Sometimes I feel like you could put a bank vault window in and still hear the neighbor’s leaf blower if there’s a hole somewhere else...
That’s honestly the most accurate thing I’ve read about window upgrades. I went through a similar process—spent a small fortune on Marvin casements, expecting a dramatic drop in city noise. Like you, air leaks basically vanished, but the noise? Not so much, at least until I realized my 1930s basement rim joists were basically open invitations for sound and drafts. Once I hit those with spray foam (and yeah, some acoustic caulk around the sills), the difference finally showed up.
Between Marvin and Integrity, I can’t say I noticed a huge sound difference after install. Install quality and sealing felt way more important than the brand badge. If you’re chasing quiet, those acoustic caulks are worth a shot, especially in old houses where nothing lines up quite right.
Honestly, unless the rest of the house is tight, windows alone won’t do it. It’s a pain, but sealing up those weird little gaps everywhere else makes all the difference—at least, it did for me.
- Totally agree, sealing up the weird gaps made a bigger difference than the window brand for me too.
- I went with Integrity in my last place—install crew was careful, but I still had to chase down old wall cracks and attic penetrations before the noise really dropped.
- If you’re in an older house, it’s like playing whack-a-mole with drafts and sound leaks.
- Windows help, but unless you go full triple-pane or add storm windows, most of the battle is in the details.
- One thing I did regret: not budgeting for more spray foam and caulk up front... those little extras added up fast.
If you’re in an older house, it’s like playing whack-a-mole with drafts and sound leaks.
Can confirm—my 1920s place had me crawling around with a flashlight and a tube of caulk like some kind of draft detective. Picked Marvin for the main floor, but honestly, the cold air still found ways in till I hit every weird spot (behind trim, old outlets, even the basement rim joist). Didn’t realize how much “extras” like spray foam would cost. If I had to do it over, I'd double whatever you think you need for sealing stuff up... and maybe invest in knee pads.
Didn’t realize how much “extras” like spray foam would cost. If I had to do it over, I'd double whatever you think you need for sealing stuff up... and maybe invest in knee pads.
That rings way too true. We moved into a 1935 colonial and I figured new windows would be the magic bullet, but nope—felt like I was chasing cold air around the house every winter. Went with Marvin on the front and old Integrity (back when they were still making them) for the upstairs, partly because of budget and partly because the back windows are less visible. Honestly, I can’t tell a huge difference in actual warmth between the two brands, but installation made a much bigger impact than I expected. The crew that did the Marvins was meticulous about flashing and insulation, and those rooms are noticeably less drafty.
One thing I learned: even with “premium” windows, if you don’t address all those weird gaps—like behind baseboards or around old electrical boxes—you’re still going to feel it. I actually found a gap behind some crown molding that was letting in enough cold air to move a tissue. Ended up using a ridiculous amount of backer rod and caulk in places I never would’ve thought to check.
Curious if anyone else had issues with sound leaks too? The Marvins definitely cut down on street noise compared to what was there before, but the Integrity units upstairs don’t seem quite as solid in that department. Not sure if it’s just installation or something about the glass package.
Have you noticed any difference in condensation between floors? My upstairs Integrity windows tend to fog up more on cold mornings than the Marvins downstairs, even though both are supposed to be similar spec. Wondering if it’s just a quirk of our house or something others have seen.
even with “premium” windows, if you don’t address all those weird gaps—like behind baseboards or around old electrical boxes—you’re still going to feel it.
That’s been my experience too. I put in new Marvins on the main floor (2017) and left the old Integrity units in the attic, and honestly, the difference in comfort came down to how obsessive I got with sealing everything around the frames. The insulation and flashing details made more of a difference than the window brand itself.
Regarding sound leaks, I’ve noticed Marvins are better at blocking street noise—probably due to heavier sashes and tighter weatherstripping. The Integrity ones upstairs let more sound through, even though they’re technically “double pane.” Not sure if it’s a glass thickness issue or just that older installs weren’t as tight.
As for condensation, my upper floor windows fog up more too. I suspect it’s a combo of higher humidity upstairs and maybe less air circulation. Could also be that the older Integrity units just don’t insulate as evenly around the edges. Haven’t found a perfect fix yet—just keep a dehumidifier running when it gets bad.
I’ve seen this play out a hundred times—folks get fixated on the window brand and totally overlook what’s actually killing their comfort: air leaks and bad insulation details. Doesn’t matter if you drop big money on Marvins, Andersens, or whatever’s trending, if you don’t foam and flash every last inch, you’re still gonna get drafts. I’ve pulled off trim in “high-end” remodels and found daylight around the frame because someone got lazy with the backer rod or skipped the low-expansion foam. It’s wild.
