Hey @natemusician233, I'm in Pasco as well (Trinity area) and I recently went through this. We ended up having ProTech Windows do our install. They used PGT EnergyVue vinyl windows for our house. I can share our experience and a bit on the PGT vs Simonton thing.
First off, ProTech was great to work with – very knowledgeable about energy efficiency. They actually talked about a lot of the things mentioned in this thread (Low-E, argon, SHGC, etc.). Our PGT windows came with Low-E dual-pane glass and argon by default. The SHGC on our chosen glass package was around 0.23, which is pretty low (good for blocking heat). I think Simonton and PGT are both solid brands; each has various models. PGT is well-known in Florida especially for their impact windows, but they also make non-impact. Simonton is also highly regarded. Honestly, I would compare the specific window series being offered. For example, PGT's EnergyVue vs Simonton's Reflections series – both will have options that meet Energy Star for southern climates. In terms of quality, I don't think you can go wrong with either as long as the specs are there and the installer is good.
Our choice came down to price and comfort level with the company. ProTech's quote with PGT windows was a bit better value for us and we felt good about their track record (a couple of neighbors used them and recommended them). They did an excellent job on installation – very clean, quick (12 windows in two days), and passed the county inspection with no issues.
Regarding that big west-facing window and tint: we have a large west-facing window too, but we didn’t opt for an extra tint beyond the Low-E. The Low-E glass already cuts a lot of heat and has a slight tint naturally. From inside, it's still bright. From outside, our windows have a slight reflective look but nothing major. Some window lines offer different levels of Low-E (like one coat vs two or three coats) which can change the SHGC. If you get the lowest SHGC glass, it might already have a bit of a gray/green tint. You could do an extra tint or a bronze/gray glass on that one window if heat is a huge concern there, but remember it will also reduce some visible light. I personally like having consistent glass throughout for looks. Another option, if after install you find that window still lets in too much heat, you can always apply a window film or add a solar shade later. But see how the Low-E performs first – you might find it's sufficient. In my case, our west windows are so much more bearable now just with the standard Low-E.
So, my input: focus on comparing the total package each company offers (window model + install). ProTech and Karoly both have good reputations here, as you know. PGT vs Simonton – both are proven in Florida. Maybe let price and warranty be tie-breakers if all else is equal. And definitely ask about any differences like that tint suggestion – get their SHGC numbers with and without it.
Hope that helps! I'll be interested to hear what your Karoly and ProTech quotes come in at, so do share.
Thanks for the input on the triple-pane vs double-pane, everyone! I'm leaning towards double-pane now given what @samjones592 and others said.
I have another quick question about the Low-E glass: does it change the appearance of the window much? Like, is there a noticeable tint or mirror effect? My spouse was worried our house might look like it has very reflective or dark windows with the high-performance glass. I don't mind a slight tint if it means blocking heat, but I also don't want it to look weird. For those who have Low-E windows, can you tell there’s a coating when you look from outside or inside?
@pauls51 – great question. I was curious about that too before seeing them in person. The answer is: it’s pretty subtle. Modern Low-E coatings are much less noticeable than, say, those mirror-like reflective tints some office buildings have.
From the inside, our Low-E windows look basically clear. If you directly compare them to completely non-coated clear glass, you might notice a very slight tint or a tiny bit less glare, but nothing that stands out. Colors outside look normal. You still get plenty of natural light (in fact, I didn't really perceive any difference in brightness indoors).
From the outside, the glass does have a mild reflective quality under certain lighting (at some angles or times of day you might catch a faint mirror-like sheen). But it's not like a one-way mirror or super dark tint – most people probably wouldn't realize the windows have a special coating just by looking. In our neighborhood, lots of homes have Low-E windows now, and they all look fine aesthetically.
One thing to note: there are different Low-E types. Some of the highest performing ones (with the lowest SHGC) might have a slight greenish or bluish tint when you look at the glass edge-on, but again on the flat face of the window it's not obvious. My windows have what's called Low-E 366 (a common high-performance glass), and I can only tell it's Low-E if I hold a piece of white paper half inside/half outside and notice a slight color difference. Otherwise it just looks like normal glass.
