Even the fanciest fiberglass or vinyl won’t save you if the frame isn’t squared up or they skimped on the flashing.
Couldn’t agree more—seen plenty of “premium” windows leak air just because someone rushed the install. Honestly, you did the right thing fixing it yourself. Sometimes it’s not about what you buy, but how carefully it goes in.
That’s exactly it—if the opening isn’t square or you skip proper flashing, even the priciest window won’t last, especially near the ocean. I learned the hard way: double-checking the sill for level and using plenty of waterproof membrane made a huge difference. It’s tedious, but worth it. Anyone else use those peel-and-stick tapes?
Anyone else use those peel-and-stick tapes?
You nailed it about the opening—nothing throws off a window’s lifespan like a slightly out-of-square frame or lazy flashing work. I’ve seen folks get so caught up in the brand or glass rating that they skip the prep, especially in salty air zones. It’s wild how much damage a little moisture can sneak in when you’re near the coast.
About those peel-and-stick tapes: I admit, I was skeptical at first. Used to swear by the old-school liquid-applied membranes, but after a couple stubborn leaks on a job in Cape Cod, I switched it up. The tapes are actually pretty forgiving if you take your time and roll them down well. I like how you can overlap and wrap the corners—no weird gaps for water to sneak through. Still, I’ve seen some folks slap them on over dust or wrinkled, and then blame the tape when things go sideways. Prep is everything, like you said.
One thing I’ve noticed, though: in high-humidity areas, some tapes can lose adhesion over time if the sheathing isn’t bone-dry when you stick them down. Learned that the hard way after a nor’easter rolled through and a client called about a musty smell. Pulled the trim, found the tape had puckered and let water in. Now I always double-check moisture levels before sticking anything.
It’s definitely tedious, but I’d take an extra hour of prep over fighting rot or mold down the line. Have you tried any of those newer “stretch” flashing tapes? They’re pricier, but they make wrapping odd shapes a lot easier. Not sure if they’re hype or actually worth it for coastal jobs.
- Had a similar run-in with peel-and-stick tapes last spring. Thought I’d save myself a headache and used them around the kitchen window—coastal Maine, so salt air is no joke.
- Prep was a pain (scraped, vacuumed, wiped down), but it actually paid off. Zero leaks after two storms, which felt like a small miracle. Still, I’m not convinced they’re totally foolproof—saw some bubbling on a neighbor’s install where he rushed it.
- About those stretch tapes… Tried a roll on a round basement window. Way easier than cutting and patching corners, but man, that stuff costs double. Not sure I’d use it everywhere unless I was dealing with weird shapes or had cash to burn.
- One thing I’ll say: even the best tape won’t save you if the sheathing’s damp or there’s dust left behind. Learned that after pulling apart some trim and finding black mold—gross and expensive to fix.
- Bottom line for me: tapes work if you’re picky about prep, but they’re not magic. I still keep a can of liquid flashing around for tricky spots or when weather’s iffy.
I get the love for tapes, but honestly, I’m not totally sold on them for coastal spots. Tried them on my sunroom windows—prepped like a maniac, followed every step, and still ended up with some sneaky leaks once the nor’easters rolled in. Maybe it’s just my old house or the salty air, but I’ve had better luck with old-school metal flashing plus a bead of good exterior caulk. Tapes are fine if you’re meticulous, but I wouldn’t trust them as my only line of defense, especially near the ocean.
Totally get where you’re coming from. I had a similar experience—meticulously applied tape, but
For my 1960s place, here’s what worked best:“still ended up with some sneaky leaks once the nor’easters rolled in.”
- Metal flashing under the sill, not just tape.
- High-grade polyurethane caulk (the regular stuff cracked fast).
- Tapes as a backup, not a primary seal.
Honestly, salt air just finds every weak spot. Don’t blame your house—sometimes the “old school” way just holds up better.
That’s been my experience too—tape alone just doesn’t cut it near the ocean. I’ve worked on plenty of coastal jobs, and honestly, flashing is non-negotiable if you want any shot at keeping water out. Those “all-in-one” window tapes are overrated in salt air; I’ve seen them peel or fail after a few seasons. Metal flashing plus a tough caulk (I like NP1) holds up way better. Sometimes the old methods really do outlast the fancy new stuff, especially when you’re dealing with storms off the water.
I hear you on the tape. I tried to save a few bucks and just used the “fancy” waterproof tape stuff when we swapped out windows last spring. Looked great for about six months… then the first nor’easter hit and I found out just how much water can sneak in. Ended up pulling everything out and going with metal flashing too. Lesson learned—sometimes the old-school way is the only way, especially when you can smell salt in the air from your driveway.
Metal flashing’s saved my bacon more times than I care to admit, especially anywhere near the coast. I’ve seen that “miracle” tape peel up or get brittle after a couple of seasons—never mind what happens when salt air gets in there. Had a job out in Marshfield a few years back, customer wanted to skip the flashing and just use the high-end tape the window supplier swore by. Looked fine until the first winter storm, then we were chasing leaks for months. Ended up redoing it with good old aluminum flashing and proper caulk. Not glamorous, but it works.
Curious if you noticed any corrosion on your window hardware after that nor’easter? That’s been another headache for me—seems like even “coastal rated” stuff starts pitting after a year or two unless you go all-in on stainless or at least powder-coated finishes. Vinyl windows seem to hold up best overall, but I’ve had mixed luck with the seals over time. Ever try fiberglass frames? They’re pricier, but I’ve heard they don’t warp or pit as much.
Funny thing—sometimes folks want the fancy new tech, but nothing beats old-school methods for keeping water out. If you can smell salt in the air, you gotta build like it’s always hurricane season. Do you do anything different with sill pans or weep systems, or just stick with what’s tried and true?
Funny thing—sometimes folks want the fancy new tech, but nothing beats old-school methods for keeping water out.
I actually went the “fancy new tech” route with my last set of windows—used that butyl tape plus a PVC sill pan, no metal flashing at all. We’re right on the coast too. Two years in, no leaks so far (knock on wood), and the tape’s still tight. Maybe it’s luck or the brand, but I’m not totally convinced metal’s always needed if you layer things right and pay attention to the details. Hardware’s another story though—my “coastal rated” latches started pitting after one winter, so I get what you mean there. Next time I’m splurging for stainless, for sure.