You’re spot on about sound, though. The new Marvins do tend to block more noise, but it’s not just the glass. The sash weight and how tight that weatherstripping sits makes a bigger difference than most people realize. I’ve replaced old Integrity units for clients who swore their house sounded like a drumline practice, and half the time it was sloppy install—gaps behind the jambs or missing insulation letting sound sneak in. Even a small gap can turn into a megaphone for street noise.
Condensation upstairs is tricky. I see it all the time, especially in older homes where airflow is weird and humidity creeps up in winter. Sometimes it’s just physics—warm air rises, hits cold glass, and bam: fog city. But I’ve also seen Integrity units with less-than-stellar edge seals, which doesn’t help. A dehumidifier is a good move, but I’d also check if your bath fans are doing their job or if there’s any way to get more circulation up there. Sometimes just running the furnace fan on “circulate” helps even things out.
If you’re thinking about swapping out more windows, I’d honestly say don’t get too hung up on the sticker or brand name. Focus on getting every detail right—good flashing, proper foam, and solid trim work. That’s what really pays off long term, both for comfort and your wallet. Brand matters, but install matters more.
I get what you’re saying about install being the real game changer. I’ve read so many threads where people drop a fortune on “the best” windows and then get all sorts of drafts and noise issues anyway. Makes me wonder if even going with a cheaper brand would be fine as long as the install is done right. But here’s what’s tripping me up—how do you actually know if your installer is doing it properly? Like, I can’t exactly pull off my new trim to double check their work.
On the condensation thing, we’ve got that upstairs too, especially in the main bedroom. Humidity isn’t crazy high but still get fog on the glass some mornings. Is it worth paying for an energy audit before replacing windows or is that just overkill? Curious if anyone’s actually found hidden issues that way or if it’s just another expense...
how do you actually know if your installer is doing it properly? Like, I can’t exactly pull off my new trim to double check their work.
That’s the tricky part, right? I asked my installer a million questions and watched like a hawk. I also checked for things like expanding foam around the frame and made sure they flashed the sill properly. Still, unless you’re pulling off the casing, it’s a trust exercise.
As for the energy audit, I thought it was overkill too but did one anyway (old house problems). Turns out I had way more air leaks in the attic than around my windows. Helped me prioritize what to fix first—definitely saved me from just chasing condensation ghosts.
I get the trust thing—sometimes I feel like unless you’re living inside the wall, you just have to hope for the best. I grilled my installer about every step, but at some point, it’s either faith or you’re pulling out the trim and making a mess. Kind of like Schrödinger’s window install—could be perfect, could be a disaster, but you won’t know unless you open it up.
About Marvin vs. old Integrity, I went with the Integrity (fiberglass) a few years back, mostly because the price difference was pretty noticeable and I wasn’t convinced the “full Marvin” was worth the jump for my 1960s ranch. They’ve held up fine so far, but sometimes I wonder if I should’ve splurged on the better hardware and wood interiors. The Integrity crank handles are... let’s say, functional, but not exactly confidence-inspiring. No issues with drafts or leaks, though, so maybe I’m just nitpicking.
Funny thing is, my biggest regret isn’t even about the windows—it’s that I didn’t pony up for a better installer. The windows themselves seem solid, but I did have to chase them back to fix some sloppy caulking. Makes me think: does it even matter which window you pick if the install is half-baked? I guess that’s where that energy audit comes in handy. Mine flagged a couple spots they missed entirely around the headers. Wouldn’t have noticed otherwise.
Anyway, I’m still skeptical that you can ever really know what’s going on behind the scenes unless you’re tearing stuff apart. Maybe that’s just old house paranoia talking, but I’d rather be a little annoying and ask too many questions than end up with mystery leaks down the line.
I get where you’re coming from about the install making or breaking it, but I actually think the window choice itself matters a bit more than you’re giving it credit for. We had a mix—Marvin in the front, Integrity in the back (long story involving a backorder and a very patient spouse). The Marvins definitely feel sturdier, especially with the hardware. Maybe it’s just psychological, but every time I crank open the kitchen window, it feels like it’ll last forever. The Integrity ones work fine, but there’s a little flex that always makes me second-guess. I’d say if you plan to stay put for a while, sometimes that upgrade really does pay off in peace of mind... even if you still have to chase after caulk blobs now and then.