@matthewcoder3090 Good points, thank you! I definitely don't want to risk leaks or issues down the road. You've convinced me – I'll go with a professional installer and make sure they pull permits. My friend is handy, but he's not a window specialist, and I realize I don't want my house to be a guinea pig for something as important as windows.
I'll be reaching out to some of the reputable companies around here (like Karoly or ProTech, which several of you have mentioned) to get proper quotes and have it done right. The peace of mind is worth the cost.
Appreciate the advice! 🙏
Hi all, I'm in Odessa (northwest Hillsborough). We're about to sign a contract for our window replacements. One dilemma we have is whether to go with impact-rated windows or not. We have hurricane shutters currently, so technically we could stick with non-impact double-pane windows and just use shutters during storms, which is cheaper. But the salesman pointed out impact windows would give us year-round storm protection without putting up shutters, and even some additional noise reduction and UV protection because of the laminated glass.
My concern is mostly cost – impact windows are significantly pricier. From an energy efficiency standpoint, are impact windows any better, worse, or the same as non-impact? I assume the Low-E and argon do the same job, but perhaps the laminated glass in impact windows might block a tad more heat or maybe not?
Also, we want to avoid any installation issues: a co-worker of mine in Tampa had new windows (non-impact) installed by a less-than-stellar contractor and ended up with leaks during a heavy rain. 😬 That horror story has me determined to use a really good company (we're considering one of the ones you all mentioned with good reps). But it made me wonder if impact windows, being heavier, require any special installation considerations or if that's not a factor.
Lastly, I heard something about possible insurance discounts if you have all impact windows and doors. Has anyone actually gotten a break on their homeowners insurance for installing impact windows in this region (Hillsborough/Pasco)? Not a deciding factor, but it would be a nice perk if true.
So to sum up: impact vs non-impact – any energy efficiency differences, and is it worth it if we already have shutters? We're trying to decide if we should spend the extra or not.
@reader27 Great questions. I went through a similar decision. Here's what I know and have experienced:
Energy efficiency: Impact vs non-impact windows of the same brand/series usually have very similar energy performance. The main difference is impact glass has a laminated layer (basically like a car windshield) for storm resistance. That laminated glass can actually block slightly more UV and maybe a bit more sound, but from a pure insulation standpoint, the air gap, Low-E coating, and frame material are doing the heavy lifting. For example, the PGT windows I got come in both impact and non-impact versions; the SHGC and U-factor were almost identical between them (impact might have been 0.01 or 0.02 higher U-factor due to thicker glass, which is negligible). So I would say choose based on storm protection needs, not on energy efficiency differences, because efficiency will be about the same if the glass coatings are the same.
If you already have hurricane shutters and don't mind deploying them, non-impact windows are fine and you'll save quite a bit of money. Many people inland do just that: get good energy-efficient windows that are non-impact and use shutters for the big storms. Impact windows are more about convenience and always-on protection. In my case, I opted for impact windows even though I'm inland, because I travel a lot and wanted that peace of mind that the house is protected without me needing to be there to put up shutters. It was definitely more expensive (roughly 30% more in cost in my quotes). But I did notice a couple of fringe benefits: the laminated impact glass does cut a bit more noise (my house is very quiet now) and I feel a tad more secure security-wise (they're much harder to break through).
Installation: Impact windows are heavier, yes, but any experienced installer will handle them properly. They do require solid anchoring (long screws into the structure, etc., because of the weight and to meet code). A good window company will know and follow the specific installation guidelines for impact windows (like using the required number of fasteners, proper spacing, etc., which the permit inspection will check too). So as long as you have a reputable installer (sounds like you will), I wouldn't worry. Whether it's impact or not, they should seal and install it with the same care.
Insurance: Yes, there can be an insurance discount if you have all openings (windows, doors, etc.) hurricane-protected. Usually it doesn't matter if it's via shutters or impact glass, as long as you have either one on all openings. You typically get a wind mitigation inspection done, and if all openings are impact-rated or protected by shutters, you get credits. If you already have shutters, you're likely already getting that discount. If not, and you go impact for all windows, you could get a credit for "glazed opening protection." In my case, switching to impact windows didn't change my insurance much because I already had credits for shutters previously. But definitely check with your insurer – some give a bit more credit for having actual impact glass vs. having to manually deploy shutters, since impact glass is passive protection.
Given you have shutters, the purely financial decision would lean toward non-impact (since shutters achieve the safety and insurance piece, and non-impact will be cheaper). Energy efficiency will be excellent with either as long as you get the Low-E double-pane as planned. So it really comes down to convenience and budget.
Hope that helps! Sounds like you're making the smart move insisting on a good installer. Leaks usually only happen if something was done wrong, so that should not be an issue if the job's done to code. Good luck with your project!
Update time! I got back both the Karoly and ProTech quotes, so now I have three quotes in hand for my 12 windows:
Local Company A: Offered PGT EnergyVue windows (non-impact). Quote: $9,500.
Karoly Windows & Doors: Offered Simonton Reflections windows (non-impact). Quote: $10,200.
ProTech Windows: Offered CWS (Custom Window Systems) windows (non-impact). Quote: $9,800.
All three quotes are for vinyl double-pane windows with Low-E and argon, very similar specs. The SHGC values ranged from 0.25 to 0.29 between the options, and U-factors were about 0.28-0.30, so pretty close. Karoly's Simonton option had the lowest SHGC (around 0.25, which I liked), and ProTech's CWS was about 0.27. The PGT from Company A was 0.29 if I recall.
