Jumping back in here. Great to see your quotes @sports_mary – those numbers look pretty decent. One thing I'd add: take a look at the warranty details for each option you're considering. Since it looks like you might have PGT (Quote 1), CWS (Quote 2), and possibly Simonton (if Karoly offers that) on the table, it’s worth comparing.
For example, Simonton (which I have) offers a double-lifetime warranty on many of their windows – that means it’s lifetime for the original owner and transferable (often as a 20-year or so warranty for the next owner). They also included glass breakage in mine (though again, not for hurricane damage, but for things like accidental breakage or break-ins, etc). PGT has a good warranty too, but I recall it's a limited lifetime for original owner and I’m not sure if it’s transferable. Still solid, just maybe not as long for second owners. Not sure about CWS warranty terms – that would be a good question for ProTech to clarify. It might be similar to PGT’s, or maybe 10 years on certain components, etc.
Now, warranty is one of those things you hope to never need, and if you stay in the house forever, transferable may not matter. But I always think it’s a nice bonus if one product has a better warranty, all else being equal.
It sounds like all three companies you’re dealing with have good reputations (especially since folks here vouch for Karoly and ProTech, and Sunshine Windows Co. sounded professional too). So you probably won’t go wrong with any of them. It might come down to the final numbers and your personal comfort level with the product and people.
Keep us updated! I’m excited for you to get new windows – it’ll make a huge difference in your comfort and peace of mind.
I’ll throw in another perspective: I actually went with aluminum frame impact windows on my house. My situation was a bit unique though – I have a couple of very large window openings (picture windows) and a huge 4-panel sliding glass door, and the contractor recommended aluminum frames for the added structural strength on those big spans.
Aluminum frames these days (at least the ones I got, which are PGT’s aluminum impact series) have thermal breaks in them to reduce heat transfer, but they’re still not quite as insulating as vinyl. I did notice maybe a slight difference in heat coming through on a hot afternoon compared to my neighbor’s vinyl windows, but honestly it’s not major with the double-pane and Low-E glass doing most of the work. The frames are slimmer though, which is nice because we preserved more glass area. In Florida, a lot of older homes had aluminum windows, so aesthetically it didn’t change much for us.
Cost-wise, the aluminum option was actually pretty comparable to vinyl for us. We paid a bit more for the really large custom sizes, but per window it wasn’t drastically different. One thing to note is aluminum impact windows are HEAVY – I was chatting with the installers and they said handling the big aluminum frame sliders was a beast. Thankfully they did a great job.
If your windows are standard size, vinyl is probably perfectly fine (and most common for residential). But if you or anyone reading this has a case where your openings are huge or you prefer the look, aluminum is a viable option. Just make sure it’s the newer thermal-break type for energy efficiency. And of course, aluminum or vinyl, get the ones rated for our wind zone (which all these brands are).
So yeah, a bit of a niche case, but just wanted to share that not everyone goes vinyl. It depends on the house. 🙂
Reading all these great experiences – I'll add a lesson from a hiccup I had. I had my windows done 3 years ago by a local company (I’ll refrain from naming because overall they were okay, but not the best).
In my case, after installation, I noticed one of the large fixed windows had a small crack in the corner of the glass a day later. It was like a stress crack, possibly from installation or a defect. I was super worried I’d have to fight to get it fixed. The company did come back and replace that pane, but it took about 4 more weeks for the new glass to arrive. So for a while I had a cracked brand-new window, which was frustrating. It all ended fine, but the lesson is: inspect all your windows thoroughly right after installation. If you see anything off – scratches, cracks, the window not operating smoothly, etc. – notify the installer immediately so it’s on record and they can address it under warranty.
Also, on timing – we were told 8 weeks lead time but it turned into nearly 14 weeks because of some supply issues. We signed contract in May but didn’t get installation until mid-August. So sometimes delays happen. It sounds like 8-10 weeks is more realistic now, but just keep in mind if there’s an unexpected delay, you might have to be a little patient. Try not to schedule it too close to hurricane season peak if you can, just in case. We were sweating getting ours in before September that year.
