People get hung up on R-values for glass, but I’ve found a $10 tube of caulk around an old sill sometimes makes more difference than a whole window swap.
Couldn’t agree more. I went all-in on “efficient” windows a few years back—fancy coatings, argon, the works. Still got cold drafts until I finally pulled the trim and found gaps big enough to lose a pencil in. A little foam and caulk made way more difference than the windows themselves. Big glass is beautiful, but if the install’s sloppy or the wall is leaky, you’re just heating the outdoors... and paying for the privilege.
That’s a classic problem—people spend a fortune on high-end windows, but if the rough opening isn’t sealed right, you’re still losing heat. I’ve seen brand new triple-pane units with more air leakage than 40-year-old single panes just because the install was rushed. Curious if anyone’s tried blower door testing before and after window projects? It really shows where the leaks are hiding.
Blower door test is wild—feels like you’re in a wind tunnel, but it really shows where your money’s leaking out. I did one after swapping out my old drafty windows for “fancy” ones, and turns out the installer missed a spot around the frame. Ended up stuffing more insulation in myself. Honestly, sometimes I think my 1970s windows with a towel jammed in the corner were just as good... at least I knew where the draft was coming from.
I’ve seen that a lot—folks spend big on new windows, but if the installer rushes or skips sealing, all that fancy glass can’t help much. I remember working on a 60s ranch where the owners had gorgeous new casements, but cold air was pouring in around the trim. Ended up pulling off the interior casing and finding whole gaps—no insulation at all. Sometimes the “old towel trick” at least tells you where to look, but with new stuff, you expect better. If you’re still feeling drafts, it might be worth popping off a bit of trim and checking for missing foam or caulk. It’s wild how often that’s the problem, not the window itself.
That’s spot on—people think new windows are a magic fix, but if the install’s sloppy, you’re just tossing cash out the (literal) window. I’ve pulled off trim on “brand new” jobs and found daylight shining through gaps. One time, the spray foam was only in the top corners, like they ran out and just called it good. It’s wild.
I always tell folks: even the best triple-pane glass can’t save you from a bad seal. And it’s not just the cold either—if you skip the foam or caulk, you can get condensation in the wall cavity, which is a whole other headache. Mold, rot, you name it.
Funny thing is, people get annoyed at the price of a thorough install, but it’s that extra hour or two of detail work that makes the difference. I’ve had clients swear their house was “leaky” until we just re-foamed around the windows and suddenly their heating bill dropped. Sometimes it’s not even the window—old framing can be out of square, and you need to shim or adjust to get a tight fit. Otherwise, you’re just masking the problem.
And yeah, the “towel trick” is old school, but it works. I still do it in my own place when I’m not sure where the draft’s coming from. Sometimes you find it’s not the window at all, but the sill or even the outlet boxes nearby.
In the end, big windows can be worth it for the light and the view, but only if you’re sure they’re sealed up right. Otherwise, you’re just paying for a nice view of your own money flying out into the yard...
even the best triple-pane glass can’t save you from a bad seal
Couldn’t agree more with that. We put in huge windows in our living room last year and honestly, I was worried about the heating bill. But the installer took his time—checked every corner, even found a weird draft near the sill I’d never noticed. The cost stung a bit, but we barely felt any difference in our bills, and the light is such a mood boost. It’s wild how much those little details matter.
It’s amazing how much of a difference a careful install makes. I’ve seen plenty of high-end windows underperform just because someone rushed the sealing or skipped a step. You definitely get what you pay for, especially with attention to detail like that. Sometimes those “hidden” drafts are the real culprits—not the glass itself. Glad it worked out for you, and yeah, natural light can be worth every penny.
Sometimes those “hidden” drafts are the real culprits—not the glass itself.
Totally agree—those sneaky drafts are like ninjas for your heating bill. Did you notice a change in your comfort level after sealing everything up? I always wonder, is it better to go triple-pane or just focus on airtightness?
I get the airtightness argument, but honestly, glass type can’t be ignored. I did a blower door test after upgrading to triple-pane, and even with decent sealing, the difference in radiant cold near the windows was huge. Airtight is key, but high-performance glass matters too—especially in colder climates. Sometimes it’s not either/or... it’s both.
Airtight is key, but high-performance glass matters too—especially in colder climates. Sometimes it’s not either/or... it’s both.
That lines up with what I’ve seen on jobs lately. I usually tell folks to focus on air sealing first, but like you said, glass type really comes into play once drafts are under control. Curious, after you upgraded to triple-pane, did you notice any condensation issues inside? Sometimes with better glass and tighter envelopes, moisture pops up in new spots. Wondering if you had to tweak your ventilation or humidifier settings after the swap.