Simonton, PGT, or Others? Best Windows for Tampa Heat & Energy Savings

Hi @geo733, welcome! I’m in St. Petersburg and went through a similar window replacement journey last year. We ended up choosing PGT double-pane vinyl windows for our home. So far, I’ve been really happy with them.
What we noticed after installing PGT: Our house stays a lot cooler in the afternoons now. Previously, the sun beating in would make our living room almost unbearable by 4 PM. With the new Low-E glass windows, the infrared heat is greatly reduced – you can literally stand by the window at midday and not feel like you’re in an oven. Our AC doesn’t run as non-stop as it used to.

A few things about the PGT windows: they use Low-E insulating glass and argon gas between the panes. The ones we got have a U-factor around 0.29 and an SHGC around 0.21 (the installer showed me the NFRC label). In plain terms, those numbers mean they’re keeping heat out pretty well for our hot climate. We chose PGT partly because they’re a Florida-based manufacturer, so they design for our kind of weather (intense sun, high humidity, etc.). They also stand up well to our summer thunderstorms; no leaks or anything so far.

I did compare a few brands – Simonton was another I looked at, and honestly, I think both Simonton and PGT make quality vinyl windows for Florida. We went with PGT because the quote was a bit lower and our contractor recommended them for coastal regions. But I’m sure Simonton would have been good too (I’ve heard they have an excellent warranty).

Let me know if you have any specific questions about the PGTs. Overall, it’s been a big improvement for us in terms of comfort and hopefully energy bills!

Jumping in as another Tampa Bay homeowner. We had our windows replaced 6 months ago and chose Simonton vinyl windows. So @geo733, I can speak to that brand. We live in Clearwater in a 1980s block house. Our experience with Simonton has been excellent so far.
We opted for Simonton’s StormBreaker Plus series (which is their impact-rated line with energy efficiency features) because we figured, why not get the hurricane-rated glass for extra protection. Even if you don’t need impact windows, the laminated glass also provides a bit more noise reduction and UV protection. They came with a Low-E3 coating (triple-layer Low-E) and argon gas fill. The ratings were pretty good – U-factor was about 0.28 and SHGC around 0.23 on the ones we got. In this hot sun, those Low-E coatings make a difference. We no longer get that piercing heat through the glass at midday.

One thing we noticed immediately: the AC runs less and the house cools down quicker in the evening. Also, no more fading spots on our furniture near the windows, which I suspect is due to the Low-E blocking a lot of UV light.

In terms of cost, the Simonton quote was a bit higher than some others (we also got a quote for PGT and one from another brand). Simonton was a bit more expensive than PGT for us, but we decided the reputation and features were worth it. It helped that the installer we went with really trusted Simonton and gave us confidence in that choice.

So far, through one summer and the winter, the Simontons have held up great – no condensation issues, and the vinyl frames look high quality (no warping or discoloration). If you’re considering Simonton, I’d say they’re a solid choice for Tampa’s climate.

Happy to answer any questions about them!

We’re in Tampa Palms and also researching windows. I keep seeing terms like SHGC and U-factor, but I’m not totally sure what to aim for in our Florida climate. Could someone explain in simple terms? Like, is a lower SHGC always better here because of the sun? And what about U-factor? I gather those are important for energy-efficient windows, but all these numbers are making my head spin 😊.
Also, any thoughts on frame materials? We assumed vinyl is the way to go (since it doesn’t rot), but I’ve heard about aluminum and fiberglass frames too. Not sure what’s best for humidity. Any insights would be great!

Great questions @psage55! I went through the same learning curve. Here’s a quick rundown that should help:
U-Factor: This measures how well a window insulates. It’s basically the rate of heat transfer – lower U-factor means better insulation (less heat passing through the window). In cold climates you want a really low U-factor to keep heat in. Here in Florida, we still care about U-factor (to keep out the outdoor heat), but our temperature difference isn’t as extreme as up north, so U-factor is maybe slightly less critical than in, say, Minnesota. Still, look for something around 0.30 or lower if you can (many good double-pane windows here achieve ~0.25-0.30).

SHGC (Solar Heat Gain Coefficient): This one is super important for us in the Sunshine State. SHGC measures how much solar radiation (heat from sunlight) comes through the glass. It’s a number between 0 and 1; the lower the number, the less solar heat gets in. In Florida, a low SHGC is very beneficial because we have so much sun. It basically means the window’s Low-E coating is reflecting a lot of the sun’s heat away. For our climate, an SHGC ≤ 0.25 is generally recommended. My windows, for example, have SHGC ~0.21 as I mentioned, which really helps keep the house cooler.

