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How I finally stopped that gross black stuff from creeping up my window sills

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gadgeteer49
Posts: 9
(@gadgeteer49)
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Definitely agree with the “sometimes new is just worth it” approach. I tried stripping and repainting old sills, but even with a HEPA vac and gloves, the mess and lingering musty smell weren’t worth it.

A few extra things that helped me:
- Used a moisture meter to check for hidden damp spots before replacing trim. Found a couple sneaky leaks that way.
- Swapped to insulated cellular shades—keeps the glass warmer, so less condensation forms in the first place.
-

“On sealing things up, you’re probably right that an old house isn’t going to be too airtight—drafts find a way no matter what.”
True, but foam backer rod plus caulk in bigger gaps made a noticeable dent in drafts for me.

Plants off the sill is underrated advice. My partner hated it, but hey, fewer mold battles.


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Posts: 10
(@magician682078)
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I get where you’re coming from with “sometimes new is just worth it,” but I’d push back a little—old wood sills can often be salvaged if the structure’s solid. The mess is real, no question, but using a chemical stripper (instead of sanding) plus a negative air setup cut down on dust and smell for me. It’s more work upfront, but I wanted to keep the original trim since my place is 1920s and the profiles are hard to match.

On the insulation front, cellular shades are good, but I found exterior storm windows made a bigger difference for condensation. Not the cheapest fix, but they really changed the whole comfort level in winter.

As for sealing, I agree about foam backer rod for big gaps, but I’m always cautious about over-sealing an old house. Too much caulk can trap moisture where you don’t want it—especially if you have any hidden leaks. Sometimes a little airflow is the lesser evil.

Plants on the sill... yeah, it’s a battle here too. My partner loves them, but I’m tired of wiping up mildew rings. Maybe one day we’ll compromise with hanging planters instead.


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Posts: 7
(@jack_davis)
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Too much caulk can trap moisture where you don’t want it—especially if you have any hidden leaks.

That’s been my experience too. I tried sealing every crack in my 1915 windows and ended up with more condensation, not less. Airflow really matters in these old places. For mildew, I switched to terracotta saucers under the plants—still get a few rings, but at least it’s not black mold anymore.


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volunteer14
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- Sealing every gap definitely isn’t always the fix—old windows need to breathe a bit.
- I’ve seen cases where over-caulking just pushed moisture somewhere else, usually into the framing.
- Curious: did you notice if the condensation was worse on cold mornings, or was it constant?
- Anyone tried those moisture absorber packs on sills? Wondering if that’s a decent stopgap while figuring out airflow.


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Posts: 8
(@marke19)
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Sealing up every crack isn’t always the magic fix, totally agree there. Windows—especially older wood ones—do need a bit of airflow or you’re just trapping moisture where you can’t see it. I’ve seen people go nuts with caulk and then end up with rotten sills or even mold inside the wall, which is a whole different headache.

About those moisture absorber packs… they’re not a long-term solution, but I’ve actually tossed a few on my own sills during a particularly damp winter. They pulled some water out of the air, sure, but you have to remember to swap them out pretty often or they just sit there soggy and useless. If you’re getting serious condensation, though, that’s usually pointing to bigger issues—like poor ventilation or maybe even insulation gaps around the window frame.

Condensation being worse on cold mornings is pretty common. Warm indoor air hits that cold glass and boom, water everywhere. If it’s constant, even when it’s not super cold outside, I’d start looking for hidden leaks or maybe humidity problems in the house itself (bathroom fans not venting right, basement dampness, etc.).

What worked best for me was a combo: eased up on over-caulking so the window could “breathe,” checked that my storm windows were actually vented right (a lot of folks miss this), and ran a small fan in the room on humid days. Not glamorous, but it cut down on the black gunk creeping up my sills. Sometimes simple fixes work better than dumping money into fancy products.

If you’re renting or can’t do much permanent work, those absorber packs are fine as a stopgap. But if you own the place and want to solve it for good, it’s worth taking a step back and figuring out exactly where the moisture’s coming from before sealing anything up tight. Too many folks just slap on more caulk and hope for the best… usually ends up making things worse in the long run.


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carolcrafter
Posts: 16
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I get where you’re coming from about not over-sealing, but I’ve gotta say, I think a lot of folks actually don’t seal enough, especially in drafty old houses. I had the opposite problem—tons of cold air sneaking in around my windows, which made the condensation worse because the glass stayed super cold. When I finally bit the bullet and did a thorough caulk job (careful to leave the weep holes open at the bottom), it actually helped cut down on both drafts and moisture. Maybe it’s just my house, but sometimes a little more caulk in the right spots really does make a difference.

Also, those absorber packs… I tried them for a while but honestly, they just felt like a band-aid. They’d fill up so fast in my place that I was replacing them every week. Ended up getting a small dehumidifier instead—more upfront cost, but way less hassle long-term. Sometimes you just have to experiment and see what your particular house responds to. Every old window seems to have its own personality, if that makes sense.


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yogi35
Posts: 16
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Every old window seems to have its own personality, if that makes sense.

Totally get this—my 1920s place has windows with more quirks than my uncle at Thanksgiving. I hear you on the absorber packs too... felt like I was just feeding the things. Dehumidifier was a game changer for me, even though it’s one more thing humming in the background. I do think sealing is a balancing act. Too much and you end up with a stuffy box, too little and you’re basically camping indoors.


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pets_lisa
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I get the appeal of a dehumidifier—believe me, I’ve tried just about every trick in the book to keep that black crud from creeping up the sills—but I’m not totally sold on running another appliance 24/7. In my case (house built in ’41, plaster walls, drafty as a barn), I actually had better luck focusing on airflow. Cracking the upper sash just a smidge and running an old-school box fan made more difference than any gadget I bought. Maybe it’s regional? Our winters are dry as toast, so over-sealing actually trapped moisture from showers and cooking.

Not saying dehumidifiers are bad—they’re lifesavers for some setups—but sometimes the simple stuff is worth a shot before plugging in another energy hog. Plus, those absorber packs... yeah, they’re like feeding gremlins after midnight.


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holly_scott2141
Posts: 14
(@holly_scott2141)
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I hear you on the energy hog thing. I tried a dehumidifier for one summer and my electric bill shot up—plus, emptying the reservoir got old fast. Ended up just leaving the bathroom window cracked and running a cheap fan after showers, like you said. Weirdly, that did more to keep the sills dry than all those fancy moisture absorbers. Maybe it’s just my old windows, but I swear sometimes low-tech works best. Those absorber packs never seem to last long anyway...


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Posts: 17
(@nancyroberts862)
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I get where you’re coming from on the low-tech fixes, but sometimes leaving the window cracked can backfire—especially in older places. I’ve seen a lot of sills and frames rot out faster because folks were letting in just enough outside humidity or rain to cause more trouble than it solved. It’s a tradeoff, really. The fan trick works if your climate’s not super humid, but in muggy areas or with single-pane windows, moisture just finds a way back in.

Funny thing, I swapped out a few old bathroom windows for clients with newer vinyl ones and added proper venting. Most of them barely needed to crack a window after that. The upfront cost stings, but you save on electricity and hassle long term. Those absorber packs are basically a band-aid, in my opinion—never found one that lasted more than a couple weeks before turning into a soggy mess.

Guess it depends on your house and climate. Sometimes old-school works, sometimes you gotta bite the bullet and upgrade...


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