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Why is taking out old windows such a pain?

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fashion462
Posts: 19
(@fashion462)
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Yeah, those old windows are stubborn. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve tried to pry out a sash only to realize the paint’s basically cemented everything together. I usually score the paint lines first, but even then, it’s a gamble. I’m with you—saving the stops is rarely worth the effort. Sometimes you just gotta accept a little collateral damage and move on.


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Posts: 4
(@surfing_simba)
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Sometimes you just gotta accept a little collateral damage and move on.

Yeah, I hear you, but has anyone actually managed to save the stops without splintering at least one? I keep thinking there’s some magic trick I’m missing. Do you guys use a heat gun or just brute force? I always feel like I’m one slip away from breaking the glass...


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Posts: 4
(@marketing520)
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I’ve tried the heat gun thing and honestly, all I got was scorched paint and a headache. Brute force feels like the only real option half the time, but I’ve managed to save a couple stops by running a really thin putty knife behind them and just inching along super slow. Still, I’ve snapped more than I’ve saved. Maybe the real trick is just lowering expectations... or stocking up on wood filler.


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Posts: 11
(@rachelmaverick907)
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That sounds about right—my first attempt at removing a sash stop ended with a splintered mess and a lot of cursing under my breath. I tried the heat gun too, thinking maybe the paint would loosen up, but all I got was a weird smell and some bubbling. I’ve had a little better luck using a flexible oscillating tool blade, sort of wiggling it behind the stop and gently prying as I go, but it’s slow work. Still, I end up patching a bunch of spots with wood filler anyway.

One thing I keep wondering is if the age of the paint or the type of wood makes a difference. My place is from the 1940s, so everything’s basically fossilized. Has anyone tried using a solvent or something to soften up the old paint before prying? I’m almost tempted to just accept the damage and get creative with the trim afterwards.


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skier48
Posts: 17
(@skier48)
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Has anyone tried using a solvent or something to soften up the old paint before prying?

Tried a citrus-based paint remover once—didn’t do much except make everything sticky and harder to grip. I swear, the older the wood, the more it just laughs at anything chemical. Ever notice if humidity makes a difference? My stops seem even more stubborn on dry winter days.


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Posts: 29
(@mollyc60)
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Funny, I actually had better luck with the citrus stuff, but only when I left it on for way longer than the label said—like, we’re talking hours. Still, I get what you mean about sticky messes. As for humidity, I’m not totally convinced it helps. I tried prying in the middle of a muggy summer and just ended up sweating more than usual, while the stops still clung for dear life. Maybe it’s just the curse of old houses?


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shadowbuilder
Posts: 21
(@shadowbuilder)
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As for humidity, I’m not totally convinced it helps. I tried prying in the middle of a muggy summer and just ended up sweating more than usual, while the stops still clung for dear life.

Yeah, humidity’s overrated for this stuff. In fact, I find it just makes the putty even gummier and harder to get a grip on. Old houses definitely have their own “charm” when it comes to window removal... Did you notice if the stops were painted in place too? That’s usually what gets me—layers of paint acting like superglue.


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Posts: 7
(@crypto_blaze)
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Painted-in stops are the worst. I’ve had to run a utility knife along every seam just to break that paint bond—sometimes I even use a heat gun on low to help soften things up. Humidity just makes me curse more, honestly. If the putty’s too soft, it’s even messier to clean up. Old windows really don’t give up easy.


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Posts: 12
(@fitness_jack)
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Painted-in stops are the worst. I’ve had to run a utility knife along every seam just to break that paint bond—sometimes I even use a heat gun on low to help soften things up.

That’s all too familiar. My house is from the 40s, and every window was basically glued in place with layers of paint and some mystery caulk. I found that after scoring with a knife, a stiff putty knife works better than prying with a screwdriver—less likely to gouge the wood. But yeah, when it’s humid, everything feels gummy and nothing wants to come loose cleanly. Sometimes I wonder if they were trying to make these things permanent...


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reader143876
Posts: 8
(@reader143876)
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I hear you on the mystery caulk—mine had some kind of rock-hard putty under the paint that laughed at my heat gun. Ended up using a multi-tool with a thin blade to work along the stops, then tapped the putty knife in gently. Even then, I still managed to chip a bit of trim here and there. It’s like these old windows were meant to outlast us...


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