That’s a familiar struggle—old plaster just doesn’t play by the rules. I had to patch a spot after my first attempt, and you’re right, it’s not a quick fix. Honestly, I’ve learned to live with the occasional snag or slightly crooked rod. There’s something kind of satisfying about figuring things out as you go, even if it’s not picture-perfect. Sometimes the “charm” is just proof you’re actually using the space.
Old plaster is tricky—no doubt. I’ve had to use toggle bolts and even a few molly anchors to get rods to stay put, but sometimes the wall just crumbles anyway. Honestly, I stopped aiming for perfect symmetry. If the rod’s a bit off, the drapes usually cover it up. For big windows, I went with extra-wide roller shades and mounted them into the wood framing above the plaster. It’s not flawless, but at least I’m not patching holes every few months.
I get the “charm” thing, though. My living room’s got a slightly crooked rod that’s been there for years... at this point, it just feels like part of the house’s personality. If you’re dealing with really heavy curtains, maybe try a French return rod—they distribute weight better and need fewer brackets. Still, nothing’s truly simple with old walls.
- Honestly, I’ve had better luck with tension rods for lighter drapes—no holes, no anchors, just a snug fit between window frames.
- For bigger windows, sometimes I’ll use ceiling-mount tracks; they bypass the crumbly plaster entirely if you can hit a joist.
- Roller shades are solid, but if you want curtains for insulation or style, there’s no shame in a little asymmetry... though I do try to get things as level as possible.
- French return rods are great, but even those need solid anchoring—sometimes I’ll add a thin plywood backer behind the plaster to spread out the load.
- Plaster quirks aside, it’s all about finding what works for your space and not stressing the small stuff.
For bigger windows, sometimes I’ll use ceiling-mount tracks; they bypass the crumbly plaster entirely if you can hit a joist.
Ceiling-mount tracks are a solid workaround, but hitting a joist isn’t always a sure thing, especially in older places where nothing lines up. If you can’t find a joist, toggle bolts can help—just don’t expect them to hold serious weight. For really big windows, I’ve had to go with custom brackets that span across multiple studs or even drop down from blocking I add in the attic. It’s more work, but at least you’re not gambling on old plaster.
Tension rods work for lightweight stuff, but anything heavier and you’re risking a crash. I’ve seen too many rods come down after a few months. Roller shades are easier to mount, but you lose out on insulation unless you double up with curtains.
Plywood backers behind the plaster definitely spread out the load, but sometimes it’s not worth opening up the wall unless you’re already renovating. At the end of the day, it’s about what you’re willing to patch up later. Anyone tried magnetic curtain rods on steel window frames? Not perfect, but it saved me some headaches in a 1920s apartment once...
Magnetic rods worked for me too, but only with lighter curtains—anything heavier and they started to slip after a while. Curious if anyone’s tried those adhesive mounts or command hooks for curtain rods? I’ve wondered if they’re just a temporary fix or if they actually hold up in the long run, especially for renters who can’t drill into anything. Ever had any luck with those, or do they just end up peeling paint?
I’ve actually tried the command hooks with a lightweight rod in my old apartment, since drilling was a no-go. Here’s the thing: they held up fine for sheer curtains, but anything heavier and they started sagging after a few weeks. If you go that route, make sure the wall is super clean before sticking them on—any dust or paint chips will make ‘em peel way quicker. I did have some minor paint coming off when I removed them, but nothing major. For big windows or heavier drapes, I just haven’t found a truly renter-friendly option that doesn’t have at least one drawback... but for light stuff, command hooks aren’t too bad.
I get where you’re coming from with command hooks, but honestly, I think there are better options if you’re worried about energy bills or heat loss. Sheer curtains just don’t do much to keep the place cool in summer or warm in winter—learned that the hard way after my first year in a drafty rental. Have you looked at those tension rods with thermal curtains? They’re not perfect, but they actually made a noticeable difference for me, and didn’t wreck the walls either. Bit pricier upfront maybe, but in my experience, worth it for the extra insulation.
Tension rods with thermal curtains were a game changer for my old Victorian—those windows were basically wind tunnels in winter. I did have to trim the curtains a bit since nothing was standard size, but the insulation bump was worth it. Only downside, if you’ve got cats, they love to launch themselves at the curtains... adds some excitement to the living room.
Only downside, if you’ve got cats, they love to launch themselves at the curtains... adds some excitement to the living room.
That’s hilarious—I can totally picture the chaos. We’ve got a dog who thinks anything dangling is a toy, so I get it. I tried tension rods too but on our big windows they kept sagging in the middle, especially with heavier curtains. Ended up switching to those ceiling-mount tracks from IKEA and it’s been way sturdier (plus you can cut them to fit). Not as cheap as tension rods, but less drama when pets get rowdy.
Ceiling tracks are a solid choice—installed a bunch of those for clients with big windows and wild pets. They’re way less likely to pull out of drywall than tension rods, especially if you hit the joists. Only catch: patching holes if you ever move them... but worth it for the peace of mind.