I get wanting to double up on insulation, but honestly, I found that layering film and foam strips just made it harder to get a tight seal. The foam sometimes pushed the film out of place, and then I’d get even more wrinkles or gaps. One winter, I switched to using rope caulk around the window edges instead—less mess in the spring, and it peels right off. Not the prettiest, but at least there’s no sticky residue to fight with when the weather warms up.
Rope caulk, huh? I’ve tried that a time or two, but my old house has windows so drafty I’m convinced they were designed for cross-ventilation in January. One winter, I got desperate and shoved an old beach towel into the gap—looked ridiculous, but it did the trick until I could get some proper caulk.
I get what you mean about the film and foam strips turning into a wrestling match. The first time I tried that combo, I ended up with more wrinkles than my grandma’s bedsheets and a sticky mess to boot. Honestly, the only thing that worked for me (besides replacing the window, which wasn’t happening anytime soon) was stacking up those heavy thermal curtains and just pretending I lived in perpetual twilight.
Rope caulk’s not winning any beauty contests, but if it keeps out the chill and doesn’t leave sticky gunk everywhere, it’s a solid win in my book. Sometimes you just gotta pick your battles when it comes to these old houses...
- Drafty windows are the bane of every old house owner, I swear. Rope caulk’s definitely a go-to for me—fast, cheap, and you can peel it off when spring rolls around.
- I’ve seen folks try everything from bubble wrap (seriously) to those clear plastic shrink kits. The shrink film works if you’re patient, but yeah, it’s not exactly wrinkle-free unless you’re a heat gun ninja.
- Heavy curtains help, but they don’t stop the air sneaking in at the frame. If you want a quick fix that doesn’t scream “emergency towel stuffing,” rope caulk or even painter’s tape in a pinch does alright.
- Not pretty, but neither is shivering through dinner... Old houses keep us humble, that’s for sure.
I’m with you on the rope caulk—it’s the fastest fix I’ve found that actually seals up those weird gaps. Anyone tried those magnetic window insulator kits? Wondering if they’re worth the hassle for a winter or if it’s just another thing to mess with.
- Magnetic kits work, but only if the window frame is clean and flat. Any warping or old paint, they don’t stick well.
- They’re more of a project than rope caulk—takes longer to line everything up right.
- I’ve seen them help with drafts, but not as much with sound or heavy leaks.
- If you’ve got old wood windows, sometimes the magnets don’t seal tight enough. Vinyl frames are better for these.
- Ever tried the shrink film kits instead? They’re a bit fiddly with the hairdryer but seal pretty tight. Wondering if anyone’s had those peel off mid-winter...
Shrink film kits are hit or miss for me. I used them on our draftiest windows last winter—old wood frames that have seen better days. They actually sealed up tighter than I expected, but getting the film smooth was a pain. I had to redo one panel because it got all wrinkly and made the window look like a funhouse mirror. The hairdryer part is weirdly satisfying, though.
Only issue I had was with the adhesive. It stuck fine at first, but by late February, one corner started peeling up. Not sure if it was the cold or just my shoddy prep, but it let in a sneaky little draft until I pressed it back down with some extra tape. Didn’t fully come off, but it wasn’t perfect.
Compared to the magnetic kits, I’d say the shrink film is less fussy about the shape of the frame. You don’t have to worry about warping or old paint as much. But if you open your windows in winter for any reason, it’s a pain—you basically lose the seal and have to redo the whole thing.
Rope caulk is still my go-to for quick fixes. It’s not pretty, but it fills weird gaps and you can just pull it off in spring. The shrink film looks a little cleaner, though, if you can get it smooth.
Honestly, none of these are a forever solution. Old windows just seem determined to let in cold air no matter what you do. I keep telling myself I’ll save up and get them replaced, but then something else in the house breaks...
Honestly, none of these are a forever solution. Old windows just seem determined to let in cold air no matter what you do.
I get where you’re coming from, but I’ve had better luck with a combo approach. Here’s what’s worked for me:
- Use clear silicone caulk for the worst gaps—less messy than rope caulk, still removable if you score it.
- Shrink film on the inside, but also add foam weatherstripping to sashes (especially on double-hungs).
- For stubborn corners where adhesive peels, a dab of hot glue can hold things till spring.
It’s not a permanent fix, but it kept my 1920s windows way less drafty last year. Not as pretty as new windows, but less painful on the wallet...
That’s a solid combo—especially the hot glue trick for corners. I’ve found that layering solutions like you described really does make a difference, even if it’s not perfect. One thing I’d add: thermal curtains. They’re not a fix for the window itself, but they can noticeably cut down on drafts in older homes, especially at night. Not exactly high-tech, but sometimes low-tech works best when you’re dealing with 100-year-old windows...
Thermal curtains definitely help, but have you ever tried using bubble wrap on the glass itself? I know it sounds weird, but I stuck some up last winter and it made a surprising difference. Not exactly pretty, but for a drafty rental, it did the trick. Curious if anyone’s had luck with those removable caulk strips—do they actually peel off cleanly in spring, or am I asking for trouble?
Bubble wrap on windows—honestly, I’ve seen that trick save folks a ton of hassle in old drafty houses. Not the prettiest, like you said, but hey, comfort over style sometimes, right? I’ve had a few clients swear by it during brutal winters.
About those removable caulk strips—mixed bag in my experience. They’re great for a season, especially if you’re not allowed to do anything permanent. Most brands do peel off cleanly if you’re patient and the frames are in decent shape (paint that’s already flaking is another story). I did have one rental where the caulk left a sticky residue, but a little rubbing alcohol took care of it. Just don’t rush the removal when spring rolls around—slow and steady makes a difference.
You’re definitely not asking for trouble as long as you test a small section first. For quick fixes, these little hacks can really take the edge off during the cold months. Sometimes it’s the low-tech solutions that get you through...