@nlopez32 Thanks for sharing that. Quick question about the WindPact Plus: Are those the ones with vinyl frames? And do you know if they offer aluminum frame options as well? We have a situation where a couple of our window openings are quite large, and one contractor suggested maybe using aluminum frame windows (which can be made in larger sizes more easily). I wonder if CWS or PGT aluminum would be better in that case.
Anyone have experience with vinyl vs aluminum frames in Florida? I’m torn because vinyl is more energy efficient (non-conductive) and no rust issues, but aluminum can be very strong and has slimmer frames sometimes. We’re a bit near the coast (salt air) so I’m also concerned about corrosion on aluminum. Any thoughts?
@snowboarder85 Good topic. Both CWS and PGT offer aluminum frame options in their impact lines. For example, PGT has an aluminum version of their WinGuard windows, and CWS I believe has an aluminum impact window line as well (their website shows both vinyl and aluminum products).
Vinyl vs Aluminum Frames in Florida: Each has pros and cons:
Strength & Size: Aluminum is structurally stronger, so for very large window spans or certain shapes, aluminum frames might be necessary or at least allow a slimmer profile. If you have a huge picture window or an 8-foot tall window, some contractors might lean towards aluminum to meet structural requirements without making the frame super thick. Vinyl windows can be reinforced (often with internal metal stiffeners) to handle a lot too, but there are size limits.
Corrosion: Since you mentioned being near the coast, this is a consideration. Modern aluminum windows are usually well-coated to resist corrosion (powder-coated, etc.), and the hardware should be stainless steel. But over many years, aluminum can corrode, especially if the coating gets chipped or salt accumulates. Vinyl won’t corrode, which is a big plus in salty, humid air. We have a salty environment and I’ve seen older aluminum window frames (like 20+ years old) with pitting and corrosion. Vinyl won’t have that issue, though you should still wash them occasionally to remove salt build-up on the surface.
Thermal performance: Vinyl is much more thermally insulating. Aluminum conducts heat, so aluminum frames can allow more heat/cold transfer through the frame. To combat this, good aluminum windows in Florida are usually “thermally broken” (they have a non-conductive break in the frame that reduces heat transfer). But vinyl generally will have a better U-factor (insulation value) in the frame. Since we get brutal sun and heat, vinyl helps there.
Aesthetics: Aluminum frames tend to be thinner, which some people like (more glass, less frame visible). Vinyl frames are usually thicker to provide the strength needed. This is somewhat model-dependent; some newer vinyl designs are getting slimmer. If you have a modern architecture house, you might lean aluminum for the look. Traditional or any style, vinyl usually looks just fine though (most are white or bronze, etc., and look like typical window frames).
Movement/Expansion: Vinyl can expand a bit in heat (all materials do, but vinyl more so than aluminum). Good designs account for this, so it’s not usually a problem. But really large vinyl windows might have more noticeable expansion/contraction. Aluminum is more dimensionally stable under temperature changes.
In my home, I went with vinyl for all windows (PGT vinyl ones) even for some fairly large windows, and they’ve been great. PGT and others wouldn’t sell them if they couldn’t handle it. If I had something like a huge multi-panel sliding door or a storefront-style window, maybe then aluminum.
Since your contractor specifically brought it up, ask them what the size or design pressure concern is that makes them suggest aluminum. It could be that one or two openings are near the max size for vinyl. One approach could be: use aluminum frames just for those particular openings and vinyl for the rest. However, mixing frame types might result in slightly different look (frame profile differences) or color variation, so get clarity on that.
Some homeowners prefer the consistency of one material throughout. Others don’t mind if say the big patio sliders are aluminum and the rest are vinyl, etc.
If salt corrosion worries you, ensure any aluminum windows have a robust finish and consider periodically rinsing them with fresh water (sounds nerdy, but it helps prolong them). For vinyl, just ensure the hardware (locks, etc.) are stainless or corrosion-resistant.
So in short: if your windows are within vinyl’s capability, vinyl is usually the go-to for residential due to energy efficiency and corrosion resistance. Aluminum is chosen either for aesthetic preference or structural needs. I’d lean vinyl if possible, but trust a bit in what the engineers say for any large spans. You could also get a second opinion from another installer on whether those big windows can be done in vinyl or not.
Just wanted to add an anecdote on dealing with the big box stores vs local installers: We initially got a quote from Home Depot’s installation service out of curiosity. Home Depot was offering Simonton windows (branded as Simonton 6500 series, I think). The quote actually came in higher than two of the local window companies’ quotes for comparable windows. It seems Home Depot basically subcontracts local installers anyway, and they tack on their margin. The salesperson was friendly but the price wasn’t anything special (I recall it being something like $1,400 per window for non-impact, which was higher than my local quotes by a lot).
So, going through Home Depot or Lowe’s might seem convenient, but you might pay more than going direct to a window company. I ended up not using them. Instead, I hired a local company directly (that local company in fact installs a lot of Simonton and PGT windows for people around here).