Low-E Coatings: “Low-E” stands for low emissivity. It’s a thin metallic coating on the glass that reflects heat. Windows can have multiple layers of Low-E. You might see terms like Low-E2 or Low-E3 (meaning double or triple layer). More layers can further reduce the SHGC (good for blocking heat) and also lower the U-factor a bit. The trade-off is that adding more Low-E layers can slightly reduce the amount of visible light (your glass might be a tiny bit less clear or slightly tinted) and can also add a bit of cost. But most people don’t notice a big difference in clarity. In Florida, many of us opt for the higher performance glass (like a triple-layer Low-E) because keeping heat out is priority #1.

As for frame materials: Vinyl is extremely popular here for a reason – it doesn’t rust (unlike standard aluminum) or rot (unlike wood). Good-quality vinyl windows are durable in our humidity and require basically no maintenance. Aluminum frames are very strong (often used in older Florida homes and in some hurricane-impact windows), but aluminum conducts heat, so if they’re not a “thermal break” design, they can let a lot of heat through. Newer aluminum windows often have thermal breaks to improve efficiency, but vinyl and fiberglass inherently insulate better. Fiberglass is another option – it’s strong like aluminum but doesn’t conduct heat as much, and it handles temperature changes well. It can be pricier though. Wood frames look beautiful and insulate OK, but in Florida’s humid, termite-prone environment, pure wood windows can be high-maintenance (they can swell, rot, or need frequent painting). Many people avoid wood here unless it’s clad in vinyl/aluminum or a composite like Fibrex (used by Andersen) that is more weather-resistant.

In summary, for our climate you want low SHGC, reasonably low U-factor, and a frame material that won’t deteriorate in humidity/salt (vinyl and fiberglass are top choices, composites like Fibrex are good too). And of course, proper installation (foam insulation, sealing) is key to getting the performance those numbers promise.

Hope this helps clear things up!

@sonicbaker889 Thank you so much for breaking that down so clearly! That helps a ton. And @ericrebel396, I appreciate your Simonton insights as well. Hearing your experiences really gives me a better idea of what to prioritize.
So far, we have a couple of quotes in hand. One is actually from Karoly Windows & Doors (they’re a local contractor) who recommended and quoted us for Simonton windows (double-pane, Low-E2, argon gas, vinyl frames). The other quote we got was for PGT windows from a different company. Interestingly, the Simonton/Karoly quote came in a bit higher in price than the PGT one. It’s making me wonder: Is Simonton just more expensive, or do you all think it’s higher quality to justify the cost? 🤔

It sounds like both brands perform well in our climate, so I’m torn. On one hand, saving money with PGT is nice; on the other, Simonton has a great reputation (and a friend of mine in Orlando swears by her Simonton windows).

Another thing: The Simonton rep from Karoly mentioned their glass has two layers of Low-E coating, whereas another company said they offer a glass with three layers of Low-E for even more heat reduction. I’m not sure if having “triple Low-E” glass is worth it here? Does an extra coating noticeably help in our intense sun, or is double Low-E typically enough?

We haven’t pulled the trigger yet, so any thoughts on whether Simonton is “worth” the premium, or insights on double vs triple Low-E, would be awesome. We’re definitely aiming for energy efficiency and longevity (I’d like these windows to last decades if possible, even with all our humidity and occasional salt air). Thanks again everyone for the great info so far!

Hi all, chiming in with a slightly different perspective. I recently moved from the West Coast to the Tampa area (Seminole, FL). In my previous home (out in California), I had Milgard vinyl windows installed and loved them – they made a huge difference in efficiency there. When I moved to Florida and bought a house here, I discovered Milgard isn’t as common in this region (it was tough finding local dealers). So, for our Florida home, we ended up going with Andersen windows, specifically their Fibrex composite windows.
Our decision-making might be useful to you, @geo733. We considered some vinyl options (Simonton was on the list, as was Pella vinyl). However, I was intrigued by Andersen’s Fibrex material because it’s a composite of wood fiber and vinyl/plastic – the pitch is that it gives you the strength and stability of wood but with much lower maintenance (won’t rot in our humidity, doesn’t need painting, and isn’t supposed to warp). We got quotes from Renewal by Andersen (who use Fibrex) and yes, it was quite a bit more expensive than vinyl options. In the end, we bit the bullet because we liked the look and durability of the product.

