Couldn’t agree more about the difference double-pane makes. I used to live right above a bus stop, and even after weatherstripping every inch of those old wood frames, it was like trying to sleep next to a highway. Ended up biting the bullet and replacing them with double-pane units—honestly, it was night and day. The weirdest thing was realizing how much of the vibration and low-frequency rumble was coming through the glass itself, not just the gaps.
One thing I’d add: if you’re already going through the hassle and expense, it’s worth looking into windows that use different glass thicknesses in the same unit. I read somewhere that having two panes of different thicknesses helps cut down on a wider range of sound frequencies. Might be overkill for some, but it made a difference in my place.
Totally agree on the install—if the crew skimps on the insulation around the frame, you’ll still get drafts and noise sneaking in. I had to have mine redone after the first go because they rushed it. Not fun, but lesson learned...
I’m right there with you on the install making or breaking it. I did a ton of research before committing to new windows (my house is a 1940s brick, so nothing’s ever square), and I was shocked at how much the crew’s attention to detail mattered. The first company I talked to acted like insulation was an afterthought—just slap in some spray foam and call it a day. Ended up going with a smaller local outfit who actually took the time to explain how they’d seal up every gap, and honestly, that made more difference than I expected.
About the glass thickness thing—yeah, that’s called “laminated” or “asymmetrical” glazing, right? I read a bunch of nerdy articles about it before pulling the trigger. It’s not just marketing hype, either. The science is that different thicknesses block different frequencies, so you don’t get that weird resonance where certain sounds still sneak through. I went with 3mm + 5mm panes and noticed the garbage trucks at 6am were way less of a wake-up call, but you still hear the odd siren or motorcycle. I guess nothing is truly “soundproof” unless you’re building a bunker.
One thing I underestimated: how much noise still comes through the walls themselves. My windows are way quieter now, but I can still hear some street noise through the brick and even a bit through the attic vent. Not sure there’s a perfect fix unless you start adding insulation everywhere, which gets expensive fast.
Anyway, for anyone on the fence, it’s not magic, but it’s a solid upgrade if city noise is driving you nuts. Just budget for a good install crew, and maybe don’t expect total silence—more like turning the volume down from “blaring” to “background hum.”
Not to play devil’s advocate, but I actually think the whole “install is everything” thing can get a little overhyped sometimes. Don’t get me wrong, a sloppy crew will absolutely mess up your results, but I’ve seen plenty of cases where even a textbook-perfect install didn’t make a huge dent in the noise because the window itself just wasn’t up to snuff. Some of the big-box window brands love to tout their “soundproof” features, but if the frame’s flimsy or the seals aren’t legit, it doesn’t matter how careful the installer is—sound’s still gonna find a way in.
Also, on the wall noise—yeah, that’s a killer. But you’d be surprised how much difference you can get just by adding some dense curtains or even bookshelves against exterior walls. Not a total fix, but cheaper than ripping out plaster and stuffing it full of insulation. I’ve done a few retrofits where the real game-changer was actually sealing up old vent holes or weird gaps nobody noticed, not the windows themselves.
At the end of the day, new windows help, but I wouldn’t pin all my hopes on ‘em if you’re expecting peace and quiet. Sometimes it’s just a bunch of little tweaks that add up.
- Agree that installation isn't the only factor—I've seen plenty of "soundproof" windows installed perfectly, but if the frames are lightweight or the gaskets are cheap, city noise still gets through. The product itself matters just as much as the crew.
- Noticed a lot of folks overlook the wall assembly. In some older homes, the walls are basically hollow, and even the best windows can't compete with that. Had a client last year with 1920s brick—windows were fine, but the noise came right through the walls and even the electrical outlets.
- Curtains and bookcases do help a bit, especially if they're dense and cover a good chunk of the wall. Not a miracle, but every layer counts. I usually tell people to look for heavy, lined curtains if they're not ready to do a full reno.
- Sealing gaps is huge. I did a job recently where the main issue was a gap under the baseboard—sound was just pouring in from the crawlspace. Foam and caulk made a bigger difference than the new window.
