Tampa Bay Homeowner: Energy Efficient Windows (Low-E vs. Tinting) & Frame Materials Advice Needed

Welcome to the forum @elizabethhill590! I’m also in the Tampa Bay area (Clearwater) and went through a similar decision last year. My home is a 2004 build and had those original aluminum frame single-pane windows (really inefficient!). I debated the tint vs replacement question as well, and ultimately I decided to replace the windows with double-pane Low-E glass units.
For me, the biggest factor was that my old windows were leaky and the frames would actually sweat with condensation because aluminum conducts heat like crazy. I figured adding tint might reduce some heat coming through the glass, but it wouldn’t fix the draftiness or the heat conduction through the metal frames. Plus, a few of my old window seals were failing (foggy glass), so it made sense to upgrade.

I went with vinyl frames with Low-E double-pane glass. The vinyl frames don’t conduct heat nearly as much as aluminum, so the inside of the frame doesn’t get hot or cold like before. And the Low-E coating on the glass definitely helped with the radiant heat from the sun. I can stand by my west-facing windows in the afternoon now without feeling that intense radiant heat.

After the install, I noticed an immediate difference. The house stays cooler and my AC doesn’t kick on as frequently. In terms of energy bills, I’d say I saw roughly a 15-20% drop in my summer electric bill. For example, my August bill went from around $250 the previous year to about $200 after the new windows. It’s not all just the windows (we also added some attic insulation), but I’m sure the windows were a big part of it.

Comfort-wise, it’s night and day. Less hot spots near windows, and even the noise from outside is lower (bonus!). Vinyl vs fiberglass vs aluminum: I chose vinyl mainly for cost and energy efficiency. Fiberglass was appealing (strong and durable, can handle heat well) but it was maybe 20-30% more expensive at the time, which I couldn’t justify. Aluminum was actually the cheapest but we ruled that out because of poor insulation and we wanted better efficiency and no more corrosion issues (salt air can corrode aluminum over time here).

So far, a year later, I’m very happy. No warping or issues with the vinyl even in the heat, and the Low-E glass has a slight tint but nothing very noticeable – it’s nice because it doesn’t make the house dark, but still blocks a lot of heat and UV. My wife is happy that our furniture and curtains aren’t fading like they used to, thanks to the UV blockage.

If your budget allows, I’d lean towards replacement with Low-E windows, especially if your current windows are original from 2006. They’ve had a good run of ~18-19 years. But of course, it’s an investment. I spent about $12k for 10 windows (including two large sliders) with a local contractor. There are also sometimes energy rebates from the electric company for new windows (check TECO’s site – they had some program for efficient windows when I did mine).

Curious to hear what others say, especially anyone who chose the tint route.

I’m in Tampa (Wesley Chapel area) and I actually tried the window tinting route before deciding on any full replacement. My house is a 2010 build with double-pane windows, but they were the basic clear glass kind (no Low-E). Around 2018, I noticed the summer heat was really driving up my bills and making some rooms uncomfortable, especially those with big windows facing west. I wasn’t ready to drop big money on new windows since mine were only ~8 years old at the time, so I experimented with professionally installed solar window film on the hottest side of the house.
The results were a mixed bag. On the positive side, the tint definitely reduced the glare and heat coming through those windows. The rooms were noticeably cooler in the afternoon than before – I’d say maybe a 5°F difference in the room temperature just from that film. My AC ran a bit less in those rooms and I did see a slight improvement in my electric bill, but nothing as dramatic as what folks report with full replacements. Maybe I saved about 5-10% on the bill? The big win was comfort though: it was less sauna-like by the windows, and I could actually sit near them without roasting.

However, there were a few drawbacks. First, the window tint makes the room a tad darker. The film I chose was a medium tint (not super dark, because I still wanted natural light). But even with a medium grade, it’s like wearing sunglasses indoors – not a big deal for me, but my wife noticed the difference in light. At night, the windows with film looked a little more reflective from inside, kind of a slight mirror effect, which took some getting used to.

Another thing: window film doesn’t insulate the frame or fix any air leaks. In my case, the windows were in decent shape, but I realized the frames (vinyl frames) still let some heat in and out. Also, one of my windows developed a seal leak a year later (unrelated to the film, just bad luck with the window), and the film started to peel at the corner where the condensation got in. That annoyed me because I had to replace that piece of film.

In 2022, I finally bit the bullet and replaced the windows on the two sides of the house that get the most sun. I went with Low-E double-pane windows (vinyl frames) for those. Honestly, the difference between the filmed old windows and the new Low-E windows was noticeable. The new ones perform better – probably because not only do they have Low-E coating, but also new seals, argon gas between panes, and better frames. The rooms stayed just as cool or cooler, with the bonus that the new windows look crystal clear (no tint shading) and zero drafts.

