PTFE spray is definitely underrated—good call on using it for bare wood. I've found it works pretty well, especially if you're diligent about reapplying like you mentioned. Painted surfaces do tend to glide better, probably because the paint seals the wood grain, reducing friction. But honestly, if humidity isn't causing you issues, you're already ahead of the game. I've seen installs where moisture swells the wood just enough to make windows stick, and then you're stuck sanding or planing down edges again. Your routine of reapplying every six months is smart, even if it's just precautionary. Better safe than sorry, right? Sounds like you've got a solid system going.
"Painted surfaces do tend to glide better, probably because the paint seals the wood grain, reducing friction."
That's a good point, but I've actually had mixed results with painted surfaces. Sometimes the paint layer itself can get tacky, especially in warmer weather, and cause sticking issues. I've found that a thin coat of paste wax on painted frames every year or so helps keep things sliding smoothly without the stickiness. But yeah, humidity is the real enemy here... learned that the hard way after sanding swollen window edges one too many times.
I've actually found that paint can sometimes make things worse rather than better. Like you mentioned:
"Sometimes the paint layer itself can get tacky, especially in warmer weather..."
In my experience, even high-quality paints eventually soften or degrade slightly under direct sunlight or heat, creating more friction. I've had better luck using a clear polyurethane finish—it's less prone to getting sticky and seems to hold up better over time. Still, humidity is definitely the toughest factor to control...
Yeah, paint can definitely cause issues down the line—seen it plenty of times myself. Polyurethane does hold up better, but even that can fail eventually, especially if moisture sneaks underneath. One thing I've found helpful is applying a thin layer of silicone spray lubricant along window tracks after installation. It doesn't gum up in heat or humidity, and keeps things sliding smoothly. Not perfect, but it's saved me some callbacks over the years...
That's a solid tip about the silicone spray—I've seen similar results myself. Moisture intrusion is definitely tricky, and you're right, even polyurethane isn't foolproof. Another thing I've found helpful is ensuring proper flashing and sealing around the window frame during installation. It might seem like extra work upfront, but it significantly reduces moisture issues later on. Good to see others thinking proactively about these details... they really do make a difference in the long run.
- Silicone spray can help, but honestly, I've seen it attract dirt and grime over time... not ideal.
- Flashing and sealing are key, agreed, but don't underestimate the importance of proper drainage paths. Even the best sealing won't hold forever.
- Personally, I prefer a breathable membrane behind the flashing—lets moisture escape if it ever does get in. Saved me headaches more than once.
I've gotta say, breathable membranes sound good on paper, but I'm still a bit skeptical. Had one installed behind my flashing a couple years back, and while it did seem to help at first, moisture still found its way in eventually. Turns out the real issue was poor drainage around the window frame itself. Once I fixed that, things improved dramatically. Membranes might help, sure...but they're no substitute for getting your drainage right from the start.
You're spot-on about drainage being key. Seen it time and again—membranes are good as a secondary barrier, but they're not miracle workers. A few things I've learned over the years:
- Membranes do help manage moisture, but only if your primary drainage is sorted first.
- A lot of installs overlook proper sill pans or sloped sills under the window; those can make a huge difference.
- Even tiny gaps or improperly sealed joints around flashing can let water in, membranes or not.
- Always worth double-checking your flashing overlaps and corner seals—small details matter more than you'd think.
Sounds like you nailed the real issue though. Good on you for tracking that down...not everyone takes the time to dig deeper.
Totally agree about the sill pans—it's funny how often they're overlooked. When we redid our windows a couple years back, I remember the contractor giving me a puzzled look when I asked about sloped sills. He was like, "Huh, most folks don't even mention that." But after seeing how much water can sneak in through tiny gaps, it seemed like a no-brainer to me.
Have you noticed if certain flashing materials hold up better over time? I've seen some aluminum flashing corrode pretty quickly, especially near coastal areas. Wondering if anyone's had better luck with vinyl or composite stuff...
Anyway, good on you for catching those small details early. It's satisfying when you finally pinpoint the real culprit behind moisture issues. Feels like a mini victory, doesn't it?
Interesting point about aluminum flashing corroding—I live near the coast too, and honestly, aluminum's held up pretty well for me. Had vinyl flashing on a shed once, and it warped badly after a few hot summers. Maybe composites are better now, but I'm still skeptical. Seems like every material has its quirks... sometimes it's just luck of the draw with weather and installation quality.