I'm up in the northern part of Pasco County (near San Antonio). Not exactly Tampa metro, but still within the broader region. One thing I noticed was some Tampa-based companies were reluctant to travel out to me for a quote (I guess it's a bit out of their typical range). Karoly Windows actually did come out and gave me a quote, as did one local guy from Hernando County.
The quotes were similar; Karoly's was around $5,500 for 8 non-impact windows, and the local guy was $5,800. I ended up going with the local company mainly because they had done a lot of work in my neighborhood and were recommended by a neighbor. But I was impressed that Karoly was willing to come all the way out here and the price was competitive.
My project: 8 windows (mix of sizes, vinyl double-pane, non-impact) on a one-story ranch. The job was done in a day and a half. Total came to $6k in the end because I added one small kitchen window last-minute (I paid a bit extra for that one). So let's say about $750 per window average. Being more rural, the county permit process was actually very quick (small county = less backlog). Inspector literally just glanced at a couple of windows and the paperwork and signed off. Easiest part of the whole thing.
I'm very happy with the result. Even out here, we get our share of wind and storms, so having solid new windows is a comfort. And it's noticeably quieter inside now. It might take longer to find a contractor willing to come out to the "boonies," but it's worth it if you do.
Quick note on maintenance and warranty for whoever is interested: Modern windows don't need a lot of upkeep, but do keep an eye on a few things.
If your windows have moving parts (sliders, single/double-hung), keep the tracks clean of dirt and grit. Occasionally vacuum them out and maybe spray a little silicone lubricant on the tracks or balances. This keeps them opening smoothly.
Check the caulking around the exterior after a year or so. Sometimes the caulk settles or develops a hairline gap as the house shifts slightly. I did a quick once-over and touched up one small spot of caulk around one window.
For impact windows, some manufacturers suggest checking the screws that hold the frame in (since high wind loads can potentially loosen things over time). I haven't found any issues, but before each hurricane season I visually inspect that nothing looks amiss.
As for warranty: Our windows came with a "limited lifetime" warranty on the vinyl frames and a 20-year warranty on the insulated glass (for seal failures), plus 10-year on moving parts. That's through the manufacturer. The installer gave 2 years on labor.
I filed all that paperwork but also saved a digital copy of the contract which states the warranty. It's important because if, say, 10 years down the line a seal fails (i.e., you see fog between panes), I might get a replacement sash for free (though I'd pay labor if beyond labor warranty).
My advice: Register your warranty with the manufacturer if they offer that, and keep your invoices and permit info. A neighbor had a seal fail on one window after 5 years and got it replaced under warranty, so it does happen.
@tea_steven Good points. One thing I noticed is that some "lifetime" warranties only apply to the original owner. So if you sell your house, the next owner might not get the same coverage (or it might drop to a shorter term for them). Something to keep in mind if you plan to move.
Also, our contract said the warranty would be void if we didn't pay in full or if any unauthorized modifications were made, etc. Pretty standard, but good to abide by.
And yeah, many installers cover labor for a limited time. Ours was 5 years labor coverage. After that, if a window part fails, the part is free from manufacturer but you'd pay the service call. We figured if something major is going to go wrong, it'll likely be in the first year or two anyway.
If you have certain windows that get a ton of sun, consider asking about different Low-E glass options. We have a west-facing wall with 4 large windows in our living room that got brutal afternoon sun. We opted for a high-performance Low-E glass on those (a slightly heavier tint/coating than standard). It made a difference – those rooms are significantly cooler in the afternoon and the glare is reduced.
From outside, you can barely tell a difference – the west windows are a tad more reflective, but nothing crazy. From inside, there's a faint tint but we got used to it quickly; now it just looks normal.
Our installer offered this once I mentioned our living room was baking every afternoon. Not all companies might bring it up, so homeowners should mention it if they have a room with intense sun. There are options like grey or bronze tint too, but we stuck with a clearer Low-E, just the top tier kind. It was maybe $30 more per window, and absolutely worth it.