Overall, I’m happy with my windows now, but I definitely learned to stay on top of the contractor for updates and double-check the work when it’s done. This thread has you well prepared, though – you know what to look for!
I’m late to this thread, but just wanted to share the post-install perspective. We replaced all our windows (and two patio doors) with impact windows in 2023, and the difference has been amazing. A few things we noticed immediately:
Noise Reduction: It’s so much quieter inside! We live on a fairly busy street in South Tampa, and with the old single-pane windows we heard everything. Now, with the new impact glass (laminated), a lot of the traffic noise is gone. We actually had to get used to how quiet it is – we don’t hear the garbage truck until it’s right in front of the house 😄.
Energy Efficiency: Our electric bill went down by about 10-15% in the summer. The new windows have Low-E coatings and are double-paned, so they keep the heat out way better than the old ones. The house is more comfortable overall; no more hot spots near the windows and the A/C doesn’t run as much. We also got a small rebate from TECO (our electric company) for installing energy-efficient windows – it was about $100, if I recall correctly. Not huge, but hey every bit helps.
Insurance Savings: Big one for Florida – once we had all impact windows and doors, we got a wind mitigation inspection update and our homeowners insurance premium went down roughly 20%. In dollars, that was like $400/year of savings for us. It will vary for everyone, but insurers definitely give discounts if your openings are protected. That was a nice bonus to help recoup some cost.
Peace of Mind: Now during storm season, we don’t stress as much. We used to have to scramble to put up shutter panels for every tropical storm watch. Now we just watch the weather and stay inside. The windows are rated for something like 140-150 mph winds; hopefully we never test that fully, but it’s reassuring.
It is a big expense for sure (ours was around $25k for a two-story house, 16 windows and 2 sets of sliders). But considering the benefits and the value it adds to the home, we felt it was worth it.
So for anyone on the fence, I’d say: once you get it done, you’ll likely wish you had done it sooner. It really changes the game in terms of home comfort and safety.
Update: Got my quote from Karoly Windows and made a decision!
Karoly’s quote came in at $19,200 for the 12 windows + slider, using Simonton StormBreaker Plus (vinyl, impact) windows. The quote was very detailed and the rep was great (no surprise, based on what you all said). This was slightly higher than ProTech’s $18,400 quote with CWS, but not by a huge margin.
After a lot of thought, we decided to go with ProTech Windoors. It was honestly a tough call because I feel both companies would do a good job. In the end, the slightly lower price and the fact that a couple of you had direct positive experiences with ProTech tipped us in that direction. I also liked the window brand they offered (CWS) after researching it a bit more – seems like a solid product.
I want to give a big THANK YOU to everyone here for all the help. This thread has been an amazing resource and made me so much more confident in evaluating these quotes. I signed the contract with ProTech yesterday! They’re ordering the windows now and estimated about 8 weeks until installation. I’ll update again once they’re installed and share how it went.
Couldn’t have done this so smoothly without all of your input – truly appreciate it!
Congrats @sports_mary on deciding! You’ve inspired me to start getting my own quotes now 😁. I’m in Riverview (also Hillsborough) and need to do 8 windows soon.
Quick question to the group: how did you all pay for your window projects? Did you finance (like through the window company or a loan), or pay cash/savings? I ask because these projects are obviously not cheap, and I might need to finance part of it. The sales guys often mention “easy financing options” but I’m not sure if it’s better to go through them or get a home improvement loan or something from my bank.
I’ve also heard about the PACE program (Property Assessed Clean Energy) in Florida where you can finance and pay it back on your property taxes. Has anyone used that for windows? Pros/cons?
Any advice on financing would be appreciated!
Great question on financing. I didn't use PACE myself, but I did look into it. Here’s what I found and decided:
PACE Program: It’s tempting because they often advertise “no money down, no credit check, pay through your property tax.” However, be careful. PACE loans typically have pretty high interest rates (I've seen 6.5-8% or more) and fees. Plus, it puts a lien on your property that you have to pay off if you sell the house. Some mortgage lenders also don’t like PACE liens, which can complicate refinancing or selling. I personally steered clear of PACE after reading some horror stories online about people having issues. It’s an option if you have no other way to finance, but I'd consider it a last resort.
