"Did your installers use spray foam or caulk around the edges?"
Mine used spray foam, seemed pretty thorough. But now you've got me thinking...is there a noticeable performance difference between foam and caulk long-term? Curious if anyone's looked into this.
Mine used spray foam too, and at first glance it seemed pretty solid. But after reading your post, I did a bit of digging around online (typical first-time homeowner paranoia kicking in, haha). From what I've gathered, spray foam tends to offer better insulation and fills gaps more effectively, especially if the openings are uneven or larger. Caulk, on the other hand, might be easier to apply neatly and can look cleaner, but it doesn't expand as much, so it might not seal as thoroughly.
Long-term, foam apparently holds up pretty well as long as it's protected from direct sunlight and moisture. Caulk can shrink or crack over time, especially if it's lower-quality stuff or exposed to temperature swings. I guess the key is making sure the installers used a quality product and applied it properly.
"Mine used spray foam, seemed pretty thorough."
Sounds like you're probably good to go...but now I'm definitely gonna double-check mine this weekend just to ease my mind!
Sounds like you've done your homework—good stuff. Spray foam is usually the way to go, especially if the gaps around the windows were uneven or larger than usual. I've installed plenty of windows over the years, and foam consistently outperforms caulk in terms of insulation and durability, provided it's applied correctly.
If you're feeling a bit paranoid (totally normal, btw), here's a quick way to double-check your install this weekend:
1. Visually inspect around the window frame—foam should fill the gap completely without large voids.
2. Gently press on the foam with your finger—it should feel firm but slightly flexible, not brittle or crumbly.
3. Check the exterior side too—make sure there's proper flashing or trim protecting the foam from sunlight and moisture.
Honestly, though, from what you've described, you're probably fine. Andersen installers generally know their stuff. Good luck with the new windows...and welcome to the joys of homeownership, haha.
"Gently press on the foam with your finger—it should feel firm but slightly flexible, not brittle or crumbly."
Good advice here. I'd just add one more quick tip from experience: if you're checking the foam, also take a peek at the corners specifically. Sometimes installers rush a bit there, and you might find small gaps or thin spots. If you do spot something minor, it's usually an easy fix—just grab a can of low-expansion foam from your local hardware store and carefully fill it in yourself. No big deal.
Honestly though, Renewal by Andersen crews are pretty solid. Had them install windows at my brother's place last year, and everything was spot-on. He was paranoid too (must run in the family, haha), but after a quick check, he was good to go. Sounds like you're already ahead of the game, so enjoy the new windows and the quieter, warmer house that comes with them...
Good call on checking the corners—I've found the same thing. One other spot worth a quick look is along the bottom edge. Had a window once where foam was thin there, easy fix but glad I caught it early...
Good tip on the bottom edge—I noticed something similar on mine. Quick check with a flashlight showed thinner foam spots. Easy fix, but glad you mentioned it... would've missed it otherwise. Thanks for sharing!
Had a similar experience when we moved into our first place last year. We didn't go with Andersen, but the installers we had also left some thin foam spots around the edges. At first, I was skeptical—thought maybe it was just cosmetic or something minor—but then winter hit, and man, you could feel those cold drafts sneaking in. I remember sitting on the couch one evening and feeling this weird chill on my neck... took me forever to figure out it was coming from the window behind me.
Anyway, your flashlight trick is pretty clever. Wish I'd thought of that earlier instead of waiting until December to realize something wasn't right. Glad you caught it early enough to fix easily. It's funny how these little things seem insignificant at first but end up making a noticeable difference down the road.
Thanks for sharing your experience—makes me feel a bit better knowing I'm not the only one who ran into this kind of issue. Guess it's just part of the homeowner learning curve, huh?
Had a similar issue on a job last fall—customer called me back after the first cold snap saying they felt drafts around their new windows. Turns out the installers skimped on foam insulation in a few spots. If anyone else runs into this, here's what I usually recommend:
1. Wait for a breezy day and run your hand slowly around the window edges to pinpoint drafts.
2. Mark any problem areas with painter's tape.
3. Carefully remove interior trim (if you're comfortable doing it yourself) to expose gaps.
4. Fill gaps with low-expansion foam insulation—don't overdo it, or you'll warp the frame.
5. Let foam cure fully, trim excess, then reinstall the trim.
It's a pretty straightforward fix, but yeah, definitely annoying when you just paid good money for new windows. Good catch with the flashlight trick, by the way—might borrow that one next time I'm troubleshooting.
Good tips overall, but I'd be cautious about recommending everyone remove their interior trim themselves. I've been a homeowner for quite a while and tackled plenty of DIY projects, and removing trim can sometimes lead to unintended headaches—especially if it's older woodwork or painted multiple times. You might end up cracking or damaging the trim, or even the drywall behind it, which can turn a simple insulation fix into a bigger repair job.
Instead, I'd suggest trying a less invasive approach first. You could use clear silicone caulk around the edges of the trim to seal minor drafts without removing anything. It's not as thorough as foam insulation, but it often does the trick for smaller gaps and is much less risky. If that doesn't solve it, then yeah, carefully removing the trim might be your next step.
Just my two cents from past experience...sometimes the simpler fix saves you from extra hassle down the road.
Totally agree, silicone caulk is usually the way to go first. Another thing I've found helpful is using painter's tape along the trim edges before caulking—it keeps things neat and saves cleanup time later. Learned that one the hard way...