When I needed to swap out the old drafty windows in my 70s ranch, I was kinda dreading the cost. Ended up finding a trick that saved me a chunk: I bought standard-sized windows (like, the ones big box stores always have in stock) instead of custom ordering. Then, instead of hiring someone for the whole job, I paid a handyman just to help with the install—way cheaper than a full-service window company. The only catch is, you gotta be okay with a bit of extra trim work or shims if your opening isn’t a perfect match, but honestly, it looks fine unless you’re super picky.
Curious if anyone else has done something similar or found other ways to cut down the cost? I’m all ears for more hacks, especially if you’ve got tips for older houses where nothing is square.
Yeah, I tried something kinda like that on my ‘68 split-level. Measured the rough openings, then just went for the closest standard size at Lowe’s. I had to use a ton of shims and honestly, the trim work took me way longer than I thought it would. But man, the savings were real. My only regret? Didn’t realize how out-of-whack the old frames were until I started, so one window looks a little crooked if you stare too long. Still, worth it for the price difference. Anyone else end up with weird gaps behind their new trim?
Yeah, I ran into the same thing when I swapped out the windows in my ‘72 ranch. The frames weren’t even close to square—looked fine with the old trim, but new windows made every flaw pop. I had to use a mix of shims and some creative caulking to hide the worst gaps. Ended up re-doing one piece of trim because it bugged me every time I walked by. Definitely saved a chunk of change, but wow, it was more fiddly than I expected. Guess that’s just old houses for you.
The frames weren’t even close to square—looked fine with the old trim, but new windows made every flaw pop.
This is the story of every house built before disco. Here’s what I run into all the time:
- Shims become your best friend. Sometimes feels like you’re building a Jenga tower just to get the window plumb.
- That “creative caulking” you mentioned? I call it art class for grown-ups.
- Never trust old trim to cover new sins. Sometimes you gotta bite the bullet and redo a piece (or three).
Honestly, it’s always more work than folks expect... but hey, at least you know your windows are solid now.
Yeah, the trim thing gets real fast. I thought I’d just pop the old windows out and slide the new ones in, but lining everything up took way longer than planned. The shims were everywhere, and I had to redo two pieces of trim that just wouldn’t sit right after. Didn’t help that nothing in my place is level—guess that’s what you get with a 60-year-old house.
I agree, it’s more work than it looks on YouTube. Still, paying a handyman for just a few hours was worth it compared to the quotes I got from window companies. Not perfect, but I’ll take it for the savings. If I ever do the back rooms, I might just live with a little extra caulk and call it good.
Didn’t help that nothing in my place is level—guess that’s what you get with a 60-year-old house.
Man, I hear you on that. My place is pushing 70 and I swear the floors have more waves than the beach. When I swapped out the kitchen window, I figured it’d be a Saturday project—pop out, pop in, done before lunch. Nope. Turns out, when every wall and sill is slightly off, “shimming” is less of a step and more of an art form.
Here’s how it ended up for me:
1. Measure the opening at least three times (seriously, each time I got a different number).
2. Dry-fit the new window and realize it’s not close to square with anything else in the room.
3. Start shimming like crazy—side, bottom, top—then step back and realize it looks crooked from outside anyway.
4. Remove half the shims and try again because now the lock won’t close.
I get what you’re saying about trim too. The stuff never goes back like it came off. My trick was to label every piece when I took it off, but even then, there was always one that just didn’t fit right no matter what I did.
I will say, hiring a handyman for just the tricky bits (like getting it level enough that you don’t notice from across the street) saved my sanity. The window companies wanted almost double for install vs just buying the windows myself. Not sure if they’re using gold-plated nails or what.
About caulk—I’m with you there. If you stand far enough away, a bead of caulk hides all kinds of sins. I’m starting to think “good enough” is sometimes all you need, especially if you’re not planning on selling soon.
Curious if anyone else has found any little hacks for old houses? Next up for me is tackling a basement window and honestly...I’m half tempted to just brick it up instead.
That sounds all too familiar. My house is from the late ‘50s and nothing is square—walls, floors, you name it. I’ve had the same experience with window installs feeling like a never-ending puzzle. Measuring three times and still getting different numbers? Been there, and it makes you question your tape measure (or your sanity).
Honestly, I think you nailed it with “good enough.” Sometimes perfection just isn’t realistic in these older places, especially when you’re working solo. I used to stress about every little gap or uneven line, but after a while, I realized that a little caulk and some decent trim work does wonders. If it looks straight from ten feet away, that’s a win in my book.
I do agree about hiring help for the trickier parts—it can save a lot of frustration. Window companies charge a ton for install, but sometimes having someone who’s done it a hundred times is worth the extra bucks on the tough jobs.
That basement window? I get the urge to brick it up... but sometimes just getting something weather-tight and secure is enough. Don’t let perfect be the enemy of done.
Man, that “nothing is square” thing really hits home. I swear, my house has one level spot and it’s the kitchen table (and only after I shoved a coaster under a leg). Ever tried shimming a window so much you start wondering if you’re just building a new wall? I’ve found a little patience and a LOT of caulk can hide sins, but like you said, sometimes good enough is just fine. Do you ever get tempted to just slap some foam board over the old basement windows and call it a day?
Do you ever get tempted to just slap some foam board over the old basement windows and call it a day?
Honestly, I’ve done it in a pinch—just wedged some rigid foam in there one winter when the draft was brutal. It wasn’t pretty, but wow, the difference in temperature was immediate. The trick is sealing the edges with tape or caulk so you don’t just redirect the airflow somewhere else. Not perfect, but for a basement you barely use, sometimes “good enough” really does win out.
I’ve definitely gone the foam board route too, especially when the budget’s tight. It’s not winning any beauty contests, but it does stop those drafts cold. I always wonder, though—does anyone ever try layering something like bubble wrap or even heavy curtains over the foam for extra insulation? I’ve seen people mention it online, but never tried it myself. Curious if that makes a noticeable difference or just adds more clutter down there.