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Getting your space ready before new windows go in—my checklist

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astrology_karen
Posts: 13
(@astrology_karen)
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- I’ve had that same fine dust sneak into places I never expected, even after taping and covering everything. The only thing that helped a bit was running a cheap box fan in the window blowing out—kind of made a negative pressure zone so less dust drifted through the house. Not perfect, but it cut down on the worst of it.

- For taping, I’ve had mixed luck too. Blue tape sometimes pulls up old trim paint, especially if it’s humid or if the paint’s brittle. The hair dryer trick is clever—never tried pre-warming the tape but I might next time. Sometimes I just use painter’s plastic and painter’s caulk for a better seal, but that’s a pain to clean up.

- Outlets and switches are always full of surprises. I usually stuff them with a little bit of damp paper towel before taping over, then vacuum out after the mess is done. Looks weird, but it works.

- Vents: I use magnetic vent covers plus towels for double protection. Still end up finding grit months later though...

Old houses definitely keep you guessing—there’s always one more spot you missed.


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pghost68
Posts: 9
(@pghost68)
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You nailed it with the negative pressure trick. I swear, dust is sneakier than my dog when there’s food on the counter. I’m a big fan of painter’s plastic and caulk too—messy, but at least it doesn’t peel off 60-year-old paint like blue tape does. For outlets, I just cut a square of plastic and slap it on with low-tack tape, but your damp towel hack sounds smarter (and maybe less likely to spark a debate with the electrician). Old houses are basically dust factories with a roof, let’s be real...


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gaming517
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Old houses are basically dust factories with a roof, let’s be real...

That’s the truth. I’ve done window installs in places where you’d swear the walls were made of flour. Painter’s plastic is my go-to too, but I’ve run into issues with caulk pulling off fragile trim. Ever tried using ZipWall poles? They’re a bit pricey, but they save me headaches on delicate surfaces. As for outlets, I usually just tape over them, but I’m curious—has anyone actually had issues with static or sparks when covering them? I’ve heard mixed things.


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Posts: 11
(@writer95)
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I’ve taped over outlets plenty of times and never had a spark or static issue, but I usually use painter’s tape, not plastic, just to be safe. The only time I got a little zap was when I used cheap electrical tape and it left residue everywhere—never again. ZipWall poles are solid, but if you’re on a budget, I’ve rigged up shower curtain rods and they do the trick for dust barriers. Just gotta watch out for old plaster crumbling if you lean anything against it... learned that the hard way.


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mythology_jeff
Posts: 13
(@mythology_jeff)
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Just gotta watch out for old plaster crumbling if you lean anything against it... learned that the hard way.

That’s the truth. My 1920s place has plaster that’s basically held together with hope and dust, so even painter’s tape can pull off chunks if I’m not careful. I’ve started using those foam outlet covers instead of taping—less mess, and I can reuse them. ZipWall’s nice, but honestly, a couple of spring clamps and an old bedsheet have gotten me through more window swaps than I care to admit.


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diver67
Posts: 5
(@diver67)
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- Agree on the plaster risk—older houses are a minefield for that.
- I’ve seen painter’s tape bring half a wall with it, so now I just use drop cloths and avoid sticking anything directly.
- If you have to mark walls, blue tape with a layer of parchment paper underneath helps, but it’s fussy.
- Bedsheet trick works, but I’ll add: plastic sheeting taped to the floor keeps cleanup easier, especially if you’re dealing with lead paint dust.
- Never underestimate how much dust gets everywhere... cover more than you think you need to.


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bfurry72
Posts: 14
(@bfurry72)
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Never underestimate how much dust gets everywhere... cover more than you think you need to.

That really hits home. I thought I was over-prepared last time, but the fine dust still found its way into the next room—no joke. I like your parchment paper tip, though I admit I usually just risk it and touch up paint after. Do you ever find plastic sheeting gets slippery, or is that just me being clumsy? Either way, your checklist sounds solid.


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Posts: 14
(@tobynelson997)
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Plastic sheeting definitely gets slick, especially if you’re tracking dust or wearing socks. I’ve seen more than one person nearly wipe out on it. Honestly, I’m not sold on parchment paper—seems like it’d tear too easily, especially if you’re moving ladders or tools around. I usually go with heavy drop cloths for the main walkways, then tape up doorways with zip walls. Does anyone actually get away without a little paint touch-up, though? I haven’t yet…


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gparker76
Posts: 1
(@gparker76)
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- Heavy canvas drop cloths are my go-to, too—less slipping, and they hold up when you’re dragging stuff around.
- For dust, I’ll sometimes use a sticky mat at the entry point. Catches a lot more than I expected.
- Zip walls are great, though I’ve had tape peel paint before—blue painter’s tape seems safest.
- I’ve never gotten through a window swap without at least some touch-up, especially if the trim’s old or the walls aren’t perfectly square.

Has anyone tried those self-adhesive floor films? Wondering if they’re any less slick than plastic sheeting...


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Posts: 14
(@swimmer45)
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I’ve used those self-adhesive floor films a couple times—honestly, I’m not convinced they’re much less slick than regular plastic sheeting. They do stick better, so they don’t bunch up as easily, but if you’ve got dust or grit underfoot, it can still get slippery. Plus, peeling them up sometimes leaves a sticky residue, especially if it’s been down for more than a day or two. I keep going back to canvas for most jobs, even though it’s bulkier to haul around.


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