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Trying to budget for new Andersen double hung windows - what should I expect?
I get wanting a fresh start, but have you looked into insulating behind the trim before replacing it? Sometimes the drafts are more about gaps in the framing than the trim itself. I did a combo of spray foam and new weatherstripping, and it made a bigger difference than I expected. Just wondering if that’s something you tried before going all-in on new installs.
I hear you - sometimes the drafts are all about those sneaky gaps behind the trim and not the windows themselves. I’ve seen a lot of folks surprised by how much difference a can of spray foam and some decent weatherstripping can actually make. In older homes especially, the framing settles and leaves little air leaks that add up over time.
That said, there are times when even after sealing everything up, the windows themselves are just too far gone - warped sashes, fogged glass, or just plain tired. If you’ve already tried beefing up insulation and it didn’t cut it, then new installs might be the way to go. But if you haven’t pulled off the trim yet, it’s worth a shot before you commit to a big expense. Sometimes you can save quite a bit and get another few years out of your current setup.
Funny enough, I had a client last winter who was convinced they needed full replacements, but after we foamed up some gaps and swapped out the old weatherstripping, their heating bill dropped more than they expected. Just comes down to how much time and effort you want to put in versus starting fresh with something like those Andersens.
Pulling the trim is definitely worth a shot before you shell out for new windows. I had a 1930s house with drafts everywhere, and honestly, most of it was from gaps around the frames, not the glass or sashes themselves. If you do go the new Andersen route, be prepared - materials and install can add up quick, especially if you need custom sizes. I’d budget at least $800–$1,200 per window installed, but it can swing higher depending on options and your local labor rates. Sometimes just doing a deep dive on sealing buys you a couple extra years to save up.
That price range sounds about right from what I’ve seen, but I’ve also noticed it can really swing depending on where you live and how tricky your install is. I’m in a 1950s ranch, and the biggest surprise for me was how much the trim work and finishing added to the final bill. The windows themselves weren’t cheap, but getting everything buttoned up nicely after the fact was almost as much as the windows.
I totally agree about checking for air leaks before replacing. We found most of our drafts were from old caulking and some weird gaps behind the casing - nothing a tube of sealant and a Saturday afternoon couldn’t fix. Made a bigger difference than I expected, honestly.
Curious if anyone’s had luck negotiating with installers or getting discounts for doing multiple windows at once? I keep hearing mixed things about whether that actually saves much. Also, does anyone regret not going triple-pane, or is double hung good enough for most climates?
the biggest surprise for me was how much the trim work and finishing added to the final bill
Yeah, that’s what caught me off guard too. I figured it’d just be the window cost, but all the little finish details add up fast. On the installer discounts - when I did 8 windows at once, they knocked off a bit per window, but honestly it wasn’t a huge difference. Maybe like $40-50 each? Better than nothing, but not a game changer.
I’m in a pretty mild climate and just went with double pane. Haven’t noticed any regrets there, but my neighbor swears by triple pane for noise reduction. Anyone else notice a big difference with sound?
all the little finish details add up fast
That’s always the part folks don’t see coming. I’ve had clients shocked when the trim and painting sometimes run almost as much as the window itself, especially if you’re matching older woodwork or need custom sills. On sound, double pane usually does fine unless you’re right next to a busy street. Triple pane helps, but it’s a bigger jump in cost than in quiet for most suburban spots. Had one job where we swapped a double for a triple in a bedroom facing traffic - there was some difference, but not as dramatic as expected.
Yeah, this is spot on - those “little” finish details are sneaky expensive. When we did our kitchen windows, I was so focused on the price per window that I didn’t even factor in the trim work or repainting. Our old trim was this weird profile you can’t just grab at Home Depot, so the carpenter had to custom mill it...which took way longer (and cost more) than I guessed. By the end, the finishing bits were almost half the total bill.
On the sound side, I went back and forth between double and triple pane for our bedroom. We’re not right on a main road but close enough that traffic noise was a thing. Honestly, after all the research and talking to installers, I stuck with double pane and haven’t regretted it. The room’s way quieter than before, and I don’t think the extra for triple would’ve made a huge dent unless you’re right up against a highway or something.
One thing I wish I’d known: if your walls aren’t perfectly square (which, in our 1920s house, they definitely weren’t), there can be extra labor to get everything lined up and looking right. That added a few hours per window for us - not a budget killer, but not nothing either.
If you’re trying to keep costs down, sometimes painting yourself after install helps. It’s not fun but does save a bit. Just be ready for some sticker shock once you add everything up...it’s rarely just the window price on its own.
Gotta say, I’ve seen the opposite on the whole double vs. triple pane thing, especially in older homes. You mentioned,
but honestly, I’ve had a couple clients who were just a block or two off busy streets and the jump to triple pane really did make a difference - not just in noise, but in drafts and condensation too. It’s definitely not cheap, and yeah, if you’re tucked away on a quiet street maybe not worth it, but if you’re a light sleeper or super sensitive to temperature swings, sometimes the extra up front pays off in comfort.“I don’t think the extra for triple would’ve made a huge dent unless you’re right up against a highway or something.”
Also, on trim: sometimes you can get creative with stock profiles and a little wood filler or caulk. It’s not always perfect, but unless you’re restoring a historic showpiece, most folks can’t tell the difference after paint. Just depends how picky you are about matching the old stuff. I’ve seen people go all-out and spend a fortune, but a lot of the time there’s a middle ground that looks good and doesn’t break the bank.
sometimes the extra up front pays off in comfort.
That’s a fair point. I’m in a quieter area, so I went with double pane, but I do notice the bedrooms still get chilly on windy nights. Maybe triple would’ve helped with that, but the price difference was tough to justify for me. For the trim, did you find matching paint pretty easy? I’m worried about my patchwork looking obvious.
Matching trim paint is trickier than it looks, honestly. Even if you get the same color, the finish or age of the wood can throw things off. I had to test a few samples before I got something close enough that it didn’t bug me every time I walked by. If you’re picky, just expect to spend some time fussing with it.