So, my take: If your windows are in good shape and relatively modern (like your 2006 ones might be okay still) and you just want to cut the heat and glare, tinting can be a cost-effective stopgap. It’s way cheaper upfront. I spent maybe $800 to tint several large windows versus the quote of $8,000+ to replace them. It gave me some of the benefits (lower heat, UV protection, less glare). But in the long run, I ended up replacing anyway because nothing beats a full upgrade in terms of overall efficiency and also reducing noise and drafts.

Given your house is pushing 18-19 years old, you might start seeing the seals fail or other issues soon like I did. So a full replacement might be worth it to you now rather than doing tint now and windows a few years later. But it really depends on budget and how bad your current windows are.

One more note: If you do decide to tint, get a good quality film and professional install for best results. And as for Low-E vs tint visual: Low-E glass usually has a very slight tint or reflectivity (some say it looks a tiny bit greenish or bluish, but I hardly notice mine). Tint can be chosen at various levels. So think about how much you mind the change in appearance too.

I’m eager to hear if anyone has just stuck with tint long-term in Florida and been happy, or if replacement always ends up being the solution eventually.

Hey all, chiming in from St. Petersburg. I’m a bit of a home improvement nerd and went through a lot of research on frame materials and such for windows in our humid coastal climate. Our home was built in 2005 and we replaced our windows in 2021, so relatively recently. We had the original aluminum frame single-pane windows (yep, 16-year-old single panes, awful for energy).
We considered vinyl vs fiberglass vs aluminum frames. Here’s what we found and ultimately decided:

Aluminum: Common in Florida, especially older builds, because it’s strong (good for large window openings and impact resistance). But, as folks mentioned above, aluminum is a terrible insulator. It lets heat through easily, and we often had condensation on the inside of the frames in the summer (cold AC inside + humid hot outside = water on aluminum). The only way I’d consider aluminum again is if it had a thermal break (some newer aluminum windows have a plastic thermal break to reduce heat transfer) and if I absolutely needed the strength for big spans or hurricane impact windows. But even then, in a coastal environment, aluminum can corrode from salt air unless properly coated. We had a bit of white corrosion (oxidation) on our old frames.

Vinyl: Very popular for replacements because vinyl is much more insulating (doesn’t conduct heat), and it’s immune to corrosion (plastic material, so salt air is no problem). Good vinyl windows also have welded seams and are pretty durable. The downsides: in extreme heat, vinyl can soften or warp if it’s not high quality or if the window is very large and dark-colored. We made sure to choose a reputable brand with a good track record in Florida so it could handle the sun. Also, vinyl can discolor over time (turn yellowish) if the formulation is cheap. But again, a good manufacturer will have UV inhibitors to prevent that. We liked that vinyl is usually the most affordable option too.

Fiberglass: These are kind of the premium option. Fiberglass frames are very strong and stable (they expand and contract very little with temperature changes, so the seals on the glass tend to last a long time). They also insulate well (not quite as much as vinyl, but far better than aluminum). And you can paint them if you want, or they come in different colors, whereas vinyl is usually white or beige (unless you get special colors). The downside is cost – the quotes for fiberglass windows were significantly higher, like 25% more than vinyl in our case. Another thing: not as many local companies offer fiberglass, we found only a couple brands through specific dealers.

In the end, we went with vinyl double-pane Low-E windows (with argon gas fill). We got quotes from a few places and ended up using a local installer who recommended vinyl for our needs. Two years later, we’re happy. No issues with warping or discoloration, and they still look new. We’re near the coast (about 2 miles from the Gulf) and the vinyl holds up fine to the humidity and salt — just rinse them once in a while.

To the point about energy savings: Absolutely yes, we saw a difference. Our home is about 2,000 sqft, and our summer electric bills dropped from ~$220/month to ~$180/month on average after the new windows. Part of that could also be that we got rid of some air leaks (the old windows had crappy weatherstripping). Now, the house holds the cool air better.

I’ll add that we also considered hurricane impact windows (since Tampa Bay gets storms), and we did go with impact-rated glass in our new windows. That required some reinforcements in the frames (the vinyl frames we got have internal metal reinforcement for the larger sizes). Impact glass is basically two layers of glass with a laminated layer, sort of like a car windshield, so it adds a bit to energy efficiency too (like a built-in additional layer). It also blocks UV and some sound. But if someone doesn’t need impact glass or has shutters, you could get non-impact and maybe save some money.