It’s been about a year since we installed the Andersen Fibrex windows. So far, they’re performing great. No issues with the frames despite the humidity (which is what we hoped for – no swelling or mold, etc.). The Low-E glass on them made a huge difference in reducing the afternoon glare and heat in our house. I can’t overstate that – one large west-facing window we have would practically bake the room before; now it’s much more manageable with the Low-E coating doing its job.

That said, if I’m honest, I sometimes wonder if we could have gotten similar performance for less money with a high-end vinyl window. The Fibrex looks nice and is very sturdy, but some of my neighbors have vinyl (like PGT or Simonton) and their homes are just as comfortable. I think a good vinyl window these days is also built to handle Florida conditions (UV, heat, etc.) quite well.

In summary: Milgard was awesome in my last home, but here I ended up with Andersen Fibrex mostly for the durability and because I wasn’t confident how pure wood would hold up. If budget wasn’t a factor, I’d say Andersen (or their Renewal line) is excellent. But given budget is a factor for most, I wouldn’t shy away from quality vinyl brands like Simonton, PGT, etc., which are tried-and-true in Florida.

Hope that perspective helps! Each brand has its pros/cons, but the key is they should have good Low-E glass and a durable frame for our climate.

I’m in the Orlando area (close enough climate-wise) and I have a question along these lines: Are triple-pane windows overkill for Florida? One of the window companies I talked to offered an option for triple-pane glass, claiming better energy efficiency and noise reduction.
I know up north triple-pane is more common for insulation in cold weather, but here we’re dealing with heat. I’m thinking the extra pane might not provide a huge benefit for the cost, given we don’t have winter cold to keep out. Also, triple-pane units are heavier – not sure if that makes installation trickier or increases the chance of seal failure over time?

Has anyone in Tampa Bay or Florida in general gone with triple-pane windows? Did you find it worth it for the energy savings or quietness? Or are most folks sticking with dual-pane here? I’m inclined to think double-pane with a good Low-E coating and argon is sufficient, but I don’t want to dismiss the idea if there’s a case for triple-pane in our environment.

@geo733 and @diy_melissa, I can help with both of your questions. I’ve done a lot of research for my home in Apollo Beach and have some nerdy enthusiasm for this topic 😄.
1. Double vs Triple Low-E Coatings (for @geo733): In Florida, many high-performance windows come with a triple-layer Low-E (often branded as something like Low-E^3) because it gives you the lowest SHGC, meaning it blocks more of that intense solar heat. If you have a lot of west or south facing glass, the more Low-E, the better in my opinion. The downside, as mentioned, is slightly less visible light transmission – the glass might have a mild tint or reflectivity. But modern Low-E coatings are pretty advanced; even triple-coat glass is reasonably clear. I have one friend who opted for a slightly less strong Low-E (double coat) because they felt triple gave a slight greenish tint to the light. However, I’d say most people wouldn’t notice unless directly comparing. In my own case, I went with Cardinal’s LoĒ-366 glass (which is a triple-coat Low-E) on my new windows, and the clarity is great while still blocking a ton of heat. So, if one quote is offering a higher grade Low-E glass, that’s a plus for energy efficiency. Double vs triple Low-E will both work, but triple will cut a bit more heat and UV. For Tampa’s sun, I’d lean towards the better glass if budget allows.

2. Triple-Pane vs Double-Pane (for @diy_melissa): Generally, triple-pane is not very common here in Florida. You’re correct that triple-pane’s biggest benefit is in cold climates (extra layer to trap heat inside). In our hot climate, the main heat comes from radiation (sun) rather than a huge temperature gradient, so a good double-pane with Low-E does the job. Triple-pane can help somewhat with insulating against outside heat too, but diminishing returns kick in. Maybe you’d see a slight improvement in U-factor. The other potential benefit is noise reduction – the extra pane (especially if of different thickness or if there’s a laminate layer) can make the window quieter. So if you live on a busy street or under a flight path, triple-pane might be attractive. But note: laminated impact glass (even if double-pane) also cuts noise well, so there are other ways to get soundproofing.

The drawbacks of triple-pane: cost (often significantly more per window), weight (heavier windows can be harder to install and might stress the frames over time if not built for it), and as you said, more complexity (more seals that could fail). Most Florida homeowners (myself included) stick with double-pane. We just make sure those two panes are optimized with Low-E, argon, etc.

