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Cheap ways to dress up boring window frames?

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Posts: 16
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(@rwilliams27)
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Tried to give my living room a facelift without dropping a ton of cash, so I slapped on some MDF trim around the windows. Honestly, it looks way better than the old, plain drywall edges, but I’m worried about how it’ll hold up over time (humidity’s a pain here). Anyone else gone the budget route for window trim? Did it last or end up looking rough after a while?


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(@crafter19)
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MDF’s a solid choice for a quick upgrade, especially if you’re trying to keep costs down. The trick is sealing every edge—primer and a good paint make a world of difference. I’ve seen MDF swell and get rough in spots where caulk or paint was missed, especially near leaky windows or in damp climates. If you’ve sealed it up tight, you’ll probably get a few good years out of it. If not, you might see some swelling or paint bubbling after a couple of humid seasons. It’s not a forever fix, but for the price, it’s hard to beat for a facelift.


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Posts: 8
(@emily_clark)
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I get the appeal of MDF for quick fixes, but I’m always a little nervous about using it near windows, especially in older homes where drafts and leaks are more common.

“I’ve seen MDF swell and get rough in spots where caulk or paint was missed, especially near leaky windows or in damp climates.”
That’s exactly what happened in my last place—looked great at first, but after the first winter, the bottom edge started to puff up. Has anyone tried using pre-primed pine instead? It costs a bit more, but I wonder if it holds up better over time with less fuss about sealing every inch.


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bailey_walker
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(@bailey_walker)
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Pre-primed pine is definitely a step up from MDF, especially anywhere moisture might sneak in. I’ve swapped out a bunch of window trim in old houses, and honestly, pine holds up way better if you’re not 100% on top of sealing every little seam. Sure, it costs a bit more, but you won’t be cursing swollen corners after the first rainy season. Just watch for knots bleeding through—sometimes they sneak past the primer and show up months later. A quick hit with shellac on the knots before painting usually does the trick.


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Posts: 16
Topic starter
(@rwilliams27)
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Just watch for knots bleeding through—sometimes they sneak past the primer and show up months later.

Yeah, I’ve heard about the pine vs. MDF debate—makes sense, especially with humidity. I went with MDF mostly because it was cheap and easy to cut, but now I’m noticing a couple corners starting to swell where I didn’t get the caulk perfect. Not terrible, but it’s only been a year. Might try pine next time if I get motivated to redo it. The shellac tip for knots is handy, though. Didn’t even know that was a thing.


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scott_anderson
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(@scott_anderson)
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I went down the MDF route for my trim a few years back—mainly for the price, like you. Looked great at first, but the slightest bit of moisture and those edges started puffing up, especially near the windows that get condensation. Pine’s more work with the knots, but at least you can sand or patch it if things go sideways. Shellac’s a lifesaver for knots, though I learned that one the hard way after a yellow splotch showed up right in my living room.


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Posts: 10
(@kathyn83)
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That’s exactly what I was worried about with MDF—seems like it’s always a gamble if there’s any moisture around. I get the appeal for the price, but long-term, those swollen edges just aren’t worth the headache. Pine’s got its own quirks for sure, but at least you can fix it up if something goes wrong. I tried using a water-based primer on knots once… big mistake. Ended up with ghostly spots peeking through after a few months. Shellac is definitely the way to go, even if it’s an extra step.


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Posts: 15
(@minimalism_bella)
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I get the shellac thing, but honestly, I’ve seen MDF hold up fine if you’re careful with sealing—especially if the window’s not in a bathroom or kitchen. Pine’s easier to patch, sure, but sometimes the knots drive me nuts. Half the time I’m just fighting sap bleed no matter what primer I use...


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cloudhill239
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(@cloudhill239)
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Yeah, sap bleed from pine is one of those things that just keeps coming back to haunt you, no matter how many coats of primer you throw at it. I’ve had mixed luck even with the so-called “stain-blocking” primers—sometimes it’s fine, sometimes the yellow stains show up months later. With MDF, the main thing I worry about is swelling if any moisture sneaks in. I’ve seen window frames look great for years, then suddenly start to puff up at the corners after a bad rainstorm. Maybe overkill, but I usually run a bead of caulk at every joint, just in case. Has anyone tried finger-jointed pine? I’ve heard it’s more stable, but I haven’t used it much myself.


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abrown50
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(@abrown50)
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Finger-jointed pine’s a mixed bag in my experience. I’ve used it on a few jobs thinking it’d be less prone to warping and sap bleed, and yeah, it holds up better than regular pine—at least for a while. But I’ve still seen the joints telegraph through the paint after a couple of seasons, especially if there’s any movement or moisture. If you’re going that route, make sure every cut end gets sealed up tight, and don’t skimp on the caulk. I’ve learned the hard way that even “stable” wood isn’t bulletproof once the weather gets involved.


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