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What do you do with old window frames and glass?

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Posts: 21
(@cathymoore159)
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Honestly, I think you did yourself a favor by stripping everything back, even if it was a pain. Quick fixes just don’t hold up in humid spots—been there, regretted that. I replaced a couple of my old windows last year and the difference in drafts (and my energy bill) was pretty noticeable. Still, if the frames have character or you’re not ready to shell out for new ones, putting in the work like you did pays off long-term. Sometimes the hassle upfront means less stress down the road... even if it’s not fun in the moment.


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michaelv36
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(@michaelv36)
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I get the appeal of starting over, but I’ve actually had some luck with less drastic measures—at least when the frames aren’t totally shot. For example, I tried using epoxy wood filler on a couple of my old sashes and then added weatherstripping. It wasn’t as airtight as brand new windows, but it did cut down on drafts and kept the original look. Maybe not perfect for super humid spots, but sometimes it’s worth experimenting before going all in. Anyone else tried patching instead of replacing?


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oevans81
Posts: 13
(@oevans81)
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- Totally get where you’re coming from. I’ve been going back and forth between patching vs. replacing on my 1970s windows.
- That line you wrote—

“it did cut down on drafts and kept the original look”
—really hits home for me. Keeping the vibe of the place matters, especially with older houses.
- Tried a similar fix with wood hardener and caulk. Honestly, it helped more than I expected, but I still notice a little rattle when it gets windy.
- Weatherstripping was a game changer for me too. Not perfect, but better than nothing.
- I do worry about long-term cost though... like, am I just delaying the inevitable big spend?
- Haven’t tried epoxy yet—curious if it holds up in freezing temps? Winters here get rough.
- Agree it’s not always worth ripping everything out if you can squeeze a few more years out of what’s there. Sometimes “good enough” is actually pretty satisfying.


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artist69
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(@artist69)
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“I do worry about long-term cost though... like, am I just delaying the inevitable big spend?”

Honestly, that’s a fair concern. I’ve seen folks patch and patch, but eventually the rot or drafts win out, especially with 1970s wood. Sometimes you get a good run out of repairs—especially if you’re handy and don’t mind a little upkeep each year—but it’s not always a forever fix. If you’re noticing rattling, that’s usually the sash or loose glazing. You can snug that up with new stops or even some discreet pins, but it’s a band-aid.

On epoxy: it actually does pretty well in cold, as long as you use a marine-grade or exterior formula and let it cure above freezing. I’ve used it on sills in Minnesota winters and it held up, but prep is everything—if you’re fighting active moisture or rot, it won’t last.

Keeping the original look is huge, though. I get why you’d want to avoid full replacement. Sometimes “good enough” buys you five more years, and that’s not nothing. Just keep an eye on the frames—once they go soft, it’s tough to reverse.


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Posts: 19
(@sports_coco)
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Yeah, you’re not wrong about the “band-aid” fixes. I’ve seen some windows hold up for years with regular TLC, but once that frame gets punky, it’s game over. I always say, you can epoxy and reglaze all you want, but if your screwdriver sinks in like it’s butter... time to start budgeting for replacements. Sometimes you just gotta know when to fold ‘em.


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patj41
Posts: 31
(@patj41)
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That hits home—literally. I tried patching up a sash last spring, thinking I could squeeze another year out of it. Looked okay at first, but by fall, the bottom rail was crumbling like old cake. Sometimes you just gotta admit defeat and move on. You’re right though, once the wood’s soft, no amount of filler’s gonna save it.


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kathy_storm
Posts: 16
(@kathy_storm)
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Yeah, same story here. Tried to rescue an old frame with wood hardener and filler, but once the rot sets in, it just keeps spreading. At some point, patching feels like throwing good effort after bad. Plus, all those drafts just kill your heating bill. Sometimes replacing is the only way to actually improve efficiency, even if it stings the wallet up front.


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huntern81
Posts: 16
(@huntern81)
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I get where you're coming from—sometimes it feels like you’re just chasing your tail with old wood frames. But I have to say, I’ve had a bit of a different experience. My place is pushing 80 years old, and the original windows were in rough shape when I moved in. I thought about just ripping them out and going new, but the price tag was no joke. Instead, I tried a pretty aggressive repair: dug out all the rot, treated what was left with borate, then rebuilt with epoxy and a couple layers of paint. It was a solid weekend project, but honestly, it worked better than I expected. No more drafts, and my heating bill actually dropped a bit.

I’m not saying it’s always worth saving them—sometimes the rot’s just too far gone, or the frame’s warped beyond hope. But if the structure’s mostly solid, a deep rehab can buy you years. Plus, the old glass has a certain charm you just don’t get with new stuff. And there’s the landfill angle, too… always feels weird tossing out all that wood and glass if it can be saved.

That said, I totally get the frustration. If you’re fighting rot every season, it probably isn’t worth it. But I wouldn’t write off repairs across the board, especially if budget’s tight or you’re attached to the look of the originals. Sometimes a little extra effort up front saves a lot down the road.


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drones506
Posts: 10
(@drones506)
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That lines up with what I’ve seen. Restoring old sashes with epoxy consolidation and borate treatment can be surprisingly effective if you catch the decay early. I’d add that making sure the glazing putty is intact and the weatherstripping is upgraded goes a long way for energy efficiency, too. I’ve seen people skip those steps and end up with recurring drafts. Sometimes, though, if you find softwood frames that have been painted shut for decades, it’s just not worth the labor. But when the joinery’s still solid, the longevity you can get out of a proper rehab is impressive.


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Posts: 14
(@surfer32)
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Yeah, I’ve wrestled with those painted-shut frames before—sometimes it feels like they’re holding the whole house together. I’ve had decent luck with epoxy, but honestly, if the rot’s deep or the wood crumbles when you poke it, I just call it and replace. But when you catch it early and actually do the putty and weatherstripping right, they’ll outlast anything from the big box store. Funny how a little patience (and a lot of cursing) pays off.


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