- Bark as a shim—love the creativity. It’s wild how resourceful you get when you’re hours from the nearest hardware store.
- I’ve had similar issues with plastic and composite shims. Even after roughing them up, they don’t really “bite” into the frame or sill, especially when things aren’t perfectly level.
- Wood’s still my go-to for grip and adjustability, but it’s not always practical if you’re low on scrap. I did try a bit of old tire rubber once—cut strips with a utility knife and wedged them in. Not pretty, but it held up and didn’t slip at all.
- For energy efficiency, tight seals matter more than the shim material, but if your window shifts later because of slick shims, you’ll lose all that hard-earned insulation. That’s happened to me once... had to redo it in the middle of a rainstorm. Not fun.
- Kind of wish manufacturers made a hybrid shim—wood core with a thin grippy rubber layer. Maybe there’s something like that out there, but I’ve never seen it in my local stores.
Anyone else try weird materials out of necessity?
Tried using cardboard once—don’t recommend unless you want to revisit your handiwork after the first rain. I’ve also jammed in some old cedar shingles, which actually worked way better than I expected. They’re thin, easy to cut, and have a bit of grip. Never thought about tire rubber, but now I’m tempted to raid my shed for scraps. Hybrid shims sound genius though… feels like something you’d see on a late-night infomercial, right before the “miracle putty.”
Cardboard’s always tempting in a pinch, but yeah, it just turns to mush. I’ve used cedar shims too—easy to slide in, and they don’t swell up like pine. One time I ran out and tried some scrap vinyl siding as shims… surprisingly solid, but slippery if you’re not careful. Never tried tire rubber myself, but I’ve seen it hold up under some pretty rough conditions. Just make sure whatever you use, it doesn’t compress too much or your window’ll go out of square after a season.
Just make sure whatever you use, it doesn’t compress too much or your window’ll go out of square after a season.
That’s the key right there. I’ve seen folks get creative with shims—vinyl siding, old credit cards, even bits of composite decking—but anything that’s too soft or slick can cause trouble down the line. Cedar shims are my go-to, but I’ll sometimes double them up if I’m worried about movement. Tried tire rubber once—held up for a year, but started to sag when the temps swung in spring. If you’re off grid and short on supplies, I’d still avoid cardboard... it just never lasts, especially if there’s even a hint of moisture.
Cedar shims are my go-to, but I’ll sometimes double them up if I’m worried about movement.
I get the appeal of cedar, but honestly, I’ve had hardwood shims (oak, usually) hold shape better over a few freeze-thaw cycles. Cedar can compress more than folks expect, especially in damp climates. Composite’s slick, but at least it won’t rot.
- Interesting take on cedar vs. oak. I get where you’re coming from with hardwoods holding up better in harsh weather—especially if you’re somewhere that gets a lot of freeze/thaw cycles.
- I’ve actually had mixed luck with composite shims, though. They don’t rot, but sometimes they’re so slippery that getting a window to stay put during install is a headache. Maybe that’s just me being clumsy, but I’ve had them slide out while adjusting the frame—kind of annoying when you’re working solo and off-grid with limited tools.
- Cedar compressing is definitely a thing, but I do like how it’s easy to trim on the fly. When you’re juggling uneven openings (which seems to happen every time when you’re working with an older cabin), softwood shims can be a lifesaver for quick tweaks.
- Oak shims are solid, but I’ve run into splitting if I’m not careful with the hammer or if the grain isn’t great. Not a big deal, just means keeping a few extras on hand.
- For off-grid builds, I usually end up with whatever’s available locally. Sometimes that means making my own shims from scrap lumber. Not ideal, but it works in a pinch and you know exactly what you’re working with.
- One thing I’ve noticed—if you’re dealing with moisture, cedar and pine both need a good seal around the window anyway. Otherwise, even the best shim material won’t save you from swelling or movement down the line.
Curious if anyone’s tried using plastic or metal shims for windows in remote spots? Haven’t braved it myself yet...
Curious if anyone’s tried using plastic or metal shims for windows in remote spots? Haven’t braved it myself yet...
I’ve actually experimented with both plastic and metal shims in a few off-grid installs. Plastic ones are great for moisture resistance, but I’ve run into the same “slippery” issue you mentioned with composites—especially on uneven framing. They tend to shift just when you think you’ve got everything plumb, which can get frustrating if you’re working on your own with limited clamps.
Metal shims (like thin galvanized steel) are a different beast. They don’t compress or rot, but they can be tough to trim on the fly. I’ve also noticed that if you stack them, they can create pressure points on the window frame, especially with softer woods. Not a dealbreaker, but worth keeping in mind if you’re worried about long-term movement.
Honestly, I still end up using cedar or whatever scrap I have handy most of the time. The ability to shave or wedge a shim just right is hard to beat, especially when every opening seems to be a little out of square. But yeah, sealing is key—no shim material will save you from water sneaking in around the frame.
Interesting you mention cedar—I tried using some leftover pine shims from a door project, but they swelled up pretty bad after one wet season. Haven’t had the nerve to go full metal yet, mostly because I don’t have the right snips and I’m worried about rust down the line. Have you ever had issues with bugs or critters getting in around shims, especially in remote spots? I keep finding little gaps no matter how careful I am...
Pine’s a pain for shims—swells and splits too easy, especially if there’s any moisture. I’ve had bugs get in through tiny gaps, yeah. What worked for me was stuffing steel wool in the bigger spaces before caulking. Not perfect, but mice hate it and it keeps most critters out. For metal shims, stainless is pricey but won’t rust. Regular tin ones are fine if you paint over them or use a sealant, but you do need decent snips. Gaps are just part of it off-grid, seems like...
Steel wool does work against mice, but I’ve seen it rust out in a season or two if there’s any moisture. Ever try copper mesh? It’s pricier up front, but it doesn’t break down and bugs can’t chew it either. For shims, I actually switched to composite ones—they don’t swell or split at all, even when the humidity’s crazy high. Have you noticed pine sometimes compresses over time too? That always threw my window levels off months later...