Had to deal with this last fall—water just trickling in around the window frame whenever it poured. What finally worked for me was pulling off the old caulk (razor blade and patience), letting everything dry out for a day or two, then using that exterior-grade silicone caulk all around the seams. Pressed it in with a wet finger. Also checked the flashing above the window and replaced some cracked bits. Haven’t had a drop since, but I wonder if there’s something longer-lasting? Maybe some special tape or sealant I missed? Curious what others have tried.
- Ran into this with our back window during a crazy spring storm—water everywhere, total headache.
- Did the same: stripped old caulk, let it dry, used silicone. Lasted about a year before tiny leaks showed up again.
- Tried that butyl flashing tape last time (the sticky black stuff)—it’s messier but seems to hold up better so far.
- Noticed some folks swear by those liquid rubber coatings, but haven’t tried it yet. Silicone’s easy to redo if needed, though.
- For me, keeping gutters clear above the window actually made a bigger difference than I expected... less overflow hitting the frame.
Funny enough, I’ve seen more window leaks caused by clogged gutters than bad caulking—people always want to blame the sealant first. Had a client last fall who swore their window was junk, but it was just leaves blocking water right above it. Ever tried those gutter guards, or do you just stick with clearing them out by hand?
I actually just bought my house last year, and gutter maintenance was one of the first things I had to deal with. Didn’t realize how much junk could pile up in there until the first big rain—water was basically pouring over the edge right above a bedroom window. I thought for sure the window was leaking, but it was just the gutter overflowing.
I considered those gutter guards, but the reviews were kind of mixed, and some people said they still had to clean stuff out anyway. Ended up just grabbing a ladder and clearing them by hand. Not my favorite Saturday activity, but it worked and at least I know what’s going on up there. Might look into guards if it becomes a huge hassle, but for now, hand cleaning seems okay.
Funny how everyone blames the window first. Sometimes it’s just the simple stuff... If you don’t mind climbing up there a couple times a year, it’s probably the easiest fix.
Interesting you mention gutters—I've lost count of how many times a so-called “window leak” turned out to be water from overflowing gutters or even a poorly sloped sill. Sometimes it’s just the path of least resistance, and the water finds its way in wherever it can.
On the longer-lasting side, there are some butyl-based tapes (like FlexTape or Vycor) that people swear by for sealing around window frames—especially if you can get to the rough opening. Trouble is, once everything’s finished, you’re mostly limited to exterior caulking unless you want to start pulling trim. I’ve seen liquid flashing used on new installs, but not much for retrofits.
Silicone caulk is solid, but it can lose adhesion over time, especially if the surface wasn’t prepped right or there’s movement. Polyurethane sealants last longer in my experience, but they’re messier and harder to work with. Not sure there’s a true “set it and forget it” solution... seems like everything eventually needs a touch-up.
You nailed it with the “path of least resistance” thing—water is sneaky. I used to blame my old wood windows for leaks until I realized the gutters above them were packed with pine needles. Cleaned those out and suddenly, way less water inside. Still, I’m with you on there not being a magic fix. I’ve tried both silicone and polyurethane caulks over the years, and it always seems like I’m back up on the ladder every couple seasons anyway, especially on the weather side of the house.
I did try that Vycor tape when we replaced a window (had to pull off some siding to do it right), and it seems to hold up better than anything else so far. But yeah, once everything’s buttoned up, you’re mostly stuck with caulk and hoping for the best. Guess it’s just part of owning an older place—always chasing one draft or drip or another... but hey, at least it keeps things interesting.
Totally hear you on the “no magic fix” thing. I’ve found that even after doing the whole window tape routine (Vycor, Zip, you name it), the caulk still needs attention every couple years—especially on the side that gets hammered by wind-driven rain. I actually tried liquid flashing on one window as an experiment... not a miracle, but it’s held up better than regular caulk so far. Still, between clogged gutters, old trim, and shifting sills, it feels like you’re just buying time. Keeps you humble, I guess.
Yeah, that’s the thing—there’s always something else to chase down. I’ve done the tape, caulk, and even tried that “super” expanding foam once… which just made a mess and didn’t help much. I agree, liquid flashing seems to last a bit longer, but nothing’s really set-and-forget. Wind-driven rain is brutal on my west side too. At this point, I just accept it’s part of the annual maintenance dance. Keeps you honest, for sure.
At this point, I just accept it’s part of the annual maintenance dance. Keeps you honest, for sure.
I get where you’re coming from, but I’ll push back a little—there are some steps that can help cut down that yearly hassle. Have you ever tried pulling off the interior trim and checking for gaps around the rough opening? I found a couple spots the foam missed when I did mine. Re-insulating those and adding a backer rod before caulking made a big difference. It’s not a forever fix, but it slowed the leaks way down on my windy side. Sometimes it’s less about the products and more about layering things in the right order.
That’s a solid approach—I’ve found the same thing with older windows in our place. Air sealing only works if you really get into those nooks behind the trim. One thing I’d add: flashing tape on the exterior can help, too, if you’re able to get to it. It’s not always pretty but definitely keeps things drier, especially when paired with a decent caulk job. The little steps seem to add up over time.