Thermal curtains do help, but I've found their effectiveness really depends on how well they're hung. If there's even a small gap at the sides or bottom, drafts still sneak through. Still beats shelling out for new windows though...
Funny thing, I’ve seen folks spend a ton on fancy thermal curtains only to leave a half-inch gap at the bottom, which pretty much defeats the purpose. Reminds me of a job I did a few winters back—old 1920s house with big, drafty windows. The owner had these thick curtains, but there was daylight peeking in around the edges. We ended up adding some simple magnetic strips along the sides and a weighted rod at the bottom. Not pretty, but it cut down on the drafts way more than I expected.
I get the appeal of new windows, but the price tag can be brutal, especially if you want something that actually performs well. Sometimes a little creativity with what you’ve got goes further than people think. Still, nothing beats the feel of a properly installed window... but until then, I guess we make do with what we have.
- Magnetic strips and weighted rods definitely help, but I’ve seen some folks go overboard trying to “hack” their old windows when a little targeted investment actually pays off.
- Sometimes, it’s worth considering a decent-quality storm window insert. Not as pricey as full replacement, but you get a real bump in comfort and energy savings.
- I’ve patched up plenty of drafty windows with caulk and weatherstripping—cheap, fast, and works better than most folks expect. Curtains don’t always do much if the leaks are really bad.
- One thing I’d push back on: if the window frames themselves are rotted or warped, no curtain or strip is gonna help for long. At that point, repairs or partial replacements might be unavoidable.
- That said, totally agree—if your budget’s tight, making do with creative fixes is better than freezing all winter. Just keep an eye out for bigger issues hiding behind those drafts... sometimes it’s not just about comfort but avoiding bigger repair bills down the road.
If you’re looking to stretch your dollar, I’ve seen folks get a lot of mileage out of storm inserts, like you mentioned. Last winter, I did a job on a 1920s bungalow—original wood windows, frames still decent but leaky as heck. Here’s what worked:
1. Scraped out the old, cracked caulk.
2. Hit the frames with fresh exterior-grade caulk—don’t skimp there.
3. Added foam weatherstripping around the sashes.
4. Installed acrylic storm inserts on the inside.
All in, the homeowner spent maybe a quarter of what new windows would’ve cost, and the drafts dropped off big time. That said, if you poke at the frame and your screwdriver sinks in... you’re past the point of quick fixes. I get why people want to avoid full replacement, but sometimes you’re just delaying the inevitable, and rot only gets pricier to fix. Still, for solid old frames, these steps can buy you years. Just gotta be honest about what you’re working with.
That’s spot on about knowing when a quick fix is enough and when it’s just throwing money at a lost cause. I had a client with a 1940s cape—those old double-hungs were drafty but the wood was still solid. We did almost exactly what you described: stripped the old caulk, filled in with fresh stuff, added weatherstripping, and popped in magnetic interior storms. The difference in comfort was huge, and the heating bill dropped noticeably.
One thing I’d add: don’t forget to check for gaps where the window meets the sill. Sometimes folks miss that, and you end up with cold air sneaking in from below. A little foam backer rod and caulk there can make a world of difference.
But yeah, if the frames are mushy or you see signs of carpenter ants or rot, it’s time to bite the bullet. Otherwise, these steps really can buy you years, and you don’t have to shell out for full replacements right away.
But yeah, if the frames are mushy or you see signs of carpenter ants or rot, it’s time to bite the bullet. Otherwise, these steps really can buy you years, and you don’t have to shell out for full replacements right away.
Couldn’t agree more about not rushing into a full window replacement unless you’re seeing real structural issues. Funny thing, I was at a job last winter where the homeowner was convinced every window had to go just because of some drafts. Turned out, half the problem was old, cracked glazing putty and some gaps around the sills, exactly like you mentioned. A weekend with a heat gun, some new putty, and a few tubes of caulk made a night-and-day difference—without touching the actual windows.
