Here’s how I swapped out my old single-pane windows for those insulated ones with gas in between (pretty sure it’s argon, right?). First, measured the window openings like three times—can’t mess that up. Then ordered the right size and waited about three weeks. Install was mostly just popping out the old sashes, cleaning the frame, and sliding in the new units with a bit of caulk. Not rocket science, but I did need help holding them steady. Anyone got tricks for making sure the seal stays tight over time? Or is there a better way to get these in without hiring a pro?
That’s pretty much how I did mine, too—measured about a dozen times because I was paranoid about ordering the wrong size. I’ve heard the gas is usually argon, but sometimes it’s krypton for higher-end stuff? Not totally sure if there’s a big difference in real-world performance though.
For the seal, I used a high-quality silicone caulk around the frame, but I keep wondering if I should’ve used expanding foam in spots. Some folks say foam can warp the frame if you overdo it, which sounds like a nightmare. Have you noticed any drafts since installing yours, or is everything still airtight? I’m in a pretty humid area and worry about condensation messing with the seals over time.
Did you go with replacement inserts or full-frame windows? I debated that for ages, but ended up with inserts to save money. Just curious if anyone’s regretted not doing a full tear-out later on...
Funny you mention expanding foam—I’ve seen more than a few folks get a little too enthusiastic with it and end up fighting to close their windows afterward. I’m all for a tight seal, but honestly, a good bead of silicone does the trick in most cases, especially if your frame is solid and you’re not dealing with huge gaps. The only time I’d reach for foam is if the rough opening is way out of square or you’re working with an older house where nothing’s plumb.
About the gas fill, krypton is technically better at insulating, but you really only see a difference in super cold climates or when the panes are closer together. For most homes, argon’s more than enough—plus it keeps the price from creeping up.
I’ve done both full-frame and inserts over the years. Inserts are definitely easier on the wallet and less mess, but I do think you lose some efficiency if your old frames aren’t in great shape. Full-frame’s a pain, but in my own place (built in the ‘60s), I went that route just to stop the drafts for good. Haven’t regretted it, though it was a weekend I won’t forget…
Inserts are definitely easier on the wallet and less mess, but I do think you lose some efficiency if your old frames aren’t in great shape.
That’s been my experience too. I did inserts in our old kitchen and, honestly, I still get a bit of a draft on windy days. Have you ever tried using those window insulation kits (the plastic film you shrink with a hair dryer) as a temporary fix before biting the bullet on full replacement? I’m curious if anyone’s noticed a real difference, or if it’s just a placebo.
I’ve used those shrink-wrap window kits a couple times, mostly in the upstairs bedrooms before I did any actual replacements. They do help a bit with drafts, but honestly, they’re more of a band-aid than a solution. The plastic film definitely blocks some airflow, but if your frames are warped or the sashes don’t close right, it’s only going to do so much. Plus, they can look pretty janky after a few months if you bump into them or the tape starts peeling.
About the inserts—yeah, I get what you mean about efficiency. My old place had frames that weren’t square anymore, so even with new insulated glass, it was tricky getting a perfect seal. I ended up running a thin bead of silicone around the inside edge after installation, which helped for a year or two. Still, nothing beats a full-frame replacement if you can stomach the cost and mess.
Measuring three times is the way to go though. I learned that the hard way after ordering one window just a hair too big… had to trim the opening, which was not fun.