- Ran into this exact thing a few months back. Guy tried to talk me out of pan flashing, said the caulk would “do the job just fine.”
- I’ve had to tear out too many rotten sills to ever skip it, even if it adds a bit of time.
- Not everyone wants to admit they’re unsure about the right steps—sometimes it’s just rushing, but sometimes it’s not knowing or caring.
- It always seems like such a small thing until water gets in and you’re pulling apart half a wall... Seen that way too often.
- I get the concern, but I’ll admit, I’ve seen caulk hold up fine in some installs—at least for a few years.
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“It always seems like such a small thing until water gets in and you’re pulling apart half a wall...”
- True, but sometimes pan flashing isn’t feasible with old brick or stone houses. Had to make do with heavy-duty caulk and angled sills once. No leaks so far (knock on wood).
- I still prefer flashing when possible, but I don’t think caulk alone is always a red flag—sometimes it’s just working with what you’ve got.
- I get the concern, but I’ll admit, I’ve seen caulk hold up fine in some installs—at least for a few years. -
- True, but sometimes pan flashing isn’t feasible with old brick or stone h...
I get where you’re coming from—sometimes, with old brick, “proper” flashing just isn’t an option. I’ve had to rely on good caulk and a sloped sill myself. That said, I always check for gaps after a few months. Even heavy-duty caulk can shrink or crack over time, especially with temperature swings. If you’re stuck using caulk, I’d recommend running a bead under the sill and up the sides, then smoothing it out so water sheds off. Not perfect, but better than nothing.
- Ran into this exact thing with my 1920s house—installer told me caulk was “just as good” as flashing, which felt off.
- After the first winter, I noticed some minor leaks at the corners. Turned out the caulk had already started pulling away (thanks, Midwest freeze/thaw).
- Ended up redoing it myself with better prep and a more generous bead. Not a perfect fix, but it’s held up for a couple years now.
- Honestly, I’d still rather have flashing, but sometimes you gotta work with what you’ve got...
Man, I hear you on the caulk vs. flashing debate—been there myself. My place is from the late 40s and I swear, every time someone tells me “caulk will do the trick,” I get this little voice in my head saying, “Yeah, for about five minutes.” Midwest winters are brutal. That freeze/thaw cycle just loves to find any little weakness and make it bigger.
Honestly, props for tackling it yourself. That’s more than a lot of folks would do (me included—I usually end up staring at the problem for three months before doing anything). Sounds like your fix is holding up pretty well, even if it’s not perfect. Sometimes you just have to make do until you can afford to rip out half your siding and do it “the right way.”
If it’s any consolation, I’ve seen even pro jobs fail after a few years if they cheap out on materials or skip steps. Flashing’s always better, but sometimes the perfect is the enemy of the good... especially with old houses that never seem to have straight lines anyway.
Couldn’t agree more about the freeze/thaw cycle—Midwest winters are brutal on any sealant. I’ve seen jobs where a bead of caulk looked fine in September, then by March it’s cracked and pulling away. Like you said, flashing is always better, even if it’s a pain to retrofit around old, wavy siding.
Flashings always better, but sometimes the perfect is the enemy of the good... especially with old houses that never seem to have straight lines anyway.
That’s spot on. I’ve had to custom-bend aluminum just to get something close to watertight on 1950s frames. Honestly, even pros can’t guarantee perfection if they’re not willing to take their time or use the right materials. Sometimes “good enough” is all you can do until a full tear-out makes sense.
Yeah, that freeze/thaw cycle is a real test—honestly, I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve thought a caulk job would hold up, only to see it pulling away by spring. Had a guy once who swore up and down that “premium exterior caulk” was all I needed, but he barely even looked at the flashing situation. That was my red flag. Sure enough, first winter, water started making its way in around the frame.
I totally get what you’re saying about custom-bending aluminum. I had to do the same on my 1948 place, and nothing’s square. It’s a pain, but I’d rather spend an extra hour fiddling with flashing than trust a bead of caulk alone. Sometimes you just gotta accept “good enough” if you’re not ready for a full window replacement, but I’d rather have a slightly ugly patch job that keeps water out than a pretty one that leaks.
Funny how old houses keep you humble… just when you think you’ve got it figured out, something else pops up.
I’d rather spend an extra hour fiddling with flashing than trust a bead of caulk alone.
That’s the right mindset. People underestimate how much difference proper flashing makes, especially in climates where freeze/thaw cycles are brutal. I’ve seen “premium” caulk fail within a season, but well-installed flashing holds up for decades. It’s not always pretty, especially with older homes where nothing’s square, but function beats form every time. You nailed it—old houses really do keep you on your toes.
It’s not always pretty, especially with older homes where nothing’s square, but function beats form every time.
That’s the truth. My place was built in the late 40s, and I swear not a single window opening is plumb or level. When I had a couple windows replaced last year, the installer tried to convince me that “modern caulks are just as good as flashing tape.” Maybe that’s true on a brand new build, but on these old walls? No chance. I ended up pausing the job and sourcing my own peel-and-stick flashing because I just couldn’t trust a bead of caulk to keep water out once things start shifting with the seasons.
The installer grumbled about it taking extra time, but honestly, what’s another hour or two compared to having to rip out rotten framing down the line? Like you mentioned, freeze/thaw cycles are brutal—we get big temperature swings here in upstate NY. I’ve seen “premium” caulk shrink or crack after one winter. Flashing might not look fancy behind the trim, but it does the heavy lifting.
It’s funny—sometimes people think you’re overdoing it when you insist on proper flashing, but those are usually the same folks who end up chasing leaks a few years later. I’d rather do it right once than mess with repairs every spring.
And yeah, working with old houses is always an adventure. Nothing lines up, everything takes longer than planned...but at least you know it’ll last if you put in the effort upfront. Good on you for trusting your gut and not letting a slick installer cut corners. That kind of attention to detail really pays off over time.
You made the right call holding your ground on the flashing. I’ve run into the same thing—guys wanting to slap in a bead of caulk and call it good, especially when the opening isn’t square. In my experience, caulk’s just a temporary bandaid, especially with the way old houses settle and flex. Flashing tape’s not glamorous, but it handles movement and keeps the water out for the long haul.
It’s wild how much resistance you can get just for asking them to do it right. I had a contractor once roll his eyes when I pulled out my own roll of flashing, but a little extra time up front is nothing compared to hunting for leaks or patching up rotten sills later. And you’re spot on about freeze/thaw—up here in the Midwest, I’ve watched “lifetime” caulk fail in under two years.
Honestly, that attention to detail is what keeps these old places standing. Sure, it takes longer, but it’s worth it when you don’t have to redo the job every few seasons. Good instincts on your part—sometimes you’ve just gotta trust your gut and stick to what you know works.