I have heard of people using Window World too for budget reasons. My coworker did Window World for his house (non-impact, though). He got a very low price per window (~$400 each installed), but he said the process took forever and the quality of install wasn’t the greatest (some messy caulking, etc.). They also didn’t include things like painting the exterior trim, so he had to do some paint touch-ups himself after. He was okay with it given the cost, but he told me “if I had to do it again, I might spend a bit more for a company that handles all the details.”
So my takeaway: sometimes paying a bit more gets you a smoother experience and better finish work. The cheapest options are rarely the best in this kind of home improvement, especially for something as important as windows.
To echo @cooking518, we also considered Lowe’s and Window World and decided to stick with a specialized window company in the end. One thing I noticed – the big chains often have promotions (like buy 2 get 1 free, or 0% financing for X months). Those can be tempting, but the base price they start from might be inflated so the “deal” isn’t that great.
In any case, we prioritized the reputation of the installer. We read a ton of reviews on Google, Nextdoor, etc., before choosing. We ended up with a mid-sized local company that had stellar reviews, and they delivered as promised.
A quick note on DIY vs professional: I briefly flirted with the idea of installing a couple of windows myself (I’m pretty handy). But after seeing what the pros did – removing interior trim carefully, using spray foam insulation, aligning everything plumb and level, anchoring into the concrete block with big Tapcon screws, then stucco patching outside – I’m glad I didn’t attempt it on my own. It’s not impossible DIY, but with permitting and the risk of water leaks if not flashed/sealed right, I felt better leaving it to licensed installers. The warranty also is better when they install; if I DIY-ed and something failed, that’d be on me.
So unless someone is very experienced with window installs, I’d recommend professional installation for a full home’s windows. One or two windows as a personal test project could be okay, but an entire house is a big job.
Has anyone here used the PACE program (Property Assessed Clean Energy) or something like Ygrene financing for their windows? I’m considering that to finance impact windows because I don’t want a big upfront hit and my credit isn’t the best. From what I understand, PACE lets you finance through your property tax bill. Any experiences or warnings?
@nmiller16 I did use a PACE financing program (mine was through Ygrene) for my window project in 2021. It definitely has pros and cons:
Pros:
Easy approval: They didn’t even check my traditional credit score in the usual way. Approval was based more on home equity and tax payment history. I got approved pretty quickly for the amount I needed.
No immediate cash outlay: I was able to do the project with zero down out-of-pocket at the time. The payments are rolled into my property taxes as an assessment. So I started effectively paying a year later via my tax bill. This was great because I wouldn’t have been able to afford all impact windows upfront otherwise.
Tax deductible interest: In some cases, the interest paid through your property taxes might be tax-deductible (as it can be considered a local government assessment). Check with a tax advisor on this though; it’s a bit of a grey area. I treated mine as deductible.
Cons:
Interest rate: The interest rate was relatively high. Mine is about 6.99% fixed. That’s higher than a standard mortgage or home equity rate. Over the long run, I’m paying quite a bit in interest. If you can get a bank loan or HELOC at a lower rate, that could be better.
Lien on the property: PACE financing puts a lien on your home (since it’s tied to the property tax). This can complicate things. For example, if you sell the house, in theory the PACE lien stays with the house (the new owner would take over payments). But practically, many buyers or their lenders will require it to be paid off during the sale. So it could limit some potential buyers or require you to clear that loan when selling. Some mortgage companies also don’t like PACE liens being senior to the mortgage. It’s something to be aware of.
Annual payment bump: My property tax bill went up significantly due to the assessment. I have it escrowed with my mortgage, so my monthly mortgage payment went up to account for it. It’s fine for me, but someone unaware might get bill shock. It’s basically like taking a loan and having to pay it over, say, 10-20 years (mine is a 20-year term) via taxes. So, on a $20k project at ~7%, I’m paying a few thousand per year in extra taxes.
Overall: PACE (Ygrene) did what it was supposed to: allowed me to get the work done when I didn’t have another financing option. But I will end up paying quite a bit of interest over time. I might try to pay it off early if I can (you can pay extra on it via the tax collector, but only at certain times of year).
If you have decent credit or equity, definitely compare a home equity loan or line of credit, or some window companies' 0% financing offers, or even a personal loan. Some window installers partnered with lenders like Synchrony or GreenSky to offer promotional financing – sometimes 0% for 12-18 months or reduced interest. Those can be a better deal if you qualify.
But if those aren’t available, PACE/Ygrene is a tool to consider. Just go in eyes open about the long-term cost. And check if your county/city currently allows it – some places have put moratoriums on new PACE loans due to consumer complaints. Pinellas/Hillsborough do have PACE available as far as I know.
Hope that perspective helps!
