Yeah, hardware corrosion can sneak up on you fast. Another thing to watch is sealant—regular silicone tends to degrade quickly near salt air. I've switched to marine-grade polysulfide sealants and they've held up much better so far...
Good call on the polysulfide sealants—definitely a step up from regular silicone. A few extra points from my experience:
- Stainless steel hardware labeled "marine-grade" (316 stainless) is your best bet against corrosion. Even then, give it a quick freshwater rinse every now and then to prolong its life.
- Consider drainage paths carefully. I've seen plenty of coastal windows installed without proper slope or weep holes, causing water to pool and accelerate corrosion and rot.
- Aluminum frames can be tricky near saltwater. If you're using aluminum, make sure it's anodized or powder-coated—bare aluminum won't last long at all.
- Don't underestimate the value of regular inspections. Catching minor issues early saves a ton of headaches later.
Had a client once who ignored minor corrosion signs for years... ended up replacing entire window units instead of just hardware. Expensive lesson learned.
Couldn’t agree more on the regular inspections—saved my bacon more than once. I’d add, don’t trust “marine-grade” labels blindly; I’ve seen some sketchy hardware rust in a season. Your drainage point is spot on. Water always finds a way... usually the worst one.
Your drainage point is spot on. Water always finds a way... usually the worst one.
Yeah, tell me about it—water’s like a magnet for trouble. I’ve learned not to trust “marine-grade” anything unless I can actually see how it’s holding up after a winter or two. Had a set of hinges that were supposed to be rust-proof, but they started flaking by spring. Regular checks and not getting lazy with caulking have made the biggest difference for me. You’re right, don’t take labels at face value.
Funny you mention “marine-grade”—I’ve had similar letdowns. Picked up some “weatherproof” window latches a couple years back, and by the next rainy season, they were pitted and sticking. Makes me wonder if it’s really about the label or just how things are installed and maintained. Do you ever try different brands or just stick with regular checks and recaulking? Sometimes I think the prep work matters more than the hardware itself...
I’ve wondered the same—labels like “marine-grade” sound reassuring but don’t always deliver. I tried swapping brands a couple times, thinking maybe it was just a bad batch, but honestly, the stuff still corroded unless I really stayed on top of cleaning and sealing. Prepping the surface and making sure everything’s bone dry before caulking seems to help more than any fancy label ever did. But then again, I’m starting to think nothing’s truly maintenance-free near the coast... anyone actually find hardware that holds up long-term?
Can’t tell you how many times I’ve been fooled by “marine-grade” promises. My house is about 40 years old, and the original hardware was all steel—looked tough, but three winters in, it was pitted and ugly. I figured swapping to stainless would solve it, but nope… even the “316” stuff started showing rust stains after a couple seasons of salt spray. Not as bad, but still not what I’d hoped.
Here’s what’s worked best for me, step by step: First, I always remove every trace of old caulk and gunk. If there’s even a hint of moisture, I wait a day or two—patience pays off. Then I use a little denatured alcohol to wipe down the surface before laying down new sealant (I’ve had better luck with polyurethane than silicone, but both have their quirks). Finally, I go over the fasteners with a dab of clear nail polish or that liquid electrical tape stuff. Sounds silly, but it actually helps slow down the corrosion.
Nothing’s truly maintenance-free, at least not around here. I’ve just accepted that every spring and fall, I’ll be out there with a brush and some WD-40, checking for trouble spots. One neighbor swears by bronze hardware—says it turns green but never actually fails. Tried it on my shed doors and he might be onto something, though it’s pricey and not the look everyone wants.
Funny thing is, my old wooden storm windows lasted longer than any of the “weatherproof” aluminum ones I tried later. Sometimes I think the old ways really did know best… or maybe they just didn’t expect things to last forever.
If anyone’s found a magic solution, I’m all ears—but for now, my best advice is just don’t skip the prep, and expect to do a little upkeep now and then. It’s just part of living by the water, I guess.
That’s wild about the “marine-grade” stuff not holding up. I always assumed 316 stainless was the gold standard for coastal areas, but maybe that’s just marketing hype. I’m still on my first year in this house, so I haven’t seen much rust yet, but I’m already paranoid after reading stories like yours.
“Funny thing is, my old wooden storm windows lasted longer than any of the ‘weatherproof’ aluminum ones I tried later.”
This actually makes me wonder if it’s worth going back to some wood elements, even if they need more attention. Have you ever tried sealing wood with modern products, like those fancy marine varnishes? I’m tempted to test it on a window frame or two, but not sure if it’s just throwing money at a lost cause.
Also, for the caulking—do you have a favorite brand of polyurethane sealant? There are so many options and mixed reviews online, I get decision fatigue just standing in the aisle.
I get where you’re coming from—standing in the sealant aisle makes my brain short-circuit too. I’ve bounced between Sikaflex and DAP Dynaflex for polyurethane, but honestly, both have held up about the same for me (though Sikaflex is a pain to clean up). As for wood, I actually tried Epifanes marine varnish on my porch rail last year. It looked great and held up through one brutal winter, but I can already see spots where I’ll need to touch up. Still, it’s way better than the peeling latex paint I had before. Sometimes it feels like you’re just picking your battles with this stuff...
Yeah, you’re not wrong about picking your battles. I’ve seen Epifanes hold up better than most, but nothing’s bulletproof on a porch rail—especially near the coast. At least you’re not scraping off latex every spring... that stuff flakes if you even look at it sideways. Stick with what’s working, and don’t sweat the touch-ups too much. It’s just part of the deal living out here.