That chalky mess on vinyl is the bane of my existence, too. I thought I was just bad at cleaning, but turns out it’s the salty air doing its thing. I also switched out a couple of the worst offenders for composite frames last fall. Honestly, I was skeptical at first—figured it was just throwing money at a problem—but they’ve held up way better than the old vinyl. Haven’t seen that weird powdery buildup since.
One thing I noticed, though, is that composites still get a bit grimy if you don’t rinse them off every so often. It’s not as stubborn as with vinyl, but it’s not like they’re maintenance-free. The energy efficiency was a surprise bonus for me, too—my heating bill actually dropped a little this winter. Not enough to pay for the windows anytime soon, but hey, every bit helps.
If you’re thinking of swapping more out, just watch the install costs. Mine ended up being pricier than I expected because of some weird window sizes in this old house. Still worth it for less scrubbing, though.
That chalk dust drove me nuts too. I kept blaming the kids for tracking in mess until I realized it was the windows. I swapped two of the worst ones to fiberglass last spring—mainly because my neighbor swore by them, and honestly, they’ve been a lot easier to keep clean. Still get a layer of grime if I let it go too long, but nothing like before.
I did notice the install was a pain. Turns out our window frames aren’t quite square (old house problems...), so what should’ve been a quick job dragged on for days and cost more than I budgeted. But I’m with you, less scrubbing is totally worth it.
One thing I will say, though, is the color on the composites faded a bit faster than I hoped. Not a huge deal, but something to think about if you’re picky about looks. Energy bill dropped a bit here too, but yeah, not enough to brag about. Just nice not having the salty buildup every time the wind picks up.
Turns out our window frames aren’t quite square (old house problems...), so what should’ve been a quick job dragged on for days and cost more than I budgeted.
That’s the thing with older houses—nothing’s ever standard. I run into out-of-square frames all the time, and it always adds time (and frustration). On the color fading, I’ve noticed some brands hold up better than others, especially if you go with the lighter shades. If you’re after something with less maintenance, aluminum-clad wood might be worth a look. Costs more up front, but they handle salt air well and don’t fade as fast. Fiberglass is solid for durability, though, just gotta stay on top of cleaning if you’re close to the ocean.
Funny you mention out-of-square frames—I once spent an entire afternoon wrestling a new window into a 1920s bungalow, only to realize the frame was almost an inch off at the bottom corner. Ended up having to custom shim everything. About aluminum-clad wood, I’ve seen those hold up well, but I did notice the finish can get pitted over time if you’re right on the coast. Anyone tried composite frames in salty air? I’m curious if they really last as long as the brochures claim...
About aluminum-clad wood, I’ve seen those hold up well, but I did notice the finish can get pitted over time if you’re right on the coast.
Yep, that pitting is a real pain. Salt air and aluminum just don’t mix long-term, no matter how nice the brochures make it look. I’ve replaced a bunch of those after 10–15 years—usually the wood’s still solid but the cladding looks like it got sandblasted.
Composite frames (like Fibrex or similar) are a different beast. They *do* resist corrosion better, since there’s no exposed metal, but you’ll still want to check the seals and caulking every few years. The trick is making sure there’s no spot for salty moisture to sneak in and hang out. If you’re close enough to hear the waves, I’d also recommend rinsing off exterior frames once in a while—sounds silly, but it helps.
One thing I noticed: composite frames are heavier than vinyl, which makes them a bit more forgiving in those “out-of-square” situations...but shimming is still an art form in old houses. Just watch for expansion/contraction—some composites move less than vinyl, but it’s not zero.
In short: composites last longer than aluminum-clad in salt air, but nothing’s totally maintenance-free near the ocean.
Interesting point about composite frames being heavier—I've seen that too, especially when wrangling windows into older, not-so-square openings. But here's what gets me: even with composites, I've noticed some brands still use metal fasteners or hardware that can rust out way before the frame itself shows wear. Kinda defeats the purpose if you're swapping corroded locks every few years, right? Has anyone actually found a window line where *all* the exposed bits stand up to salt air, or is it always a trade-off?
You’re right about the hardware being the weak link. I’ve installed a bunch of different brands along the coast, and even with top-tier composite or fiberglass frames, the standard locks and fasteners are usually just coated steel. That coating flakes off after a couple seasons of salt spray, then you’re back out there replacing stuff.
The only setups I’ve seen really hold up are ones that use all stainless steel or brass hardware—not just on the locks, but hinges and screws too. Marvin’s coastal line comes to mind, but you pay for it. Andersen has some options with marine-grade fasteners, but not across every product.
Honestly, it’s almost always a trade-off unless you’re willing to special order everything and check each component. Even then, installers sometimes swap in cheaper screws if they run short. I tell clients to budget for hardware upgrades if they want windows to last near the ocean... otherwise, plan on swapping parts every few years.
That’s spot on about installers sometimes swapping out hardware—I ran into that with my last window project and only caught it because I double-checked the screws before they sealed everything up. I’ve been eyeing Marvin’s coastal stuff but the price is wild. Has anyone tried just buying generic stainless hardware and swapping it in yourself, or is that more hassle than it’s worth? I’m always worried about warranty issues if you start mixing and matching parts...
That’s a legit worry—window warranties can be a real minefield. I’ve seen folks swap in their own stainless hardware thinking it’ll outlast the originals, only to get the cold shoulder from the manufacturer when something goes sideways later. Had a client who did just that with some “marine grade” screws from the big box store... couple years later, the finish started bubbling on the sashes, and the window folks blamed “unauthorized parts.” He wasn’t thrilled.
That said, I totally get the sticker shock on Marvin’s coastal line. It’s tough to swallow, but their hardware really does hold up better near salt air. If you’re handy and don’t mind rolling the dice on warranty, swapping hardware isn’t rocket science—you just gotta be careful matching sizes and not over-torquing anything. But if peace of mind matters, sticking with what the window company provides (even if it hurts the wallet) might save some headaches down the road.
Either way, double-checking what your installer’s actually putting in is always smart. Too many shortcuts out there...
- Totally agree on the warranty headaches—seen too many folks get burned by swapping hardware, even if it’s “marine grade.”
- Marvin’s coastal stuff is pricey, but honestly, their finish and hardware do last longer in salty air. Andersen’s A-Series is another solid option—fiberglass exterior holds up well, and their warranty is a bit more forgiving.
- If you’re set on saving cash, at least ask the installer for a hardware spec sheet. Sometimes they’ll sneak in cheaper fasteners unless you push back.
- One client went with a cheaper line and ended up replacing crumbling locks after just three years. Not fun.
- In my experience, sticking with what the manufacturer provides saves a lot of hassle if you’re near the ocean. Might sting now, but your future self will thank you.