Thanks, that’s helpful. Sounds like waiting might not save any money and could even cost more. I’ll start getting quotes soon then.
Another question for the group: When you signed with your contractors, how did the payment schedule work? Did you have to pay a big chunk upfront? I’m always cautious about that (don’t want to pay 100% before work is done). What’s normal in this industry?
Good question @politics575. Definitely don’t pay 100% upfront. Most legit window companies have a staged payment schedule.
For example, with Karoly Windows (who I used):
We paid a 10% deposit when we signed the contract. This locked in the order.
We then paid 40% more when the windows were delivered to their warehouse (prior to installation).
The remaining 50% was paid after installation was completed and we were satisfied (and after inspection passed).
Each company does it slightly differently, but typically you’ll see something like 10-20% down to order (since they have to custom make your windows), then either another payment on delivery or just the balance on completion.
If any company is asking for full payment upfront, red flag 🚩. At most, maybe 50% upfront if it’s a small company that can’t float the cost of materials—though even that is a lot.
I felt comfortable that Karoly only took a small deposit until the windows actually arrived. It meant they had skin in the game to get the order right and on time.
With ProTech Windoors, our payment schedule was:
20% deposit when signing the contract (they used that to order the windows and doors).
0% during installation – we didn’t pay anything more until everything was done.
80% final payment after final inspection was passed.
So they basically collected the majority at the very end. I think they asked for final payment within 5 days of completion or something, which was fine.
I remember one of the smaller companies I got a quote from (not ProTech) wanted 50% upfront and 50% on the day of install. That made me a bit uneasy (especially the idea of paying half before any work was done). It’s not unheard of, but I felt more comfortable with the lower deposit.
Always get a written contract that spells out the payment terms, and make sure it also covers what happens if something goes wrong (e.g., damage during install, delays, etc.). The reputable companies will have all that in black and white.
Our terms with Karoly were 10% at signing, 50% when windows arrived (prior to install), and 40% after completion – similar to what @sports_mary said. So yeah, that seems to be their standard.
One extra tip: If you pay any deposits, try to use a credit card if the company allows it (some might charge a small CC fee, but it gives you a layer of protection). We put our deposit on a credit card, but paid the larger balances via check to avoid fees. If a company went bust (rare, but who knows in a hurricane-prone area if a big storm hits and causes chaos), a credit card deposit might be recoverable.
It sounds paranoid, but I always think worst-case scenario. Better safe than sorry. 😅
This thread is gold 👍. Thanks @robertblogger for starting it, and everyone for sharing. I'm in Oldsmar (Pinellas/Hillsborough line area). My house was built in 2005 and still has the original single-hung windows. They are double-pane and okay-ish, but I can tell the seals are starting to fail on a couple (foggy corners). I also want to upgrade before I have issues.
Based on what I’m hearing here, I’m mentally preparing for a cost of about $1,000+ per window for impact windows. Does that sound about right in 2025? Like, if I have 18 windows, probably
18k−
18k−
25k total? Just trying to set my expectations.
Also I have two upstairs half-moon arched windows (one above the foyer and one in a bathroom). I'm dreading how much those might cost or if that complicates things. Anyone have those fancy shape windows replaced?
@psage55, yep, your expectation is in the right ballpark. For impact windows in Florida now, I'd say maybe $1,000 to $1,500 per standard size window is typical installed cost (including everything). Could be a bit less per window if you have a lot of windows (economies of scale) or if they’re mostly small. Could be more if you have very large or custom shape ones.
Non-impact would be cheaper, maybe like
600−
600−
800 per window installed, as a rough general range.
Those arched windows (often called eyebrow or half-round windows) do tend to be more expensive. The glass is custom curved and the frames often need to be ordered special. I had one of those in a previous house and it cost about 50% more than a same-size rectangular window would have.
For example, a neighbor had a quote where a regular 36"x60" window was ~
1,000(impact)andahalf−circletransomabovehisdoor(about36"diameterhalf−circle)wasquotedat
1,000(impact)andahalf−circletransomabovehisdoor(about36"diameterhalf−circle)wasquotedat
1,500. So not double, but notably more.
Some people with limited budget choose not to replace those fixed arch windows to save money, especially if they are up high and not a big impact risk (small window that might be okay with a shutter or film). But if you want the full impact protection everywhere, you might bite the bullet and do them.
TL;DR:
18k−
18k−
25k for 18 windows sounds plausible, and expect the arches to be on the higher end of the per-window cost.
Just to chime in on the cost part: I had quotes last year, and what @tim_joker said matches my experience. I remember roughly:
Standard size impact window (like 3ft x 5ft single-hung): about $1,000 give or take.
Larger ones (like a 6ft x 6ft big picture window): $2,000+.
Half-round or custom shapes: more than standard, like 1.5x the price as noted.
One thing: since your house is 2005, check if those half-rounds have any kind of protection currently. If not, and you skip replacing them with impact, you’d want to have a plan (shutters or at least hurricane fabric) for them. Insurance usually wants all openings protected to give the credits.
I ended up replacing even my bathroom tiny window just to not have any "weak links". It was like an extra $500 but then I didn’t need a shutter there.
Good to know, thanks @tim_joker and @kperez44. Yeah, the half-rounds are just plain glass now (no shutters for them). I do worry about them in a hurricane since they’re just as vulnerable. I’d probably include them in the project for a complete job, unless the cost is utterly insane.
Maybe I’ll get quotes with and without them, just to see the difference. If it’s something like $3k each and I can’t afford it, I might do shutters on those as a temporary measure.
I have two half-circle windows in my house (one above the front door, one in master bath) that I replaced with impact glass. They were indeed pricier than normal windows. In my case, each half-round (roughly 48" wide) was ~$1,200 as impact, whereas a similar sized rectangular would have been maybe800−
800−
900. So yes, there's a premium but not completely outrageous.
One strategy I've seen: some neighbors with those decorative windows opt to put a fixed aluminum hurricane panel over them permanently during hurricane season or even year-round if it's like an attic window, but that looks ugly IMO. I'd rather pay a bit more to have impact glass and keep the nice look.
Also, on the question of skipping certain windows: If you have to trim budget, maybe skip small ones that you could easily shutter. But as @kperez44 said, any opening left unprotected means you won't get the full insurance discount for opening protection. They usually require 100% of openings protected (either impact or shuttered) to give the credit. So factor that in; the credit might be a few hundred per year off your premium, which over time adds up.
You all bring up great points. I didn’t even think about the insurance angle that if I leave one or two windows not impact, I’d need shutters on them or I lose the credit. Good to know!
We do have those two arch windows (one over the front door, one in the master bath like yours @politics906). I was considering leaving them as-is to save money, but now I realize it might not be worth it. They’re not huge, but definitely big enough that if one blew out in a storm it would be a problem.
Visually, I also worry it might look odd if all the other windows are new and those two are old. Probably only I would notice, but still.
I think I’ll bite the bullet and include them so everything matches and for full protection. Maybe I’ll regret it when I see the line item cost, but better now than having to deal with it later or mess with shutters just for two odd windows.