So, I'd say don't worry. Your house won't look like a mirror or a dark cave or anything. Visitors probably won't even realize you have Low-E, except that maybe your curtains won't fade as fast 😄.
In short: minimal aesthetic difference, huge difference in performance!
Following this thread with great interest. I'm in Brandon (Hillsborough) and our house still has 1990s single-pane windows. They leak air like crazy. 🤦♂️ This discussion is motivating me to get on the ball with replacements. Thanks for all the info everyone!
I’ll add my two cents on something I noticed post-installation. I live in Clearwater (Pinellas), and after getting my new double-pane Low-E windows, I was initially concerned one morning because I saw condensation on the outside of the glass. The exterior of the windows was getting dewy in the early morning. I thought maybe the seals failed or something, but turns out this is actually a sign of how well the windows are insulating.
Basically, the glass with Low-E and argon was keeping my cool indoor air from reaching the outer pane, so the outer glass stayed cooler overnight. In our humid mornings, that cool outer surface can get a bit of dew until the sun warms it up. It’s the opposite of the old windows, which used to get condensation on the inside in winter (and sometimes even in summer if the humidity was high indoors). Now I have zero condensation inside; it's all on the outside occasionally. It goes away quickly once the morning heats up.
So, if you or anyone sees a light fog or dew on the exterior of a new efficient window, don't panic – it's normal in our climate. In fact, it means the Low-E is working. My indoor humidity also feels a bit lower now, because less humid air leaks in.
Just an interesting little thing I learned after the upgrade. Overall, loving how much more comfortable the house is now.
This has all been really informative. I want to mention for anyone shopping around: we got a quote from Renewal by Andersen (the folks with the Fibrex composite frames) just to see an option, and holy smokes, it was expensive 😮. They quoted us something like $20k for 8 windows! Granted, their product is different (composite frames, which they claim are super durable), but we just couldn't justify that cost.
We’re likely going with vinyl double-pane windows as well, similar to what everyone here is discussing, for a fraction of that price. Just sharing in case anyone was considering the big-brand names like Andersen or Pella – definitely compare with local companies. The local window specialists often offer more reasonable prices and the energy performance is just as good (if not better in some cases). Our focus is on getting that Low-E glass and good installation without breaking the bank.
@mark_chef Same here! I'm in Tampa and we got an estimate from Renewal by Andersen as well just to see what the hype was. It came in nearly double the cost of our other quotes. They wanted about $15,000 for 6 windows (eek!). Their Fibrex frames and all are nice, but like you said, the energy efficiency gains didn't seem significantly better to justify that price. The windows I’m looking at from a local company (vinyl, double-pane, Low-E) have similar U-factor and SHGC ratings to the Andersen ones, at less than half the cost.
So yeah, we scratched that option off. We're currently leaning towards a local company that sells CWS (Custom Window Systems) vinyl windows. The quote for those was much more reasonable (around $8k for those same 6 windows). The CWS windows are Energy Star rated for Florida and even have optional impact glass. We're not on the coast, so we might skip impact to save money, but it's nice that the option is there.
Anyway, we're in the stage of finalizing our order now. This thread has been a great resource to confirm we're making the right choices. It really is true that you don't have to pay an arm and a leg to get good energy-efficient windows. Just make sure the specs line up. And our plan is to have a trusted local installer (who has good reviews) do the work. They even said they'd do a post-install blower test around the windows to ensure no leaks.
I'll update once ours are in, but so far I'm feeling confident we made the right call skipping the super pricey route.
Hi all, chiming in with a longer-term perspective. I live in Dunedin (Pinellas County) and we installed energy-efficient windows about 10 years ago (back in 2015). Ours are double-pane vinyl windows with Low-E (I believe the brand was Simonton). After a decade in Florida weather, I can say they've held up very well. No seal failures or fogging between panes, and no frame warping. We do keep them clean and occasionally lubricate the tracks, but otherwise zero maintenance issues.