I will say, sometimes folks expect miracles from weatherstripping and caulk, but if the window’s warped or never sat square in the opening to begin with, there’s only so much you can do. I’ve seen some pretty wild DIY “fixes” too—like stuffing paper towels in the sash gaps. Effective? Maybe for a week...
That magnetic interior storm idea is underrated, by the way. They’re not cheap, but they can save a lot of hassle if you don’t want to mess with exterior storms every season. I wish more people knew about those.
One thing I might add—don’t skip checking under the window trim inside. Sometimes you’ll find old insulation (or none at all), and a little spray foam can help with those mystery drafts that seem to come from nowhere.
At the end of the day, as long as the wood’s solid and you’re not fighting years of water damage or bugs, I’m all for stretching the life of original windows. There’s something satisfying about bringing old stuff back to life instead of just yanking it out and starting over. Plus, your wallet will thank you... at least until the next project comes up.
- Totally agree that jumping straight to full window replacement is usually overkill unless there’s clear rot or bug damage. I’ve saved a lot of money over the years just by addressing the basics.
- Quick wins I’ve found:
• Scraping and re-glazing panes—if the putty’s cracked, it’s amazing what a difference fresh glazing makes.
• Caulking the outside joints and any gaps. Sometimes you can literally feel the draft disappear as you go.
• Adding (or replacing) weatherstripping on sashes. Not a cure-all, but it helps.
- I’m with you on the limitations, though. If the window frame’s out of square or you’ve got major warping, all the caulk in the world won’t fix it. I tried shimming one of mine a few years back. Helped a little, but there’s only so much you can do if the wood’s bowed from decades of settling.
- The magnetic storms are worth a look if you’re in a cold climate. Pricey, but I’d rather deal with those than lugging heavy exterior storms up a ladder every fall. Plus, you don’t mess with the curb appeal.
- One thing I learned the hard way: don’t forget to check for old, crumbly insulation under the trim. My 1920s place had basically nothing there. A couple cans of low-expansion spray foam made a huge difference during winter.
- There’s definitely satisfaction in keeping old windows going, especially if they’re original to the house. That said, I get why some folks just want to swap them out and be done, especially if you’re dealing with lead paint or never-ending maintenance.
- End of the day, it’s all about balance—fix what you can, replace what you have to, and don’t underestimate how much a little elbow grease can stretch your budget.
I’m right there with you on the satisfaction of keeping old windows going. I just bought my first place (built in the 50s) and was honestly shocked how much difference just replacing the weatherstripping made—drafts almost disappeared. But I ran into a weird issue: some of my sashes are painted shut, so even getting to the glazing is a project. Has anyone tried those magnetic storms on single-pane windows? The price makes me hesitate, but hauling big storms up a rickety ladder sounds like a recipe for disaster.
some of my sashes are painted shut, so even getting to the glazing is a project
Been there. My place (1947) had half the windows painted shut when I moved in—took a utility knife, some patience, and a lot of muttering under my breath to get them open. As for magnetic storms, I tried them on two drafty old windows last winter. They made a noticeable difference, but honestly, the upfront cost stung a bit. The install was way easier than wrestling big storms, though, and no ladders involved. If you’re handy, you could DIY acrylic panels with magnetic tape for less, but it’s not quite as sleek.
Yeah, getting those old sashes unstuck is a rite of passage with these houses. I used a putty knife and a lot of patience too—sometimes I wonder if the previous owners thought paint was some kind of window lock. About the magnetic storms, I get what you mean on the cost. They’re definitely not cheap up front, but I noticed my draftiest room felt way less icy after installing them. Still, if you’re watching your budget, the DIY acrylic panel route is pretty solid. I went that way in my back room—picked up sheets from the hardware store and used magnetic tape. Not as invisible as the commercial ones, but it did the job.
Have you tried just reglazing and weatherstripping before going with storms? Sometimes a bit of elbow grease there gives decent results without much cash outlay. Curious if anyone’s found a long-term solution that doesn’t involve dropping serious money or tearing out the old wood windows entirely...