That lines up with what I’ve seen. The Jeld-Wen cranks just don’t hold up if you’re actually opening the windows a lot. Did you notice if the hinges wore out too, or was it mostly the operator? I’ve had a couple where the hinges started sagging after a few seasons, which made the crank work even harder.
I get the draw of new glass for energy bills, but if the old frames are still solid, why not just upgrade the weatherstripping and hardware? I’ve pulled some 60s operators from salvage yards that are way beefier than anything on new windows these days. Seems like a lot of new stuff is built for looks, not longevity.
Andersen’s prices sting, but I agree—their operators feel smoother and more solid. Have you tried swapping in third-party cranks on any of your windows, or is that just asking for trouble? I’m always torn between fixing what’s there and just going fixed-pane to avoid all the moving parts. Depends how much you want to open them, I guess...
- I get where you’re coming from, but sometimes old frames just aren’t worth the hassle.
- Upgrading weatherstripping and hardware helps, but if the sashes are warped or there’s rot hiding, you’re still fighting drafts.
- Fixed panes are tempting—less to break—but I’d miss the airflow in spring.
- Tried third-party cranks once; didn’t fit quite right and felt flimsy. Maybe it’s just me, but I’d rather bite the bullet for something that works smooth out of the box.
- Sometimes new windows are the least stressful option, even if it stings upfront.
Had a similar debate with myself last year—old wood casements looked nice but were drafty no matter how much I fussed with weatherstripping. Tried repairing the rotted frame, but it just kept coming back. Ended up going with new Jeld-Wens. Not cheap, but honestly, the smooth operation and actual insulation have made a noticeable difference, especially in winter. Still kinda miss the old hardware, though... there’s something about those old latches you just don’t get with new ones.
Yeah, I totally get that nostalgia for the old hardware. There’s just something about the weight and feel of those old latches—mine had these chunky brass handles that always made a satisfying clunk when you locked them. The new ones are smooth, but it’s not quite the same vibe.
I went through a similar process last spring. My old casements were beautiful but leaky as heck, and after a few rounds of patching up soft spots with epoxy and repainting, I finally gave in. Ended up with Jeld-Wens too, mainly because they seemed like a decent balance between price and quality. Here’s how I tackled it:
First, measured everything like three times because those old frames weren’t exactly square anymore. Then I pried out the old sashes (with a lot of cursing) and realized just how much rot was hiding under the paint. That was kind of the last straw for me—no way I was going to rebuild all that framing.
Once the new windows went in, the difference in drafts was immediate. I barely even hear the wind now, and my winter heating bill dropped a bit. The only thing I kinda regret is not salvaging more of the old hardware. I kept one latch as a weird little souvenir, though.
I’m curious—did you do a full frame replacement or just insert the new windows into the old frames? I debated both options but went with full frame because of all the rot, though it did mean more mess and expense. Also, did you notice any condensation issues with the new windows? Mine seem to fog up less, but I’ve heard mixed things from others.
If anyone’s thinking about making the switch, my biggest tip is to budget extra time for trim work—getting everything lined up nicely took longer than I expected. But yeah, can’t argue with a cozier house when it’s freezing out.
- I’m right there with you on the old hardware nostalgia. My grandma’s house had these windows that sounded like a medieval drawbridge when you closed them—kind of miss that weird clunk.
- Still, I’m shopping around for replacements now, and the Jeld-Wens keep popping up. Glad to hear they actually cut down drafts (my living room currently feels like a wind tunnel on bad days).
- Full frame vs insert is exactly what’s tripping me up. My frames are mostly solid but a couple corners are sketchy. Kinda dreading what’s hiding under the paint... Also not eager to rip out all my ancient trim, but maybe it’s inevitable.
- Condensation is a big worry for me too. I get these little ice patches inside the panes every winter—feels like living in a snow globe. If new ones really help with that, it’s probably worth the hassle.
- Not gonna lie, I’m also scared of measuring wrong and ending up with windows that fit like socks on a rooster.
- Appreciate the heads-up about trim work taking forever. I’ll brace myself (and stock up on snacks).
The measuring thing seriously stressed me out too. I ended up double- and triple-checking, then still had a pro come by to confirm before ordering, just for peace of mind. Full frame vs. insert is kind of a gamble—if your trim is cool and you’re attached to it, inserts can work, but if there’s rot under there... yeah, you might be in for a surprise demo day. FWIW, my new windows helped with condensation a ton, but draft-wise, it’s only as good as the install. There’s always something hiding behind old paint, right?
Yeah, measuring is a total anxiety trip. I thought I had it down, but then realized my old frames were so warped from years of Midwest humidity that nothing was square. Ended up doing full frame just to be safe—cost more, but at least I know there’s no rot lurking in there now. The drafts are gone, but honestly, the real win was not having to repaint all the trim (I’m lazy like that). Funny how a “simple” window swap turns into an archaeology dig sometimes...
Man, you nailed it with the “archaeology dig” bit—never fails, you start pulling trim and suddenly you’re staring at 50 years of weird repairs and mystery stains. Midwest humidity is no joke for old wood. I’ve seen sills so warped you could practically surf on them.
Going full frame is definitely the safer route if there’s any doubt about rot. Costs more up front, but you dodge the surprise repair bills down the line. Plus, you get that fresh start—no more drafts sneaking in or worrying about hidden damage.
Funny thing, though: I’ve had a couple folks try to just do pocket installs to save money, only to end up calling me back a year later when the old frames started crumbling. Sometimes lazy pays off in the long run if it means less painting and less hassle.
Jeld-Wens are solid for the price, but I always tell people to double-check measurements and squareness—those factory tolerances don’t forgive much. And yeah, nothing’s ever truly “simple” with old houses... keeps life interesting, I guess.
I hear you on the full frame installs, but I actually had decent luck with a pocket replacement last fall—old brick house, original frames were still solid after a little epoxy work. Saved me a bunch of mess and cash. Not every situation’s a total tear-out, in my experience.
- Pocket installs can work, but I’ve seen a lot of issues crop up down the line, especially with old brick.
- Even if the original frame *looks* solid after epoxy, you’re still gambling with hidden rot or shifting over time. Sometimes what you can’t see comes back to bite you.
- Air leakage is another thing—those old frames weren’t built for modern energy standards. I’ve had clients call me back a year later about drafts they didn’t notice at first.
- Full frame’s a bigger mess, yeah, but you get a true reset—new insulation, flashing, everything tight and square. You know what you’re getting.
- Cost is definitely higher upfront, but if you end up re-doing pocket installs or chasing leaks later, it adds up anyway.
- Had a job last year where we tried to save the original frames (1920s brick), did all the patching and epoxy, only to find out the sill was rotted under the surface. Ended up tearing it all out anyway—double labor.
- Not saying pocket never works… just that with old houses, there’s always more lurking than you think. I’d rather bite the bullet once than patch things for years.
If your frames were truly solid and you’re happy with the result, that’s great. Just wouldn’t call it typical in my experience—especially with brick and anything pre-1950s.