I was impressed with both Karoly and ProTech when they came out. Honestly, it was a tough choice, but I decided to go with Karoly Windows for the install. A big factor was their Simonton windows have that super low SHGC glass, and Karoly has a great track record (plus a neighbor of mine had used them and praised their work). The price difference was small enough that I went with the one I felt most confident about.
Karoly also offered a lifetime warranty on the windows and 10-year on installation, which gave me peace of mind. ProTech was very close though; I almost flipped a coin. In the end, I think I couldn't go wrong either way.
So, we've signed the contract with Karoly. They're ordering the windows, and they said installation should happen in about 6-8 weeks (apparently windows are still in high demand). I'm really excited to get this done, especially after hearing all your success stories.
I'll update again after the install to report on how it went and how the new windows perform. Thanks to everyone here for helping me make an informed decision!
@natemusician233 That's awesome, congrats on making a decision! 🎉 Those quotes are all in the same ballpark, so focusing on the company you felt best about makes sense. Karoly will do a great job for you.
It sounds like you got a good deal too, and those Simonton windows with a 0.25 SHGC are going to be fantastic against the Florida sun. 6-8 weeks lead time is pretty normal nowadays, so not too bad.
Definitely let us know how the installation goes and if you immediately notice the difference (I'm betting you will 😁). It's always satisfying to hear the before-and-after results.
Happy for you!
@matthewcoder3090 Thanks for the thorough answer earlier about vinyl vs aluminum. Based on everything, I'm convinced vinyl is the way to go for my situation. I've started getting quotes and all of them are indeed for vinyl double-pane windows with Low-E. It's reassuring to hear that none of you have had issues with quality vinyl frames here in Florida.
I'm also taking the advice on installation to heart. Every company I've talked to so far emphasizes their installation process, which is good. I'm making sure they include foam insulation and proper sealing in writing. One company even showed me pictures of their installers foaming the gaps and using flashing tape, which was a good sign.
So yep, I'm moving ahead with vinyl windows. Goodbye old aluminum sweat boxes 😅! Can't wait to have a more comfortable (and quieter) home.
I wanted to share a specific example of how window orientation matters. I'm in Seminole (Pinellas County), and my master bedroom has two huge west-facing windows. Before we upgraded, that room would turn into a sauna by late afternoon. The walls and floor would literally feel warm from the sun pounding in. We often had to crank the A/C down just for that part of the house in the evenings.
We replaced those windows with double-pane Low-E windows (vinyl frames, argon filled – the whole nine yards) and the difference is dramatic. Now, even when the sun is full blast on those west windows, the room stays much cooler. I no longer dread the sunset hour in that room. We still keep blinds, but sometimes we even leave them open to enjoy the light, which was impossible to do before without roasting.
So for anyone with really sun-exposed windows: definitely prioritize those for replacement or consider upgrading the glass. The Low-E coating on our new windows is doing its job big time – you can touch the glass in late afternoon and it's only slightly warm, whereas the old single-pane glass used to be almost too hot to touch.
My house overall is more balanced in temperature now. The west side used to be 5+ degrees hotter than the east side by end of day; now it's all even. So window placement and sun exposure absolutely influence what features you need. In our case, good Low-E and quality windows solved a huge comfort issue. 🙂
This thread has been a goldmine of info! I have a question on a slightly different benefit: noise reduction. For those of you who went from old single-pane to new double-pane windows, how much quieter did your home get?
I live on a fairly busy street in Pasco and I hear cars and outside noise a lot through my old windows. I'm primarily interested in the energy savings, but if new windows also help block sound, that would be a nice bonus (especially for bedrooms). Did anyone notice a big drop in noise after installing double-pane Low-E windows? Or would that require something like thicker glass or special soundproof windows?
Just curious how much of a difference it made in your experiences.
@marywolf990 Yes! One of the first things I noticed after my window upgrade was how much quieter it was inside. Even with just standard double-pane windows (nothing specially marketed as "soundproof"), the reduction in noise was significant compared to the old single panes.
Before, I could clearly hear cars, lawn mowers, even people talking on the sidewalk. After installing the new double-pane Low-E windows, a lot of that noise is dulled or gone. It's not completely silent – I can still hear very loud trucks or a siren faintly – but normal traffic noise and outside chatter are mostly muffled now.
In my case, I did go with triple-pane for a couple of windows specifically because I wanted extra noise reduction in my home office. Those triple-pane windows make it even quieter, but honestly the jump from single-pane to double-pane was the biggest improvement. Double-pane already creates an insulating air (or gas) layer that dampens sound vibrations.
If noise is a major concern, you can look for windows with laminated glass (some non-impact windows offer a laminated interior pane as a sound dampening option, and of course impact windows have that by default). Laminated glass will cut noise further. But even without that, just getting modern well-sealed double-pane units will likely impress you on the noise front.
For example, at night I used to hear every loud motorcycle passing by. Now, with the new windows closed, I only notice the very loudest noises and even those are much quieter. It's a nice bonus, as you said. My bedrooms are a lot more peaceful for sure.
So short answer: yes, expect a noticeable decrease in outside noise with new double-pane windows. And if you want to maximize that, consider options like thicker or laminated glass in a few key locations.
@samjones592 That's great to hear, thanks! Quieter bedrooms will definitely be welcome along with the lower cooling bills. Sounds like double-pane will be a win-win for me. Appreciate the insight!