@matthewcoder3090 Nice. We did something similar for our south-facing front windows. We went with the slightly stronger Low-E (I think it was the same 366 coating you mentioned). Our windows have a subtle reflective look from the outside now – a slight blue-green mirror effect under direct sun. I actually like it; it provides a bit of privacy in the daytime. From inside, you don't really notice any tint, but we definitely notice less heat.
The cost difference for us was negligible (like a couple hundred total on a $15k job). I'm glad we did it because our living room would turn into an oven in summer afternoons before.
So yes, customizing the glass by orientation is a smart move if you have that one side of the house that bakes in the sun. Most folks just go with whatever default glass comes with the window, but those little tweaks can improve comfort even more.
Many have talked about getting rid of old windows, but I'll throw in a quirky thing I did: I kept two of my old aluminum windows to repurpose. One I gave to a friend who used it to add a window in his shed. The other one I'm planning to turn into a little cold frame for starting plants (basically a mini-greenhouse box).
The installers were hauling the rest to recycling anyway, and I figured why not reuse a couple. They are flimsy compared to the new ones, but for non-critical uses like a shed or a DIY project, they can work.
If you're into that kind of thing, let your crew know beforehand so they handle those carefully for you. Wear gloves if you move them – old aluminum frames can have sharp edges or shards of glass.
Of course, 90% of people will just want them gone (I had a pile of 15 junky windows leaving my property and good riddance). But a small part of me likes that two old windows got a second life instead of ending up in a dump.
All in all, our full window replacement was one of the best investments we've made in our 2001 house. It wasn't cheap (~$15k for 12 windows in 2023, Pinellas County), but the house feels updated and we no longer dread hurricane season as much. To anyone on the fence, I'd say go for it when you can afford it.
Just do your homework on the contractor (as this thread has emphasized) and don't cut corners on quality. You'll notice the difference every day in comfort, quiet, and peace of mind.
Did any of you have to repair drywall or trim inside after the installation? Our consultant said they might need to remove some interior trim and that they'd put it back, but I'm wondering if it usually requires repainting around the windows.
I'm okay doing some paint touch-ups, but I'm debating if I should hire a pro painter after the windows are done to make everything look perfect. How "finished" did your interior look when the installers left?
@meganw35 In our case, we did have to do a bit of paint touch-up inside. The crew pried off the wood trim (casing) around the windows and nailed it back on after installing the new ones. That left some nail holes and small gaps which they caulked, but we still had to paint over the caulk and putty spots. If you have colored walls or trim, you'll likely need to repaint those areas for it to look seamless.
If you have drywall returns (no wood trim, just drywall edges), they might get scuffed or chipped during window removal. Our neighbor had that situation and ended up with some minor drywall repairs around a couple of windows.
None of the window companies we got quotes from included interior painting as part of their service. It's typically on the homeowner. I'm fairly handy with a brush, so I spent a weekend after the install doing all the touch-ups myself. If you're not into that, budgeting for a painter might be wise.
Outside, if your house paint is older, the areas where they patch stucco will stand out unless painted. We had fresh stucco patch around each window that was a slightly different color until I painted it to match the house.
So short answer: expect to do some finishing work (or hire it out) for the best result. The windows will be in and sealed, but making the surrounding areas pretty again may require a little effort post-install.
The inspection part worried me beforehand, but it turned out to be straightforward. The county inspector came the day after installation. He basically:
Checked that each new window had the Florida approval sticker (we left all the stickers on as instructed).
Looked at a couple of the mounting screws to ensure they were properly embedded (our installers left one screw cover off per window for this reason).
Verified our hurricane protections. We had impact windows, so that was easy – he just noted that on the paperwork. My neighbor who did non-impact had to show the inspector his accordion shutters were in place for each window.
The inspector spent maybe 20 minutes total. He signed the permit card and gave us a thumbs up.
One thing he reminded me: don't remove the NFRC or Miami-Dade approval stickers until after inspection. And indeed, as soon as he left, we went around peeling stickers off the glass. Goo Gone helped get the adhesive off.
After that, the permit was closed and we were done. It was my first time doing a permitted home project, so I was nervous, but it was fine.