- For windows, if you're set on replacing, look for:
- Laminated glass (blocks more sound than standard double-pane)
- Solid, well-fitted frames (vinyl or composite tend to seal better than cheap aluminum)
- Compression seals instead of just basic weatherstripping
- If budget's tight, sometimes adding a second window (like an interior storm panel) is more effective than a full replacement.
- End of the day, it's a combination of fixes. Windows help, but they're just one piece of the puzzle. Sometimes it's the little stuff—sealing, curtains, even rearranging furniture—that adds up and makes life in the city a bit quieter.
- Had one client who swore by putting a big old rug up on the wall behind his bed... looked weird, but he slept better after. Sometimes you gotta get creative.
I remember working on a brownstone near a busy intersection—client was convinced new windows would be the magic bullet for the honking and sirens. We put in some high-end laminated glass, solid frames, the whole deal. Install was textbook, but after all that? Still plenty of noise creeping in. Turned out, the real culprit was the old plaster walls with gaps around the outlets and some pretty generous cracks behind the trim. Once we started sealing those up and adding some dense curtains, things finally quieted down.
Honestly, I’ve seen folks spend a fortune on windows and end up disappointed because the rest of the envelope leaks sound like a sieve. Not saying windows don’t help—they absolutely do if you go with quality—but it’s rarely just one fix. Sometimes it’s the little things, like sticking a bookcase against an outside wall or rolling out a thick rug, that make the biggest difference. Funny how creative you have to get when city life gets loud...
That tracks with what I’ve seen—windows help, but if you’ve got gaps around outlets or baseboards, the noise just finds another way in. I sealed up a few mystery drafts last winter and was surprised how much quieter it got. Sometimes it’s not about spending big, just plugging the obvious holes.
- I’ve been wondering about this exact thing—like, if I put in new, better windows, but the rest of the house has gaps, is it even worth it?
- I did some caulking around the outlets and it helped with drafts, but I can still hear the buses, especially early mornings. Not sure if that’s just city life or something I could actually fix.
- Is there a way to know where the main noise leaks are? I tried listening close to the walls, but it’s hard to tell.
- Kinda hesitant to drop a ton on new windows if the baseboards and outlets are the real problem... Has anyone tried those noise-reducing curtains or anything like that? Do they actually block sound or just muffle it a bit?
- Also, does sealing stuff up make the house too airtight? I keep hearing about needing some airflow for air quality. Just don’t want to trade one problem for another.
Funny timing, I actually geeked out with a decibel meter app to hunt down noise leaks in my place. Turns out, the windows were a big culprit, but I was shocked how much sound came through the electrical outlets and even the mail slot. Heavy curtains helped a bit—think “muffling” more than “blocking.” If you’re worried about sealing things up too tight, there’s stuff like trickle vents that let in fresh air without making your place drafty. City noise is stubborn, but it’s not invincible... just takes a bit of detective work (and maybe some trial and error).
I’ve seen a lot of folks jump straight to new windows thinking it’ll be a magic fix, but honestly, it’s not always the silver bullet for city noise. I mean, don’t get me wrong—if your windows are ancient and rattly, swapping them out for modern double or triple-pane can make a world of difference. But there’s this myth that new windows alone will turn your place into a soundproof bunker, and man, that’s just not how it plays out most of the time.
One time, I helped a guy who’d already spent a small fortune on fancy windows. He was still hearing every garbage truck and car horn like they were in his living room. Turns out, the walls and even the gaps around the window frames were letting in just as much noise. Those little cracks and outlets you mentioned? Totally underestimated. I usually tell people to think of it like a leaky bucket—doesn’t matter how nice the windows are if the rest is full of holes.
Heavy curtains help, but honestly, sometimes a tube of acoustic caulk and some patience go further than a pricey window upgrade. Not the answer everyone wants, but hey, city living is all about compromises, right?
I get where you’re coming from, but I gotta say, swapping my old single-pane windows for double-pane made a noticeable difference in my place. Not total silence, but it took the edge off the worst of the street noise. Maybe it depends on the building? My walls are solid brick, so maybe that helps too. Still, you’re right—if there’s gaps or cracks, noise finds a way in no matter what. But I wouldn’t write off new windows entirely.