I got my windows through Home Depot’s installation service. They used Simonton windows. It was an OK experience – not the cheapest (Home Depot subcontracts local installers and probably takes a cut). I paid ~$10k for 8 non-impact Simonton windows installed. If I had gone direct to a window company, I suspect I could have saved some money. But at the time I trusted the big store. Install went fine, but communication was a bit slow (had to go through HD reps who then talk to the installer). In the end, windows are good, just maybe I paid a bit of a convenience premium.
For those who got multiple quotes, how did you politely decline the ones you didn’t choose? I always feel bad after spending time with a sales rep, but obviously you can only pick one. I usually just tell them “thanks, I chose another company” and most understand. One rep kept pushing and I had to just be blunt. Anyone do it differently?
@breeze_wright – I just told the other companies that I decided to go with a different provider, and thanked them for their time. You’re not obligated to justify too much. Most were courteous; one tried to undercut last-minute, but I’d already signed with my preferred installer. It’s normal for folks to get multiple quotes, so I wouldn’t feel too bad. The good companies won’t pressure you when you say no.
I decided to get impact windows after Hurricane Irma blew out a couple of my old ones back in 2017. Even though Tampa Bay dodged the worst, it was enough to send debris at my windows. That experience convinced me – so when I could afford it, I upgraded. It’s a big reason a lot of us Floridians bite the bullet on cost: one bad storm can wreak havoc if you have weak windows. Now I feel much safer each hurricane season.
Don’t forget to get a wind mitigation inspection done after you install those impact windows/doors. @sports_mary mentioned an insurance discount – to actually get it, you usually need a wind mit inspection report that shows all openings are protected. It’s a quick inspection (separate from the county inspection). I hired a home inspector to do mine for ~$100 and sent it to my insurance company. They knocked a nice chunk off my premium. If you already had one when you bought the house, update it whenever you harden more openings.
One thing for new windows: keep all the documentation and stickers that come with them until you’re sure you won’t need them. The installer should give you paperwork with the product approvals, warranty info, etc. This can be helpful for insurance or future owners. And make sure you get the finalized permit paperwork or proof of inspection passing from your contractor. Usually they'll give you a sticker on the electrical panel or a paper from the county for your records.
I have an older (1965) wood-frame house in Seminole Heights. When we did our windows, the installers found some wood rot in the old window frames/sills. They had to replace some wood and rebuild a bit before putting the new windows in. It added about $800 extra to the cost (for materials and labor to fix those sections). Just a heads up: if you have an older home, build a little contingency budget for that kind of thing. A good installer will fix it right, but it’s extra work/time. In contrast, my friend’s newer block home had zero add-on costs since concrete openings either fit or they just add some stucco patch.
Loving my new sliding glass patio door that came with the window package. It was pricey (like $4k by itself), but it’s night-and-day compared to the old aluminum slider. The new one is impact-rated, heavy duty, but it glides so smoothly and has better locks. I also feel a lot more secure that it won’t just blow in if we get a storm. If you’re doing windows and have an old slider, consider doing it together if budget allows.
One small thing I noticed post-install: the Low-E glass has a slight tint/reflection. At first, I was worried it looked a little darker from outside (has a slight greenish tint if you look at it at an angle). But that’s normal for Low-E coatings. Now I don’t even notice it. From inside, the light is still clear. But if anyone is super particular about window tint, just be aware modern energy-efficient windows often have this. Personally, I like that you can’t see in as clearly during the day; it adds privacy.
We decided to eliminate the grids (muntins) on our new windows to have a cleaner look and more light. Our old windows had those colonial grids and we were tired of them. The window company didn’t charge extra to leave grids out (in fact, sometimes grids cost extra if you want them). Now the house looks more modern and the view out is nicer. If your HOA doesn’t require grids, it’s something to consider for style and possibly saving a bit on cost.