Still, nothing beats the charm of real wood for old houses... just a lot more upkeep.
Yeah, that’s the tradeoff. I’ve installed Marvin and Kolbe wood windows in a few 1920s homes—solid construction, but you’re definitely signing up for periodic scraping and repainting. Fiberglass is a breeze by comparison, but nothing matches that old-school wood profile. Just budget for touch-ups every few years, especially if you get a lot of sun on those sashes.
I get what you’re saying about the upkeep, but honestly, I think it’s worth it if you care about keeping the original feel of an old house. We just moved into a 1938 place and the previous owners swapped out half the windows for vinyl—wish they hadn’t. The wood ones left are drafty and need work, but they look so much better, especially with the original trim.
I looked at Marvin and Kolbe too, but ended up going with Sierra Pacific because their profiles matched my old sashes a bit closer. It’s true, though—maintenance is a pain. I’m already planning to sand and repaint every couple years, and I’m not thrilled about it. But compared to the look of fiberglass or vinyl, it’s a tradeoff I’m willing to make.
If you’re even a little handy, it’s not that bad, and there’s something kind of satisfying about fixing up real wood. You just have to go in knowing you’ll be out there with a scraper every so often... but hey, that’s part of the charm, right?
Couldn’t agree more about the charm you get with real wood windows—vinyl just never looks quite right, especially in an old place. I see a lot of folks regret swapping out originals for something “maintenance free,” but then the house loses that character you can’t really fake. Sierra Pacific is solid, and their profiles do match up better than most, though I’ve had decent luck with Marvin too if you’re willing to pay a bit extra.
You nailed it on the upkeep—it’s not glamorous work, but honestly, after a couple rounds of sanding and painting, it becomes pretty routine. Biggest thing I tell people: don’t skip priming those sills and keep an eye out for soft spots early on. Catching rot before it spreads saves way more hassle (and cash) down the road.
Funny enough, half my clients swear they’ll refinish every few years... maybe one in ten actually does. But hey, even letting them go a bit rough around the edges still beats plastic windows that look like they belong in a strip mall.
I get the appeal of wood, no question—my 1920s place still has the originals and they just fit. But I’m always torn about energy efficiency. Even with storms, I can feel the drafts in winter unless I really stay on top of weatherstripping and caulking. Has anyone tried those newer wood windows with insulated glass? Curious if they actually make a noticeable difference or if it’s mostly marketing. I like the look, but don’t want to lose half my heat out the gaps every year...
- Totally get where you’re coming from—originals look great but can be a pain for drafts.
- Insulated glass in new wood windows does make a real difference, especially double or even triple pane.
- Brands like Marvin and Andersen do solid wood windows with modern weatherstripping and thermal breaks—less air leakage than old ones, even with storms.
- One thing: installation matters as much as the window itself. Even great windows will leak if they’re not shimmed and sealed right... seen it too many times.
- You’ll still need to keep an eye on caulking over time, but the drafts should be way less noticeable. Not just marketing hype, but not magic either.
Marvin and Andersen both hold up pretty well in my experience, but I’ve noticed some of the smaller regional shops can actually do a better job matching old profiles. Anyone here gone the custom route instead of the big brands? Wondering how the long-term durability compares.