Impact vs. Non-Impact Windows in Tampa Bay? Share Your Replacement Experience!

Thanks, that’s helpful. Sounds like waiting might not save any money and could even cost more. I’ll start getting quotes soon then.
Another question for the group: When you signed with your contractors, how did the payment schedule work? Did you have to pay a big chunk upfront? I’m always cautious about that (don’t want to pay 100% before work is done). What’s normal in this industry?

Good question @politics575. Definitely don’t pay 100% upfront. Most legit window companies have a staged payment schedule.
For example, with Karoly Windows (who I used):

We paid a 10% deposit when we signed the contract. This locked in the order.

We then paid 40% more when the windows were delivered to their warehouse (prior to installation).

The remaining 50% was paid after installation was completed and we were satisfied (and after inspection passed).

Each company does it slightly differently, but typically you’ll see something like 10-20% down to order (since they have to custom make your windows), then either another payment on delivery or just the balance on completion.

If any company is asking for full payment upfront, red flag 🚩. At most, maybe 50% upfront if it’s a small company that can’t float the cost of materials - though even that is a lot.

I felt comfortable that Karoly only took a small deposit until the windows actually arrived. It meant they had skin in the game to get the order right and on time.

With ProTech Windoors, our payment schedule was:
20% deposit when signing the contract (they used that to order the windows and doors).

0% during installation – we didn’t pay anything more until everything was done.

80% final payment after final inspection was passed.

So they basically collected the majority at the very end. I think they asked for final payment within 5 days of completion or something, which was fine.

I remember one of the smaller companies I got a quote from (not ProTech) wanted 50% upfront and 50% on the day of install. That made me a bit uneasy (especially the idea of paying half before any work was done). It’s not unheard of, but I felt more comfortable with the lower deposit.

Always get a written contract that spells out the payment terms, and make sure it also covers what happens if something goes wrong (e.g., damage during install, delays, etc.). The reputable companies will have all that in black and white.

Our terms with Karoly were 10% at signing, 50% when windows arrived (prior to install), and 40% after completion – similar to what @sports_mary said. So yeah, that seems to be their standard.
One extra tip: If you pay any deposits, try to use a credit card if the company allows it (some might charge a small CC fee, but it gives you a layer of protection). We put our deposit on a credit card, but paid the larger balances via check to avoid fees. If a company went bust (rare, but who knows in a hurricane-prone area if a big storm hits and causes chaos), a credit card deposit might be recoverable.

It sounds paranoid, but I always think worst-case scenario. Better safe than sorry. 😅

This thread is gold 👍. Thanks @robertblogger for starting it, and everyone for sharing. I'm in Oldsmar (Pinellas/Hillsborough line area). My house was built in 2005 and still has the original single-hung windows. They are double-pane and okay-ish, but I can tell the seals are starting to fail on a couple (foggy corners). I also want to upgrade before I have issues.
Based on what I’m hearing here, I’m mentally preparing for a cost of about $1,000+ per window for impact windows. Does that sound about right in 2025? Like, if I have 18 windows, probably
18k−
18k−
25k total? Just trying to set my expectations.

Also I have two upstairs half-moon arched windows (one above the foyer and one in a bathroom). I'm dreading how much those might cost or if that complicates things. Anyone have those fancy shape windows replaced?

@psage55, yep, your expectation is in the right ballpark. For impact windows in Florida now, I'd say maybe $1,000 to $1,500 per standard size window is typical installed cost (including everything). Could be a bit less per window if you have a lot of windows (economies of scale) or if they’re mostly small. Could be more if you have very large or custom shape ones.
Non-impact would be cheaper, maybe like
600−
600−
800 per window installed, as a rough general range.

Those arched windows (often called eyebrow or half-round windows) do tend to be more expensive. The glass is custom curved and the frames often need to be ordered special. I had one of those in a previous house and it cost about 50% more than a same-size rectangular window would have.

For example, a neighbor had a quote where a regular 36"x60" window was ~
1,000(impact)andahalf−circletransomabovehisdoor(about36"diameterhalf−circle)wasquotedat 
1,000(impact)andahalf−circletransomabovehisdoor(about36"diameterhalf−circle)wasquotedat 
1,500. So not double, but notably more.

Some people with limited budget choose not to replace those fixed arch windows to save money, especially if they are up high and not a big impact risk (small window that might be okay with a shutter or film). But if you want the full impact protection everywhere, you might bite the bullet and do them.

TL;DR:
18k−
18k−
25k for 18 windows sounds plausible, and expect the arches to be on the higher end of the per-window cost.

Just to chime in on the cost part: I had quotes last year, and what @tim_joker said matches my experience. I remember roughly:
Standard size impact window (like 3ft x 5ft single-hung): about $1,000 give or take.

Larger ones (like a 6ft x 6ft big picture window): $2,000+.

Half-round or custom shapes: more than standard, like 1.5x the price as noted.

