Yeah, hitting the joists makes a huge difference. I did the same thing after my dog basically used the old curtain rod as a jungle gym—lesson learned.
That’s true, but honestly, patching a few holes beats rehanging everything every other week. Not perfect, but it works.Only catch: patching holes if you ever move them... but worth it for the peace of mind.
“patching holes if you ever move them... but worth it for the peace of mind.”
Totally agree—anchoring into the joists is just more reliable, especially with heavy curtains. Patching drywall isn’t that bad, really. I’d rather deal with a few small repairs than risk another curtain rod disaster. My dog’s antics made me a believer...
Yeah, anchoring into the joists is the way to go—especially with big windows and heavy fabric. I had a curtain rod pull out of just drywall anchors once, and it was a mess. A little spackle is way less hassle than rehanging everything after a crash.
I get the logic behind going straight into the joists, but I’ve actually had decent luck with toggle bolts in drywall—at least for lighter setups. Maybe I’ve just been lucky. With my last place, the windows were massive and the walls were old plaster, so finding a joist was sometimes impossible unless you wanted to rip out half the wall. For that room, I used heavy-duty toggle anchors rated for 100+ lbs and they held up surprisingly well, even with thick blackout curtains.
That said, I totally get the worry about a curtain rod crashing down. The one time it happened to me was actually in a rental where the previous owner had used those cheap plastic anchors. What a mess... But if you’re dealing with really tricky window placements or old houses where joists aren’t where you want them, do you think toggle bolts are a reasonable compromise? Or is that just asking for trouble long-term?
I also wonder if anyone’s tried those ceiling-mount tracks instead of traditional rods? My neighbor swears by them for big windows since you can hit the ceiling joists instead of worrying about wall studs. Seems like more work up front, but maybe less patching and re-hanging down the line.
Is there a point where it’s just better to go custom with shades or blinds instead of wrestling with heavy drapes and hardware? Sometimes I feel like I’m overcomplicating things just to keep the look consistent...
do you think toggle bolts are a reasonable compromise? Or is that just asking for trouble long-term?
I’ve had mixed results with toggle bolts in drywall, especially with heavier curtains. They do hold up initially, but over time, I noticed some sagging—probably from the constant pulling when opening and closing the drapes. I guess it comes down to how much weight you’re dealing with and how often you use the curtains. For lighter setups, they’re fine, but I’d be cautious with anything over 40-50 lbs, even if the anchors are rated higher.
Ceiling-mount tracks are interesting. I installed one for a friend’s loft with big windows, and being able to hit ceiling joists made all the difference. The install was a bit more involved (measuring, drilling into the ceiling, patching mistakes...), but it’s been rock solid for years. If aesthetics aren’t a huge concern, those tracks are pretty discreet.
Honestly, after wrestling with heavy drapes for years, I switched to custom cellular shades in my own place. More expensive upfront, but no more hardware headaches or patching holes. Sometimes function wins out over matching everything perfectly...
I’m always a little wary of toggle bolts for anything that gets daily use. They *can* hold, but once drywall starts crumbling, you’re in patch-and-repair territory. Did you notice any drafts or heat loss with the cellular shades? I keep hearing they’re great for insulation, but I wonder how much difference it actually makes in a big space.
Did you notice any drafts or heat loss with the cellular shades? I keep hearing they’re great for insulation, but I wonder how much difference it actually makes in a big space.
I had the same doubts before I put up cellular shades in our living room (giant windows, old plaster walls). Honestly, they did help with drafts—especially compared to the bare glass—but it wasn’t like flipping a switch on the thermostat. You still feel some chill if you’re close to the window, but it’s definitely less. For us, the biggest perk was keeping out that summer sun. Winter savings were there, just not dramatic. If you’ve got gaps at the sides or bottom, though, some air still sneaks in...
That’s interesting—did you try layering the cellular shades with curtains at all, or just stick to the shades? I keep wondering if doubling up would help with those side gaps, or if it’s just overkill. Also, did you notice any condensation issues with the shades down in winter? I’ve heard mixed things about that, especially with older windows...
I keep wondering if doubling up would help with those side gaps, or if it’s just overkill.
Layering actually does a lot for those pesky gaps, especially on older, drafty windows. I’ve seen a big difference when clients add curtains over cellulars—cuts down on drafts and looks less “bare.” As for condensation, yeah, it can be a thing if the shades are down all day in winter. With older windows, I usually suggest raising them a bit during the day to let moisture escape. It’s not perfect, but it helps. Honestly, I’d say doubling up isn’t overkill at all if you’re after comfort and insulation... plus you get more control over the look.
Yeah, I’ve tried the double-layer thing—cellulars with blackout curtains. It definitely helped with drafts, but honestly, it made opening and closing everything a bit of a pain. My windows are old too, and I do notice less condensation if I crack things open for a while. For me, the extra insulation was worth it last winter, but it does start to feel like you’re living in a blanket fort sometimes… Not sure I’d call it overkill, just a tradeoff.