Unless you have a specific noise issue or you found a triple-pane option that’s only marginally more expensive, I’d say double-pane is usually enough in our climate. Put the money saved into, say, better quality frames or a reputable installer.

3. Frame Materials in FL (general info): Since @psage55 also asked about this, I’ll add a bit more: Florida, especially Tampa Bay, is tough on materials. Between UV, humidity, salt air (if you’re coastal), you want something low-maintenance. Vinyl is king for many because it’s immune to rot and rust. Just make sure it’s a good quality vinyl – cheap vinyl can warp or discolor under harsh sun, but brands like Simonton and PGT use vinyl formulated for our climate (UV inhibitors, multi-chambered frames for strength). Aluminum frames were very common in older Florida homes because of their strength (and they hold up to storms well). But as mentioned, aluminum conducts heat easily – I remember in my childhood home, the aluminum window frames would actually be hot to the touch in summer and sweat with condensation from the AC inside. Modern aluminum windows often include thermal breaks (a insulating material separating the inside from outside part of the frame) to reduce that heat transfer. They’re still a good option for impact resistance and if you have really large window openings (aluminum can be stronger for big spans). Just ensure any aluminum frames have a thermal break for energy efficiency, and are well-coated to resist corrosion. Fiberglass is not used by everyone, but those who have it love that it’s extremely stable (minimal expansion/contraction with temperature changes) and durable (doesn’t corrode, and can be painted). Marvin and Pella make fiberglass window lines that some folks in Florida use. The cost is usually higher than vinyl though, so it tends to be chosen in higher-end projects. Wood/Clad windows (like classic Andersen or Pella wood frames) need to be clad in aluminum or vinyl on the exterior for protection here, otherwise the humidity, rain, and insects will get to them. Composites like Andersen’s Fibrex (which @maxpoet described) are a nice middle ground – part wood, part polymer – they resist rot and don’t need painting. They do fine in humidity (no rot, no termites can eat it), and they have a bit more rigidity than vinyl. The trade-off again is cost.

So in summary, vinyl or composite frames with double-pane Low-E glass is the go-to for energy efficiency in Florida, triple-pane isn’t usually worth the extra cost, and multiple Low-E layers in the glass are definitely beneficial against our strong sun.

Hope this helps both of you! Feel free to ask for any clarifications.

@geo733 I’ll share my experience since it sounds like you’re deciding between Simonton (with Karoly) and PGT. We actually went with Karoly Windows & Doors for our window project last year, and they installed Simonton windows in our home in Palm Harbor. Yes, Karoly’s quote was a bit higher than others, but we chose them due to their strong reputation and we liked the quality of the Simonton product they offered.
I can report that the Simonton windows are fantastic so far. Karoly installed the Simonton StormBreaker Plus series for us (we wanted the impact glass because we’re very close to the coast). The installation team did a top-notch job – very precise, used spray foam insulation around the frames, and made sure everything was sealed tight. They even adjusted a couple of our slightly crooked openings so the windows would shut perfectly.

Performance-wise, the new windows made an immediate difference. Our house is near the Gulf, so salt air was a concern for us. The Simonton windows Karoly put in came with stainless steel hardware (locks, balances, etc.), which is a must in coastal areas to prevent corrosion. After a year, I see no signs of rust or any degradation, which is a relief (our old cheap aluminum window locks would get rusty often). The vinyl frames on the Simontons have held up great under the sun too – no warping or fading.

In terms of energy efficiency: even with impact glass (which can sometimes have slightly higher SHGC due to the laminate layer), our windows have noticeably reduced heat gain. Last summer, despite the brutal sun, our living room was significantly cooler. And like @ericrebel396 said, the UV protection is real – we had a rug near a window that used to fade; after the window replacement, the fading pretty much stopped.

As for Simonton vs PGT, honestly I think both are excellent for Florida. Simonton might be a tad more expensive, but I feel their build quality and warranty (I believe lifetime on vinyl/frame and 20 years on glass unit for original owner) gave us peace of mind. PGT being local is great too – I know many neighbors with PGT who are happy. We kind of agonized over the same choice and ultimately went Simonton because Karoly recommended them strongly for our needs (and we trusted Karoly based on lots of positive reviews).

