I’ve actually had better luck skipping the scrap wood clamp and just pre-bending the aluminum with a brake (borrowed one from a buddy—total lifesaver). It’s not perfect, but it gets things closer to flush before you even try to fit it. The painter’s tape is great, but I found a sharp pencil line works just as well if you’re careful. Those old frames are a pain, but I don’t think the pros have a magic fix—just more patience and practice, maybe.
You nailed it—those old window frames really are stubborn. I’ve done a few myself over the years and it’s always a bit of trial and error. Borrowing a brake makes a world of difference, though I’ll admit I’ve just muscled through with hand tools before when I was in a pinch. I like your point about patience; sometimes it’s just about slowing down and not expecting perfection. The painter’s tape trick is handy, but I’ve also just used whatever pencil I could find in the junk drawer. At the end of the day, if it keeps the weather out and looks halfway decent, that’s a win in my book.
I get what you’re saying about patience and not expecting perfection, but I gotta admit, I’m more in the “good enough is good enough” camp—especially when it comes to these ancient windows. I tried the painter’s tape thing once and ended up with more tape stuck to my fingers than the frame. Honestly, I just eyeball it now. If the wind isn’t whistling through in January, I call it a success. Maybe my standards are low, but hey, it’s an old house... character, right?
I hear you on the “good enough” approach, but I’ve seen a lot of folks regret it when those drafts sneak back in mid-winter. Sometimes a little extra effort upfront—like using a heat gun on shrink film—saves a lot of cursing later. Just saying, old windows can surprise you.
That’s a fair point—old windows are notorious for letting those sneaky drafts back in just when you think you’ve sealed everything up. I’ve definitely had that moment mid-January where I realized my “good enough” job with the plastic film wasn’t quite cutting it, especially around the corners. Using a heat gun does seem to get a tighter seal compared to just a hair dryer, but I’ve also run into issues with the film pulling away if the window frame isn’t perfectly clean or if there’s old paint flaking off.
Have you ever tried using rope caulk along with the shrink film? I found that combo worked better for me, especially in an old brick house where nothing is quite square. Curious if anyone’s had luck with more permanent fixes, like interior storm panels or magnetic inserts—worth the extra investment, or still prone to the same draft issues?
I’ve tried the rope caulk and shrink film combo too, especially in the living room where those old double-hungs just never quite close tight. It definitely helped, but I still get a bit of a breeze on really windy days. I actually built some DIY interior storm panels with acrylic sheets and magnetic tape last winter—honestly, they made a bigger difference than I expected. The seal’s not perfect (nothing ever is with 100-year-old trim), but it cut down on drafts and condensation. Only downside is the initial cost and the hassle of storing them off-season. Has anyone managed to make theirs less bulky? That’s been my biggest gripe so far...
Honestly, I think the bulkiness is just the price we pay for a decent seal, especially with old windows. I tried using thinner acrylic one year to cut down on storage space, but it bowed in the middle and didn’t seal worth a darn—ended up with more condensation than before. The only thing that helped was making the panels as close-fitting as possible, but even then, you’re dealing with awkward sizes and fragile corners.
Have you looked into polycarbonate instead of acrylic? It’s a bit pricier, but way tougher and you can go thinner without it flexing as much. Still not exactly “slim,” but at least I wasn’t worried about snapping them in half every time I moved them to the attic. As for storage, I’ve seen people hang them flat against basement rafters or behind doors, but honestly, unless you’ve got loads of space, they’re always in the way.
I do think interior storms are worth the hassle though. Rope caulk and film are just stopgaps in my book—fine for a season or two, but nothing long term. Curious if anyone’s tried those flexible magnetic gaskets instead of tape? Supposedly makes for a better seal and might let you use thinner panels... but I haven’t pulled the trigger yet. Worth it, or just another gimmick?
I actually tried the magnetic gasket thing last winter on two windows, just to see if it’d live up to the hype. It’s a bit fiddly to line up at first, but once it’s on, the seal feels really solid—definitely better than the double-sided tape stuff. I used 1/8" polycarbonate panels and didn’t notice any bowing or drafts. Only downside is the magnets add a little thickness, so it’s not a huge space saver, but at least the panels pop off easier for cleaning or if you need to open a window. Not a miracle fix, but I’d say it’s a step up from tape, especially if you’re planning to reuse the panels year after year.
Only downside is the magnets add a little thickness, so it’s not a huge space saver, but at least the panels pop off easier for cleaning or if you need to open a window.
That’s actually the main reason I went with the magnetic setup too—cleaning is way less of a pain. I tried the shrink film kits my first winter and honestly, they drove me nuts. The tape left residue and the film ripped if you even looked at it wrong. I’ll take a little extra thickness if it means I’m not redoing everything every year. My only gripe is the upfront cost, but if you’re in it for the long haul, it makes sense.
I get the appeal of the shrink film kits—they’re cheap and seem easy at first—but in my 1920s house, they just didn’t hold up. The tape got gummy and I was constantly re-sticking corners. The magnetic panels were a stretch for my budget, but honestly, not having to peel off tape every spring is worth the trade-off for a bit more bulk. I do wish they were a little sleeker, though.