As for Low-E vs tint: In our case we jumped straight to new windows with Low-E, no tint. The Low-E coating (we got a double-coating, sometimes called Low-E366 or similar) blocks a ton of heat but still lets light in. Our living room is bright but much cooler than before. No more feeling like a greenhouse. I have friends who did tint on their older windows, like @richardsnorkeler did, and a couple are happy enough with it, but a couple others eventually had bubbling or peeling issues after a few years (maybe due to the constant heat on the film).

One friend had an interesting comment: after he tinted, the glass got hotter to the touch on the outside, because the film was absorbing the heat. He worried that might stress the glass. It didn’t crack, but it’s something to think about: Low-E tends to reflect more heat outward, whereas some tints absorb the heat (then dissipate it). If your windows are dual-pane, check that adding film won’t void the warranty or cause issues. Usually it’s fine if the film is designed for dual-pane, but some types can cause thermal stress.

Anyway, in Tampa’s humid coastal climate, my vote goes to replacing old aluminum windows with quality vinyl (or fiberglass) Low-E windows. It tackled the heat, the drafts, and even helped with humidity control (less air exchange with outside). We run a dehumidifier less often now, because the house doesn’t get as clammy – I suspect the old windows let in a lot of moist air that we don’t notice anymore.

Hope that perspective helps! It’s a big project, but if you plan to stay in your home a while, it’s worth it.

This thread is super helpful. @elizabethhill590, I’m kind of in the same boat so I appreciate you asking this. My house is in Apollo Beach (south Hillsborough County) and was built in 2012. So it’s a bit newer than yours, and it actually came with double-pane windows with a basic Low-E coating (I think the builder used PGT windows or something standard for that time).
Even with Low-E double-pane already, I felt like the house was heating up a lot by afternoon. I considered adding window tint to cut more heat. I haven’t replaced my windows (they’re only 13 years old), but I did a few things:

I put solar film on two big east-facing arch windows that get the morning sun blasting in. They were causing a lot of heat and fading our hardwood floors. The film made a noticeable difference in cutting the glare and UV. Those rooms are cooler in the mornings now and the floors aren’t getting bleached by the sun. I used a high-quality ceramic tint (supposed to reject a lot of heat without being super dark), got it professionally installed.

For the rest of the house, I didn’t tint, but I did install some cellular shades inside and planted a couple of shade trees outside (where possible). Those things combined with the existing Low-E glass seem to be enough for now.

From this partial experience: even with already having Low-E windows, adding tint to certain problem windows gave incremental benefit. Our power bill maybe went down like $20 in the summer, but it’s hard to tell exactly because that also depends on how much we run the AC. At least the comfort is better and I can tell the AC isn’t cycling as much during those peak sun hours.

I haven’t had any issues with the tint film in 3 years since installation – no bubbling or peeling, but again these were on good double-pane windows. I made sure the film was compatible with double-pane (some films can cause issues if they trap too much heat in the glass). The installer (a local window tint company in Tampa) gave a lifetime warranty on the film and glass breakage coverage, which was reassuring.

I’ll admit though, reading others’ posts is giving me “window envy” 😅. Newer windows apparently have even better tech now (some have triple-layer Low-E, better seals). Since mine are 2012, they’re okay but not top-of-the-line. Eventually I’ll replace them, maybe in the next 5-10 years. When I do, I’d probably stick with vinyl frames too. I like the fiberglass idea but unless prices come down, vinyl is fine if you get a decent brand.

Also, has anyone noticed external condensation on new Low-E windows? My neighbor got all new windows last year (I think they used Karoly Windows & Doors, coincidentally – I remember the yard sign). He told me sometimes in the early morning, the outside of his windows look fogged up. He was concerned at first, but the installer told him that’s normal with energy-efficient windows – it means the glass is keeping the heat inside (on cool mornings the outside glass gets dew because it’s cooler than the air). Just curious if others in humid Tampa have seen that with Low-E?

Anyway @elizabethhill590, keep us posted on what you decide. Sounds like replacing windows has a higher upfront cost but more overall benefits, while tint is cheaper and can help but maybe not as much. It might come down to budget and how long you plan to stay in the house. I’m staying put for a while, so I lean towards doing it right (window upgrades or replacement) when I can afford it.

Wow, thanks for all the detailed responses everyone! This is exactly the kind of info I was hoping for. It’s great to hear from fellow Tampa Bay folks who’ve been through this.
@apolloparker907, that’s awesome that your bills dropped ~20% with the new vinyl/Low-E windows. A 15-20% reduction would be huge for me since my summer bills are in the $300 range (old AC + these windows = energy hog 😞). If I could knock that down by even $50 a month, it adds up. Also, I hadn’t even thought about checking TECO for rebates – I will definitely look into that, thanks for the tip!

