I've had pretty good luck with epoxy too, but you're right—it's not a "set it and forget it" kinda deal. One thing I've found helpful is to do a quick check each spring. Just poke around the frames, especially the bottom corners where water likes to sit, and see if anything feels soft or flaky. If you catch it early, it's usually just a quick sand-down and repaint instead of a full-blown repair.
Also, don't underestimate the power of caulk! A good-quality exterior caulk around the edges can really help keep moisture out. Just make sure it's paintable, or you'll end up with a weird shiny line around your windows (ask me how I know...).
And yeah, totally agree on the paint—I've been using a semi-gloss exterior acrylic that's held up surprisingly well. It seems to flex better with temperature changes and doesn't crack as easily as some others I've tried. Not saying it's magic or anything, but hey, every little bit helps when you're trying to stretch those windows another few years.
"Also, don't underestimate the power of caulk! A good-quality exterior caulk around the edges can really help keep moisture out."
Caulk is definitely underrated, but I've found that even the best stuff tends to shrink or crack over time, especially in climates with harsh winters. Have you tried using backer rod behind the caulk line? It seems to help maintain flexibility and prevent cracking. Curious if anyone's had success with other methods or products to keep caulking intact longer...
I've had pretty good luck with backer rod—it definitely cuts down on cracking, especially if you have wider gaps to fill. Another thing I've noticed helps is making sure the wood underneath is super dry and primed before caulking. Moisture trapped behind caulk seems to speed up the cracking process big-time. Also, polyurethane-based caulks seem a bit more flexible over time compared to silicone or acrylic-latex blends... just my two cents based on trial and error.
"Moisture trapped behind caulk seems to speed up the cracking process big-time."
Yeah, learned this one the hard way myself. Last summer I tackled our old wooden windows—thought I'd done a solid job prepping, but rushed the drying stage after a rainy week. Within months, cracks started popping up everywhere. Ended up redoing it properly: sanded thoroughly, let the wood dry out completely (used a moisture meter this time), primed carefully, and switched to polyurethane caulk. Night-and-day difference... no cracks yet, fingers crossed.
"used a moisture meter this time"
Interesting, never thought about using a moisture meter for window frames. Did it really make that much difference, or was switching to polyurethane caulk the bigger factor in preventing cracks? Curious if it's worth the extra step...
Tried both ways myself. Moisture meter was handy, but honestly, switching to poly caulk made the bigger difference. Meter's nice if you're picky, but probably overkill for most DIYers...
"Meter's nice if you're picky, but probably overkill for most DIYers..."
Yeah, I totally get what you're saying about the moisture meter. I borrowed one from a buddy once when I was dealing with some stubborn window frames—honestly, it was neat to see the numbers, but after a while, I realized it wasn't changing how I tackled the job. Switching to poly caulk was a game changer for me too. I used to swear by regular silicone, but after a couple of seasons, it always seemed to shrink or crack. Polyurethane just seems to hold up better against weather and temperature swings.
One other thing I've found helpful is giving the wood a good sanding and priming before caulking. It takes a bit more time upfront, but the caulk adheres better and lasts longer. Learned that the hard way after redoing the same window twice in two years... not fun.
Good points on the poly—silicone's let me down more than once, too. Another thing I do is angle the sill slightly outward when refinishing...helps water runoff and saves headaches later. Learned that trick after one too many soggy sills, haha.
Totally agree on angling the sill—wish I'd figured that out sooner myself, would've saved me from some nasty surprises. Another thing I've found helpful is making sure the drip edge underneath is solid and properly routed. Seems minor, but it makes a huge difference in keeping moisture off the wood. Learned this after trying to shortcut once...ended up with a window sill that looked more like sponge cake than pine. Lesson learned, haha.
Good points on the drip edge. A couple other things I've noticed:
- Weatherstripping: upgrading to silicone or EPDM seals helps a ton with drafts and moisture.
- Regular paint touch-ups: tedious, yeah, but beats replacing rotted wood every few years...
Ask me how I know, lol.