They’re not bad for what they are, but you’ve gotta be realistic. They do seal better than the old aluminum storms, and you don’t have to mess with exterior ladders or painting.
Couldn’t agree more on the sealing—magnetic storms are a big step up from the rattly old metal ones. I put them in our 1920s bungalow mainly to keep the original wavy glass, and honestly, the difference in drafts was noticeable right away. But yeah, if your frames aren’t square (mine definitely aren’t), it takes some patience to get a decent fit. I ended up using thin weatherstripping in a couple corners just to close up tiny gaps.
The condensation thing is real too. We had an issue last winter where moisture built up behind one panel—it turned out there was a gap under the stool letting cold air sneak in. Once I caulked that, it helped a lot, but it’s definitely something to watch for.
As for pets, our cat figured out how to nudge one loose from the bottom sash... had to add a couple extra magnets. Not perfect, but better than replacing all the windows. All in all, I’d say they’re worth it if you want to keep your house’s character and don’t mind a little DIY troubleshooting along the way.
I get the appeal of magnetic storms, but I’m still on the fence. We tried them in our old foursquare and, yeah, they’re better than the clunky aluminum ones, but I never quite got rid of those little drafts around the edges—no matter how much weatherstripping I added. Plus, the condensation was worse for us, especially on north-facing windows. Maybe it’s just our weird humidity here, but I found myself wiping down sills more than before. Honestly, sometimes I wonder if just biting the bullet and getting custom wood storms would’ve been less hassle in the long run... even if it means dragging out the ladder every spring.
That draftiness rings a bell—
We had the same issue with magnetic storms in our 1920s bungalow, especially during windy spells. Here’s what I ended up doing: I taped a thin bead of clear caulk under the magnetic strip, let it dry, and then attached the panel. It helped a bit, but honestly, nothing totally fixed those edge leaks.“I never quite got rid of those little drafts around the edges—no matter how much weatherstripping I added.”
Condensation’s a beast here too (Midwest humidity), and wood storms do seem to handle it better. The ladder’s a pain, but at least my sills aren’t soaked all winter. Sometimes old-school just works... even if it takes more elbow grease.
- Definitely hear you on the wood storms—nothing’s ever quite as tight as you want, but they do handle moisture way better.
- I’ve tried both magnetic and compression-style storms; neither one truly seals the edges in heavy wind. Magnetic panels look clean, but the drafts sneak in anyway.
- For condensation, I started cracking the upper sash just a tiny bit some nights. Not perfect, but it helps balance humidity without soaking the sills.
- Honestly, I keep coming back to old wood storms too, even though the annual ladder routine is a pain. They just seem to last longer and fit the house vibe.
- One thing that helped here: I ran a bead of rope caulk along the inside edges for winter. It’s not pretty, but it peels off easy in spring and cuts most of the draft. Maybe not ideal, but sometimes practical beats pretty...
Has anyone here tried those newer “historic replica” windows? I keep seeing them pop up in old house groups. They’re supposed to look almost exactly like the originals, but with double panes and better seals. I get the love for old wood storms (our 1920s place still has a few), but after wrestling one down last fall and nearly losing it to a gust, I started wondering if there’s a less stressful option.
I know rope caulk helps, but I’m kind of over patching things each winter. The price tag on new windows is a bit wild, but factoring in time and ladder drama... maybe it balances out? Or am I missing something? Do the new ones really fake the old look well enough that you don’t lose all the charm? I’d hate to go full replacement and end up with something that just looks off, you know?
Curious if anyone’s actually lived with these “look old but act new” windows for a few seasons—do they hold up, or is it just clever marketing?
I get the appeal of ditching the old storms, trust me—ours are a pain every fall. But honestly, I’m not totally sold on those replica windows for every situation. We looked at a few brands last year and even the “best” ones felt just a bit off up close... the muntin bars were too chunky or the finish was kinda plasticky, especially in certain light. If you’re really picky about details, it might bug you.
What worked for us: we had a local carpenter rebuild a couple sashes to fit double glazing, then kept our original frames. Not cheap either, but it kept that wavy glass look and all the trim matched. It took longer (and more back-and-forth), but I’d do it again before going full replacement. If you’re handy or know someone who is, might be worth looking into before dropping big bucks on new units that might not quite nail the vibe.
What worked for us: we had a local carpenter rebuild a couple sashes to fit double glazing, then kept our original frames. Not cheap either, but it kept that wavy glass look and all the trim matched.
I get what you’re saying about the “plasticky” look—some replicas are just not convincing, especially when the sun hits them weird. But I’ll throw this out there: we went with Marvin’s wood-clad inserts last year, and honestly, up close they fooled even my dad (who’s picky about this stuff). Here’s what worked for us step-by-step:
1. Matched the exterior color to our original trim.
2. Chose simulated divided lites with spacer bars, not just surface grids.
3. Requested a custom muntin width (narrower than standard).
It wasn’t cheap, but less hassle than full sash rebuilds. Maybe worth a look if you want a middle ground between full custom and off-the-shelf.
We went back and forth on this for months—full rebuild vs. inserts—so I get the struggle. I’ll echo the point about muntin width: most big-box options just look off because the grids are too chunky or too flat. We ended up going with custom wood inserts from a regional maker (not Marvin, but similar idea), and matching the old paint color was key. Only thing I’d add is, if you care about the glass itself, ask if they can source restoration glass or at least something with a bit of distortion. It’s subtle, but it makes a difference when the light hits. Not cheap, but it’s one of those things you notice every day.
Only thing I’d add is, if you care about the glass itself, ask if they can source restoration glass or at least something with a bit of distortion. It’s subtle, but it makes a difference when the light hits.
That’s a great point about the glass. I went with double-glazed units that had a very slight “wavy” effect—wasn’t true restoration glass, but close enough visually and still got the energy efficiency bump I wanted. If you’re worried about heat loss or drafts, make sure whoever’s doing the inserts can handle proper air sealing around the frames. I was surprised how much of a difference that made in my heating bills, even with wood frames. Matching old paint is one thing, but matching old insulation... that’s where it gets tricky.
Funny you mention air sealing—when we redid the front windows on our 1920s place, the installer spent almost as much time fussing over the gaps as the glass itself. Turns out, even a tiny draft around the frame can undo all that fancy glazing. I do miss the old wavy glass a bit, though. Did anyone try those stick-on films that mimic distortion, or is that just a gimmick?