One thing: since your house is 2005, check if those half-rounds have any kind of protection currently. If not, and you skip replacing them with impact, you’d want to have a plan (shutters or at least hurricane fabric) for them. Insurance usually wants all openings protected to give the credits.

I ended up replacing even my bathroom tiny window just to not have any "weak links". It was like an extra $500 but then I didn’t need a shutter there.

Good to know, thanks @tim_joker and @kperez44. Yeah, the half-rounds are just plain glass now (no shutters for them). I do worry about them in a hurricane since they’re just as vulnerable. I’d probably include them in the project for a complete job, unless the cost is utterly insane.
Maybe I’ll get quotes with and without them, just to see the difference. If it’s something like $3k each and I can’t afford it, I might do shutters on those as a temporary measure.

I have two half-circle windows in my house (one above the front door, one in master bath) that I replaced with impact glass. They were indeed pricier than normal windows. In my case, each half-round (roughly 48" wide) was ~$1,200 as impact, whereas a similar sized rectangular would have been maybe800−
800−
900. So yes, there's a premium but not completely outrageous.

One strategy I've seen: some neighbors with those decorative windows opt to put a fixed aluminum hurricane panel over them permanently during hurricane season or even year-round if it's like an attic window, but that looks ugly IMO. I'd rather pay a bit more to have impact glass and keep the nice look.

Also, on the question of skipping certain windows: If you have to trim budget, maybe skip small ones that you could easily shutter. But as @kperez44 said, any opening left unprotected means you won't get the full insurance discount for opening protection. They usually require 100% of openings protected (either impact or shuttered) to give the credit. So factor that in; the credit might be a few hundred per year off your premium, which over time adds up.

You all bring up great points. I didn’t even think about the insurance angle that if I leave one or two windows not impact, I’d need shutters on them or I lose the credit. Good to know!
We do have those two arch windows (one over the front door, one in the master bath like yours @politics906). I was considering leaving them as-is to save money, but now I realize it might not be worth it. They’re not huge, but definitely big enough that if one blew out in a storm it would be a problem.

Visually, I also worry it might look odd if all the other windows are new and those two are old. Probably only I would notice, but still.

I think I’ll bite the bullet and include them so everything matches and for full protection. Maybe I’ll regret it when I see the line item cost, but better now than having to deal with it later or mess with shutters just for two odd windows.

@robertblogger, sounds like a solid plan. And yeah, the uniform look of all new windows is a nice bonus. I remember after my install, the curb appeal improvement was noticeable because the old frames had gotten a bit dingy.
One more thing you touched on: insurance discounts. Make sure after you get your new impact windows, you get a wind mitigation inspection (if you haven’t had one recently). The inspector will note that all openings are protected, and you can send that to your insurer for a discount. In Florida, having impact windows (or shutters on all openings) can lower the windstorm portion of your home insurance. It varies, but like others have said, could be a couple hundred bucks a year savings.

Sometimes the window company even provides documentation or coordinates that, but usually it’s on the homeowner to get a new wind mit report done. It costs like $100 for the inspection, but worth it for the savings.

Jumping in on the insurance bit: I got about a 15% reduction on my homeowner’s insurance after installing impact windows and an impact-rated garage door. It wasn’t huge (like $300 off the annual premium), but hey, over 5-10 years that piles up.
Some insurers require that EVERY single opening is protected to give the credit, like even that tiny bathroom window or a skylight. So don’t leave any glass unaddressed if you’re going for the discount.

And don’t forget to update your insurance agent once the job is done. They won’t magically know you upgraded, you gotta provide the proof (wind mitigation report or receipts/certifications).

Awesome tips. I will definitely get the wind mit inspection after. I had one done when I bought the house a few years ago, which noted “opening protection: none” (thus no credit). It’ll feel good to change that to “protected” and recoup some of this investment via insurance savings.
Switching gears a bit: A friend mentioned to me something about energy efficiency and window ratings (like U-factor, SHGC, Low-E coatings, etc.). How much did you all pay attention to that? Did the companies talk about it?

I know Florida is mostly about blocking heat (sun) rather than keeping heat in (like up north). I just want to make sure I get windows that actually help with the summer heat and don't turn my house into a greenhouse.

@robertblogger, great point. In Florida, you definitely want Low-E glass on your windows. Virtually all modern windows will have it, but double-check. Low-E (low emissivity) is a microscopic coating on the glass that reflects heat. It dramatically cuts down the solar heat coming through while still letting light in. It also blocks UV rays which can fade furniture and floors.
Key ratings to look at (usually on the window sticker when you get them, or ask the rep):

U-Factor: measures overall insulation value. Lower is better. In Florida, anything ≤0.30 is pretty good for double-pane.

SHGC (Solar Heat Gain Coefficient): this measures how much solar radiation (heat from sun) passes through. Lower is better for us. Ideally ≤0.25 for our climate with a good Low-E.

Energy Star: If the windows are Energy Star rated for the southern region, they should meet those kinds of numbers.

