawsuit and was wary of Simonton at first. Good to know it hasn’t been an issue for you and that their warranty is solid. I’m leaning towards Simonton for my house (because their quote is coming in lower than PGT for me too), and your post reassured me.
Also, cool to hear the inspector himself had Simonton – that’s a confidence booster 😂.

Minor tip I got from my installer: after installation, give the caulk a few days to cure before doing any vigorous cleaning or pressure washing around the windows. They told me not to pressure wash the house or spray the windows directly with a hose for about a week. Also, if you plan to paint around the window trim or stucco patches, wait until everything is fully set.
In my case, they had to do some stucco touch-up around a couple of windows. I waited a couple of weeks and then painted those areas to match the house. Came out looking like nothing ever happened.

And yeah, @cars575 mentioned security – I sleep better at night knowing someone can’t just break a window and climb in easily. That laminated glass is tough stuff.

For those who haven’t gone through installation yet, just a heads up: the install process is loud and a bit messy (as expected). They were ripping out old frames, using power saws and drills to anchor new windows, etc. If you work from home (like I do), you might want to plan to work elsewhere or use earplugs 😅 on install days. It’s not unbearable, but definitely noisy. Also a bit of dust will be generated, though a good crew will put up drop cloths and vacuum. I ended up doing a thorough vacuum and dusting after they were done, which took care of it.
Small inconvenience for a day or two, but totally worth the end result. Just something to mentally prepare for so you’re not caught off guard by the commotion during installation.

I have a question regarding CWS (Custom Window Systems) windows. One of the companies I got a quote from uses CWS as their main line. I hadn’t heard much about them before, and when I googled, I saw some mixed feedback (like an old BBB rating that wasn’t great). But I see here @poet45 had CWS installed and seems happy.
Are there others here who have had CWS windows for a while? How are they holding up? Any issues like yellowing vinyl or hardware problems? I know PGT gets a lot of love, but CWS being Florida-based sounds promising too.

Just trying to make sure I won’t regret going with CWS if I choose that quote, since it is a tad cheaper than the PGT quote I have. Any long-term CWS users, please share your thoughts!

@diy_melissa I have CWS (WindPact Plus series) in my home, installed back in 2016, so about 9 years now. I can speak to their long-term performance: overall, I’ve been very satisfied. No yellowing or warping on the vinyl frames (they still look as white as day one). The hardware (locks, cranks on the awning windows, etc.) all still function well. I did have one window where the balance spring got a bit squeaky last year, but a quick spray of silicone lubricant fixed that.
In terms of durability, they’ve been through multiple hurricane seasons, including Irma in 2017 which hit us with strong winds, and they held up fine. No leaks, no glass cracks. I think CWS maybe flew under the radar compared to PGT, but they make a solid product. In fact, a lot of smaller installers like them because the supply chain is a bit less strained (PGT sometimes has longer lead times due to popularity).

That old BBB thing – I recall hearing about it. I think it had to do with some administrative issue or maybe past customer service delays, but personally I’ve not needed to contact them for anything. My installer gave me a direct lifetime warranty and said they’d handle any manufacturer issues.

So, if you’re getting a better deal with CWS, I’d say you shouldn’t be afraid to go with it, provided the installer is good. From my long-term user perspective, CWS impact windows have been excellent.

I know this thread is mostly about windows, but I want to highlight sliding glass doors (if your house has them) since they are part of many Florida homes. I replaced an old single-pane aluminum slider with a new impact slider as part of my project. The difference is huge. The new slider door (mine’s a 3-panel wide one) is heavy as a tank but glides like it’s on ice. It has double-pane laminated glass just like the windows, so it gives the same benefits: noise reduction, insulation, hurricane resistance.
Cost-wise, as some mentioned above, sliders can be pricey. My one door was about $5k by itself, roughly the cost of 4-5 windows. But it’s also a giant opening (like 12 feet wide by 8 feet tall). The install crew actually treated it almost like a separate project - it took a crane to lift the frame into place!