In terms of performance, it's not just immediate comfort but long-term savings too. Over the past 10 years, I'd estimate we've saved a significant amount on cooling costs each summer – maybe on the order of 15-20% less on our power bills consistently. It adds up. The house also feels less sticky in humid weather because we don't get that infiltration around leaky old windows anymore. And one unexpected benefit: less dust comes in now – those old frames had gaps that let everything in.
Also, @pauls51, regarding the appearance – our Low-E windows have a slight green tint if you look at the glass edge-on, but you would never notice it looking straight through. They look just like normal windows, so no worries there.
Durability-wise, the only thing that happened is one window's balance (the mechanism that helps lift the sash) wore out last year, but the manufacturer had a lifetime warranty, so they sent replacement parts free and the installer fixed it. So definitely pay attention to warranties – the good companies stand by their products for the long haul.
Hurricane-wise, we didn't get impact glass back then (we have aluminum hurricane shutters we deploy for storms). If I were doing it now and had the budget, I might consider impact windows for the convenience, but it's not absolutely necessary if you have other protection. With shutters and these efficient windows, we've done fine through some serious storms.
All in all, energy-efficient windows have been one of the best investments we made in our home. A decade later, our home is still comfortable, and the windows look and perform like new. So for anyone on the fence, I'd say go for it with a good quality product.
I'm finding this thread super useful. I'm up in Wesley Chapel (Pasco County) and looking to replace windows hopefully this year. One thing I'm debating is installation costs. I have a friend who's a general handyman and he offered to help install windows on the side for a cheaper price than a window company would charge. It’s tempting to save some money by not going with a full-service window contractor.
But I'm also aware how critical proper installation is (thanks to all the advice here). Do you all think it's worth paying extra for a professional window company to do it vs using a handyman? Has anyone tried the DIY or friend-of-a-friend route for window installs? I'm a little nervous about messing up things like flashing or sealing and then having leaks or voiding the warranty. But the quote I got for labor from a company is quite high, so I'm torn. Any thoughts?
@josephfrost990 I would strongly recommend using a professional window company or contractor for the installation, even though it might cost more upfront. Windows are one of those things where the install is as important as the product – especially here in Florida, where we have afternoon downpours and even hurricanes, you don't want to risk an improper install.
If a window isn't installed and sealed exactly right, you could get water intrusion around the frame, drafts, or the window might not operate correctly. Professionals will ensure the rough opening is prepared correctly, use proper flashing tape, caulking, foam, etc., and that everything is square and plumb. They also will pull the required permit and get the work inspected, which is actually required by code here when replacing windows. A handyman friend might not go through that process (or even be legally able to in some cases), and that could be an issue if you ever sell the house or have an insurance claim.
Also, when you use a licensed installer, you usually get a warranty on the installation itself. So if anything goes wrong (say a leak or a window not closing right), they will come fix it. With a DIY or side job, you might save money but if something isn't perfect, you could be on your own to remedy it (which might cost more in the long run).
Your friend might be quite skilled, but unless he's experienced specifically in window installation and familiar with Florida building codes, I'd be cautious. There are a lot of little things in window installs that pros just know from doing hundreds of them (like integrating with the house's water barrier, using the right sealants, shimming properly, etc.).
I had my windows done by a pro crew and I watched them work; I was glad I didn't attempt it myself. They worked efficiently in a team – two people per window – and even then it took a good part of a day to do several windows. They knew how to adjust things to get a tight fit and properly seal the exterior.
In short, I'd say invest in a good installer. It's part of protecting your home. Like @data843 said, definitely get someone licensed and insured, who will get permits. In our region, companies like Karoly or ProTech (and a few others mentioned) handle all that for you and have the expertise. You might pay more in labor, but you'll have peace of mind that it's done right and to code.
Maybe your handyman friend can help with other projects to save you money, but for the windows, I'd go pro. 😉