The brands like PGT, Simonton, etc., have options for different glass packages. Most of the quotes you get will likely include a standard energy package that’s sufficient. But it’s worth confirming.

When I did my windows, I opted for the “SolarMax” Low-E (one brand’s name for an extra heat-blocking coating) because I have a west-facing wall that gets brutal afternoon sun. It made a noticeable difference in that room’s temperature.

TL;DR: Yes, make sure your new windows have good energy performance, which they likely will if you go with any reputable impact window. It’s a nice secondary benefit beyond just hurricane protection.

@nmiller16 is spot on. Most impact windows these days come standard with a Low-E coating and argon gas between the panes. Those two together are what give you the good energy performance.
I remember the Karoly rep showing me the Energy Star info. We hit the criteria easily. Our windows ended up with U-Factor ~0.29 and SHGC ~0.21 (those numbers were on the NFRC sticker they left on each window). For comparison, my old single-pane aluminum windows probably had U-factor 1.2 (terrible) and SHGC 0.7 or something ridiculously high - basically like having holes in the wall energy-wise.

Another thing: if you like the look of window grids/mullions (the criss-cross lines in some windows), remember that those will cast shadows and slightly reduce light, but they mostly just aesthetic. I got rid of my grids during replacement for a cleaner look and it also maybe gives a tiny bit more visibility/light. Some HOAs require you keep grids on the front of the house for style, so check that. Mine didn’t, so now my front windows are clear and I love it.

I’ll add anecdotally: after getting my new windows, the energy difference was noticeable. Our west-facing rooms don’t turn into ovens anymore by late afternoon. We also tinted one big slider (with an additional film) because it got so much sun, but for the windows, the Low-E was enough.
Another bonus: noise reduction. Even the non-impact double panes will help, but impact windows, in particular, are usually laminated glass (like a car windshield), so they block sound better. After ours were installed, the outside noise dropped a lot. We live near a busy road and I barely hear the traffic now.

The first night after install, I remember it raining and it was so much quieter than before – the old windows would rattle and you’d hear every drop, the new ones were like silence. It’s great if you have barking dogs or loud lawnmowers in the neighborhood. Not the main reason to get them, but a nice quality-of-life improvement. 😄

Yes! I noticed that in my old house when we did windows. The noise reduction was huge. I’m actually kind of excited about that benefit for my current home, since we have early garbage trucks once a week that always woke me up with the old windows.
On the energy note: I also plan to take advantage of the federal tax credit for windows. If I recall correctly, starting in 2023 the credit is up to $600 for windows (30% of cost up to $600). It’s not massive compared to the total project cost, but hey, $600 is $600. You just need to make sure the windows are Energy Star rated and keep the receipts and manufacturer certification.

Has anyone here filed for that tax credit? I think @nmiller16 or @sports_mary might have mentioned it?

I claimed the window tax credit for 2022 when I did a partial replacement at my mom’s house. It was straightforward. You fill in the amount on the energy efficiency tax form (Form 5695 if I remember right) when doing your taxes. You don’t have to send receipts, but you should keep them in case of audit.
The credit was capped at $600 for windows (and $500 for doors separately). We had spent about $5,000 on windows for mom’s place, so got the full $600 credit. It directly reduced the taxes owed, which was nice.

In 2025 the credit should still be there (it's in effect until at least 2032 due to the legislation that passed). So definitely take it. It’s not huge relative to a $20k project, but that’s like 2-3% back.

Also, if you do doors or other energy improvements, there are credits for those too, but each category has its own cap.

@psage55 Yes, I mentioned the tax credit earlier. I claimed it last year after my window install. Like @politics575 said, very easy to do on your taxes. Just keep the product stickers or a brochure that shows the windows are Energy Star certified. My installer actually gave me a printed manufacturer’s certificate for Energy Star compliance to file with my tax papers.
It’s nice to recoup a little bit that way. Between that and the insurance savings and just lower energy bills, you do get some return on the investment over time (though I mostly did it for the hurricane peace of mind and home comfort).

Good call on the tax credit and other savings. I joked with my wife that our new windows will pay for themselves... in about 50 years via energy savings and insurance credits 😜. But honestly, we’ve noticed maybe $20-30/month lower electric bills, which over a year is a few hundred bucks, plus a couple hundred off insurance, plus the one-time $600 tax credit. Add it up, and in 10 years maybe you get back 10-15% of the cost indirectly. Not too shabby.
Also, if anyone is considering financing, a lot of window companies do offer financing deals. I didn’t use it, but I was offered 0% for 12 months or something, and another had 5.99% for 5 years. Sometimes it’s through a program like Ygrene or Greensky or other lenders.

I ended up going with a home equity line of credit to pay for mine (interest was tax-deductible that way, and the rate was decent). But definitely shop around on financing if you need it. Some of those “no interest” deals are great but watch out for any catches (like deferred interest if not paid in time).