Glad you got it sorted, but are you sure silicone sealant was the best choice there? I've seen cases where silicone traps moisture behind siding, causing hidden rot later on... Maybe a flashing adjustment would've been safer long-term.
- Silicone can be a bit tricky for sure—seen it cause issues myself, especially if moisture gets trapped behind. Had a buddy who sealed up his windows tight with silicone, thinking he was golden, but ended up pulling off siding two years later to find hidden rot. Not fun.
- Flashing adjustments definitely seem like the safer long-term bet. Proper flashing directs water away rather than just sealing it out temporarily, which sounds ideal for your situation.
- Curious though... did you notice any underlying moisture damage before applying the silicone? Or was it more preventative? Sometimes it's tough to gauge what's going on beneath the surface until you open things up.
- Also, did you consider using something like a polyurethane-based sealant instead? I've heard good things about it being more breathable and less likely to trap moisture.
- Either way, glad you're seeing improvement—window frame issues can be such a headache to deal with.
"did you consider using something like a polyurethane-based sealant instead?"
Good call on the polyurethane suggestion. Silicone can definitely trap moisture if you're not careful. I've found polyurethane sealants to be more forgiving—especially around windows. If anyone's tackling this, here's what I'd recommend: remove old caulk thoroughly, inspect carefully for hidden moisture or rot, apply proper flashing tape first, then finish with a quality polyurethane sealant. Takes a bit longer upfront, but saves headaches down the road... learned that one the hard way myself.
Interesting points about polyurethane, but I'm not totally convinced it's always the better choice. I've had mixed results myself:
- Polyurethane does bond really well, but it can be a pain if you ever need to redo or repair later. Removing cured polyurethane sealant is no joke... spent hours scraping that stuff off once.
- Silicone, while it can trap moisture if applied incorrectly, has its place too. I've found that high-quality neutral-cure silicone (not the cheap stuff) can actually hold up pretty well around windows, especially if you're careful about prep and application.
- Also, polyurethane tends to yellow and degrade under UV exposure over time. Not a huge deal if you're painting over it, but something to consider if aesthetics matter.
"apply proper flashing tape first, then finish with a quality polyurethane sealant."
Definitely agree on the flashing tape though—skipping that step is asking for trouble. Learned that lesson after dealing with hidden rot behind what looked like perfectly sealed windows...
Good points all around, especially about the UV issues with polyurethane. I've seen a few jobs where the sealant turned a nasty shade of yellow after a couple years in direct sun—not exactly appealing. Neutral-cure silicone is definitely underrated; prep really does make or break the seal's longevity.
"Removing cured polyurethane sealant is no joke... spent hours scraping that stuff off once."
Been there myself—felt like chiseling concrete at times. Curious though, have you ever tried hybrid sealants (modified polymer)? They're supposed to combine the strengths of silicone and polyurethane without the downsides... might be worth experimenting next time.
Totally agree about the prep work—learned that lesson the hard way myself after my first DIY window sealing fiasco. Took me forever to scrape off that nasty yellowed polyurethane... felt like punishment for skipping steps, haha. Haven't personally tried hybrid sealants yet, but I've heard good things from a friend who swears by them now. Might give it a shot next spring when I tackle the rest of my windows. Thanks for the suggestion!
Yeah, scraping off old polyurethane is a nightmare—I feel your pain. I tackled my windows last summer and switched to hybrid sealants halfway through. Honestly, they're worth the hype. Easier to apply, less messy, and they seem to hold up better against weather changes. Just make sure you get a quality caulking gun; the cheap ones jam up constantly (learned that the hard way...). Good luck next spring, you'll nail it for sure.
- Can confirm, hybrid sealants are a solid choice.
- Did mine two years back, still holding strong through some nasty winters.
- But yeah, learned the hard way too about cheap caulking guns—had one snap mid-project, total waste of time.
- Also, quick tip: don't skimp on prep work. Took extra time sanding and priming, and it's paying off big-time now.
- Good luck next round, sounds like you've got it figured out already.
"Also, quick tip: don't skimp on prep work. Took extra time sanding and priming, and it's paying off big-time now."
Couldn't agree more—proper prep is crucial for longevity. Curious though, has anyone here experimented with thermal imaging to pinpoint hidden moisture issues before sealing? Seems like it'd complement the process nicely...
Thermal imaging's definitely handy, especially if you're dealing with older homes. I've used it a couple times—caught moisture spots I would've totally missed otherwise. Bit pricey to rent, but worth it if you're serious about sealing things up properly.