No regrets here – we paid a little extra, but we have a quieter, cooler house, and the windows survived this past year’s thunderstorm season without a hitch. I think in your position, both options are good; maybe it comes down to which contractor you trust more or small differences in the window specs. From my side, I can vouch that Karoly + Simonton was a winning combo.

Good luck and let us know what you decide!

Wow, thank you all! This thread has been incredibly helpful and reassuring.
@meganw35, that detailed breakdown was amazing – exactly what I needed. The explanation of Low-E coatings and triple-pane vs double-pane makes it clear that I should prioritize the glass coatings and not worry about triple panes here. And you confirmed my hunch that vinyl or composite frames are the way to go in our climate.

@cyclist20, hearing your firsthand experience with Karoly and Simonton (especially in a coastal environment) really eases my mind about the durability. I’m slightly inland (Brandon area), so salt air is a bit less of an issue for me than it is for you, but humidity is everywhere here so it’s good to know the Simonton vinyl and hardware hold up. The fact that you saw such improvements in comfort and that Karoly took care with installation is a big plus in favor of that option.

Given all this, I’m now leaning towards either PGT or Simonton for the brand (leaning Simonton if budget allows, thanks to the positive feedback) and I’ll make sure to get the highest performance Low-E glass available. I definitely want that low SHGC for our west-facing windows because the afternoon sun is brutal in my house too.

I also realize how important the installer is. It sounds like a quality installation (using foam, sealing, etc.) can make or break the performance. So I’m factoring that in heavily. Based on everything, I’m considering sticking with Karoly for Simonton, or possibly giving ProTech Windoors (another local company I’ve heard mentioned) a call to compare, since it sounds like @psychology_mario had a good experience with them.

I’ll be sure to keep everyone posted on what we end up doing. I really appreciate all the input – it’s helped my wife and I feel much more confident moving forward. This forum rocks!

Hello folks, new member here. I’ve been lurking but wanted to share our recent experience, as it might add to the discussion. We actually just replaced all the windows in our Clearwater home last month. We went with PGT WinGuard vinyl windows (the impact-resistant line) because we wanted both energy efficiency and storm protection. We used ProTech Windoors for the installation. They weren’t the cheapest option, but their workmanship was excellent 😃.
Our house had 20-year-old single-pane aluminum windows (very common in FL homes from that era), and the difference after installing the new PGTs is like night and day. Even with the impact glass (two panes of glass with a laminated layer), the energy efficiency is great. The PGT WinGuard windows we got have similar Low-E glass and argon fills as the non-impact ones, so the U-factor and SHGC were both in the Energy Star range for Florida. I think the SHGC was around 0.24 on ours, U-factor 0.28-ish – pretty good considering they’re hurricane rated.

A few observations from my side:

The house is quieter now. We live near a busy road, and the new impact windows dampen the traffic noise significantly. We weren’t even thinking about noise reduction when we chose them, so that was a nice bonus.

The interior of the house stays cooler and more stable in temperature. Before, some rooms would get much hotter than others due to sun exposure. Now the temperature difference is minimal. My wife commented that she’s not needing to run fans in the west-facing bedroom in the afternoons anymore.

We did end up paying a premium for the impact feature (for us it was worth it to skip having to put up storm shutters during hurricane season, plus the year-round peace of mind). In rough numbers, I’d say each impact window was maybe 15-20% more cost than a non-impact equivalent. It adds up, but again, we valued the safety and convenience.

ProTech Windoors (the installer) did a great job with the installation and handling all the permitting. They even helped us pick tinted Low-E versus clear Low-E options for certain windows (we chose a slightly darker tint Low-E for the big south-facing sliders to cut even more glare). Really professional team; our project finished on schedule and on budget.

If anyone’s on the fence about impact vs. non-impact windows, I’d be happy to share more of our thought process. For us, it boiled down to: we’re not directly on the water, but we do live in a storm-prone region. We liked the idea of not rushing to put up shutters if a storm comes while we’re out of town, etc. And knowing the windows themselves are tough gives some extra sense of security (there have been a few break-ins in nearby neighborhoods, and impact glass is much harder for a burglar to break through).

Overall, very satisfied with the PGT + ProTech Windoors combo. Energy efficiency-wise, we’re already seeing the benefits now as the days get hotter. I’ll have to compare our Duke Energy bill from last May to this May to quantify it, but it’s visibly cooler and more comfortable.

