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Struggling to find shades or curtains for huge windows

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Posts: 6
(@josephwilson673)
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My parents installed motorized shades in their living room about five years ago, and honestly, they've held up surprisingly well... no real issues yet. But yeah,

"they can get pricey fast"
—that initial cost definitely stings a bit. Still, might be worth it for convenience alone.

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mollydiver
Posts: 8
(@mollydiver)
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Motorized shades are definitely convenient, but yeah, the upfront cost can be a bit of a shocker. We looked into them when we moved into our current place—huge south-facing windows, tons of sun, and manual shades were a pain. But after pricing it out, I decided to go the DIY route instead. Ended up getting some decent-quality roller shades online and installed them myself. Took a weekend and a bit of patience, but saved a ton of money.

"they can get pricey fast"

Exactly this. If you're handy at all, you might consider semi-custom shades or curtains and installing them yourself. Another option is to buy standard-sized curtains and have them altered locally—still cheaper than fully custom. Also, don't overlook IKEA; their curtain panels are surprisingly long and affordable, and you can double them up for a fuller look. Just my two cents...

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Posts: 8
(@fishing_ben)
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DIY roller shades are definitely a solid way to go if you're comfortable with tools. One thing I'd add is to pay close attention to the mounting hardware—big windows usually mean heavier shades, so make sure you're anchoring into studs or using heavy-duty drywall anchors. I've seen people underestimate this and end up with sagging shades after a few months. Curious, did you go with blackout material or something lighter to filter the sun?

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environment501
Posts: 9
(@environment501)
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"Curious, did you go with blackout material or something lighter to filter the sun?"

If you're still deciding, here's a quick way to narrow it down:

1. Consider room use first—bedrooms or media rooms usually benefit from blackout fabric. Living spaces might be better off with something lighter to keep things bright but cut glare.
2. Check your window orientation. South or west-facing windows get intense afternoon sun, so blackout or heavier filtering fabric can help manage heat and protect furniture.
3. If you're DIY-ing, remember blackout material tends to be thicker and heavier. Like mentioned above, anchoring securely into studs is crucial—don't skimp on hardware.

Personally, I've found that for huge windows, a mid-weight solar shade fabric hits the sweet spot between filtering sunlight and keeping the room comfortable without feeling cave-like. Just my two cents...

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Posts: 10
(@foodie64)
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Mid-weight solar shades are a solid choice, but honestly, I've had better luck with blackout curtains paired with sheer panels behind them. Gives you flexibility—open the heavy curtains when you want brightness, close them when the sun gets brutal. Plus, the extra insulation really helps keep energy bills down (my wallet appreciates that...). Just make sure your curtain rods can handle the weight!

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Posts: 27
(@mollyc60)
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I've been thinking about doing something similar, but my windows are massive and I'm worried about the weight issue you mentioned. Last thing I need is a curtain rod disaster at 2 AM, lol. Did you have to reinforce your rods or brackets somehow, or did you just go with heavy-duty hardware from the start? I'm not exactly handy, so trying to avoid any DIY nightmares...

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Posts: 6
(@river_skater3780)
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Had a similar issue with a client's huge windows last year—trust me, you don't want to wake up to that crash at 2 AM, lol. Honestly, heavy-duty hardware is the way to go from the start. I tried reinforcing standard brackets once, and it was more hassle than it was worth. Just invest in solid rods and brackets rated for heavy curtains. It'll save you headaches down the road, especially if DIY isn't your thing...

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Posts: 7
(@mrunner74)
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Good points here, especially about the heavy-duty hardware. A couple quick thoughts from my experience:

- Did you check the wall material behind? Drywall vs brick/concrete makes a huge difference in bracket stability.
- Sometimes it's not just weight rating but also spacing. More brackets spaced closer together can help distribute the load better.
- Have you considered motorized shades instead of curtains? Might be pricier upfront, but they're sleek and handle heavy fabric surprisingly well.

Had a client once who insisted on sheer curtains with blackout liners layered behind... total nightmare at first. Ended up going motorized, and it was a game changer. Anyway, sounds like you're already on the right track—just keep asking questions and you'll get there.

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Posts: 11
(@fishing_susan)
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"Sometimes it's not just weight rating but also spacing. More brackets spaced closer together can help distribute the load better."

Totally agree on bracket spacing—often overlooked detail. Also, don't forget about ceiling-mounted tracks; they can handle heavier fabrics without stressing wall materials. Motorized is great, but ceiling tracks saved me more than once with tricky installs...

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Posts: 13
(@sandraquantum773)
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"Totally agree on bracket spacing—often overlooked detail. Also, don't forget about ceiling-mounted tracks; they can handle heavier fabrics without stressing wall materials. Motorized is great, but ceiling tracks saved me more than once with tricky installs..."

Ceiling tracks are definitely underrated. Had a client last year with these massive floor-to-ceiling windows in their living room—gorgeous view, nightmare install. They wanted heavy blackout curtains for privacy and insulation, but the walls were drywall over metal studs... not exactly ideal for heavy-duty brackets. We tried extra brackets spaced closer at first, but it just wasn't enough support for the weight of the fabric.

Ended up switching to a ceiling-mounted track system, and honestly, it was a lifesaver. The ceiling joists gave us way better anchoring points, and the curtains moved smoothly without sagging or pulling away from the wall. Plus, it looked cleaner and more modern, which the client loved.

Motorized options are nice, but I've found they're not always necessary unless you're dealing with super tall windows or accessibility issues. Manual ceiling tracks glide pretty effortlessly if installed right. Just make sure you measure carefully and double-check your joist locations before drilling—learned that one the hard way a few years back when I missed a joist by half an inch and had to patch a ceiling hole... not my proudest moment, haha.

Anyway, don't stress too much if wall mounts aren't working out. Ceiling tracks might seem intimidating at first, but they're pretty straightforward once you get going. Good luck!

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