I’ve wondered the same thing about my place (built in ’72). I caulked, weatherstripped, even tried those thick curtains... still hear the neighbor’s lawnmower like it’s in my living room. Maybe the walls are just thin, or the sound finds a way no matter what. Kinda makes you question how much those window fixes are really doing.
Yeah, I’ve been down that road too—did all the caulking and weatherstripping, then splurged on those heavy blackout curtains. Honestly, it helped a little, but I still hear every garbage truck rumble by. One thing I found: sometimes it’s not just the windows. Sound sneaks in through outlets, vents, even gaps under doors. I tried foam gaskets behind my outlets and it made a small difference. Not a miracle fix, but worth a shot if you haven’t tried already.
One thing I found: sometimes it’s not just the windows. Sound sneaks in through outlets, vents, even gaps under doors.
That’s so true. I remember when we first moved into our place (built in the late 70s), I was convinced all the noise was coming through the old single-pane windows. Spent a small fortune upgrading to double-pane, but the noise didn’t really go away. Turned out the mail slot and even the attic hatch were letting in a ton of sound—never would’ve guessed. Ended up stuffing some insulation in odd places and it helped a bit, but like you said, no magic bullet... just lots of little improvements that add up.
I get where you’re coming from, but I’ve gotta push back a bit on the idea that it’s always “a bunch of little things.” Sometimes, it really is the windows—just not always in the way we expect. I’ve seen a lot of folks swap out single-pane for double-pane and still have issues, but if the window frames themselves aren’t sealed up tight (like, actual gaps between the frame and the wall), sound just pours right through. Same goes for cheap vinyl windows with hollow frames—they don’t block much, even if the glass is better.
Had a buddy who spent a fortune on new windows, but didn’t bother with acoustic caulk or weatherstripping. Still noisy as heck until he went back and sealed every seam. Mail slots and attic hatches matter, sure, but if there’s an air path around your window, you’re fighting a losing battle. Sometimes it’s worth pulling off the trim and checking for gaps or missing insulation. Not glamorous work, but it can make a bigger difference than stuffing insulation in random spots.
That’s exactly what happened at my place—spent way too much on “upgraded” windows, but the noise barely changed. Only when I started poking around did I notice a draft by the sill. Turns out, whoever installed them left gaps behind the trim. Is there any way to check for these gaps without totally ripping everything apart? I’m not super handy, so if there’s a trick besides pulling off all that woodwork, I’d love to know. Otherwise, maybe it’s just time to embrace earplugs…
Drafts are sneaky. I’ve had luck with the old candle or incense stick trick—just hold it near the trim and watch for flickering smoke. Doesn’t require tools, just steady hands. If you spot movement, there’s your gap. Beats tearing everything apart, at least for a first check.
- That candle trick is actually pretty clever. I read about it on a home maintenance blog once but never tried it—guess I’m worried I’d set off the smoke alarm or something.
- Here’s what’s confusing me: If drafts are getting in, does that mean sound travels through those same gaps? Or is noise more likely to come through the glass itself?
- My windows are double-pane, but they’re from the 90s, so maybe not as good as newer ones. Sometimes when a truck goes by, it sounds like the window’s barely there…
- Tried weatherstripping last winter. It helped with cold air a bit, but I can still hear my neighbor’s dog like he’s in my living room.
- Is there a way to check how much noise comes from air leaks vs. just thin glass? Would taping up the seams for a day make any difference (just as a test)?
- Kinda funny—my uncle used to say you could hold up a dollar bill and if you can pull it out from the window seal without resistance, you’ve got a problem. Not sure if that’s science or just him being cheap...
- Anyone have luck with those window inserts or heavy curtains? I keep seeing ads for them but not sure if they’re worth the hassle or just a bandaid fix.
- Last thing: Is it normal for older windows to rattle a bit when there’s wind? Mine do sometimes, and I’m guessing that doesn’t help with soundproofing either.
Appreciate any tips—still figuring out which “fix” is actually worth doing before I start spending money on upgrades.
- Drafts and noise are like evil twins—if air’s sneaking in, sound’s definitely coming along for the ride. But yeah, glass thickness matters too. Even double-pane from the 90s isn’t exactly Fort Knox for noise.
- That dollar bill trick? Not just your uncle being cheap (though, respect). It’s actually a thing—if you can yank it out easily, you’ve got a leaky seal. I tried it with a receipt once and got the same result... so maybe my windows are even worse.
- Taping up seams for a day is a solid low-budget experiment. I did painter’s tape around one window during a windstorm, and it was noticeably quieter—at least until the tape peeled off overnight. If it helps, then you know leaks are part of the problem.
- Rattling windows = not great for sound or your sanity. Mine used to rattle every time someone slammed their car door outside. Ended up sticking some felt pads in the frame as a hacky fix—stopped the rattle, didn’t do much for noise though.
- Heavy curtains help more than I expected, especially with higher-pitched stuff (like that neighbor dog). They won’t block out trucks or bassy sounds much, but they’re way less hassle than inserts. Window inserts are decent if you don’t mind measuring everything twice and dealing with condensation sometimes.
- Weatherstripping is good for drafts but only gets you so far with sound. If your glass is thin or there’s a gap anywhere, noise finds its way in. Sometimes I wonder if my house is just determined to let every sound in...
- Honestly, unless you’re ready to drop cash on new windows (which is $$$), layering fixes seems to be the way: seal up leaks as best you can, slap on heavy curtains, maybe try an insert if you’re feeling ambitious.
Not sure there’s a perfect fix unless you go full “recording studio” mode, but every little bit helps.
I’d actually nudge back a bit on the idea that layering fixes is always enough. I’ve seen folks spend a bunch on curtains and weatherstripping, but if your window frames themselves are warped or the sashes don’t fit right, you’re kinda stuck fighting a losing battle. Sometimes it’s not just about air leaks or glass thickness—older wood frames can transmit vibrations straight through, especially if they’re loose in the wall. I’ve had clients swear nothing worked until we re-shimmed and sealed the whole frame. It’s not glamorous, but sometimes the noise is sneaking in around the window, not just through it. Worth poking around with a flashlight at night to see if you spot any light peeking in at odd spots...
- Totally agree about the frame being a sneaky culprit.
- I’ve noticed in my 1960s place, even after new seals and thick curtains, there was this weird whistling in winter. Turned out the gap was actually between the brick and the window frame itself.
- Quick fix? I used some low-expansion foam and it helped, but honestly, it’s not perfect—still get a bit of rumble from trucks out front.
- Sometimes it’s just old house quirks... but checking for those light leaks at night is a game changer.
- If you can feel a draft, sound’s getting in too.