@psychology_mario Thanks for sharing your experience! I’m in South Tampa and while our area doesn’t strictly require impact windows (we have hurricane shutters we can deploy), I’ve been seriously considering going the impact route for the convenience and added security. Your points about not having to rush for shutters and the burglary deterrence are pretty compelling.
I have a couple of follow-up questions: Did you find that the impact glass made any difference (good or bad) in energy efficiency compared to regular insulated glass? I’ve heard some say that laminated impact glass can slightly reduce efficiency because the laminate might absorb some heat, but others say it’s negligible if you have Low-E. Sounds like your SHGC and U-factor were still great, so maybe not an issue.

Also, you mentioned cost being ~15-20% more for impact. That aligns with what I’ve heard. I’m debating if it’s worth it for us. We do have all the shutters, but putting them up is such a pain (and honestly, if a storm pops up quick, I worry I won’t have time).

Finally, I’m glad to hear ProTech Windoors treated you well. They’re one of the companies on my shortlist to call for quotes. How was the pricing with them (if you don’t mind)? You said not the cheapest – did you compare them with others? I just want to gauge if their quality is coming at a big premium or just a small one. Feel free to PM me if that’s better, or if you’d rather not say, no worries.

Thanks again for the info! Very helpful.

@jennifer_river Great questions. To answer in order:
Energy Efficiency of Impact Glass: In our case, the impact windows have virtually the same energy performance as the non-impact version. The difference is the inner layer of the glass is laminated for impact resistance. Our PGT WinGuard windows with Low-E/argon have an NFRC-rated U-factor and SHGC almost identical to PGT’s EnergyVue (non-impact) series. The Low-E coatings do the heavy lifting for blocking heat. If anything, the laminated glass might even block a bit more UV. We haven’t noticed any extra heat – the house is much cooler now than before. So I’d say there’s no downside efficiency-wise; just make sure you get the Low-E glass on the impact windows (which most companies offer standard now). In short: impact vs non-impact, the glass performance was a wash for us, aside from the slight additional tint that laminated glass can have, but again, with Low-E it’s hard to tell.

Cost and was it worth it: We did get multiple quotes. ProTech wasn’t the absolute cheapest, but they were competitive. Another local window outfit quoted us a bit less for a non-impact window package, but when we factored adding shutters or hurricane screens, it evened out somewhat. The impact upgrade through ProTech was roughly 15% more cost as I mentioned. For us, yes it was worth it for the peace of mind and convenience. After wrestling with accordion shutters during a storm warning last year, my spouse was more than happy to pay extra to avoid that task forever 😅. Also, we think it adds a bit of resale value being able to say “hurricane impact windows throughout” if we ever sell.

Pricing Comparison: We had 3 quotes: one from a big well-known company (they were crazy expensive, like nearly 2x others, probably trying to sell a high-end brand + markup), one from a smaller company (cheapest but we didn’t have a great comfort level with their answers to our questions), and then ProTech which was in the middle. ProTech’s quote wasn’t the lowest dollar-wise, but it wasn’t unreasonable either - I’d say it was maybe 10-15% higher than the lowest quote we got, but that lowest quote wasn’t apples-to-apples (they were offering a lesser-known brand window). Given ProTech’s good reputation and the detail they provided, we chose them and feel it was money well spent. The final cost for us, if it helps ballpark: replacing 15 windows (mix of sizes, all impact, Low-E3 glass) came out to around mid-$20k range total. Not cheap, but we budgeted for it as a long-term investment in the house.

If you already have shutters and they don’t bother you, non-impact windows will save you some money for sure. But if you’re like me and dread putting them up (or worry about aging parents/relatives dealing with shutters), impact windows are such a quality-of-life upgrade whenever a storm threatens.

And yes, definitely give ProTech Windoors a call for a quote. In my experience, they were transparent and not pushy. Good luck, and let us know what you end up doing!

@jennifer_river I’ll just add my perspective too: We also debated impact vs non-impact. In our case, we decided not to go impact because we already had functional hurricane shutters and wanted to save some money. So we went with PGT’s EnergyVue (non-impact) windows. They have the same energy efficiency as PGT’s WinGuard that @psychology_mario got, just not impact-rated glass. Our installer even said if we change our mind later, we could swap in laminated panes, but honestly that would be cumbersome after the fact.
I can confirm what @psychology_mario said – energy performance is basically identical between the two versions as long as the Low-E and argon features are there. So our non-impact PGTs are keeping the heat out just as well.