Other Financing: Many window companies offer financing deals. Some partner with banks to offer 0% interest for 12 months or low interest for a certain period. For example, one quote I got (from a company I didn’t end up using) offered 0% if paid in 18 months. If you can pay it off in that promo period, that’s essentially free financing. Just watch out for any fine print (like if it's deferred interest that hits you if you don't pay in time).
Home Improvement Loans / HELOC: I ended up using a home equity line of credit (HELOC) from my credit union to pay for my windows. The rate was about 4% and I liked that I could draw exactly what I needed. Some people take out a personal loan or a home improvement loan as well. Rates for those will depend on your credit, but often can be lower than PACE.
Cash/Savings: Obviously if you can pay outright, that’s simplest. But not everyone has that amount liquid. In our case, we did a mix – paid some cash and the rest from the HELOC which we’re paying back over time.
TL;DR – If the window company offers a true 0% financing deal and you can manage the payments, that’s a great option. Otherwise, a bank loan or HELOC with a decent interest rate could be better than PACE. I’d be cautious about PACE unless you absolutely need to use it.
Others might chime in if they financed differently. Good luck with your project!
If you’re looking for ways to offset cost, also look into any incentive programs. Not exactly financing, but Florida at one point had the “My Safe Florida Home” program that @michelle_diver hinted at in terms of state stuff. Last year, a coworker of mine applied and got approved for matching grants up to $10k for hurricane hardening improvements (impact windows qualify). Basically, the state would match dollar-for-dollar what you spend, up to 10k. She replaced her doors and some windows and got a few thousand reimbursed. I’m not sure if that program is still open or funded for this year, but definitely worth researching.
Also, local utility companies sometimes have rebates for energy efficient windows (like @richardsnorkeler got $100 from TECO). It’s not huge money but check with TECO or Duke or whoever your electric provider is.
As for paying: I did a standard 50% deposit and 50% on completion deal with my contractor (paid from savings, in my case). Most will require some deposit to order the windows (because they’re custom-made usually). Just make sure the payment schedule is fair – e.g., not full payment until the job is done to your satisfaction. 10-50% upfront is common, then the rest after install and final inspection. Never pay it all upfront, obviously.
I’ll chime in on the financing topic too. I ended up using the financing offered by the window company. It was through a third-party lender (GreenSky, I think). They had a promotion for 0% interest for 12 months, same-as-cash. I normally am wary of financing with contractors, but I read the terms carefully and it truly was 0% as long as I paid it off in 12 months. There was a $39 processing fee or something, but no biggie. We treated it like a short-term loan – paid it off before the 12 months were up using some savings and a year-end bonus. Worked out great and saved us from pulling money out of investments.
If you do go that route, just set up a plan to pay it within the no-interest period. Those deals are great, but if you miss the payoff date, they can hit you with all the back interest at a high rate. So, discipline is key.
Otherwise, @michelle_diver and @tea_steven covered the main points: PACE = careful, HELOC = good if you have equity and ok with a lien, and definitely check for any free money (grants/rebates).
Hello folks, I'm glad I found this thread. I'm also in Tampa Bay (Pinellas County). My house is a 1-story built in 1998, and I’m planning to replace 8 windows (no doors). All quotes are for vinyl windows.
I got two quotes so far:
One for non-impact double-pane windows at $5,800 total.
Another for impact-rated windows at $9,200 total.
The non-impact quote is obviously quite a bit cheaper. I do have hurricane shutters for all my windows currently (the aluminum panel kind that you have to put up manually). My question is: in your opinion, is it worth spending the extra ~$3,400 to get impact windows, given I have shutters already? Money is a bit tight, but I could swing it if the benefits are really big.
Also, the cheaper quote is from a smaller company I hadn’t heard of until now (found them on Facebook), and the pricier one is from a more established local company. Could the big price difference be just impact vs non-impact, or should I be wary of the cheaper one? It almost seems too low?
Any thoughts appreciated!