We personally opted for a HELOC (Home Equity Line of Credit) to pay for our windows. Our bank gave us a rate of around 4% (this was a couple years ago; rates might be different now). We liked that because we could draw exactly what we needed and pay interest only on that. We did consider the 0% financing deals some companies offered, but those usually had a short term (like a year or 18 months). If you can pay it off in that time, those are great (essentially free money for a while). We weren’t sure we’d pay it off that fast, so we went with a HELOC to have a longer-term payoff.
One thing to remember: with any financed home improvement, ensure that it doesn’t stretch you too thin. Windows are super important, but you don’t want to be “house poor” because of them. Work out what the monthly or annual cost is and make sure it fits the budget.
By the way, I’ve heard that Karoly Windows (and some others) have those 0% for 18 months type deals. @streamer44 mentioned using that. If you can commit to paying it off in 18 months, that’s effectively an interest-free loan – very good. Just be careful: if you don’t pay it off in time, the interest might backdate at a high rate.
In summary, lots of ways to finance:
Cash (best if you can, no interest),
Contractor financing (0% promo or low APR for set term),
HELOC/home equity loan (uses your house equity, decent rates),
PACE/Ygrene (easy approval but higher cost),
Personal loan (usually higher interest than home equity because unsecured).
Choose what works for you, but definitely consider the total cost with interest in each scenario.
I’m glad someone brought up the My Safe Florida Home program earlier. I want to second that as a possible resource for Florida homeowners doing wind mitigation improvements like windows.
We applied to the My Safe Florida Home program in 2023. Our house was built in 1995, and we qualified because it was in a wind-borne debris region and we hadn’t gotten upgrades yet. The program gave us a 2-to-1 matching grant up to $10k for improvements. In our case, we used it to offset the cost of impact windows and a new impact-rated garage door. We had to pay $5k, and the state granted $10k (so $15k total project covered). It was a bit of paperwork and required a wind mitigation inspection before and after, but it was absolutely worth it.
For anyone reading, definitely check if the program is active and funded. These grants can run out if funding gets exhausted, but the state sometimes renews them. It basically comes from an initiative to harden homes against hurricanes (which saves insurance payouts in the long run).
Things to know:
You typically have to get an initial wind mitigation inspection through the program (they might reimburse or cover that).
The improvements you do (windows, doors, roof, etc.) often have to be done by approved contractors and you submit proof/invoices.
They match your spending: e.g., spend $1, get $2 from state, up to certain limits.
There are deadlines and steps to follow, but it’s manageable.
This program significantly lowered our out-of-pocket cost. We probably wouldn’t have been able to do all impact windows at once without it.
So if you or anyone is considering impact windows and maybe other upgrades (roof, doors), look into My Safe Florida Home program (as long as your home is owner-occupied, assessed under a certain value, and built before a certain year – last I recall it was before 2008 you qualify because newer homes already meet a lot of code).
It’s a game changer if you get it. Free money (well, taxpayer money put to good use 😉).
That’s awesome, @geocacher77. I’m sure future readers will appreciate that tip. A lot of people don’t know about those programs. I checked and unfortunately my home was built in 2010 so it didn’t qualify for the grant (it’s too new and already built to stronger code). But for those with older homes, definitely investigate that.
Also, another small incentive: the Federal Energy Efficient Home Improvement Tax Credit. Starting 2023, it’s quite improved. You can get 30% of the cost of windows back as a tax credit (up to $600 per year). I took advantage of this when I did my windows. For example, if you spend $6000 on qualifying windows, you could get $600 off your federal tax bill. Windows need to meet ENERGY STAR requirements, which most good Low-E double-pane windows will.
It’s not a rebate you get immediately, but when you file taxes you use Form 5695 for the credit. I got the full $600 credit for my 2024 taxes after installing the windows in 2024. It’s nice – basically the government acknowledging energy efficiency improvements.
So combine that with any state programs or insurance savings, and you can chip away at the net cost of your project.
Yes! We claimed the window tax credit as well. In our case, we maxed out the $600 for the year of our project. Just keep the receipts and the manufacturer’s certification statement (our installer provided a spec sheet that indicated the windows were ENERGY STAR qualified).
It’s not huge relative to the total cost, but hey, $600 is better in my pocket than not. 😁 Also, that federal credit resets each year (with new annual limits up to 2032), so theoretically if someone did windows in phases across two years, they could claim up to $600 each year.
We also got a break on sales tax thanks to an incentive: Florida had a sales tax exemption on impact windows and doors for a period (I think it started in 2022 and was extended into 2023). So our impact window purchase was actually sales-tax free. That alone saved us 7% (Florida state and county sales tax) on the material cost portion. Check if that’s still in effect when you buy – it was called the “Home Hardening Sales Tax Exemption.” It’s scheduled to last until at least June 2024. So @crypto728, if you purchase soon, you might not have to pay sales tax on the windows, which is a nice few hundred dollars saved as well.
It’s like there are a bunch of little incentives and if you stack them, it really helps: state grant (if you qualify), sales tax exemption, federal tax credit, insurance discount, etc. Makes the ROI on impact windows better.