@richardsnorkeler, your story is really interesting because you basically tried both approaches (tint first, then replacement later). It kind of confirms my suspicion that while tint helps, new windows would still be a step up in performance. The point about the tint making the room a bit darker and reflective at night is noted – I hadn’t considered that. I do like my bright rooms, so that’s something to think about.

And I’m sorry to hear one of your window seals failed. That’s actually one of my worries: some of my windows already have a little condensation inside after big temperature swings, which I suspect means the seal is starting to go. If I just tint and don’t replace, I’ll still eventually have to deal with that.

@bmoore98, huge thanks for the breakdown on frame materials. You sound like you did your homework! I learned more about vinyl vs fiberglass vs aluminum from your post than I did googling around. The thermal break in aluminum frames is something I read a bit about – some high-end aluminum impact windows have it, but like you, I feel why bother with aluminum unless absolutely necessary for structural reasons. I’m definitely leaning away from aluminum now. Vinyl seems the sweet spot for price/performance, and it’s encouraging to hear a couple of you in coastal areas have had vinyl for a few years with no issues.

Fiberglass does sound great (especially the stability part – expansion rates similar to glass and such), but yeah, the cost… might be out of my range. If I were in my “forever home” maybe I’d splurge, but for this house I think good vinyl ones will do.

Also, interesting note about the tinted glass getting hotter on the outside. I’ve heard that too – that some films absorb heat. My windows now are double-pane and I think the glass itself isn’t tempered (except maybe the sliding doors), so I’d be cautious about anything that could stress them.

@jennifer_river, thanks for sharing your hybrid approach. Since your windows are newer and already Low-E, your situation is a bit different but still relevant. It’s good to know even with Low-E, a bit of extra tint on problem windows can help. And yes! I’ve actually seen that exterior condensation on new windows at a friend’s house in Brandon. He had new windows (with high-efficiency glass) and in the mornings during humid months, the outside would fog up for a bit. He said the same thing – that it means the windows are so good the outside glass stays cool. If I do get new windows, I won’t be surprised to see that here too, especially being near water.

By the way, several of you have mentioned Karoly Windows & Doors as a contractor (either you used them or neighbors did). They are actually on my short list to call for quotes (them and a couple others like maybe Renewal by Andersen - though I fear they’ll be $$$). Have any of you also heard of ProTech Windoors in Tampa? My coworker mentioned them, apparently they did his windows and he was happy. I figure I’ll get 2-3 quotes and see. I definitely want someone who knows our local climate concerns (sun, salt, storms, etc.). It’s reassuring to hear positive experiences with Karoly; maybe I’ll reach out to them for an estimate and advice.

Right now, I’m leaning toward doing the full replacement with vinyl Low-E windows (and probably impact glass if I can swing it, for storm peace of mind). The tint idea is appealing mainly to save money, but I worry I’ll just be delaying the inevitable. And since I plan to stay in this house long-term (10+ more years at least), it might be worth the investment now.

Still, I’m interested in any more input – especially if someone found that just doing tint was totally sufficient or if anyone had regrets either way. And any experiences with those contractors (good or bad) would be helpful too, so I know what to expect.

Thanks again for the help so far! Keep the insights coming. This is really helping me plan out my next steps.

@elizabethhill590 That’s great news! I’m really happy you decided to go for the full replacement. It sounds like you’ve chosen a reputable company and a solid window package. Keep us posted on how the install goes – can’t wait to hear how much more comfortable your home gets!

@elizabethhill590 Congrats on taking the plunge! You’re going to love the results. My family still thanks me every summer for getting our windows done 😂. Make sure to keep those before/after electric bills to compare – it’s satisfying to see the drop. And enjoy the peace of mind this hurricane season knowing you’ve got impact windows. Welcome to the cool house club!

@charliebaker Thanks for the insight on the DIY thing! After reading your experience, I’m definitely not going to attempt the window install myself. I’ll save myself the stress and get a pro installer when I replace these old jalousies. This thread has been an eye-opener for me on so many levels. Appreciate all the shared wisdom here.

Glad to help, @ericrebel396. And I agree with everyone else, it’s awesome to hear @elizabethhill590 is moving forward with a good plan. I’ve learned a ton from this discussion too. It’s given me the push I needed to get serious about upgrading my own 80s-era windows soon. Good luck, @elizabethhill590 – looking forward to your update after everything’s in!