Security on the new slider is also much better: it has a multi-point locking system and a strong frame. We also added a little footbolt for extra security (and to vent it a few inches open but locked). With the old slider, I always had a charlie-bar and still felt it was a weak point.

So if you have an old slider, consider budgeting for that too. It makes a world of difference. The house feels totally sealed up now. No more drafts around the patio door either.

Don’t forget entry doors if they have glass inserts or side-lite windows. Those count as openings too for hurricane protection. In my case, I had a solid front door (no glass) so I didn’t need to replace it for wind mitigation purposes. But my neighbor had to replace his front door because it had a big decorative glass panel that was not impact-rated. He ended up getting a new fiberglass door with impact glass insert.
Just something to keep in mind: when we talk about “all openings” for insurance and storm safety, that includes windows, skylights, glass doors (sliders or French doors), and even those little garage door windows if you have them. If any of those aren’t impact or covered, you don’t get the full insurance credits.

Heh, I went as far as replacing my garage door too with a hurricane-rated one (but that’s a topic for another thread).

Update: Thanks to everyone’s input here, I went ahead and signed a contract to get my windows done! 🎉 I ended up choosing one of the recommended local companies (yep, one of the two frequently named here). They gave me a fair price and I felt good about their track record.
My project is scheduled for next month. I’ll be getting 10 PGT impact windows installed. I am both excited and a little nervous, but after reading all these experiences, I feel prepared. I’ve already informed my home insurance agent that I’ll have documentation for a discount soon, and they confirmed I should see a nice reduction once the windows are in.

I also took @dwhite46’s advice and managed to get a small discount by planning the install in the slow season. And made sure to tell my boss I might take a day off or work off-site during the loud install days (thanks @hollysnowboarder for that tip).

I’ll report back once it’s done to let you all know how it went. But just wanted to say thanks – this thread turned what felt like an overwhelming project into something much more approachable. 🙂

I’m late to this thread, but wow, what a treasure trove of info. Big thanks to everyone who contributed. This is the kind of community knowledge sharing that saves people money and headaches. I’ve learned more here than I did in weeks of my own research.
I’ll be joining the ranks of new window owners soon, armed with all these tips (and probably going with one of the trusted companies mentioned throughout). See you on the other side of the installation! 💪

I actually attempted a DIY replacement on one window (just a small bathroom window) before committing to a full professional job. Let me tell you, after that one window, I was more than happy to pay the pros for the rest! 😂
I’m pretty handy, but the level of precision and the heavy lifting involved made me appreciate window installers so much more. I had to make sure it was perfectly squared, shimmed, and sealed. And I was constantly worried I’d mess up the water proofing. It took me an entire weekend for one tiny window.

In Florida, you technically need a permit even if you DIY (if you’re the homeowner you can pull a homeowner permit in some cases), but I ended up not bothering for that one window – I know, not ideal. When I hired the company to do the remaining windows, I actually had them recheck my DIY one to ensure it was up to snuff (I fessed up to doing it myself). They graciously adjusted the caulking on it and added a couple screws to secure it better, no charge.

Lesson learned: it’s worth hiring licensed pros for this kind of project. I got it out of my system with that one window experiment. If anyone is thinking of DIY to save money, be aware of the challenges, especially with impact windows which are heavy and must be installed to meet code.

One more code-related tidbit for anyone doing this: certain windows may need to be tempered even if they’re not near the coast or anything. By code, any window that is in a bathroom near a tub/shower, or very close to the floor/doors, has to use tempered glass (for safety, so it doesn’t shard if broken). Impact glass is typically laminated which inherently meets safety requirements, but if someone were doing non-impact windows in those spots, they’d need tempering.
In my project, the bathroom window had to be tempered glass (non-impact) plus we had shutters for it to count as protected. My installer explained all that. Just pointing out – a good contractor will handle these details, but I found it interesting learning about these little code rules.

Also, for those replacing very old windows (like jalousie windows from mid-century homes), expect some extra carpentry work. A friend of mine had a 1960s house and when they put in new windows, they had to build out the window bucks a bit to fit standard sizes, and repair some old water damage. It added cost, but in the end it was all fixed and new.