One thing to consider: If you don’t get impact windows, make sure your existing shutters or storm protection are in good shape. We had ours inspected and cleaned up (some anchors replaced) when we did the windows.

For us, saving the ~15% cost was worth it since we’re relatively young and don’t mind the shutter drill when a storm comes. But ask me again in 5 years, I might be calling ProTech or Karoly myself to upgrade to impact glass if I get lazy about the shutters 😂.

Either route, just get a good installer. Sounds like ProTech treated @psychology_mario well. We used a smaller local contractor (not a big name) who did fine as well. Tampa Bay has a lot of window companies, so definitely compare.

Has anyone here tried or considered fiberglass windows in Tampa Bay? I’m in the planning phase for a remodel in Bradenton. Initially, I was drawn to the idea of fiberglass frames (like those from Marvin’s Elevate line or Pella Impervia) because of their durability and how they don’t expand/contract as much as vinyl. I know they’re often used up north, but not sure how common they are down here. The salesperson I spoke to mentioned fiberglass handles heat well and won’t warp, and can deal with humidity and salt with minimal issues (with proper powder coating, etc.).
However, the cost is higher than vinyl – not as high as wood-clad, but definitely more than say a Simonton or PGT vinyl window. So I’m torn. Is it worth paying extra for fiberglass windows in our climate? Or are today’s vinyl windows just as good in terms of longevity/energy efficiency for Florida?

Any homeowners with fiberglass window experience in our humid, coastal environment? Or anyone who considered it and chose vinyl/composite instead? I want these windows to last a long time and stay looking good. Maintenance-wise, I know fiberglass can be painted if we ever wanted, which is nice, but also extra work if paint fades. Vinyl you can’t really paint (well, you’re not supposed to need to).

I’d love to hear pros/cons if anyone has insight. Right now I’m deciding between going with something like Simonton/PGT (vinyl) or Marvin/Pella (fiberglass). Thanks!

@zshadow38 Yes! I actually installed Pella Impervia fiberglass windows in my Sarasota home about 3 years ago. I’d be happy to share my experience.
I was also intrigued by fiberglass for the same reasons – the material is super strong, and it doesn’t warp or expand much with temperature changes (which can be an issue with vinyl in extreme heat, though good vinyl is usually okay). Plus, the frames can be slimmer, giving a bit more glass area, since fiberglass has a higher strength-to-weight ratio.

My experience with Pella’s fiberglass so far: It’s been very positive. The windows still look brand new after 3 hot summers and salty air exposure (I’m maybe 5 miles from the gulf). I haven’t seen any corrosion on the hardware or degradation of the frames. I do periodically rinse them with fresh water, just as a precaution because the Pella manual suggested rinsing in salt air environments every now and then. But I’d probably do that with vinyl too to keep them clean.

Energy efficiency-wise, the fiberglass frames themselves don’t make the window much more efficient than vinyl frames would – it really comes down to the glass. Our Impervia windows are double-pane, Low-E (I think double Low-E coating) with argon. Their U-factor/SHGC were on par with similar vinyl units. So I wouldn’t say our bills are lower because of fiberglass per se; they’re lower because we went from old single-pane to new efficient double-pane.

The main benefits we’ve enjoyed with fiberglass:

The frames are strong and rigid. We have one rather large picture window and the fiberglass frame is very stable, no flex at all. In contrast, I’ve seen some vinyl frames that can flex a bit on big sizes (though good ones have reinforcements).

Aesthetically, the frames are a bit thinner than some vinyl windows, which I like (more glass, less frame visible).

They can be painted. Ours came in a factory white finish which looks fine and hasn’t needed painting. But I have the option in the future if we change our house color scheme. With vinyl, you’re stuck with the color you order (usually white or tan).

Now, about whether it’s worth the extra cost: Fiberglass windows did cost us more than vinyl quotes we received. To give you an idea, the Impervia was maybe 20-25% more expensive than a comparable Simonton or CWS vinyl window quote we had. We decided to splurge for the reasons above. Do they perform significantly better than vinyl? Probably not in terms of energy numbers. It was more a longevity/appearance choice for us.

In Florida, many people are perfectly happy with vinyl windows (since high-quality vinyl is engineered to handle our climate now). If budget is a big concern, you wouldn’t be making a bad choice with vinyl at all. But if you value the slightly refined look and potential longevity of fiberglass, and you plan to stay in your house a long time, it could be worth it.

One more thing: check the warranty and recommended maintenance. Fiberglass often has a finish that might need upkeep (Pella’s warranty required occasional cleaning in salt air, etc., which is fine by me). Good vinyl windows often come with lifetime warranties for original owners on the frame. For instance, I think Simonton offers a pretty robust warranty. Pella’s Impervia gave a 20-year warranty on glass, 10-year on components if I recall, and “lifetime” on the frame (with some conditions). That difference might or might not matter to you.

Bottom line: My fiberglass windows have been great in Florida conditions – no regrets. But I also think a premium vinyl window would have likely served us just as well in terms of comfort and utility, perhaps with slightly thicker frames and one less customization option. It’s a bit of a “nice-to-have” vs “need-to-have” scenario. If you can afford it and like the features, go for it. If not, rest assured vinyl is the standard down here for a reason.

Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any specific questions about the Impervia or fiberglass performance.

@psychology_mario Thank you for the detailed answers! That helps a lot. Sounds like impact glass with Low-E is basically as good as non-impact in terms of efficiency, which is great to know. The peace of mind factor is huge for us too – we have young kids and I’d rather not be rushing to put up shutters if a storm is coming 😅.
Given all this, I’m now leaning towards going impact as well. I’ll likely get a quote from ProTech Windoors (based on your and others’ positive experiences) and see how it fits our budget. We might do what you did: replace in one go as a long-term investment. If it comes out too high, we might consider doing the most critical windows now and others later, but I’d prefer to do it all at once.

Thanks again – I feel a lot more confident about the impact window route. I’ll update you all when we pull the trigger on our project!

This thread has turned out to be an amazing resource – thanks so much, everyone! It’s great to hear a variety of experiences.
Quick update from my side: We ended up getting a third quote as well, and after weighing everything, we decided to go with Karoly Windows & Doors and the Simonton vinyl windows. They weren’t the lowest bid, but we felt most comfortable with their expertise and the Simonton product. Sure enough, the windows were installed last week (about 6 weeks after we ordered, which wasn’t too bad of a wait).

So far, we are thrilled with the results. The new windows look fantastic, and even more importantly, the performance is immediately noticeable. For example, we have a big west-facing bay window in our living room that used to turn the area into a furnace by late afternoon. Now, with the double-pane Low-E3 glass, you can stand in that window nook at 4 PM and not feel that oppressive heat. It’s honestly impressive. My wife kept touching the glass yesterday and saying “I can’t believe it’s not hot!” 😄.

We chose the Simonton Reflections series with the double-pane Low-E (three layers of Low-E coating) and argon gas, vinyl frames (white). We opted for non-impact glass (since we have shutters and we’re a bit inland), which saved some money. But we did go with the laminated glass upgrade on one particular window that faces a noisy street for sound reduction. The mix-and-match was something Karoly accommodated nicely.

The installation team from Karoly was great – as others noted, they insulated around the frames and made sure everything was sealed. They even cleaned up some wood rot they found under one old sill (Florida humidity strikes again, but they fixed it before installing the new window).

It’s only been a week, but the indoor temperature is more stable and our AC is cycling on less frequently, even though it’s already late May and pretty hot out. I’m excited to see if our next electric bill shows a dip. Also, as a bonus, our home is quieter – less outside noise coming through the glass.

I couldn’t be happier with how it turned out. Big thanks to all of you for steering us in the right direction. The advice about Low-E coatings, SHGC, and picking a good installer really paid off in our decision-making. I feel like we made an informed choice and it’s working out great.

I hope this thread stays up because it can help a lot of other homeowners in Tampa Bay looking for window info. I’ll continue to follow the discussion and will update if we encounter any issues down the line. But fingers crossed, I think we’re set for many years of cooler, more efficient living!

@geo733 Congratulations on getting your new windows installed! 🎉 Glad to hear Karoly and Simonton came through for you. It sounds like you made a smart choice and are already reaping the benefits.
There really is something magical about feeling that lack of heat when you touch the glass on a sunny day, isn’t there? The first time I experienced that with our new windows, I knew the investment was worth it. It’s also great that they addressed the sill rot during install – a good installer makes all the difference.

Enjoy the cooler temps and the quieter home. Your summer in Tampa will be much more comfortable now, guaranteed. And yes, do let us know if you see changes in your energy bill after a full month or two; I bet you’ll notice some savings.

This has been an awesome thread – a lot of collective knowledge here. Congrats again, and thanks for circling back with your results!